VIN 4728 Running Resto

[Rich_NYS]

Posting my resto blog to both forums, 'cause sometimes I feel like a nut...sometimes I don't!

VIN 4728 arrived on 3-27-15. It stayed in my driveway until 5-1-15 while waiting for VIN 10372 to be picked up and transported to it's new owner (*sniff*.)

While parked in the driveway, I cleaned the exterior, changed the oil, and replaced the choke coil (it has a carb conversion....might keep it, go back to stock, or engine swap.) The car would start, run, and drive, but developed an awful rapping noise under the passenger side valve cover. For the rest of the time that it was parked in my driveway I avoided starting it, only cleaned & assessed it.

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I learned a lot about owning/restoring a DeLorean in the year that I owned 10372, and learned the approach that works for me. I make a spreadsheet to track costs, progress, and maintain a prioritized to-do list. For 4728 I have 3 lists I'll work on simultaneously to reach my goal of having it on the road for short drives before snow season this year:

Get it safely running/driving

Fuel System
Carburetor adjustment/fine tune running
Valve adjustment
Replace Cooling System Hoses
Rebuild Calipers
Replace Master Brake Cylinder
Replace Belts
Replace Plug Wires
Replace Oil Sender
Check all grounding points following Bill's diagram
Exhaust Manifold Gasket
Oil change

Cosmetics to stay motivated

Repair/Paint Rear Facsia
Paint Sunshade Louvre, Black Trim & Side Mirrors
Clean/Shampoo Carpets, detail interior
Front & Rear Headliners
Convex Side Mirrors
Restore Seats
Door Seals
Steering Column Bushing
LED's
Clean & Paint Frame and Closing Plate
Modify pull-straps to later VIN style
Replace Cargo Net Bungee


While I'm in there

Brake Booster clean & paint
Dynamat
Fix Tail Lights
Run speaker wire for future use


Since I want all items checked off before the car leaves my garage, my approach is to disassemble everything necessary and place part orders as I determine what I need. I'll have what I need on hand for multiple projects, so if I get stuck needing something for one project I can hop to a different project while waiting for additional parts/materials (or paint to dry.)

Here's the current status:

-Car on stands
-All wheels off
-Driver's side front caliper removed (frozen piston.)
-Closing plate removed
-Rear fascia removed & disassembled
-Headliners removed
-Seats removed
-Passenger side valve cover removed
-Interior vacuumed
-Parts on hand, part orders pending

[Rich_NYS]

Removing the seats is one of my favorite "first" things to do. Something about it feels especially productive and "familiarizing" to me.

The seats are in decent condition, these pics don't show it well but there are cracks and a small tear. I'll get better pics when I post before/after shots. I'm planning to restore them for now, then probably will replace them someday(a few years from now.)

I contacted Leatherique; they have the OEM grey dye, and a repair kit for fixing cracks.

I'm also going to re-paint the adjustment bars, any suggestions on a close paint match are very much appreciated.


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[Jonathan]

Hey man, nice to see some pics and whatnot on your new car. One forum is all the nuts I can handle, lol.

Nice angle on the pic with your driver's seat removed. Your driver's seat belt receptacle end made me realize something likely not right on my car. My seatbelt buzzer wire doesn't go through the hole and behind the carpet as it does in your pic. Mine stays on the outside of the carpet and then meets up with the harness end of the wire somewhere behind the seats and under the parcel shelf, I like the through the hole idea much better as that wire can get pinched in the seat tracks at times. Thanks for the addition to my to-do list, lol!

[Rich_NYS]

Hey man, nice to see some pics and whatnot on your new car. One forum is all the nuts I can handle, lol.

Hahaha!

[Rich_NYS]

The headliner material is disintegrated as much as I'd expect it can be. The headliner attachment things came off with the with the headliner & visors attached. They appear to be salvageable, so I think I can rivet them back on for re-use.

I removed the material from the boards, gave the boards a once-over with a shop-vac and put them up for now. I'll likely return to the headliners after I have the car driveable. I plan to clean them up and would like to coat them with fiberglass.

Anybody have tips on cleaning them? They look like something that can fall apart if I use the wrong type of stuff on them.

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[Rich_NYS]

The rear fascia looks like hell. The paint is peeled (I think it was parked under a tree and sap dripped on it.) and there's a poor quality repair from [what appears to be] a fender-bender. I'm going to repair the crack and repaint the fascia. The backing panel has a fiberglass repair that appears to have been done without removing it from the car; it doesn't look like it affected the cosmetics, but I might redo it anyway.

Removing it was easy and all the studs are in very good condition; nothing is rusted or broken-off.

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[Rich_NYS]

The master brake cylinder appears to have been leaking badly; epoxy is peeled off the closing plate and surrounding frame area. So far, I'm only finding surface rust. I'm going to use an angle grinder with a flap wheel to prep, then POR-15 and topcoat with smoke grey.

