Roof Structure and Doors

[81dmc]

Yesterday, I removed both doors from my car (both are original and damaged) and took a look at my roof structure. Thankfully, I found no damage. However, should I bolt down my roof for insurance while everything's out? Also, is there a fool proof way to paint the inside of the roof box? Thanks.

[David T]

Yesterday, I removed both doors from my car (both are original and damaged) and took a look at my roof structure. Thankfully, I found no damage. However, should I bolt down my roof for insurance while everything's out? Also, is there a fool proof way to paint the inside of the roof box? Thanks.

The doors do not have to be removed to work on the roof. It is very difficult to align the doors so they should only be removed if a door is damaged and needs to be replaced. To paint inside the box you dunk a rag in a pail of paint and wipe it around inside the box after you remove as much loose rust as you can. As long as you have taken things apart you may as well reenforce the roof with bolts.

[81dmc]

The doors do not have to be removed to work on the roof. It is very difficult to align the doors so they should only be removed if a door is damaged and needs to be replaced. To paint inside the box you dunk a rag in a pail of paint and wipe it around inside the box after you remove as much loose rust as you can. As long as you have taken things apart you may as well reenforce the roof with bolts.

Thanks for your input. I will definately try that method of using a rag soaked in paint (POR15). Also, I do realize the doors are a pain to align, but both doors were damaged. I will most likely install and align them to the fiberglass in a few days after I order them from DMCH. Finally, what damage should I look for on the torsion bars before reinstallation?

[Rich]

...what damage should I look for on the torsion bars before reinstallation?

There are at least two things you can inspect.

1. Nicks or gouges along the shafts of the bars. Typically seen where the bar might have interfered with the door's rear hinge.
2. Deformed hex socket from incorrect torquing tool.

There isn't much you can do about either one. But at least you'll know what you have.
After the doors are back on be sure neither bar is touching a hinge. Otherwise shim with thick vinyl or rubber/urethane stock to prevent bar wear and check the shim regularly.

[David T]

There are at least two things you can inspect.

1. Nicks or gouges along the shafts of the bars. Typically seen where the bar might have interfered with the door's rear hinge.
2. Deformed hex socket from incorrect torquing tool.

There isn't much you can do about either one. But at least you'll know what you have.
After the doors are back on be sure neither bar is touching a hinge. Otherwise shim with thick vinyl or rubber/urethane stock to prevent bar wear and check the shim regularly.

Inspect the inside of the hex end for any cracks through to the splines. Make sure each anchor bracket slides easily onto the splined end. File the splines if necessary. Make sure the 2 tapped bolt holes securing the anchor brackets are not stripped or cross-threaded. DO NOT scratch or ding the torsion bars. It creates a stress riser and the bar will crack. If the torsion bars were OK and you didn't damage them taking things apart they should be fine. Do not mix up the front hinges, it prevents you from putting the wrong bar on the wrong side. One bar has a square end and one has a hex. They CANNOT be reversed or they will break. Stick a 1" X 3" piece of inner tube between the torsion bar and the rear hinge on each side. Have fun lining up the doors to the body. One of the worst jobs on a Delorean.

[DMCMW Dave]

... Also, I do realize the doors are a pain to align, ....... I will most likely install and align them to the fiberglass in a few days after I order them from DMCH. ?

They are an even bigger pain to ship. Did you check with DMCFL to see if they have any in stock? When you find out what it costs to crate and ship two doors it may be worth the drive.

[David T]

They are an even bigger pain to ship. Did you check with DMCFL to see if they have any in stock? When you find out what it costs to crate and ship two doors it may be worth the drive.

Or it may be worth it to repair your doors. When you calculate the cost of the doors, the shipping, and installation you may find it pays to fix your old doors. As for shipping it may work out to just ship the whole car doors and all!

[81dmc]

They are an even bigger pain to ship. Did you check with DMCFL to see if they have any in stock? When you find out what it costs to crate and ship two doors it may be worth the drive.

I just contacted DMCFL, and they have none in stock. Right now, I am just about to leave the passenger door original as it only is sagged. However, I do need the driver's, as the entire door is deformed. In fact, it is so deformed, that it broke the fiberglass weather seal lip when closed hard a few months back. As of now, I believe I should just eat the shipping costs for one door and not look back.

[81dmc]

...Do not mix up the front hinges, it prevents you from putting the wrong bar on the wrong side...

