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View Full Version : Heat & A/C Getting a little more air



Some guy
05-14-2015, 08:35 PM
3446634467




So This worked great to give me a little more air. i was going to start running all new AC lines into the dash. Now i am just going to get some black plastic to make it look nice.

David T
05-14-2015, 10:06 PM
3446634467




So This worked great to give me a little more air. i was going to start running all new AC lines into the dash. Now i am just going to get some black plastic to make it look nice.

A long time ago there was a person who was selling a clear deflector that fit over the vents on the doors to angle the air just a little bit more so it can blow on the driver and passenger. Kind of what you are doing. Also check that the ducting inside the doors is not leaking. You don't want to waste all of that cold air cooling off the door!

DMCVegas
05-15-2015, 11:08 AM
The best way I've ever found to help the vents out is to use expanding insulation foam. You have to pull the buckets out of the door though.

34471

In that picture you'll see the door vent (11) and the foam gasket (12). What isn't pictured is the ductwork inside of the door. But I have found a picture of it, and it looks like this:

34472

Two big problems here: First is that the ducting is very flimsy. Second is that foam gasket wasn't really enough to do a proper job sealing, and 30 years hasn't done it any favors. Assuming it's still there. None of this ever really sealed properly, but more on that later.

Once you get everything apart, clean out the duct as well as the vent assembly. Reattach the vent to the duct, and then spray a thin bead of the foam between the vent and the duct. You won't need much at all. Then just let it set overnight. The next day you can take an X-Acto knife to it to gently trim away the excess foam so that it's flat and the escutcheon fits back properly if you sprayed too much.

Then just reassemble the door. The nice part here is that when you reassemble the door, you can get that ductwork realigned to the door properly as originally intended. The problem before was that that flimsy duct couldn't ever really line up 100% with either the vent, or the feeder duct coming out of the dash. If you open the door and hold your hand in front, you can feel that it's putting out a good amount of air flow. But most of it gets lost inside of the door through misalignment of the inlet and the outlet vent. You won't have that problem any more. I can attest that the difference is night and day on the air output. You WILL feel air blowing on you just by turning the vent.

Bitsyncmaster
05-15-2015, 11:15 AM
From where I sit, my door don't turn enough to blow directly on me. I was also thinking of some way to modify them. I have sealed the inside tight with foam.

Some guy
05-15-2015, 02:17 PM
It is going to be a long time, (i hope) before i have to rip the doors apart again.

What kind of Foam are you using? Just "Great stuff". from like a home depot?

Jeffu
05-15-2015, 02:29 PM
What kind of Foam are you using? Just "Great stuff". from like a home depot?

Yep- the expandable foam out of a can. I did both doors a few years ago and it was a big improvement. Just remember a little bit of that foam goes a long ways.

Bitsyncmaster
05-15-2015, 03:55 PM
I used foam intended to seal doors and windows. My hardware store has a large selection of that type of foam. Just build up the thickness you need.

DMCVegas
05-15-2015, 06:07 PM
Yep- the expandable foam out of a can. I did both doors a few years ago and it was a big improvement. Just remember a little bit of that foam goes a long ways.

Yep. Some more advice would be to wear gloves and old clothes. Once that stuff attaches, it does NOT like to come off. I had some get on a shirt I was wearing when I did my doors. 4 years later, that stuff was still attached.

Also, get a large piece of cardboard and squirt out a couple of practice lines. That will give you a good idea on how to better work with it. I would recommend only cracking the nozzle open rather than mashing down and going full force with the flow. Then when you're ready, spray it right between the vent and the plenum. Don't go too deep because your goal isn't to fill the ducting. And don't worry about going too high, because you're going to trim off all that excess once it fully cures.



I used foam intended to seal doors and windows. My hardware store has a large selection of that type of foam. Just build up the thickness you need.

You can use foam rubber, but I wouldn't recommend it. I like that kind of foam for things that are either replaceable, temporary, or get constantly crushed. Like the seals around a door, or an air filter. The other thing too is that like the original foam insert, it will eventually dry rot and crumble in a few years. Expanding Foam like "Great Stuff" is polyurethane foam is usually good for about 50 years or so.

Though for impact absorbers in cars, it's only rated at 20 years. Maybe we should look into replacing crash pads.... But that's another thread.

Spittybug
05-15-2015, 06:21 PM
I simply blocked off the vent duct at the dash and cut a new one in the knee pads..... much better volume, much better aim.

fnzen
05-15-2015, 08:47 PM
The DeLorean "Hockey Pucks" to block the door vents work well to make the air blow out the center vents

That and with heat deflect tint on the windows made my D polar cold!

Some guy
05-15-2015, 09:27 PM
The DeLorean "Hockey Pucks" to block the door vents work well to make the air blow out the center vents

That and with heat deflect tint on the windows made my D polar cold!

I live in California, and we are not allowed to have tinted windows.

I have been thinking of going with the clear window tint.

Is this what you have?

http://www.llumar.com/choose-a-product/automotive-window-films/clear-window-films

Silverbullet
05-15-2015, 09:52 PM
Wow... I live close to you... and we are allowed tinted windows... it is a legal % of tint... YES we can't do Limo Tint... the Cops want to be able to see you... But it does NOT have to be Clear...

Craig

Mario
05-15-2015, 09:57 PM
You can have tint, just not much. No tint on the windshield, any darkness tint on rear glass, and tint on front passenger windows must let 70% of light in, I believe.

DMCSPRINT
07-03-2015, 09:04 PM
I simply blocked off the vent duct at the dash and cut a new one in the knee pads..... much better volume, much better aim.

Hello, was curious when you put the ac vents into the knee pads on the drivers side, how did you run the ac duct work? Do you hook it into the side ac duct vent( where the ac duct that goes to the door vent) and then use a splitter or something so the air can flow to both knee pads? I was thinking of doing this but wasn't sure. I have a double din audio unit now so my center vents were already removed and I believe they blocked the air from the center already. Appreciate any help you can give me. Thanks