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[Henrik]

The master brake cylinder appears to have been leaking badly;

Another one of those "while you're in there": Go ahead and drop the tank too. You will find that the brake fluid has done all sorts of damage to the frame below the master brake cylinder. No big deal to fix but it takes a while. Yes, POR-15 is great for this. I used the grey one; it dries hard as glass! You obviously want to replace the master brake cylinder before you do this.

[Rich_NYS]

I've had a rapping noise under the passenger side valve cover since I got the car. Tonight I adjusted the valves, but the noise is still there. It might be somewhat improved, but definitely still there.

Here's a video (for sound) before I did any work:


https://www.dropbox.com/s/o3ftby367251zf6/4-1-15%20Engine%20Noise.AVI?dl=0

I didn't think to make another video for comparison tonight. I have the valve cover off again & plugs out to double-check the valve adjustment, so I won't get a chance for a few days to record.

Any thoughts on that noise?

[DMCMW Dave]

I've had a rapping noise under the passenger side valve cover since I got the car. Tonight I adjusted the valves, but the noise is still there. It might be somewhat improved, but definitely still there.

Any thoughts on that noise?

One valve way out of adjustment. Or a bad camshaft/rocker arm. Or both.

When you adjusted the valves did you find anything way out?

Inspect the cam lobes looking for anything that looks scored or excessively worn. You can also back the valve adjusters all the way out and lift the rockers off the base of the cam lobes in turn. Inspect that riding surface of the rocker arms using a dental mirror, if you find one that looks concave in the center rather than smoothly convex, you've found the culprit which typically means you need to replace the bad rocker arm(s) and the camshaft.

Once the face hardening of the rocker arm is compromised, it will continue to wear quickly. If it's concave enough to see it, it will be noisy even if the clearances are correct.

Not an insignificant job BTW. This job implies that you are removing the head unless you pull the engine out of the car. Even in that case you're about to discover that the rocker arm shaft is held in place by the head bolts, and if you were to pull the engine and remove the cam, you need the special tool to hold the cam gear in place or you have to remove the timing cover as well.

Root cause on this is typically someone forgetting to change the oil for, oh, say, decades, OR running the car with a stuck wide open fuel distributor, flooding the oil sump with gasoline, turning the oil into about 0W0 weight. This in turn wipes a cam lobe or two. How did the insides of the engine look? If it looks gunked up that's the oil change issue, if it's remarkably clean then it's the fuel dilution theory.

If you find a bad cam, since that car is carbureted, I'd bet money that's what happened before they did the carb conversion.
Check all the rocker arms.

[Rich_NYS]

One valve way out of adjustment. Or a bad camshaft/rocker arm. Or both.

When you adjusted the valves did you find anything way out?

Yes, and I thought that I had found the issue. I do believe it improved after adjusting, so I think that it makes sense there could be an issue as you described (that was slightly improved with adjustment.)



Inspect the cam lobes looking for anything that looks scored or excessively worn. You can also back the valve adjusters all the way out and lift the rockers off the base of the cam lobes in turn. Inspect that riding surface of the rocker arms using a dental mirror, if you find one that looks concave in the center rather than smoothly convex, you've found the culprit which typically means you need to replace the bad rocker arm(s) and the camshaft.

This will be my next step....thanks for the tip.



Not an insignificant job BTW. This job implies that you are removing the head unless you pull the engine out of the car. Even in that case you're about to discover that the rocker arm shaft is held in place by the head bolts, and if you were to pull the engine and remove the cam, you need the special tool to hold the cam gear in place or you have to remove the timing cover as well.

Sounds great, I can't wait (ugh!) I see the rocker arm shaft is held by the head bolts, I can't just unbolt it and replace what is needed? (The engine is staying in the car.)




Root cause on this is typically someone forgetting to change the oil for, oh, say, decades, OR running the car with a stuck wide open fuel distributor, flooding the oil sump with gasoline, turning the oil into about 0W0 weight. This in turn wipes a cam lobe or two. How did the insides of the engine look? If it looks gunked up that's the oil change issue, if it's remarkably clean then it's the fuel dilution theory.

If you find a bad cam, since that car is carbureted, I'd bet money that's what happened before they did the carb conversion.
Check all the rocker arms.

The engine looked a bit gunked up, but also had been flooded prior to me changing the oil, so I think it was running the 0W0 weight you mentioned (I'm guessing there was ~1 quart of fuel in the oil.) There was no noise when Steve was there, or in the test drive video I have from the week before I bought it. I'm guessing it was flooded and severely diluted the already crappy oil just before I got it.

I have a bad feeling it's a rocker arm/cam issue.

Thanks Dave....very much appreciated.

[skill]

Removing the seats is one of my favorite "first" things to do. Something about it feels especially productive and "familiarizing" to me.

The seats are in decent condition, these pics don't show it well but there are cracks and a small tear. I'll get better pics when I post before/after shots. I'm planning to restore them for now, then probably will replace them someday(a few years from now.)