This will be no problem since I am not removing both hinges. However, is there a way to fix play in the front drivers hinge? After 30+ years, the pin in the hinge has deteriorated quite a bit, and from my understanding, these hinges are no longer available.

[refugeefromcalif]

They are an even bigger pain to ship. Did you check with DMCFL to see if they have any in stock? When you find out what it costs to crate and ship two doors it may be worth the drive.

I can atest to crate and shipping charges for larger items.
I bought a hood from Tony at DMCFL. It cost me over $800 for the crate/packing and shipping from his local UPS store. (They did a Great job though).
I could have drove there and back, (1,400 miles), in my van cheaper...

George

[David T]

This will be no problem since I am not removing both hinges. However, is there a way to fix play in the front drivers hinge? After 30+ years, the pin in the hinge has deteriorated quite a bit, and from my understanding, these hinges are no longer available.

Any good machinist should be able to make a new pin and bushing for the hinge. It will require the hinge to be removed so you can take it to a shop. Before removing you should drill a 1/8 hole in it and through the body so you can put it back in the same exact spot.

[dn010]

You might contact eagle-co29 (James) about a door, he may have one or both and is in Florida as well -you could pick it up yourself.

As for door adjustments, I had to do that on my car and it took a really long time to get it right, hours! The adjustment was bad when I got the car, I'd guess a PO at some point messed around with the adjustment for who knows what reason. When I needed to remove my other door, I spray painted the door and hinge so I knew exactly where it was. When I was ready I put the door back on, bolted it back down and used the trusty scotch-brite to get the paint off. There are all kinds of helpful things to do to make sure you don't lose how it was prior to remove but if you're changing doors anyway I guess it doesn't really matter.

[81dmc]

I removed my LF hinge, and broke the one bolt going into the body.:swear1:

After a few curses later, I removed the plate with the stud, but I have no idea what part # it is. I also noticed the middle piece of the 3-piece box has deteriorated and separated from the fiberglass. While I have things apart, I'd rather get everything done correctly rather than half-assed. Any tips?

[DMCMW Dave]

I removed my LF hinge, and broke the one bolt going into the body.:swear1:

After a few curses later, I removed the plate with the stud, but I have no idea what part # it is.?

Not available as a part, the factory apparently considered it a part of the underbody. You'll have to fabricate something but it shouldn't be difficult.

[81dmc]

Today, I received my new roof box from Ed. I am stuck on what I should use to bond it to the fiberglass. What type of epoxy do all of you recommend?

[bigmac]

We are tackling this job this weekend.I have purchased an epoxy called Epiglass from a marine supply company. I doubt if this is available in the US. Also got a sealer called MS to ensure no leaks. Will be a looonng weekend.

[81dmc]

We are tackling this job this weekend.I have purchased an epoxy called Epiglass from a marine supply company. I doubt if this is available in the US. Also got a sealer called MS to ensure no leaks. Will be a looonng weekend.

After removing the old roof box, the fiberglass was slightly damaged. I applied a coat of epoxy in the areas of bare fiberglass and let it sit overnight. The next day, I sanded and wiped down the epoxy and bonded the new roof structure with 3m 5200. After a day, I used 4 stainless bolts and fender washers to bolt the rear of the roof structure down. Also, remember to clamp down the new box especially in the area where the door hinges sit.

[Brian_SS_TT]

Good luck! Post some pictures if you can.

Thanks

[81dmc]

To my knowledge, I have been the only one to use 3m marine 5200, and I definitely recommend it.

Before any prep was completed:
http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/rodolfovii/Mobile%20Uploads/A7DA418E-914B-4A4E-BA99-F2419EC4DAC4_zpsy6fvjdsh.jpg (http://s376.photobucket.com/user/rodolfovii/media/Mobile%20Uploads/A7DA418E-914B-4A4E-BA99-F2419EC4DAC4_zpsy6fvjdsh.jpg.html)

After some sanding:
http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/rodolfovii/Mobile%20Uploads/09DAFD7F-D0FF-41A5-8315-F747175B2C37_zpshwra7unf.jpg (http://s376.photobucket.com/user/rodolfovii/media/Mobile%20Uploads/09DAFD7F-D0FF-41A5-8315-F747175B2C37_zpshwra7unf.jpg.html)

