VIN 4728 Running Resto

[Rich_NYS]

Current status update:

-Car is running.
-New Eagle starter (sounds cool.)
-New Saturn Alternator...charging north of 13V
-Cooling system is completely rebuilt & functional, not seeing any leaks.
-Super-Gucci Toby fans come on somewhere above 150, but below 200.
-Heater & blower motor working well.
-Engine starts & runs nice, but carb needs a bit of tuning.
-Exhaust sounds pretty good, I'll probably leave the Magnaflows in place until sometime this summer.
-Brake system fully rebuilt, I need to bleed the lines.
-Needs a new clutch reservoir hose, then I'll bleed the clutch.
-Should be done with the "running & driving" stuff in February, then I'll move onto the interior & electrical stuff.


I encountered a few issues, but overall everything's going as planned.

[powerline84]

Nice progress. Congrats man!

[Rich_NYS]

Status update:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ix457cs3rar94mt/2-5-17a.AVI?dl=0

[powerline84]

Status update:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ix457cs3rar94mt/2-5-17a.AVI?dl=0

Bad ass. Jelouse yours runs !

[Drive Stainless]

Live the dream!

[Rich_NYS]

This week I'll probably start on rebuilding the CV joints, then bleed the brakes and drive it in & out of my garage... :rock_on:

[Rich_NYS]

Bad ass. Jelouse yours runs !

hahaha....ya, we'll see how jealous when you drop that new badass engine in yours!

[DMC-81]

Congrats Rich! That engine looks and sounds really good!! :thumbup:

[Lwanmtr]

Awesome...you might be on the road before me...lol

[OZ DMC]

Current status update:

-Car is running.
-New Eagle starter (sounds cool.)
-New Saturn Alternator...charging north of 13V
-Cooling system is completely rebuilt & functional, not seeing any leaks.
-Super-Gucci Toby fans come on somewhere above 150, but below 200.
-Heater & blower motor working well.
-Engine starts & runs nice, but carb needs a bit of tuning.
-Exhaust sounds pretty good, I'll probably leave the Magnaflows in place until sometime this summer.
-Brake system fully rebuilt, I need to bleed the lines.
-Needs a new clutch reservoir hose, then I'll bleed the clutch.
-Should be done with the "running & driving" stuff in February, then I'll move onto the interior & electrical stuff.


I encountered a few issues, but overall everything's going as planned.

This is an interesting and useful series of posts. Well done and thank you.

[Rich_NYS]

This is an interesting and useful series of posts. Well done and thank you.

Thanks!





Tonight I disassembled the axles. The CV boots aren't torn, but since I had the axles removed, I decided to proactively rebuild the CV joints. I'm also going to replace the bolts with socket-head cap screws.

I got a start on cleaning...I'll do little each night this week:

48842

[powerline84]

nice one of the many jobs I have left to do, on the back burner so to speak lol. This is one of those jobs that intimidate people, but there is really nothing to it. One of those adult legos things lol, take it apart...clean it...lube it ..re assemble lol. The only hard part is putting the clamps back on the boots, which I finally sprung for the right tool a couple years ago when working on my wife's mini.

[Rich_NYS]

nice one of the many jobs I have left to do, on the back burner so to speak lol. This is one of those jobs that intimidate people, but there is really nothing to it. One of those adult legos things lol, take it apart...clean it...lube it ..re assemble lol. The only hard part is putting the clamps back on the boots, which I finally sprung for the right tool a couple years ago when working on my wife's mini.

These days, the kits come with "zip-ties." Not nearly as sexy as the clamps that need the crimp tool, but they are reported to be reliable.

[Drive Stainless]

These days, the kits come with "zip-ties." Not nearly as sexy as the clamps that need the crimp tool, but they are reported to be reliable.

They can be made a lot more reliable if you use the zip-tie gun. :)

[DMC-81]

These days, the kits come with "zip-ties." Not nearly as sexy as the clamps that need the crimp tool, but they are reported to be reliable.

Hi Rich,

I am about to do this job myself. The old original boots were just starting to crack. I opted to add to my boot kit these stainless steel ties from Mouser:

Larger zip tie (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panduit/MLT27H-LP316/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv3%2fYgcm0iDLGk8D1e02hzPC693JNbJq7s% 3d)

Smaller zip tie (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panduit/MLT2LH-LP/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv3%2fYgcm0iDLGk8D1e02hzPOjLJq417DxE% 3d)

I also got a tube of Mobil 1 synthetic grease from a local auto parts store as a further upgrade.

This job is next for me after the exhaust, so thanks for sharing your experience. :thumbup:

[Jonathan]

Status update:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ix457cs3rar94mt/2-5-17a.AVI?dl=0

Lookin' good, Rich! You've done a real nice job with that.

[FABombjoy]

I opted to add to my boot kit these stainless steel ties from Mouser:
These are available at Home Depot (and probably other hardware stores) too for slightly less:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-11-in-Stainless-Steel-Tie-10-Pack-MLG-300ST-10/203531940?keyword=stainless+zip

They cut easily with tin snips

[Rich_NYS]

Hi Rich,

I am about to do this job myself. The old original boots were just starting to crack. I opted to add to my boot kit these stainless steel ties from Mouser:

Larger zip tie (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panduit/MLT27H-LP316/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv3%2fYgcm0iDLGk8D1e02hzPC693JNbJq7s% 3d)

Smaller zip tie (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panduit/MLT2LH-LP/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv3%2fYgcm0iDLGk8D1e02hzPOjLJq417DxE% 3d)

I also got a tube of Mobil 1 synthetic grease from a local auto parts store as a further upgrade.

This job is next for me after the exhaust, so thanks for sharing your experience. :thumbup:


I'll take some extra pics...let me know if there's anything specific you'd like. Also, there's a write-up on the job that's pretty good.

One think I would like to have done: Put the car on stands, run it while in gear, and use sandpaper on the axles while the spin (to prep for painting.)

[Bitsyncmaster]

Hi Rich,

I am about to do this job myself. The old original boots were just starting to crack. I opted to add to my boot kit these stainless steel ties from Mouser:

Larger zip tie (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panduit/MLT27H-LP316/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv3%2fYgcm0iDLGk8D1e02hzPC693JNbJq7s% 3d)

Smaller zip tie (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panduit/MLT2LH-LP/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv3%2fYgcm0iDLGk8D1e02hzPOjLJq417DxE% 3d)

I also got a tube of Mobil 1 synthetic grease from a local auto parts store as a further upgrade.

This job is next for me after the exhaust, so thanks for sharing your experience. :thumbup:

I place orders from Mouser 20 to 30 times a year. Never would have thought to look for those clamps from them.

[DMC-81]

These are available at Home Depot (and probably other hardware stores) too for slightly less:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-11-in-Stainless-Steel-Tie-10-Pack-MLG-300ST-10/203531940?keyword=stainless+zip

They cut easily with tin snips

Cool. I had seen and bought them at O'Reilly's in my travels, but those ones were too narrow. Never thought to look at Home Depot - thanks Luke. I was looking for two different sizes that would match the grooves in the boot. Mouser had them, and I was already ordering dash bulbs for my Maggie.

48846


I place orders from Mouser 20 to 30 times a year. Never would have thought to look for those clamps from them.

Love Mouser! It saved me $300 in one shot on a current limiter that blew in my pool chlorine generator logic board. $300 for a new board, or $6.00 for the exact limiter that a lightning strike melted. I just saved $200 on my Magnum avoiding purchasing a new HVAC control module that had the non-replaceable bulbs burned in it. $2 in miniature bulbs and a great post of instructions on the LX forum and now I can see it in the dark again. :wrenchin:



I'll take some extra pics...let me know if there's anything specific you'd like. Also, there's a write-up on the job that's pretty good.

One think I would like to have done: Put the car on stands, run it while in gear, and use sandpaper on the axles while the spin (to prep for painting.)

Great, thanks Rich! I'll look for the write up. Maybe any new learnings or photos in addition to the existing instructions. I did notice the lines on the shaft and wondered how to preserve them. I may try to strip the rust off with acid, depending on how bad they are.

[Rich_NYS]

I continued to work on the CV joints tonight, and will be painting the axles tomorrow night. I expect to finish & reinstall them this weekend.

I'm going to bring one of the new boots to Home Depot and see about using the item Luke posted.

Dana, you mentioned getting synthetic grease. If you didn't already know, the boot kits come with grease but I don't know if it's synthetic. I'll find that write-up for you.





I've been starting the car every night, it's running nice and it seems to sound "healthier" each time.

Fans come on at around 175 degrees.

After I get the axles installed and bleed the brakes & clutch, I'll be able to drive it in & out of my garage...I'm getting psyched!