I contacted Leatherique; they have the OEM grey dye, and a repair kit for fixing cracks.

I'm also going to re-paint the adjustment bars, any suggestions on a close paint match are very much appreciated.


http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=34591&stc=1 http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=34592&stc=1 http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=34593&stc=1 http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=34594&stc=1 http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=34595&stc=1 http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=34596&stc=1 http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=34597&stc=1

Sup Rich!

Absolutely, my share on exp is to use Krylon's Satin Black (MAXX) rattle can that can be found at Walmart. I sprayed the rails with about 5 coats with 1-2 hours per coat (a full day) on a nice sunny day. Sand them down with 220 grit and if rusted or pitted sand them down with 150 and smooth them back up-to 220 to 320 grit. Coat and recoat. Let them hang freely using metal clothes hangers. Clean with acetone and spray. Take your time with these rails and they will come out great. The rails will end up smooth and nice.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=34636&stc=1

If you end up redoing/ reupholstering the seats and removing I have a thread on here on how to use my double Zip-Tie technique if in case you can not reuse your original witch-hat tie downs for your seat covers! - bri

[skill]

Double Zip Tie seat cover technique, I found the thread I gave input on; http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?11690-DIY-seat-cover-install

gl!

[Rich_NYS]

Sup Rich!

Absolutely, my share on exp is to use Krylon's Satin Black (MAXX) rattle can that can be found at Walmart. I sprayed the rails with about 5 coats with 1-2 hours per coat (a full day) on a nice sunny day. Sand them down with 220 grit and if rusted or pitted sand them down with 150 and smooth them back up-to 220 to 320 grit. Coat and recoat. Let them hang freely using metal clothes hangers. Clean with acetone and spray. Take your time with these rails and they will come out great. The rails will end up smooth and nice.

Excellent info, exactly what I'm looking for...thanks Brian!


Double Zip Tie seat cover technique, I found the thread I gave input on; http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?11690-DIY-seat-cover-install

gl!

Looks good, when I did the seats on my first DeLorean last year I did something similar....great minds, eh? :biggrin:

[skill]

Excellent info, exactly what I'm looking for...thanks Brian!



Looks good, when I did the seats on my first DeLorean last year I did something similar....great minds, eh? :biggrin:

from the East Coast to the West Coast ~ livin' the dream!

[Rich_NYS]

Well, the summer is officially winding down and I've done very little with my car so far (aside from disassembly and compiling parts & tools.)

The good news is, my non-Delorean related priorities are also winding down so I expect to be dedicated to my restoration work very soon. Unfortunately, most of my free time becomes available during the cold NY winters so I'm planning to get some heat in my small garage this year so I won't be deterred when temps are below freezing.

I'm looking at this as an option: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200649343_200649343?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Heaters,%20Stoves%20%2B%20Fireplaces%20 %3E%20Dual-Fuel:%20Gas%20%2B%20Propane%20Heaters&utm_campaign=ProCom&utm_content=49195&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=49195&gclid=COieg7jLmMgCFVaRHwodsoMNjw

Anybody here have any experience with this type of unit? Seems like a good choice for heating a garage.

[Rich_NYS]

So far this weekend things have gone according to plan and I was able to work on my car:

-Took apart both seats and brought them into my basement where I'll set up on a table in a warm room. I have a Leatherique kit with everything to clean, recondition, fill cracks, and dye.

-Sprayed various nuts/bolts/studs with penetrating spray. Not much corrosion anywhere, but since I'll be removing the steering shaft, exhaust manifolds & Y-Pipe, I'm going to soak those.

-Put a wrench on the rearmost driver's side exhaust manifold nut, it actually moved without heat....maybe that's a sign of things to come.

-Began removing the coolant pipes, I'm going to take the tank out so I can thoroughly address the peeled epoxy mess & re-paint those areas of the frame. So far, the frame looks solid! Just needs to be cleaned & painted....Steve will one day be envious of this car.

-Finally drained the gas tank, yo! It wasn't as bad as I originally thought; what looked like a layer of thick, black sludge was actually not-so-thick black stuff (floating on water?) in 2-3 inches of gas. That job just got a whole lot easier! It appears that a rinse & wipe will be all that's needed to clean this tank.

Question: what do I do with 2 gallons of shitty, watery gas?


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Siphon hose w/black gunk:
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[Rich_NYS]

I only worked a few hours each day on my car, but it was a productive weekend: today I removed the gas tank to expose the areas of the frame epoxy damaged by brake fluid. All good news; the gas tank isn't filled with goop, and the frame is solid....just needs cleaning & painting.

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[Rich_NYS]

The master brake cylinder appears to have been leaking badly; epoxy is peeled off the closing plate and surrounding frame area. So far, I'm only finding surface rust. I'm going to use an angle grinder with a flap wheel to prep, then POR-15 and topcoat with smoke grey.