After epoxy was applied and sanded:
http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/rodolfovii/Mobile%20Uploads/697D6044-F0D3-4A4B-BA79-2492D097E30A_zpscxer3zu8.jpg (http://s376.photobucket.com/user/rodolfovii/media/Mobile%20Uploads/697D6044-F0D3-4A4B-BA79-2492D097E30A_zpscxer3zu8.jpg.html)
http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/rodolfovii/Mobile%20Uploads/CD7356E8-1A40-4E6E-A9E1-FF22D77D5AAE_zps8bcckycb.jpg (http://s376.photobucket.com/user/rodolfovii/media/Mobile%20Uploads/CD7356E8-1A40-4E6E-A9E1-FF22D77D5AAE_zps8bcckycb.jpg.html)

After stainless box was sanded for better adhesion:
http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/rodolfovii/Mobile%20Uploads/FE7A357B-302F-47AB-A348-0D2FBE2600F0_zpsfmqtvg3i.jpg (http://s376.photobucket.com/user/rodolfovii/media/Mobile%20Uploads/FE7A357B-302F-47AB-A348-0D2FBE2600F0_zpsfmqtvg3i.jpg.html)

The 5200:
http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/rodolfovii/Mobile%20Uploads/477A40C1-3694-4963-8EDA-A7185A359AF0_zpsu7q75toj.jpg (http://s376.photobucket.com/user/rodolfovii/media/Mobile%20Uploads/477A40C1-3694-4963-8EDA-A7185A359AF0_zpsu7q75toj.jpg.html)

After MUCH 5200 was applied then clamped:
http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/rodolfovii/Mobile%20Uploads/F7424801-4BF9-4030-B9C9-C170402F82A4_zpsnbtwiiif.jpg (http://s376.photobucket.com/user/rodolfovii/media/Mobile%20Uploads/F7424801-4BF9-4030-B9C9-C170402F82A4_zpsnbtwiiif.jpg.html)
http://i376.photobucket.com/albums/oo203/rodolfovii/Mobile%20Uploads/BA11CCA7-F875-4258-B0F5-E18614D09045_zpsmeban97d.jpg (http://s376.photobucket.com/user/rodolfovii/media/Mobile%20Uploads/BA11CCA7-F875-4258-B0F5-E18614D09045_zpsmeban97d.jpg.html)

[bigmac]

Hey guys,

Here are pics of the work that happened on my Delorean yesterday.This was about 7 hours of work you see here. Taking the doors off was quite easy for the 2 of us. Getting the old box off was the time taker and then cleaning up the entire roof. It used 500 mls of epoxy to put on the front and rear pieces. After the clamps come off today it can have no pressure for 7 days. After taking the doors off we found the top door seals in bad condition and as I had an order leaving DMC California I quickly called Cameron and add new door seals. While on the car my roof box looked really good but last week we decided to take off the t-panel and take a look inside. The next day I called Ed from Delorean.eu and luckily he had a unit available for immediate shipment and the rest is history. After my experience I would be concerned as a Delorean owner that most roof boxes will be in bad shape.

We used Epiglass epoxy after a lot of research. The fiberglass on my roof was in great condition with only a couple of spots where the gelcoat came off.

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[81dmc]

Hey guys,

Here are pics of the work that happened on my Delorean yesterday.This was about 7 hours of work you see here. Taking the doors off was quite easy for the 2 of us. Getting the old box off was the time taker and then cleaning up the entire roof. It used 500 mls of epoxy to put on the front and rear pieces. After the clamps come off today it can have no pressure for 7 days. After taking the doors off we found the top door seals in bad condition and as I had an order leaving DMC California I quickly called Cameron and add new door seals. While on the car my roof box looked really good but last week we decided to take off the t-panel and take a look inside. The next day I called Ed from Delorean.eu and luckily he had a unit available for immediate shipment and the rest is history. After my experience I would be concerned as a Delorean owner that most roof boxes will be in bad shape.

We used Epiglass epoxy after a lot of research. The fiberglass on my roof was in great condition with only a couple of spots where the gelcoat came off.

34673346743467534676346773467834679346803468134682 34683346843468534686346873468834689346903469134692 34693346943469534696346973469834699347003470134702 3470334704

Great Job! I would recommend to also bolt down the rear roof piece with 4 stainless bolts to avoid future separation. I will post more pictures after my new drivers door is installed and aligned.

[bigmac]

Thanks,

We saw some people had done that but we are happy with the current setup as the centre piece will also lock down the front and rear sections.

Also the epoxy we used will not let that happen (we hope)

Cheers