[FABombjoy]

FWIW I'm running a pair of skinny nylon zip ties on the axle side of one of my boots. The locking blocks are rotated out of phase with each other to ensure there isn't an open pinched section. Been fine this way since I rebuilt them in 2007.

[Rich_NYS]

Dana, I'm guessing you already found it, but here's the article I mentioned anyway:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?1288-How-To-Rebuild-the-CV-Joints&highlight=Joints

I'll post anything I do differently...

[DMC-81]

Dana, I'm guessing you already found it, but here's the article I mentioned anyway:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?1288-How-To-Rebuild-the-CV-Joints&highlight=Joints

I'll post anything I do differently...

Thanks Rich! Good luck with the job.

[Rich_NYS]

Dana, I'm guessing you already found it, but here's the article I mentioned anyway:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?1288-How-To-Rebuild-the-CV-Joints&highlight=Joints

I'll post anything I do differently...


Thanks Rich! Good luck with the job.


The article is pretty good, I think you'll like it. I only have two things to add:

-For cleaning off the old grease; I first used heavy-duty disposable shop towels to clean the parts, then used cleaner (mineral spirits.)

-I didn't see [in the article] any mention of "which end is up" for the inner race. See in the pics:

This side goes toward the axle:
48856

This side faces "out:"
48857

Before disassembly:
48859

Installed:
48858




I have the parts cleaned & ready for reassembly:

48861

The axles in my custom spray booth, ready for painting:

48860

[Lwanmtr]

Fancy booth :)

[powerline84]

Looks like you got your balls nice and clean for those axles lol

[Rich_NYS]

Fancy booth :)

I figured it would become the envy of the DeLorean community.




Looks like you got your balls nice and clean for those axles lol

....and inspected for any imperfections! -lol

[Rich_NYS]

FWIW I'm running a pair of skinny nylon zip ties on the axle side of one of my boots. The locking blocks are rotated out of phase with each other to ensure there isn't an open pinched section. Been fine this way since I rebuilt them in 2007.

Elitist!



These are available at Home Depot (and probably other hardware stores) too for slightly less:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-11-in-Stainless-Steel-Tie-10-Pack-MLG-300ST-10/203531940?keyword=stainless+zip

They cut easily with tin snips


I bought a pack of these today; they're a bit narrower than the nylon ties that come with the boot kit, but appear to be around the same width as OEM.

[FABombjoy]

Elitist!
Haha, they are nylon after all. Not some pedestrian plastic zip ties.

Once a year I see them and think, "oh I should replace these with the proper clamp", then I promptly forget until the following year. 2017 will be the 10 year anniversary of good intentions.

[Rich_NYS]

I bought a pack of these today; they're a bit narrower than the nylon ties that come with the boot kit, but appear to be around the same width as OEM.

Correction: I found a pic & see the OEM bands are the same width as the grooves in the boot. Now WTH am I gonna do.....arghhhh!



Ready for grease & re-install:

48884

48885


I got these from McMaster to replace the OEM hex-head bolts:

48886


This week went well and as scheduled; axles will be complete & reinstalled tomorrow, brakes & clutch will be bled Sunday, and the car should be able to be backed out of my garage on Monday.

After this weekend, most of the undercarriage & drivetrain work will be complete, then it's interior & cosmetic stuff.

Most of the big jobs are done, so now I can start crossing things off the remaining list at a pretty good pace.

[powerline84]

Turned out nice man. I hope to be caught up to you and on to interior and cosmetic once I am back in NY in a few months. Fingers crossed lol.

[Rich_NYS]

Turned out nice man. I hope to be caught up to you and on to interior and cosmetic once I am back in NY in a few months. Fingers crossed lol.


At the rate you're going, I think by the time you get back to NY nd I come visit, there'll be nothing left for us to do except ride around & drink beer. :cheers:

[powerline84]

Also a viable option lol. I don't wanna dry it around looking like crap though...I'll have to atleast get the facias painted lol

[DMC-81]

Correction: I found a pic & see the OEM bands are the same width as the grooves in the boot. Now WTH am I gonna do.....arghhhh!



Ready for grease & re-install:

48884

48885


I got these from McMaster to replace the OEM hex-head bolts:

48886


This week went well and as scheduled; axles will be complete & reinstalled tomorrow, brakes & clutch will be bled Sunday, and the car should be able to be backed out of my garage on Monday.

After this weekend, most of the undercarriage & drivetrain work will be complete, then it's interior & cosmetic stuff.

Most of the big jobs are done, so now I can start crossing things off the remaining list at a pretty good pace.

Looking great Rich! :rock_on: Thanks for the pics and observations! That'll really help. Yeah, my boot kit came with grease, but I bought the synthetic as an upgrade. Probably not necessary... :dunno: I also opted for the hex bolts, they make much more sense.

[Rich_NYS]

Looking great Rich! :rock_on: Thanks for the pics and observations! That'll really help. Yeah, my boot kit came with grease, but I bought the synthetic as an upgrade. Probably not necessary... :dunno: I also opted for the hex bolts, they make much more sense.

Thanks Dana, the hex bolts worked well....much easier than the OEM bolts.



Today I finished the axles and installed them:


48900 48902




Tomorrow I'll bleed the clutch & brakes.

[Lwanmtr]

Very nice...moving right along

[Mark D]

Thanks Dana, the hex bolts worked well....much easier than the OEM bolts.



Today I finished the axles and installed them:


48900 48902


Tomorrow I'll bleed the clutch & brakes.

Looking great! Do you have a PN on the socket head bolts you got from McMaster? I have got a transmission to pull in my near future and I was thinking of going this route when I reinstall the axles.

[Rich_NYS]

Looking great! Do you have a PN on the socket head bolts you got from McMaster? I have got a transmission to pull in my near future and I was thinking of going this route when I reinstall the axles.

Thanks Mark,

McMaster part: 91290A536, Black-Oxide Alloy Steel Socket Head Screw, M10 x 1.5 mm Thread, 60 mm Long, Partially Threaded.

[Mark D]

Thanks Mark,

McMaster part: 91290A536, Black-Oxide Alloy Steel Socket Head Screw, M10 x 1.5 mm Thread, 60 mm Long, Partially Threaded.

Awesome, thanks!

[Rich_NYS]

Progress:

Car is running & driving again, so the big stuff should now be out of the way.

I'm working on changing the steering wheel & directional assembly, but the wheel is stuck. The air chisel method isn't working, so I pulled the column and propped it upright to allow ATF/acetone to creep into the splines Hopefully today is a better day.



I need to change the rear brake hoses, then bleed the system. I haven't yet found a cap for my pressure bleeder, so last night I came up with this:

49084

[Mark D]

Progress:

Car is running & driving again, so the big stuff should now be out of the way.

I'm working on changing the steering wheel & directional assembly, but the wheel is stuck. The air chisel method isn't working, so I pulled the column and propped it upright to allow ATF/acetone to creep into the splines Hopefully today is a better day.



I need to change the rear brake hoses, then bleed the system. I haven't yet found a cap for my pressure bleeder, so last night I came up with this:

49084

Ha! That's awesome...talk about using what you've got on hand... that looks like an old water pump coolant hose, right?

[Rich_NYS]

Ha! That's awesome...talk about using what you've got on hand... that looks like an old water pump coolant hose, right?

Yep.....see what you inspired? Haha.....I bet even Steve couldn't redneck a better solution than that!

[Andrew]

Progress:

Car is running & driving again, so the big stuff should now be out of the way.

I'm working on changing the steering wheel & directional assembly, but the wheel is stuck. The air chisel method isn't working, so I pulled the column and propped it upright to allow ATF/acetone to creep into the splines Hopefully today is a better day.



I need to change the rear brake hoses, then bleed the system. I haven't yet found a cap for my pressure bleeder, so last night I came up with this:

49084

The steering wheel is a pressed tapered fit. The best way to get it off without breaking anything or knocking a tooth out is to use a steering wheel puller. You'll need two long bolts to thread into the wheel and washers. IIRC they are M8, but check the forums to be sure. I used and air hammer quite a bit with no results. Once I gave in and bought the steering wheel puller, I had the wheel off in 30 seconds :-)

[Rich_NYS]

The steering wheel is a pressed tapered fit. The best way to get it off without breaking anything or knocking a tooth out is to use a steering wheel puller. You'll need two long bolts to thread into the wheel and washers. IIRC they are M8, but check the forums to be sure. I used and air hammer quite a bit with no results. Once I gave in and bought the steering wheel puller, I had the wheel off in 30 seconds :-)

Thanks Andrew, the air hammer isn't working. I'm going to get a puller and try to figure out what to do about bolts....probably tap the holes bigger as Dave M suggests.