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I want to drill holes in my closing plate, anybody here do this & have pics/tips to share?






Another one of those "while you're in there": Go ahead and drop the tank too. You will find that the brake fluid has done all sorts of damage to the frame below the master brake cylinder. No big deal to fix but it takes a while. Yes, POR-15 is great for this. I used the grey one; it dries hard as glass! You obviously want to replace the master brake cylinder before you do this.


I took my tank out recently; I'm happy to report the frame is SOLID, just needs to be cleaned & painted. I'll also be replacing the master cylinder.

Good pics in my post above.

[Rich_NYS]

Tonite:

-Removed the passenger side caliper.
-Removed the master brake cylinder.
-Removed the brake booster.
-Began cleaning the closing plate for painting.
-First round of Leatherique revujenator & cleaner on one of the seats finished, then another round two of rejuvenator (not inmpressed yet.)


I'm also continuing to spray the exhaust manifold nuts; I'm going to fix the exhaust leak before continuing to diagnose the tapping noise under the passenger side valve cover.


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[Rich_NYS]

There's peeled epoxy partway down the center frame rail where the A/C hoses are. I'd like to clean & paint those areas but it's pretty tight working in there.

Any thoughts? I'm half-considering removing the A/C hoses, but at a glance that looks like it could be a PITA.

[Rich_NYS]

I'm half-considering removing the A/C hoses, but at a glance that looks like it could be a PITA.

I got a good look at the hoses, I totally don't want to pull them out "from end to end." NightFlyer Josh mentioned I might be able to move the tub a bit without a total frame-off, anybody here have any luck with something like that? I currently have the car on jackstands at the lift points, I'm wondering if I should try loosening the body bolts in the interior & see if things "open up" a bit.

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[DMCMW Dave]

I got a good look at the hoses, I totally don't want to pull them out "from end to end." NightFlyer Josh mentioned I might be able to move the tub a bit without a total frame-off, anybody here have any luck with something like that? I currently have the car on jackstands at the lift points, I'm wondering if I should try loosening the body bolts in the interior & see if things "open up" a bit.


Removing them is easy. Cut off one end. If you go to the trouble of removing them, don't put the old ones back in.

It's putting them back in that's the trick. But yes, they can be installed (with some effort) without taking the body off the frame.

[Rich_NYS]

Removing them is easy. Cut off one end. If you go to the trouble of removing them, don't put the old ones back in.

It's putting them back in that's the trick. But yes, they can be installed (with some effort) without taking the body off the frame.

Thanks Dave,

I was hoping to just get them out of the way enough to clean the peeled epoxy from that area. If absolutely necessary I'll pull 'em out; I'd need to get a special tool to put the ends on the new hose, right?

BTW, my frame is solid all the way....just peeled epoxy. :thumbup:


Also BTW, I sidelined diagnosing that tapping noise. I'm soaking the manifold stud nuts...going to silence the exhaust noise so I only have one noise when trying to troubleshoot it.

[Rich_NYS]

Tonight I got a closer look at the A/C hoses; I'm going to think on it for a few days, then decide what to do.

The update on my project that I feel is highly relevant (possibly most relevant) is:

I'm mostly caught up on homeowner responsibilities, I have a decent amount of momentum going, and I'm feeling exceptionally well-motivated. I've been on a pretty good schedule, and have been able to get in a few days a week (working on my car.)

-After looking closer at the A/C hoses, I removed the exhaust system in preparation for the exhaust manifold gasket job. I've been spraying the studs frequently, and now the driver's side is very well exposed so I can go at it with a torch.

-I also removed the steering shaft; preparing for a new steering column bushing and rack removal.


I'm kinda "all over the place" with this project, but I like to have several things going at once....it keeps me from "burning out," and I sty motivated with the small successes of progress made on multiple items. I'd normally consider it inefficient, but the motivation factor seems to have a bigger ROI on the back end.

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[Rich_NYS]

Got the driver's side exhaust manifold off tonight; it had previously been removed, so I was able to get the studs out without using a torch (they all came out with the nuts.)
Hopefully the passenger side will come apart easily too, but I'm not yet sure if it's been apart before.

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I also removed the A/C hoses so I could better access the frame to remove the peeled epoxy.

[Rich_NYS]

I also removed the A/C hoses so I could better access the frame to remove the peeled epoxy.

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[Lwanmtr]

Making good progress it seems. You're going a little deeper than me in restoration. Some things I know I'll have done at DMCNW, just
cause I'm not real confident in my mechanicness...hehe.

[Rich_NYS]

Making good progress it seems. You're going a little deeper than me in restoration. Some things I know I'll have done at DMCNW, just
cause I'm not real confident in my mechanicness...hehe.

Thanks, hopefully I'll be able to maintain the momentum through the Winter and be ready to roll in the Spring.

