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View Full Version : Engine Some problems after SPEC I install



81dmc
05-08-2015, 09:34 PM
Today, I just finished installing the new eagle starter and SPEC I exhaust. Well, I first started the car and let it run. I noticed some smoke and a burning smell from the exhaust pipes. As I let the car warm up, I saw a load of sparks, and the car shut off. I also saw smoke, and immediately inspected the area. However, when I got to the engine compartment, the bundle of wires to the starter was on fire.:ohcrap: I immediately put out the flame and disconnected the battery. Tomorrow, I will inspect the area more, but I believe the starter wires burned and grounded to the manifold thus sparking a flame.

Chris 16409
05-09-2015, 12:23 AM
After installing the headers, you need to make sure all the starter/alternator wiring are properly routed. I made that mistake too. While not as violent as you described, I had some sparking too. I made sure all the wires had enough distance away from the headers. I have an 83, so our wiring harness are a bit different. Good luck with your job ahead.

81dmc
05-09-2015, 09:57 AM
I had to run the harnesses a certain way because they are too short, but I believe I can use some wire harness sleeves and header tape to keep the wires safe. I stopped working after that happened because you don't exactly feel excited seeing your Delorean on fire.

David T
05-09-2015, 10:02 PM
Yea, I would say you have some "problems". You must inspect the wiring to make sure you found all of the burnt stuff. All the way to the battery AND the alternator. The battery and alternator should be tested, you may have damaged them. The battery should be recharged. Wiring should be kept at least 2" in all directions away from exhaust pipes. Even better you should sleeve the wires with heat-resistant covering and it should be fastened securely so they can't move close to the exhaust. Even better if you can re-route so they don't go near anything hot. Any wire showing heat damage should be cut out and replaced. Finally inspect the whole area for any other damage like cooling system hoses, brake lines, fiberglass, etc. If you used a fire extinguisher clean up the mess as best as you can.

81dmc
05-09-2015, 10:32 PM
I did check all the wiring. The only wire that was burnt is the smaller red wire going to the fiberglass near the coil and harness connectors.

DMCMW Dave
05-09-2015, 10:47 PM
I did check all the wiring. The only wire that was burnt is the smaller red wire going to the fiberglass near the coil and harness connectors.

Heh. Probably the one wire there that you can live without. It's only used to jump start the car, which you can do from the battery as well.

81dmc
05-09-2015, 11:23 PM
That is good to know, and I'll probably just leave the wire off and on my shelf. Another question, is a new SPEC exhaust supposed to smoke white on its first run?

David T
05-10-2015, 10:20 AM
That is good to know, and I'll probably just leave the wire off and on my shelf. Another question, is a new SPEC exhaust supposed to smoke white on its first run?

I can't speak specifically about the spec 1 but generally exhaust pipe has a coating of oil on it to keep it from getting rusty before it is sold. Typical to have to burn it off the first time you get it hot.

djdogbone
05-10-2015, 02:38 PM
Alexander's spec 1 did smoke white when it ran the first time. It's typical due to the above mentioned burn off of oil.

Delorean Industries
05-10-2015, 03:49 PM
Smoke is normal on first start up. This is due to the manufacturing process of cutting, mandrel bending etc. Starter wire orientation is crucial on this. As always please don't hesitate to contact directly with any installation issues.

81dmc
05-10-2015, 07:05 PM
Smoke is normal on first start up. This is due to the manufacturing process of cutting, mandrel bending etc. Starter wire orientation is crucial on this. As always please don't hesitate to contact directly with any installation issues.

I fixed the orientation of wires completely. I rerouted the large red wire near the transmission and the engine harness near the oil filter. Both wires are about 4" away from the manifold now.

-Rodolfo

5875
06-08-2015, 10:37 AM
I know Josh has his hands full with personal matters right now, so figured I'd post this here...

I'm starting to install my DPI SPEC I exhaust and noticed I don't have the rubber exhaust mounts (P/N 105148} to accept the muffler studs. For those who bought DPI's set-up, did your kit come with these? My car was previously straight-piped so I don't have the old ones either.

81dmc
06-08-2015, 10:43 AM
I know Josh has his hands full with personal matters right now, so figured I'd post this here...

I'm starting to install my DPI SPEC I exhaust and noticed I don't have the rubber exhaust mounts (P/N 105148} to accept the muffler studs. For those who bought DPI's set-up, did your kit come with these? My car was previously straight-piped so I don't have the old ones either.

On my SPEC I, I had to reuse the original ones. You need to order two new ones from DMCH if your car doesn't have the original exhaust.

5875
06-08-2015, 10:48 AM
On my SPEC I, I had to reuse the original ones. You need to order two new ones from DMCH if your car doesn't have the original exhaust.

Okay thanks. Just didn't want to order them from DMC if they were forgotten in the kit. Everything else in the kit has been top-notch and easy to install. It's an awesome system!

Chris 16409
06-09-2015, 03:35 AM
Those mounting bushings used to around $10, now they are over $30 each. Maybe you can find some nice used ones.

5875
06-09-2015, 01:40 PM
Those mounting bushings used to around $10, now they are over $30 each. Maybe you can find some nice used ones.

Yeah saw the $30 and thought - yikes! I guess that supply is nearing the end at DMCH.

On another note, anyone know the torque spec on the header bolts/nuts (P/N 102441)? I've looked everywhere in this forum, my workshop manual and torque specs on wiki, but it doesn't have it listed anywhere. Looking at the torque specs for muffler support brackets onto the engine block for M8 x13, it has NM @ 22 / Ft.Lb. @ 16. I'm thinking with an M5 bolt/nut it would need to be a bit lower than that. Thoughts?

dn010
06-09-2015, 02:33 PM
I just finished permanently installing the same system and I didn't use a torque, I just used "feel" rather. It would be impossible for me to get a torque wrench in there with all the crap I have on my engine in the way. I do have a book somewhere that has the torques I can post when I get home and look at it.

dn010
06-12-2015, 06:18 PM
Sorry for the delay - one of my books says 13ft/lbs torque for the cylinder head/exhaust manifold nuts. The system does not come with the bushings nor manifold to cylinder head gaskets. I had a pair of new gaskets on my shelf from years ago that I used but it you don't have any - order them with the system.

5875
06-12-2015, 08:39 PM
Sorry for the delay - one of my books says 13ft/lbs torque for the cylinder head/exhaust manifold nuts. The system does not come with the bushings nor manifold to cylinder head gaskets. I had a pair of new gaskets on my shelf from years ago that I used but it you don't have any - order them with the system.

Thanks for the torque spec. The gaskets came in the kit, so I'm good to go!