[Bitsyncmaster]

The steering wheel is a pressed tapered fit. The best way to get it off without breaking anything or knocking a tooth out is to use a steering wheel puller. You'll need two long bolts to thread into the wheel and washers. IIRC they are M8, but check the forums to be sure. I used and air hammer quite a bit with no results. Once I gave in and bought the steering wheel puller, I had the wheel off in 30 seconds :-)

I'm pretty sure the wheel threads are M6 which is why they often pull the threads. Twice I have had to drill and tap to a larger 5/16" bolt.

[Rich_NYS]

This steering wheel is a pain in the ass; I pulled the m6 threads, and now trying to tap 5/16 threads.

If this doesn't go well, I'm going to post a pic of a steering wheel cut into two pieces.

[Bitsyncmaster]

This steering wheel is a pain in the ass; I pulled the m6 threads, and now trying to tap 5/16 threads.

If this doesn't go well, I'm going to post a pic of a steering wheel cut into two pieces.

Put some torque on the bolts and then tap (with a hammer) the bolt that is pressing on the center column stud. Keep adding more torque and keep tapping that bolt and it should break free.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Put some torque on the bolts and then tap (with a hammer) the bolt that is pressing on the center column stud. Keep adding more torque and keep tapping that bolt and it should break free.

I forgot to state that the "bolts" in the wheel you want to have those fully seated as far as they go. Then you use the nut on the bolt to add torque.

[Rich_NYS]

Thanks Dave,

I finally got it....thanks for stayin' in the game with me.

I think your advice to tap to a bigger size appears to be a "must do" for a stubborn wheel like this one.


It's still in one piece...I'll be listing it for sale soon.


Soooo....now I think I really am past all the hard stuff and should make my goal of being ready & waiting for driving season.

[Lwanmtr]

Cool..Always good when a part comes off and doesnt break..lol

[DMC-81]

Thanks Dave,

I finally got it....thanks for stayin' in the game with me.

I think your advice to tap to a bigger size appears to be a "must do" for a stubborn wheel like this one.


It's still in one piece...I'll be listing it for sale soon.


Soooo....now I think I really am past all the hard stuff and should make my goal of being ready & waiting for driving season.

Congrats Rich for getting the car mobile and getting the steering wheel off. :thumbup:

[Rich_NYS]

Congrats Rich for getting the car mobile and getting the steering wheel off. :thumbup:

Thanks Dana, it should be all downhill from here....

[Lwanmtr]

Thanks Dana, it should be all downhill from here....

Thats good, cause Deloreans are faster downhill ;)

[Rich_NYS]

I finished replacing the rear brake hoses & bled the brakes all the way around. Mark D's pressure-bleeder project is the bomb-diggity....very glad I went that route.

Today I re-installed the trailing arm shields using DPI's retaining strips:

491424914449145

When I install trailing arm shields, that's an indication to myself that "I'm DONE under here!" (For now, anyway.)


Updated list from the beginning of this thread:



~snip~
For 4728 I have 3 lists I'll work on simultaneously to reach my goal of having it on the road for short drives before snow season this year:


Get it safely running/driving

Fuel System
Carburetor adjustment/fine tune running
Valve adjustment
Replace Cooling System Hoses
Rebuild Calipers
Replace Master Brake Cylinder
Replace Belts
Replace Plug Wires
Replace Oil Sender
Check all grounding points following Bill's diagram
Exhaust Manifold Gasket
Oil change

Cosmetics to stay motivated

Repair/Paint Rear Facsia
Paint Sunshade Louvre, Black Trim & Side Mirrors
Clean/Shampoo Carpets, detail interior
Front & Rear Headliners
Convex Side Mirrors
Restore Seats
Door Seals
Steering Column Bushing
LED's
Clean & Paint Frame and Closing Plate
Modify pull-straps to later VIN style
Replace Cargo Net Bungee


While I'm in there

Brake Booster clean & paint
Dynamat
Fix Tail Lights
Run speaker wire for future use




Get it safely running/driving

Check all grounding points following Bill's diagram

Cosmetics to stay motivated

Repair/Paint Rear Facsia
Paint Sunshade Louvre, Black Trim & Side Mirrors
detail interior
Front & Rear Headliners
Convex Side Mirrors
Door Seals
LED's
Modify pull-straps to later VIN style
Replace Cargo Net Bungee


While I'm in there

Dynamat
Fix Tail Lights
Run speaker wire for future use



The car is on the ground, running & driving...the rest of the work is "above deck" now. Still on schedule to be ready & waiting for driving season in 2-3 months.

[Lwanmtr]

Awesome..looks really good.

I suggest using Fatmat, rather than Dynamat...mucho less expensive...I did the whole inside of mine for around the cost one package of dynamat.

The convex mirror replacements are great..I havent driven mine much, but the short time i did, they provided a decent feild of view.

[Rich_NYS]

Awesome..looks really good.

I suggest using Fatmat, rather than Dynamat...mucho less expensive...I did the whole inside of mine for around the cost one package of dynamat.

The convex mirror replacements are great..I havent driven mine much, but the short time i did, they provided a decent feild of view.

Thanks Rob,

How many sq ft did you use, and is Fatmat made with butyl or asphalt?

I'm considering this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Noico-Black-80-MIL-36-SqFt-Car-Sound-Deadener-Dynamat-deadening-Xtreme-sample-/251811595900?hash=item3aa124067c:g:peAAAOSwB9xXOwX 4&vxp=mtr

[Lwanmtr]

Here's what I used... http://www.fatmat.com/shop/50-sq-ft-mega-mat-butyl-bulk-pack-install-kit-included-6592

Fatmat is butyl...I bought around 75sq feet, I think..but then that did everything...and I still have some left over. and was arund$180 total.

[Mark D]

I finished replacing the rear brake hoses & bled the brakes all the way around. Mark D's pressure-bleeder project is the bomb-diggity....very glad I went that route.

Today I re-installed the trailing arm shields using DPI's retaining strips:


When I install trailing arm shields, that's an indication to myself that "I'm DONE under here!" (For now, anyway.)
*snip*

Looks fantastic, and I'm glad the pressure bleeder worked out well for you!

How did you get those trailing arm shields looking so minty fresh? Mine are all pitted and look pretty rough. I considered a scotch brite pad but then I'd end up with a brushed finish and not that dull anodized looking patina.

[Rich_NYS]

Looks fantastic, and I'm glad the pressure bleeder worked out well for you!

How did you get those trailing arm shields looking so minty fresh? Mine are all pitted and look pretty rough. I considered a scotch brite pad but then I'd end up with a brushed finish and not that dull anodized looking patina.


I showed the bleeder to a friend of mine who has a '77 pickup....he wants to use it to bleed his brakes.

I cleaned the shields with Eagle One etching mag cleaner, but they're kinda "streaky" and I ran out of cleaner, so I can't say for sure it's the best solution. I think it has the potential to work well, but I believe it needs to be worked a bit with a cloth and close supervision (I let it sit too long I think.) After cleaning, I wiped them with Fluid Film.

[Drive Stainless]

I showed the bleeder to a friend of mine who has a '77 pickup....he wants to use it to bleed his brakes.

I cleaned the shields with Eagle One etching mag cleaner, but they're kinda "streaky" and I ran out of cleaner, so I can't say for sure it's the best solution. I think it has the potential to work well, but I believe it needs to be worked a bit with a cloth and close supervision (I let it sit too long I think.) After cleaning, I wiped them with Fluid Film.

Have you tried Eagle One on things like valve covers? How well does it work?

[Rich_NYS]

Have you tried Eagle One on things like valve covers? How well does it work?

I used it on my valve covers, but I wasn't completely "wowed" by it....I'd rate it as "pretty good."

I used a few rounds of Simple Green & Eagle One on the covers worked it with a small nylon brush:

49175

[Mark D]

I showed the bleeder to a friend of mine who has a '77 pickup....he wants to use it to bleed his brakes.

I cleaned the shields with Eagle One etching mag cleaner, but they're kinda "streaky" and I ran out of cleaner, so I can't say for sure it's the best solution. I think it has the potential to work well, but I believe it needs to be worked a bit with a cloth and close supervision (I let it sit too long I think.) After cleaning, I wiped them with Fluid Film.


Cool thanks for the info. I'll have to get some Eagle One and try it out.

[Rich_NYS]

Tonight I installed DPI Josh's visor mount brackets, then sanded my rear fascia for a while...

49221

The brackets are nice!

[powerline84]

Nice, I got all my visor screws out except one when I removed the visors....1 snapped lol. I'll deal with that after the car runs lol

[Lwanmtr]

Nice. Got pics of the rear fascia?

[Drive Stainless]

I used it on my valve covers, but I wasn't completely "wowed" by it....I'd rate it as "pretty good."

I used a few rounds of Simple Green & Eagle One on the covers worked it with a small nylon brush:

49175

I agree that's pretty good!

[Rich_NYS]

Nice. Got pics of the rear fascia?