When I bought my first DeLorean in '13, I was the same as you but after working on several different smaller projects I developed more confidence. You're fortunate to have DMC backup nearby....enjoy!

[Rich_NYS]

This morning I finished removing the passenger side manifold.

Yesterday I was easily able to remove all but one stud & one stud w/nut without heat, this morning I used a MAPP gas torch on the nut and was able to remove it. I really lucked out; the manifolds have obviously been off so almost all the studs easily came out (without heat.)

I have two studs to remove; since I know they've likely been out before, I'll let them soak and try them with a double-nut. If this was a first time removal, I would get a stud extractor & not take chances.

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[Rich_NYS]

Got one of them out with a double-nut, the other is being stubborn. I heated it a little, then sprayed it while hot...gonna let it soak.

If it gives any further resistance, I'll get an extractor.

[Lwanmtr]

Try yelling at it or begging it to come loose.

[Lou and "Boo"]

Try yelling at it or begging it to come loose.


Always worked for me!

[Lou and "Boo"]

Try yelling at it or begging it to come loose.


Always worked for me!

Whatever you do DO NOT use a harbor freight screw extractor. They ALWAYS break off in the bolt, making things more difficult and aggravating.

[Lou and "Boo"]

Sorry for that weird double post.

[Rich_NYS]

Tonight I removed my steering rack and a brake line; I wanted better access to prep the frame for painting the peeled-epoxy areas, and need to rebuild the rack anyway.

I also finished prepping the closing plate and planning to drill drain holes in it, anybody have suggestions on size & locations?

Also a few misc. items: tried unsuccessfully to remove the last exhaust manifold stud, gently tried the y-pipe bolts, prepped for steering column bushing replacement, replaced plug wires, and removed some PO wiring mods.


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[Rich_NYS]

Today I borrowed an inspection camera from a friend, I'm going to look down inside the cylinders on the passenger side where I heard that tapping noise.
I want to make sure something (like a screw) didn't get sucked down in there.

[Rich_NYS]

Today I borrowed an inspection camera from a friend, I'm going to look down inside the cylinders on the passenger side where I heard that tapping noise.
I want to make sure something (like a screw) didn't get sucked down in there.

aaaand......it doesn't fit in the spark plug hole.

[Lwanmtr]

Ouch. See if there are any chipmunks in the area you can hire to climb in there and root around?

[Mark D]

Do you still have the exhaust manifolds removed? You may be able to rotate the engine by hand to open the exhaust valve in the cylinder you're interested in and peek in with the camera that way.

[Rich_NYS]

Do you still have the exhaust manifolds removed? You may be able to rotate the engine by hand to open the exhaust valve in the cylinder you're interested in and peek in with the camera that way.

Yes, still removed. Last night I looked in there with the camera just for fun, but didn't think to try this...thanks!

[Rich_NYS]

Today I continued prepping my frame. I used a wire wheel, flap wheel, sander, and phosphoric acid.

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I also did a "partial frame-off" to access the area of the frame rail I haven't been able to reach (where the A/C hoses are.)

-I kept jack stands at all 4 lift points.
-Added jack stands to the frame in the rear (at the engine cradle.)
-Supported the front of the frame with a jack.
-Removed all but the 4 rearmost body bolts.
-Slowly lowered the front of the frame a few inches.

The gap between the underbody & frame rail opened just enough so I could clean out the peeled epoxy. I wasn't able to feather the edge of the good epoxy, but I'll be able to do a good job coating it w/POR-15 and a topcoat. I didn't get any pics while it was separated, but I'll be doing it again when I paint and will get some pics then.

[Jonathan]

Rich,

If there were actually a screw or something similar down inside one of the cylinders, don't you think it would have a much more violent and engine destroying impact than a ticking or knocking sound?

I just mean with that cylinder head going up and down 1,000 times per minute or more, regardless of whether that screw or piece of something was above or below, I'd expect it to do some serious damage to an engine and not just something you can hear.

I'm trying to say that even if you don't get the camera down in there to look, I would find it hard to believe there is something substantial like that in there causing you problems.

[Rich_NYS]

Rich,

If there were actually a screw or something similar down inside one of the cylinders, don't you think it would have a much more violent and engine destroying impact than a ticking or knocking sound?

I just mean with that cylinder head going up and down 1,000 times per minute or more, regardless of whether that screw or piece of something was above or below, I'd expect it to do some serious damage to an engine and not just something you can hear.

I'm trying to say that even if you don't get the camera down in there to look, I would find it hard to believe there is something substantial like that in there causing you problems.

I agree, and said the same thing to my Dad (experienced mechanic) who told me it would depend on exactly where the foreign object would be, and that it could get embedded in the face of the piston. He also mentioned something called "carbon knock" that he has seen in the past, and that it causes a noise similar to what I have.

I wasn't expecting to see much, but since I was able to get a camera, I figured: "why not?"

[Bitsyncmaster]

Carbon build up was a big problem back with leaded gas. Not so much these days.