I'll get some tomorrow.

I got the SEM paint you used, the color [on the cap] looks nice!

[Lwanmtr]

Yeah, I think it looks nice against the stainless too...I did like 3 or 4 coats.

[Rich_NYS]

I'll get some tomorrow.

Got sidetracked....Ill try for some pics this week.



Full-speed ahead on the interior:

I removed & cleaned most of the vinyl pieces, prepping for dye.

My window motors work, but I'd like to service what I can so they continue to function....any suggestions?

[Lwanmtr]

just use some silicon lube i think. I had to replace mine, so not sure about maintaining the old ones...hehe

[Rich_NYS]

March status update:

-4728 runs & drives.
-Everything "below deck" is complete for now.
-Currently have most interior pieces out, cleaned and beginning prep for dye.
-Mirrors, grill, and tail lights removed for restoration.
-Rear fascia is on the bench for sanding & repair....repainting soon.

So far, I've met all my timeline goals for having the car road-ready & waiting for Spring.

Here are the updated goals:

-March/April: finish dying interior pieces, finish rear fascia, re-paint black parts, resolve any electrical issues, re-assemble everything, regrain, anti-vibration steering upgrade.
-April 22nd: trailer it to the DMA event; I expect it to be road-ready at that time, but I don't want to drive it from my area to NJ. I'm signed up for a door-adjustment and will install new Grady struts.
-May: finish minor cosmetic stuff, probably do the headliners around this time.
-Late May/early June: put it on the road (conditions permitting.)

"On the side," I'll be working on a Peugeot manifold setup. I plan to complete it while running the current [modified K-Jet manifold] setup, then swap it out on a weeknight.

[Lwanmtr]

Any new pics?

[Rich_NYS]

Started dying my interior pieces today. It might not have been entirely necessary, but since I restored the seats and will be restoring the binnacle, I wanted everything to be matchy-matchy.


I'll apply one coat using brushes, then I'll touch up as needed & go over the pieces with a "second coat" using cheesecloth to even out any variances.

Pics of two pieces; one with the first coat, the other prepped & ready:

494874948849489

[Lwanmtr]

Those look really good. What are you using to dye them?

Still no pics of your fascia? ;)

[Mark D]

Great results Rich. I've got some interior parts to dye myself in the near future so I'll be keeping an eye on this thread for sure. I can't wait to see how it all looks when you're done.

[Rich_NYS]

Those look really good. What are you using to dye them?

Still no pics of your fascia? ;)

Leatherique leather & vinyl dye, I'm pretty happy with it. I keep forgetting the fascia pics...sorry!



Great results Rich. I've got some interior parts to dye myself in the near future so I'll be keeping an eye on this thread for sure. I can't wait to see how it all looks when you're done.

I'm very satisfied so far. I'm kinda surprised more owners aren't using it, although IIRC I read where somebody just recently (past year or so) sent a swatch so maybe it hasn't been available.

I'll have more progress pics soon....

[Bill6298]

Leatherique leather & vinyl dye, I'm pretty happy with it. I keep forgetting the fascia pics...sorry!




I'm very satisfied so far. I'm kinda surprised more owners aren't using it, although IIRC I read where somebody just recently (past year or so) sent a swatch so maybe it hasn't been available.

I'll have more progress pics soon....

Hi Rich, is this their custom match product or does the stock gray dye happen to match? If custom, do they have this on file now or do we all have to mail in something to be matched?

[Rich_NYS]

Hi Rich, is this their custom match product or does the stock gray dye happen to match? If custom, do they have this on file now or do we all have to mail in something to be matched?

Custom matched, and they have it on file. A few days ago I ordered a 2nd 16oz bottle........"DeLorean, Grey interior" was all the info they needed. I mentioned I have the part# on my invoice but they didn't need it.

I think it's important to mention: freshly dyed pieces aren't an exact match with the existing pieces. I think I could've gotten away with just the seats, but not something like a kneepad. I do believe the color is proper, but I think the existing vinyl is a bit discolored over time. That applied to both interiors I've done anyway...

[Rich_NYS]

Passenger side upper door panel almost finished, drivers side not yet started:

49640


Console w/1st cot of dye, coin tray "before:"

49643

[Lwanmtr]

Very nice. I painted my coin tray black

[dmcnc]

Are you able to keep the stitching silver or does it blend in with the dye?


Passenger side upper door panel almost finished, drivers side not yet started:

49640


Console w/1st cot of dye, coin tray "before:"

49643

[Rich_NYS]

Are you able to keep the stitching silver or does it blend in with the dye?

If you use a brush [instead of spraying,] the stitching will remain "as-is" (as long as you don't get too close to it with a really "wet" brush.) That's one of the reasons I prefer Leatherique over spraying SEM.

I first use a small brush around the stitching, you can see the technique here:

49646

"Top" done with 1 coat, working down the side:

49647

Armrest on the left has one complete coat of dye, the one on the left wasn't re-dyed yet:

49650


Completed kneepad with a good close-up of the stitching:

49651

[Drive Stainless]

Passenger side upper door panel almost finished, drivers side not yet started:

49640


Console w/1st cot of dye, coin tray "before:"

49643

Mmm those upper door panels are now deliciously plump.

[Rich_NYS]

Correction:


~snip~

49647

Armrest on the left has one complete coat of dye, the one on the right wasn't re-dyed yet:

49650
~snip~

[dmcnc]

Amazing work, Rich! I'll have to ping you later for more details :)


If you use a brush [instead of spraying,] the stitching will remain "as-is" (as long as you don't get too close to it with a really "wet" brush.) That's one of the reasons I prefer Leatherique over spraying SEM.

I first use a small brush around the stitching, you can see the technique here:

49646

"Top" done with 1 coat, working down the side:

49647

Armrest on the left has one complete coat of dye, the one on the left wasn't re-dyed yet:

49650


Completed kneepad with a good close-up of the stitching:

49651

[Rich_NYS]

This past weekend I completed most of the interior re-dye, and restoration/repair of the upper door panels and rear "speaker panels."

Upper door panel:

4984649847



Rear panel:

49849498504985149852498534985449855

[Slammer]

Wow, you're getting some amazing results.

[Parzval]

Looking good! You better be bringing this to the DMA meet next month. :cool:

[Lwanmtr]

How did you repair the rear speaker panels? they look great.

[Rich_NYS]

Looking good! You better be bringing this to the DMA meet next month. :cool:

Yessir, but I'm bringing it on a trailer. Our roads here won't be clear of salt/sand/crap for probably 2 more months.




How did you repair the rear speaker panels? they look great.

Thanks Rob!

Referencing the pics:

-I trimmed the raggedy-ass edge of the vinyl
-Slid strips of vinyl between the existing vinyl and panel
-Used 3M weatherstrip adhesive to secure the new vinyl to the backside of the old vinyl
-Re-dyed the finished repair

[Rich_NYS]

Last night I started the integrated pullstrap mod. It was a bit nerve-wracking to cut into the panel and slice the upholstery, but Dave Swingle wrote a good set of instructions that came with the kit, so that helped calm my nerves a bit -lol.

The reproduced bezels that come in the DMC kit have [IMO] a really crappy finish, and the fender washers are nowhere near the size needed. Between buying more hardware & refinishing the bezels, I'll probably spend $10 at the hardware store and a few more hours to make it work. I unfortunately wasn't able to finish due to missing & sub-standard parts.

The straps look great and I'm totally psyched to get the interior reassemble & see the finished result.

499284992949930499314993249933

[Drive Stainless]

I can make those from aluminum or stainless, if you send me one.

[Lwanmtr]

Whats the advantage of later strap placement?

[Rich_NYS]

I can make those from aluminum or stainless, if you send me one.

Thanks Matt, I'm planning to shoot them with black rustoleum for plastic.

[Rich_NYS]

Whats the advantage of later strap placement?


It pulls on the center of the door for a more even (and easier) close, it's not "in the way" on the handle, and probably also takes stress off the handle.

I've had both....I like the later style better.





I finished the pullstraps tonite.

After repainting DMCH's crappy reproduction bezels and buying the missing hardware, I assembled everything and have the bolsters ready for reinstallation.

501795018050181

[Lwanmtr]

Ahh did not know that. Though not sure I trust myself to be able to cut into the panels to do that mod...hehe.

Looking good.

[Rich_NYS]

Repaired, installed, and tested the vacuum actuator for the center console vents. I used a plastic-welder to repair the break and also reinforce the part.
I normally try to make things look "Dana-good," but this part is out of sight so I was only concerned with fit & function. Plus, I have higher-priority stuff to spend time on.

50509505105051150512


Finished the pullstraps and re-assembled the bolsters, I'll re-install them this week:

5051350514


Re-attached the passenger A-Pillar and dyed both. All my interior pieces are re-dyed and ready to be re-installed.

5051550516


I also re-dyed this part:

50517

Headliner boards are cleaned and I began coating with fiberglass resin. I also double-checked the fit of the roof boards; I'll be making a one-piece headliner:

50518


Last night I cleaned the exposed interior, secured loose wiring, removed the rear speaker wire, and started running new wire:

50519


I only need to install rear speakers and sound deadener, then I can put the interior back together....should be this weekend.

Next I'll be painting the black parts and regraining.

Less than 3 weeks left to have it ready to bring to the DMA event in Jersey. Luckily I'm off the week after next, so I should have plenty of time.

[Lwanmtr]

Did you completely remove the A pillars? When you put them back in, how did you handle the stuff thats supposed to tuck under the windshield?

[Drive Stainless]

Repaired, installed, and tested the vacuum actuator for the center console vents. I used a plastic-welder to repair the break and also reinforce the part.
I normally try to make things look "Dana-good," but this part is out of sight so I was only concerned with fit & function. Plus, I have higher-priority stuff to spend time on.


Rich, did you find that the two roof headliner boards fit together in your car precisely at the molded "seam?" My experience has been that the overall length of the roof, and correspondingly, the length of the roof headliner, is consistent between cars.

Some speculate that the roof headliner was produced as a two-piece design to compensate for dimensional variations in the underbody. Based on my findings, I think that this decision was probably overly-cautious and unnecessary.

[Rich_NYS]

Rich, did you find that the two roof headliner boards fit together in your car precisely at the molded "seam?" My experience has been that the overall length of the roof, and correspondingly, the length of the roof headliner, is consistent between cars.

Some speculate that the roof headliner was produced as a two-piece design to compensate for dimensional variations in the underbody. Based on my findings, I think that this decision was probably overly-cautious and unnecessary.

Yes, it fit exactly at the seam. As you suggested a while back, I test-fitted it first and was going to staple or mark it. I saw that it fit perfectly at the seam so I used that as reference.

The theory about the two-piece design sounds a little sketchy, but I'm not sure I have a better one.

*edit: The one-piece is pretty floppy, and maybe it takes a bit more finesse' to install....maybe the two-piece was a production & assembly influenced decision.

[Rich_NYS]

Did you completely remove the A pillars? When you put them back in, how did you handle the stuff thats supposed to tuck under the windshield?

I didn't remove the A-Pillars, I painted them with Leatherique dye with them in place.

[Rich_NYS]

Interior reassembly.

5055950560


Center dash stud:

50558

[Rich_NYS]

I finished installing the damn front speakers today.

[Lwanmtr]

No pics? hehe. Im not looking forward to getting to those myself.

[Rich_NYS]

More reassembly today:

5058150582

I was pretty jazzed to get this bag opened up again, my carpets have been bagged since I cleaned them last summer. It's nice to have everything clean, fresh-smelling, and ready to go:

50583

Installed this one today:
50584

I was missing one of the things that the cargo net clips to, so I made one from a coat hanger:

505855058650587

[Lwanmtr]

Looking good. Nice when you ca start putting things back on.

[Rich_NYS]

50960509565095950958

5096150962

50963

[Lwanmtr]

Looking good. Nice repair job on the rear fascia.

[Rich_NYS]

Looking good. Nice repair job on the rear fascia.

Thanks Rob, I used your paint scheme....I really like it, thanks for that!

[Lwanmtr]

Sure thing. Cant wait to see it on the car.

[powerline84]

I cant believe thats the same rear fascia..nice work man

[Mark D]

Wow Rich, you continue to impress with your wide array of skills. Great job on the interior and the rear fascia restoration. I don't think I would have even attempted such a repair on the fascia but you pulled it off flawlessly.

[Rich_NYS]

Wow Rich, you continue to impress with your wide array of skills. Great job on the interior and the rear fascia restoration. I don't think I would have even attempted such a repair on the fascia but you pulled it off flawlessly.

Thanks Mark!

It still has a ways to go, but it's getting there. So far I'm still on track to be ready & waiting for driving season....should be a few more weeks.

I'll be working through a few rough areas as time permits, but for now at least it's back in one piece:

51019510205102151022

[Mark D]

That license plate is the best! I don't think I've seen another DeLorean with that plate. 8)

From the pics it looks like you're getting the rain that we just got here in the midwest. Today is going to be nice and I might just get my car out for spring if my backyard isn't a mud pit. I charged up the battery last weekend but it's still tucked in the garage hibernating.

[Lwanmtr]

Wow....Looks really good. The color looks good in the light too (i havent seen mine on the car outside yet).

[Rich_NYS]

Wow....Looks really good. The color looks good in the light too (i havent seen mine on the car outside yet).

It's a bit darker than OEM, but close enough [on this car] that it's not immediately noticeable.

[Lwanmtr]

It was actually a bit lighter than what was on mine.

[Rich_NYS]

VIN 4728 arrived on 3-27-15. It stayed in my driveway until 5-1-15 while waiting for VIN 10372 to be picked up and transported to it's new owner (*sniff*.)

I learned a lot about owning/restoring a DeLorean in the year that I owned 10372, and learned the approach that works for me. I make a spreadsheet to track costs, progress, and maintain a prioritized to-do list. For 4728 I have 3 lists I'll work on simultaneously to reach my goal of having it on the road for short drives before snow season this year:

Get it safely running/driving

Fuel System
Carburetor adjustment/fine tune running
Valve adjustment
Replace Cooling System Hoses
Rebuild Calipers
Replace Master Brake Cylinder
Replace Belts
Replace Plug Wires
Replace Oil Sender
Check all grounding points following Bill's diagram
Exhaust Manifold Gasket
Oil change

Cosmetics to stay motivated

Repair/Paint Rear Facsia
Paint Sunshade Louvre, Black Trim & Side Mirrors
Clean/Shampoo Carpets, detail interior
Front & Rear Headliners
Convex Side Mirrors
Restore Seats
Door Seals
Steering Column Bushing
LED's
Clean & Paint Frame and Closing Plate
Modify pull-straps to later VIN style
Cargo Net


While I'm in there

Brake Booster clean & paint
Dynamat
Fix Tail Lights
Run speaker wire for future use





Here's what's left from the lists above:


Check all grounding points following Bill's diagram (almost done)

Cargo Net (almost done)


There's a bunch of other (unexpected) stuff I added to the lists also. (Bumper repair, replace horns, front coilovers, re-dye entire interior....etc.)


I've driven it a few times, but currently have the car on stands to bypass the accumulator. I also have the intake off in hopes of replacing with my Peugeot manifold.

[Lwanmtr]

Wow..gettin' really close to being completed.

Pretty cool when you keep adding to the list of things to do....I just added some minor things too. lol

[Rich_NYS]

Installed horns & diagnosed reverse lights tonite.

[Lwanmtr]

Turn them around, they wont be reversed anymore

[Rich_NYS]

I replaced my front parking light assembly, installed LED's in the front, and replaced the reverse light switch.

All my lights function properly and all 1156, 1157, doors & domes are LED's. For all intents & purposes, my car is ready for NYS inspection (not that it matters until my plate is due.)

The carb I bought off eBay is due Thursday, so if all goes well I'll have everything back together this weekend for a test drive.

It rained hard & heavy the past 2 days...the local roads will officially be ready for driving season (and possibly beginning my driving season...YA!)

[Lwanmtr]

Didnt take any pretty lighted pictures? shame!

[Rich_NYS]

Finished my binnacle repair, prepping for OEM grey:

513425134351344

[DMC-81]

Finished my binnacle repair, prepping for OEM grey:

513425134351344

Wow, that looks great!

[Rich_NYS]

Wow, that looks great!

Thanks Dana, I just finished the first coat:

51345

Later tonight or tomorrow I'll put another coat.

[Lwanmtr]

Wow...that turned out really good. Did you use that stuff from Polyvance?

[Rich_NYS]

Wow...that turned out really good. Did you use that stuff from Polyvance?

Thanks. Yes, I used the polyvance....works good.

[Lwanmtr]

Cool. I'll probably be getting their kit eventually.

[Rich_NYS]

Cash me ousiide....how 'bout dah?

51347513485134951350513515135251353513545135551356



Now I need to work on the bezel:

51357

I also finished my headliners today:

51358

[Lwanmtr]

Very nice work there. What did you use for the texture?

[Rich_NYS]

Very nice work there. What did you use for the texture?

Thanks.

I used SEM for the texture; Polyvance has a texture spray that I was going to use, but Andrew used SEM and reported great results with it so I decided on that.

[Lwanmtr]

Have the part # for that SEM texture? I need to order more black, and might as well grab that too.

[Rich_NYS]

Have the part # for that SEM texture? I need to order more black, and might as well grab that too.