[Rich_NYS]

Got one of them out with a double-nut, the other is being stubborn. I heated it a little, then sprayed it while hot...gonna let it soak.

If it gives any further resistance, I'll get an extractor.

Whew...got it today.

I welded a nut on the end of the stud(thanks Ron,) but it still wouldn't budge. Also, I could feel it "flexing" so I added vice-grips to it. Still no-go, so I sprayed & tapped on it with a hammer a while, then held an ice cube on it (laugh if you must -lol.) After working "back & forth" I finally felt it move a bit. Repeatedly spraying, working, icing seemed to be the winning combo.

Victory!

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[Bitsyncmaster]

You can buy a can of freeze spray. I used that stuff for finding intermittent in electronics troubleshooting. Basically all that can does is pump liquid R134 out of the nozzle.

http://www.dalco.com/p-2506-max-pro-freeze-spray-10-oz.aspx?gclid=CN7ivvaCpckCFckYHwodYr4FQw

[Rich_NYS]

You can buy a can of freeze spray. I used that stuff for finding intermittent in electronics troubleshooting. Basically all that can does is pump liquid R134 out of the nozzle.

http://www.dalco.com/p-2506-max-pro-freeze-spray-10-oz.aspx?gclid=CN7ivvaCpckCFckYHwodYr4FQw

Thanks Dave. Andrew mentioned it last week, that's what made me think if the ice cube -haha! I thought I had a can of Dust-Off I was going to try, but didn't find it so I went old-school with the ice -lol!

I should probably keep a can of that freeze spray on hand, might be useful for the Y-Pipe bolts.

[Lwanmtr]

Things like that are why I'll leave heavy engine work to guys at DMCNW....hehe.

[Rich_NYS]

Things like that are why I'll leave heavy engine work to guys at DMCNW....hehe.

Roger that!

My first car needed exhaust manifold gaskets so I brought it to a nearby import shop (I think 6-8 studs snapped on that job.)

I decided to do this one myself since the car would be on stands (and partially disassembled) in my garage all Winter, and I want to get the exhaust noise fixed before continuing to diagnose a noise that has been a bit tricky.

[Rich_NYS]

Disassembled my front calipers tonight:

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Worst amount of goop in this one:

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Bad spots on the pistons:

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[Ron]

You be one busy beaver, bud.

[Rich_NYS]

You be one busy beaver, bud.


Yessir.....thanks!

[Rich_NYS]

Got 3 of the Y-pipe bolts loose tonight......

[DMCMW Dave]

38295

Hard to believe but I'm not sure I've ever seen one as bad as that first one.

[Rich_NYS]

Hard to believe but I'm not sure I've ever seen one as bad as that first one.

That does surprise me, Rob said the same thing and I thought he was goofing on me -lol!

I've seen so many horribly rusted & corroded things here in the Northeast, if I see any shiny metal I'm used to thinking it ain't so bad!

Being able to open the brake bleeder on this 34 year-old car without a torch & 2lb hammer has me on cloud nine....hahaha

[Rich_NYS]

Disassembled the front suspension tonight, everything came apart easily but had a bit of a scare with the drivers' side spring when the compressor slid. The spring became unevenly compressed and it made it a lot harder (and precarious) to remove.

3858238583

[Lwanmtr]

Yep, some things I'll pay the guys at DMCNW to do cause those springs can get quite dangerous

[Rich_NYS]

Yep, some things I'll pay the guys at DMCNW to do cause those springs can get quite dangerous

That thought crossed my mind as I heard a startling "ga-dong" noise when the compressor shifted.

[Rich_NYS]

Bad spots on the pistons:

38295382963829738298


Hard to believe but I'm not sure I've ever seen one as bad as that first one.


How about the first one in these pics?

I have the rears apart now, and here are the pistons:

38592385963859738598

[Jonathan]

When I originally saw the pics of your front pistons, I was gonna mention that one of mine seemed to look just as bad (or at least in the running for worst/first place). The pic of the one from your rears takes the cake though!

I bet your garage is a nice spot to work with the mild weather!

[Rich_NYS]

When I originally saw the pics of your front pistons, I was gonna mention that one of mine seemed to look just as bad (or at least in the running for worst/first place). The pic of the one from your rears takes the cake though!

I bet your garage is a nice spot to work with the mild weather!

I'm finding things that look to me that my car was in a creek at some point. Everything looks really good, with no rusted fastners, but the condition of those pistons & the presence of small stones that look like river stones were in the trailing arm shields. Again, nothing rusty except for the pistons & some surface rust where the epoxy peeled from a leaking master cylinder. I guess it's also possible someone got stuck where there was loose stone & spun the tires (sending a bunch of small stones into the undercarriage.

Weather has been great. I actually bought a propane space heater for my garage this year, but haven't finished the install yet. This time last year we had a bunch of snow & cold temperatures. I plan to get a lot done before Spring!