39853

[Lwanmtr]

Thanks..just ordered it :) Still gotta get that kit from Polyvance.

[Mark D]

Cash me ousiide....how 'bout dah?

51347513485134951350513515135251353513545135551356



Now I need to work on the bezel:

51357

I also finished my headliners today:

51358

Damn dude that looks amazing. You should start buying old-n-busted binnacles and repairing/selling them in your free time. You would make BANK.

[mluder]

Damn dude that looks amazing. You should start buying old-n-busted binnacles and repairing/selling them in your free time. You would make BANK.

As long as it holds up (and I hope it does). Most crack fill and repaints end up with the cracks opening up again in a few months. I've yet to see one last.
Like I said... hope I'm wrong and he's nailed it.

Cheers
Steve

[Rich_NYS]

As long as it holds up (and I hope it does). Most crack fill and repaints end up with the cracks opening up again in a few months. I've yet to see one last.
Like I said... hope I'm wrong and he's nailed it.

Cheers
Steve

I didn't use crack filler. I repaired the cracks, then used padded dash filler.

I think crack filling fails due to not bonding to the crack, and not being flexible enough. I think (hope) I covered both issues.....time will tell!

[mluder]

I didn't use crack filler. I repaired the cracks, then used padded dash filler.

I think crack filling fails due to not bonding to the crack, and not being flexible enough. I think (hope) I covered both issues.....time will tell!

Yeah... I looked at the Polyvance website after commenting. Could be just the trick.
Good luck!

Steve

[powerline84]

Rich any ideas on a place to get a close color to the dark grey for black cars ? I may have to try this with you this summer on my headliners. mine are so faded, not sure i can just go to an interior shop and get a mach.

[Lwanmtr]

Actually I've been looking at a few SEM products that look close...Gonna be comparing their swatches to see whats a close match, since I have to repair my dash pad.

[Rich_NYS]

Driving season officially began last week. I would've met my goal of being ready & waiting, but I pulled my Byrne carb manifold to install a Peugeot setup last week. I had some issues with the Peugeot setup, so tonight I swapped back to the Byrne manifold and went for a drive. I have an odd stumble when I hit 2500 RPM, but I'm able to move past it by teasing the throttle.

Aside from that minor issue, it's official....I'm on the road and will be driving every week from now until the snow comes.

Early observations:
-Steering feels good
-Brakes feel good
-Clutch feels good, and seems to be getting better as I drive it (Ron was right.)
-Suspension feels good
-Shifting feels good, although I need to get used to it....feels like I could tear the shift lever off if I wanted to.
-Even with the wonky running issue, this carbed 5-speed has ~25% more balls than my previous OEM automatic. (Glory to God: 5th gear, yo!)
-I have Hervey headers with Magnaflow mufflers. I intended to run them this year and work on a custom exhaust over the Winter, but I need to do something asap....they're too loud.



No A/C yet, but that's on the priority list.

[Lwanmtr]

Cool youre finally on the road, and sounds like its going good. Why stop driving when the snows come? Hehe.

[Mark D]

Congrats on finally getting your car on the road! It's been really awesome to see your project progress along and follow all the photos and updates. Aside from the running issue that is left to sort out it sounds like everything else turned out great.

[Andrew]

Driving season officially began last week. I would've met my goal of being ready & waiting, but I pulled my Byrne carb manifold to install a Peugeot setup last week. I had some issues with the Peugeot setup, so tonight I swapped back to the Byrne manifold and went for a drive. I have an odd stumble when I hit 2500 RPM, but I'm able to move past it by teasing the throttle.

Aside from that minor issue, it's official....I'm on the road and will be driving every week from now until the snow comes.

Early observations:
-Steering feels good
-Brakes feel good
-Clutch feels good, and seems to be getting better as I drive it (Ron was right.)
-Suspension feels good
-Shifting feels good, although I need to get used to it....feels like I could tear the shift lever off if I wanted to.
-Even with the wonky running issue, this carbed 5-speed has ~25% more balls than my previous OEM automatic. (Glory to God: 5th gear, yo!)
-I have Hervey headers with Magnaflow mufflers. I intended to run them this year and work on a custom exhaust over the Winter, but I need to do something asap....they're too loud.



No A/C yet, but that's on the priority list.

On 5052 I'm running Hervey headers with a single Magnaflow Tru-x muffler located in the stock muffler location. I had a local exhaust shop bend and weld custom pipes for me. I've been very happy with both the sound and the performance. I can send you the part number for the muffler that I used if you want.

[DMC-81]

Congrats Rich! You must be elated! :)

[Rich_NYS]

Congrats on finally getting your car on the road! It's been really awesome to see your project progress along and follow all the photos and updates. Aside from the running issue that is left to sort out it sounds like everything else turned out great.

Thanks Mark, I still have a list but it's a short list and at least I'm on the road. I appreciate the good recommendations you gave me along the way.



On 5052 I'm running Hervey headers with a single Magnaflow Tru-x muffler located in the stock muffler location. I had a local exhaust shop bend and weld custom pipes for me. I've been very happy with both the sound and the performance. I can send you the part number for the muffler that I used if you want.

I was just thinking of you today and was about to PM and ask what muffler you used, and if you think a Flowmaster series 50 would work.




Congrats Rich! You must be elated! :)

Yes, totally....thanks!

[Rich_NYS]

Took a short ride today, but my battery light is on so I didn't want to go far.

Stopped to take a pic with a late 70's Plymouth Arrow near where I live:

51668

[Lwanmtr]

Nice. Running well?

You showing good level on the volt guage?

[Jonathan]

Took a short ride today, but my battery light is on so I didn't want to go far.

Stopped to take a pic with a late 70's Plymouth Arrow near where I live:

51668

Beauty Rich! Congrats! Really great to see you on the road!

If this marks the next chapter in the restoration of 4728, would you want to start a new thread/section on issues you're still getting resolved? I think this is about the 400th post here and there's lots of info. Might be easier for others to read a current list of issues than working backwards through this thread. Just a suggestion, up to you of course.

[Rich_NYS]

Beauty Rich! Congrats! Really great to see you on the road!

If this marks the next chapter in the restoration of 4728, would you want to start a new thread/section on issues you're still getting resolved? I think this is about the 400th post here and there's lots of info. Might be easier for others to read a current list of issues than working backwards through this thread. Just a suggestion, up to you of course.


Good point, I hadn't thought of that....I'll do that going forward. :thumbup:

[Rich_NYS]

Good point, I hadn't thought of that....I'll do that going forward. :thumbup:

(Hanging out on the Thug Forum is compromising my sense of etiquette -lol.)

[refugeefromcalif]

(Hanging out on the Thug Forum is compromising my sense of etiquette -lol.)

Well, everyone's allowed a bad habit or two... :biggrin:

Your car's looking Great!

George

[Rich_NYS]

I have my lambda counter out so I can reset it and diagnose my speedometer.

The counter rolled over while driving (at what I would've predicted to be 30K miles,) so I'm thinking I'm good from the wheel to the counter.

I can see the needle move when I spin the upper cable, so I'm thinking that's good.

But....my speedometer doesn't work.

Any thoughts?

[Lwanmtr]

the needle on your speedo moves when you spin the upper cable? does spinning the front wheel make the angle drive part spin?

[Rich_NYS]

the needle on your speedo moves when you spin the upper cable? does spinning the front wheel make the angle drive part spin?

yep...

[Lwanmtr]

Was it working fine before you pulled the counter?

[Rich_NYS]

Took my counter apart tonight & cleaned it a bit.

I spun the upper cable and the speedometer needle moves.

I spun the wheel and the lower cable moves.

I attached the lower cable & spun the wheel....the thing in the lambda counter moves.

I attached the upper cable & spun the wheel....the speedometer needle moves (albeit, somewhat jumpy.)

It was too late for test drive, but I think it'll work. I'm guessing that I didn't have the upper cable installed properly...

[Lwanmtr]

Could be some wear in the lambda or on the upper cable end that plugs into it. When I spun mine it didnt jump that I'm aware.

[Rich_NYS]

My speedometer works now. It's a little "jumpy" at times, but it works. I think my odometer is off by ~800 miles, and I believe the car to have ~30,400 miles on it.

[Lwanmtr]

Cool. I'd still bet maybe one of the cables or the lambda is worn a bit and slips...but if its working..yaay.

[Rich_NYS]

Cool. I'd still bet maybe one of the cables or the lambda is worn a bit and slips...but if its working..yaay.

I'm pretty sure I had the inner part of the upper cable not properly seated into the dingus that's in the Lambda counter.

How's yer mean machine doin'?

[Lwanmtr]

Mine is kinda stalled at the moment...lol

[powerline84]

Mine is kinda stalled at the moment...lol

Sometimes you gotta take a break :-) lol

[Rich_NYS]

Below zero outside today, I ran my car for about an hour (in my garage) and drained the oil.