[Mark D]

Yikes, thats some pretty bad rust on the rear pistons. Looks like it's time for some $tainle$$ replacement$

[Rich_NYS]

Yikes, thats some pretty bad rust on the rear pistons. Looks like it's time for some $tainle$$ replacement$

This brake re$toration is getting expen$ive.....haha.

[Lwanmtr]

Starts to add up quickly..lol.

Im at bit of a standstill myself cause of funds

[Rich_NYS]

Starts to add up quickly..lol.

Im at bit of a standstill myself cause of funds

I noticed you hadn't updated lately, but sometimes a good to take a break!:thumbup:

Now is also a good time to do a few things that don't require $$ (cleaning, learning, planning....etc.)

[Lwanmtr]

Hehe..dont wanna take a break...wanna be drivin'..hehe

Been debating about pulling the front and rear fascias off, since those need a lil attention..and right headlight bracket is loose or something.

[Rich_NYS]

Here are pics of both rotor & hub assemblies, it looks to me like a sealed bearing is used in these hubs....correct?

If so, I think the first pic shows an intact bearing with the hub spacer removed (and shown) in the pic.

The 2nd & 3rd pic is the other hub & rotor, and looks to me like the bearing is broken apart with half the bearing & hub spacer remaining on the spindle.....is that correct?

Thanks!

Pssenger side:
38705


Drivers' side:
3870638707

[Bitsyncmaster]

Correct, your bearing has come apart. Not much holds the bearing together (just the seal). So any sticking of the inner race on the axle shaft will make them come apart.

Many old cars I've had the front bearings are not sealed. You would just repack the bearing with new grease when you put it back together. Those were roller bearings.

[Rich_NYS]

Correct, your bearing has come apart. Not much holds the bearing together (just the seal). So any sticking of the inner race on the axle shaft will make them come apart.

Many old cars I've had the front bearings are not sealed. You would just repack the bearing with new grease when you put it back together. Those were roller bearings.

Thanks Dave, I'm guessing the bearings are pressed in....would that be correct? I'm planning to have the rotors turned/resurfaced, so if I need something pressed I'll see if the shop will do that at the same time.

[Mark D]

Yes, the front bearings are pressed into the hubs and you'll either need to press them in and out yourself or have a shop do it for you. Since you're already this deep into your restoration I'll be the first to recommend picking up a cheap shop press of your own. It's one of my favorite tools in my garage and it's one of those things you wonder how you lived without once you have one. For around 100 bucks you'll be able to do all your own bushings, bearings, and ball joints.

Here's the new model from harbor freight that replaced the old version that I bought. They used to be orange and have since been replaced with a shiny silver version.

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-h-frame-industrial-heavy-duty-floor-shop-press-60604.html


If you decide to go this route you can save 20% using this coupon:
http://www.harborfreight.com/digitalsavings.html

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=38719&d=1450709776

[Bitsyncmaster]

It also common for that inner race to be stuck tight onto the axle shaft on the front wheels. You may need to cut that race on one side and then a cold chisel will break it free.

[Mark D]

It also common for that inner race to be stuck tight onto the axle shaft on the front wheels. You may need to cut that race on one side and then a cold chisel will break it free.

Yes, great advice!

[Rich_NYS]

Yes, the front bearings are pressed into the hubs and you'll either need to press them in and out yourself or have a shop do it for you. Since you're already this deep into your restoration I'll be the first to recommend picking up a cheap shop press of your own. It's one of my favorite tools in my garage and it's one of those things you wonder how you lived without once you have one. For around 100 bucks you'll be able to do all your own bushings, bearings, and ball joints.

Here's the new model from harbor freight that replaced the old version that I bought. They used to be orange and have since been replaced with a shiny silver version.

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-h-frame-industrial-heavy-duty-floor-shop-press-60604.html


If you decide to go this route you can save 20% using this coupon:
http://www.harborfreight.com/digitalsavings.html

Yer killin' me! I have a one-car garage, but this sounds like a really good idea....just gotta find a spot to put it. (Sounds nutty, but I might disassemble & shelve it when not in use.) Will I need a set of adapters?






It also common for that inner race to be stuck tight onto the axle shaft on the front wheels. You may need to cut that race on one side and then a cold chisel will break it free.

Good tip...thanks Dave.

[Rich_NYS]

Got the last bolt out tonight! I've been soaking, tapping, and nudging for over a month....didn't snap any of the bolts.

38722

[Mark D]

Yer killin' me! I have a one-car garage, but this sounds like a really good idea....just gotta find a spot to put it. (Sounds nutty, but I might disassemble & shelve it when not in use.) Will I need a set of adapters?







Good tip...thanks Dave.

You can rent the adapters for free from auto zone, advance auto, oreillys, etc. You pay up front and get a full refund when returned. The press from HF is pretty simple to assemble so you could take the legs off and store it between uses if you're cramped for space. :-)

[Lwanmtr]

Thats alotta patience...hehe

[Ron]

Got the last bolt out tonight! I've been soaking, tapping, and nudging for over a month....didn't snap any of the bolts.