Also removed the Hervey exhaust, preparing for sale.

[Rich_NYS]

I'm finally returning to my car. I cleaned up my home renovation mess in the garage yesterday, and uncovered my car last night.

After 20 long months, I'm back to the job of replacing the exhaust and will soon have it back on the road.

I took an undercarriage pic to give myself a mental boost:

60500

[Mark D]

Looks better than new! :nana2:

[Lwanmtr]

Looks good :)

[Ron]

Looks like the slacker has been goofing off with the Today gang too much to me...

[Rich_NYS]

Looks better than new! :nana2:


Looks good :)

Thanks!




Looks like the slacker has been goofing off with the Today gang too much to me...


LOL....I've been slacking onto a PITA kitchen/living room/hallway renovation...ugh! Besides, Steve threatened to kick me off his forum if I didn't hang with those thugs this past weekend!



Side note: which side goes toward the engine?

60501

[Ron]

LOL....I've been slacking onto a PITA kitchen/living room/hallway renovation...ugh! Besides, Steve threatened to kick me off his forum if I didn't hang with those thugs this past weekend!

Side note: which side goes toward the engine?

60501

I'm not familiar with those gaskets, but they should be marked if it mattered.

FWIW- Beaded exhaust gaskets usually have the bead against the manifold. Thinking is the head is most likely to be flatter, so it gets the smooth side, and, the bead will compensate for flaws in the manifold.
I should mention that Standard exhaust gaskets have a smooth metallic side and a relatively rough material on the other side. They go the other way around (smooth to manifold). Thinking is the smooth side allows for movement due to heat expansion.

I'd call the vendor, especially if you are using headers instead.

[Rich_NYS]

I'm not familiar with those gaskets, but they should be marked if it mattered.

FWIW- Beaded exhaust gaskets usually have the bead against the manifold. Thinking is the head is most likely to be flatter, so it gets the smooth side, and, the bead will compensate for flaws in the manifold.
I should mention that Standard exhaust gaskets have a smooth metallic side and a relatively rough material on the other side. They go the other way around (smooth to manifold). Thinking is the smooth side allows for movement due to heat expansion.

I'd call the vendor, especially if you are using headers instead.

Thanks Ron, these are the coveted "Volvo one-piece" gaskets....I didn't get them from a vendor.

[Rich_NYS]

After 20 months of sitting under a cover in my garage, I finally installed my new UK exhaust last weekend and started the car.

No free time all this week, but this weekend looks promising to make a few adjustments at the rear fascia and go for a short drive. I intend to make a video of the new exhaust, it sounds really good. It's louder than stock, but quieter than DPI and Hervey's Magnaflow.

If all goes well, I'll soon be securing the roofbox, adjusting the doors, and officially enjoying the driving season.

A/C will soon be my next project.

[Rich_NYS]

Today I finished installing my exhaust brackets, and replaced the NGK plugs with Denso's.

I'm back on the road! One thing I can say for sure: either the plugs, the exhaust, or both has improved my performance. The car has a lot more power, and totally has more HP than my previous stock auto....hands down.

I also adjusted the striker pins. I don't know why I waited so long to do that, 5 minutes of work has changed my life! The doors close much nicer with no "cha-chunk" sound.

As much as I hate to put it back in the garage, I really need to secure the roofbox, so this week I'll start on that project.

Soon thereafter I'll begin reinstalling the A/C and working down the list of upgrade parts I've been stockpiling.

[Rich_NYS]

My passenger window intermittently won't go up. The car has been sitting for almost 2 years, so maybe it's the switch but my window motors are OEM.

It's been a long time since I've been into the window switches and I forgot which pins to jumper to bypass the switch. I'll probably replace the motors anyway, but really should determine if the switch is OK.

[JETS 81 DMC]

My passenger window intermittently won't go up. The car has been sitting for almost 2 years, so maybe it's the switch but my window motors are OEM.

It's been a long time since I've been into the window switches and I forgot which pins to jumper to bypass the switch. I'll probably replace the motors anyway, but really should determine if the switch is OK.

Congrats on getting you DMC back on the ground and on the road. :cheers:

Here is a link that Ron posted on how to jumper the window switches. See post #9 for the updated diagram.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?17572-Replacing-Window-Switches

[Rich_NYS]

Thanks Mr. Jim!

[Rich_NYS]

I started to work on my non-functioning wipers today. The fuse was blown, so I replaced it and tried the wipers.

Not 100% certain, but I think I heard a clicking noise in the column....now my horn and hazard lights don't work (as well as the wipers.)

Both fuses are still good, and the connections to the wiper control module on the column appear to be good.

I'll review the wiring schematic and continue diagnosing, but also interested in troubleshooting tips.

Thanks!

[Lwanmtr]

If its the original column controls, they may need replaced, like mine did. Maybe use a meter to check it.

[Rich_NYS]

I have my torsion bars and headliner out, and started cleaning the inside on my roofbox. I made a few videos of the roofbox interior...I'll work on posting them.

I'm glad I went to the DMA event where Marc Levy showed me the roofbox separation on my car. When I had one torsion bar removed, it really lifted and was super obvious.


What else should I do while I'm in there with the torsion bars removed?

I don't want to reassemble everything & find out later I should've changed/sealed/painted/rewired something. I seem to have a real talent for "going back in" after I have things reassembled.

[Ron]

I started to work on my non-functioning wipers today. The fuse was blown, so I replaced it and tried the wipers.

Not 100% certain, but I think I heard a clicking noise in the column....now my horn and hazard lights don't work (as well as the wipers.)

Both fuses are still good, and the connections to the wiper control module on the column appear to be good.

I'll review the wiring schematic and continue diagnosing, but also interested in troubleshooting tips.

Thanks!


I think you mentioned that you didn't have power at the control switch. Check the other plugs/junctions you can get to to narrow it down.

60758

[Rich_NYS]

Interior roofbox inspection prior to cleaning:


https://youtu.be/1Owr393x7jM

[Rich_NYS]

Finished cleaning out the roof box, and drilled out the rivet heads to remove the roof seals.
I read a few posts about the worries of drilling the rivets. My method was to use a drill bit 2x the size of the head. I held pressure toward the drill with a flat bar behind he seal retainer. I drilled only enough needed to "pop" the retaining strip over the drilled head. Notice some of the head is still on the rivet.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190724/1b712c18d22ec872b51597e24f0959b1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190724/4c5810cfa10c6b0f9dc29c0945cb2e82.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190724/4caeb147ad2e4629922bd615c23c60cf.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190724/cf7c24f769fcaf4a344e49689acd0263.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190724/7bd97d3fcbc1e727ad8245e6e411e338.jpg

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[DMCMW Dave]

Notice some of the head is still on the rivet.k

Now take a Dremel cutoff wheel and cut the rest of the rivets off flush with the stainless. The remaining parts will rattle around in the door for a while.

[Rich_NYS]

Now take a Dremel cutoff wheel and cut the rest of the rivets off flush with the stainless. The remaining parts will rattle around in the door for a while.

Thanks Dave, if I'm feeling up to another door headliner removal I might try to slide a piece of tape behind the rivets before cutting them off.

How about the black RTV in that area? I want to clean, paint, reseal...etc. I'd like to "redo" the RTV application, is it just black RTV...nothing special?

[Lwanmtr]

Love those colonial era struts..they can double as a bridge :)

[DMCMW Dave]

I'd like to "redo" the RTV application, is it just black RTV...nothing special?

Black RTV is fine. Windshield Urethane if you are a glutton for punishment.

[powerline84]

Looking good man. Very rewarding job once everything is resealed and painted it looks great

[Rich_NYS]

Looking good man. Very rewarding job once everything is resealed and painted it looks great

Thanks, tonight I used the spray you gave me....I'm going to make a video after it dries. I'm really liking these small projects that don't keep the car off the road for a long time, I should have this completed on Saturday.

But, things sure do snowball with "while you're in there" stuff. I went from: securing the roofbox, to: replacing the roof seals, the outer seals, cleaning & painting, replacing dome lights, and now the windshield trim -lol

[Rich_NYS]

Now take a Dremel cutoff wheel and cut the rest of the rivets off flush with the stainless. The remaining parts will rattle around in the door for a while.Let the rattling begin! lolhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190725/d55d5c31cc5feca06f15ef309de843d3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190725/aa41b09846962f2da066f3d8866794f7.jpg

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[Rich_NYS]

Roof box is secured and I adjusted the doors with Grady struts...very nice dampening effect at the top.

I removed old silicone to paint & reseal. The infill panel was sealed to where it meets the underbody, I'm wondering if that was overkill, or should I reseal as it was?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190728/999fefdaa9866e7219971fc4368b5fdb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190728/e04789702a14a885dce5dfd8ce8de8fe.jpg

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[DMC-81]

Roof box is secured and I adjusted the doors with Grady struts...very nice dampening effect at the top.

I removed old silicone to paint & reseal. The infill panel was sealed to where it meets the underbody, I'm wondering if that was overkill, or should I reseal as it was?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190728/999fefdaa9866e7219971fc4368b5fdb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190728/e04789702a14a885dce5dfd8ce8de8fe.jpg

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Nice job! I would re-seal the infill panel as it was.

[Rich_NYS]

Nice job! I would re-seal the infill panel as it was.

Good call...last night & tonight I removed the infill panels (to replace the lower strut mount plates) and saw why the sealer is necessary: the rivet holes.

I have everything reassembled and will begin resealing this week. Replacing my bent mounts made a noticeable difference!

[Rich_NYS]

Let the rattling begin! lol

I changed my mind about the rivet pieces in the door; I used a shop-vac followed by a long piece of very sticky aluminum tape folded lengthwise in thirds. It was like using sheet metal fly paper....worked great.



I also reinstalled the windshield trim and decided to change my usual MO of doing everything I can "while in there."

The summer is half gone and my car sat for almost 2 weeks. My mission this year is to put miles on my car, so I'm going to put everything back together and will "go back in" another time.

Securing the roof box and door adjustment snowballed into: inspect/clean/paint the roofbox interior, roof seals, outer seals, lower door seals, lower strut mount brackets, strip & paint windshield trim, new dome lights, repaint/reseal everything I encounter, replace screws...etc.

As much I like the easy small projects and work efficiently & meticulously, I need to prioritize drive time during the very short NYS driving season.

So....I'll be hitting the road asap with no roof seals, no outer seals, things not re-silicone-sealed & re-painted, and no headliner. I'll stay out of the rain and finish things a little at a time instead of all at once so I can enjoy driving the car.

[Rich_NYS]

Last night I fixed a vacuum leak, tonight I tuned the carb and went for a drive....runs great and plenty of HP.

[Rich_NYS]

I need to connect another "lighter socket" to power a dash cam...where can I connect to existing wiring without making a mess?

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[Lwanmtr]

Id go off the radio power, if you're in the mood to pull the center console, that is.

[Rich_NYS]

I had my car up on stands today, checking my transfer case fluid and looking for the source of a brake noise (I've since determined I think I need anti-rattle clips.)

I noticed the bolts for the axle shaft were all loose....some were coming out. I had replaced them with allen head bolts from McMaster. I know others have done this as well, but haven't heard of an issue. I don't have lock washers on them, but the stock bolts didn't either. Does anyone here have the allen head type, and did you install lock washers?

[Mark D]

I had my car up on stands today, checking my transfer case fluid and looking for the source of a brake noise (I've since determined I think I need anti-rattle clips.)

I noticed the bolts for the axle shaft were all loose....some were coming out. I had replaced them with allen head bolts from McMaster. I know others have done this as well, but haven't heard of an issue. I don't have lock washers on them, but the stock bolts didn't either. Does anyone here have the allen head type, and did you install lock washers?

I think you sent me a set of allen head bolts as well since you had extra during your rebuild. I haven't gotten around to installing them...

In general, split lock washers do almost nothing to prevent fasteners from loosening up so I wouldn't bother with those. In this case I'd probably go with some blue loctite instead.

If I'm remembering correctly the allen head bolts were phosphate and oil coated which may have contributed the the bolts loosening up. Before you reinstall them you could hit them with a shot of brake parts cleaner to remove the oil. If you don't want them to rust over you can spray just the heads with some matte finish black paint to keep them looking nice.

[Rich_NYS]

I think you sent me a set of allen head bolts as well since you had extra during your rebuild. I haven't gotten around to installing them...

In general, split lock washers do almost nothing to prevent fasteners from loosening up so I wouldn't bother with those. In this case I'd probably go with some blue loctite instead.

If I'm remembering correctly the allen head bolts were phosphate and oil coated which may have contributed the the bolts loosening up. Before you reinstall them you could hit them with a shot of brake parts cleaner to remove the oil. If you don't want them to rust over you can spray just the heads with some matte finish black paint to keep them looking nice.


Thanks Mark, I totally forgot I sent those...lol.

I think you're right on with that assessment, I'm going back in for a "do-over" soon.

[Ron]

In general, split lock washers do almost nothing to prevent fasteners from loosening up so I wouldn't bother with those. In this case I'd probably go with some blue loctite instead.
+1 on the Loctite

Actually, split lock washers don't act like flat washers. Flat washers are used to evenly distribute the tightening force (usually over an area greater than the nut or bolt head)...or for spacing. Split lock washers are used to create tension to prevent loosening due to vibrations. Note they spiral in the opposite direction of the threads for a better bite to prevent turning too. (Toothed lock washers are all about the bite...)
Make sure you use washers of the same grade as the nut/bolt. OEM

=======

Rich needs to quit re-engineering and concentrate his Dwi Huryeo Chagi or burning the roads up. :deviltail:

Do you guys hear some kind of echo in here? :)

[Bitsyncmaster]

I wonder if that is purpose of the metal plates. Maybe they are a softer material so the split lock washer can bit into it. I did see when I removed mine the plates did have the bite of the lock washer so I flipped them over when I installed the new bolts.

[Ron]

Yes. I mentioned that on the other site when Rich mentioned it. Sometimes they are used to distribute the tightening force over a greater area (and convenience over several flat washers etc.), but mostly where the other metal is too soft OR to hard. They want them to bite, in the opposite direction of the threads....

[Rich_NYS]

~snip~

Rich needs to quit re-engineering and concentrate his Dwi Huryeo Chagi or [/COLOR]burning the roads up. :deviltail:

Do you guys hear some kind of echo in here? :)

I just got back from burnin' up some roads.

I went for a test drive tonight after installing anti-vibration Borgeson joints.

I'm downloading my dash cam videos now; just as I got to my street, a fox pup ran out in front of me. It's about the size of a rabbit.

[Rich_NYS]

This past week the temps where I live were below zero, this weekend it's 50+ degrees, next week forecasted temps are double-digits below zero. I started 4728 and also uncovered it to let it "breathe" a while.

This winter I'm making a to-do list of things I want to complete before listing it for sale.

I came inside for a coffee break, then headed to the garage to continue with 4519's fuel system in preparation for "first fire."

[Lwanmtr]

They say the first fire is the most special of all.

[Jonathan]

I need to connect another "lighter socket" to power a dash cam...where can I connect to existing wiring without making a mess?

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Hey Rich, did you ever get an answer on this?

I was just catching-up on a few threads and saw it. Someone else recently asked about whether anyone was still doing forum stuff on here. There's likely a bunch of different, individual reasons why, but yea, I think it has gotten quiet here. And not just recently.

Anywho, have a look at the second pic in this post: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?10336-Assorted-Helpful-Technical-Photos&p=165448&viewfull=1#post165448

Your manual trans car will still have the wiring to power the little bulb that's lights up the PRND21 thing on the automatics. We all got the same wiring harness, so in a manual trans car, that powered wire will just be wrapped up and tucked off to the side. That's the one I would use if I were you for an extra accessories outlet.

[Rich_NYS]

Thanks Jonathan, great info!

I bought something similar to this:

https://www.ebay.com/i/202848010921?chn=ps&var=503015445309&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=503015445309_202848010921&targetid=474173460149&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=9004997&campaignid=6470049731&mkgroupid=79220282042&rlsatarget=pla-474173460149&abcId=1141176&merchantid=114989744&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1r-jn8H-5gIVnINaBR1y3w8SEAsYEyABEgI11_D_BwE

I do like the idea of using that wire....I'm sure I'll do something with it in the future.

[Rich_NYS]

I'm going to start organizing the to-do list I have for 4728. There are some items I want to complete before listing for sale, so I'm hoping to have time to do that while I continue to drive it this season.

I'm also trying to decide whether or not to consider the carb conversion. I can convert it back if necessary, but I've also been seeing more interest in carb conversions so I really don't know if it matters on a running/driving DeLorean. If a potential buyer comes for a test-drive, I can also have them drive 4519 for comparison. 4728 carbed with headers can out-perform [stock] 4519 all day.

I was hoping to take my time working on 4519 while driving 4728, but my wife is pumping my ego saying she knows I can accomplish the mission this year.....maybe she really wants to park her car in the garage -lol.

[Rich_NYS]

I finally swapped my intake & carb. From: Byrne modified manifold & 2150, to: Peugeot & 2100.

Runs nice! I'm seriously considering swapping the K-Jet from 4519 before selling 4728.

I'm going to side-by-side compare 4519 K-Jet & DPI exhaust with 4728 & UK exhaust, then go from there.

When I sell 4728, the buyer will have options...