38722:thumbup:

[Rich_NYS]

Preliminary VOD cleaning: vacuumed out coolant & crud, scraped, sprayed w/cleaner, poured hot water over it & vacuumed again:

38739

What type of cleaner do you guys use? I'm going to to clean the whole engine, starting with this area (working from the top, down.)




I also removed the rear impact absorber:

38740

I should've done that sooner, I have a little more working room now.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I used a wire brush on the Dremel extension flex drive to clean down in those deep holes. I just painted the bare aluminum with paint using a brush. My thought was the thin paint will fill the pores in the aluminum better than a thick coating.

[Jonathan]

Preliminary VOD cleaning: vacuumed out coolant & crud, scraped, sprayed w/cleaner, poured hot water over it & vacuumed again:

38739

What type of cleaner do you guys use? I'm going to to clean the whole engine, starting with this area (working from the top, down.)

Looks pretty good already, Rich. Was wondering the same thing about the best way to clean the VoD and what products or tools to use.


I also removed the rear impact absorber:

38740

I should've done that sooner, I have a little more working room now.

I'm going to take mine out as well now that you mention this. My arms are a little longer than yours though!


I used a wire brush on the Dremel extension flex drive to clean down in those deep holes. I just painted the bare aluminum with paint using a brush. My thought was the thin paint will fill the pores in the aluminum better than a thick coating.

Dave, how gentle do you need to be with cleaning like you've mentioned here, with a Dremel and wire brush? The surface of my VoD has a lot of grime, but the dried on variety, and with it like that, it's hard to figure out where the actual metal surface is. It's not very flat or symmetrical to begin with and I'd hate to score or gouge the aluminum or worse not realizing I'm already down to bare metal.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Dave, how gentle do you need to be with cleaning like you've mentioned here, with a Dremel and wire brush? The surface of my VoD has a lot of grime, but the dried on variety, and with it like that, it's hard to figure out where the actual metal surface is. It's not very flat or symmetrical to begin with and I'd hate to score or gouge the aluminum or worse not realizing I'm already down to bare metal.

I just tried to get bare aluminum color all over. I don't remember if I used a steel wire brush or a softer brush. Demel sells a lot of options for cleaning tools.

[DMC-81]

Preliminary VOD cleaning: vacuumed out coolant & crud, scraped, sprayed w/cleaner, poured hot water over it & vacuumed again:

What type of cleaner do you guys use? I'm going to to clean the whole engine, starting with this area (working from the

Congrats Rich on getting the Y-pipe bolts out! I used Gunk engine cleaner and let it sit. I used a brass brush for stubborn stains. I also used Mother's Aluminum & Metal Polish on the Y-pipe.

38790

Merry Christmas!

[Rich_NYS]

Congrats Rich on getting the Y-pipe bolts out! I used Gunk engine cleaner and let it sit. I used a brass brush for stubborn stains. I also used Mother's Aluminum & Metal Polish on the Y-pipe.

38790

Merry Christmas!


Thanks, and Merry Christmas to you!

[Rich_NYS]

Yes, the front bearings are pressed into the hubs and you'll either need to press them in and out yourself or have a shop do it for you. Since you're already this deep into your restoration I'll be the first to recommend picking up a cheap shop press of your own. It's one of my favorite tools in my garage and it's one of those things you wonder how you lived without once you have one. For around 100 bucks you'll be able to do all your own bushings, bearings, and ball joints.

Here's the new model from harbor freight that replaced the old version that I bought. They used to be orange and have since been replaced with a shiny silver version.

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-h-frame-industrial-heavy-duty-floor-shop-press-60604.html

Good advice, I ordered this tonight. 6.99 shipping...wow, it would cost more than that in gas if I were to pick it up at the nearest HF. As much as I'd like to make another joke about adding a "Mark D suggestion" column on my restoration cost spreadsheet, I'm sure I'll be money ahead with this. I'm guessing if I brought my stuff to a shop, the cost + time would be >the price of this unit.




If you decide to go this route you can save 20% using this coupon:
http://www.harborfreight.com/digitalsavings.html


Thanks again for this.....nice savings (or as I see it: 20% return.) :thumbup:

[Mark D]

That's cool you decided to go with the harbor freight press. Like you mentioned you'll probably come out ahead with being able to do all the work yourself now instead of having to travel somewhere, pay someone else to do it, etc. :D

[Rich_NYS]

While waiting for my bearing press to arrive, I finished prepping the frame for re-painting. I decided to remove the radiator to get better access to the front frame area so I wouldn't need to work around so much stuff, and very glad I did.....much easier to work. I got everything cleaned up & began the only frame repair needed: very minor tow-hook damage to the LF crumple tube, it has ~1" tear. The rest of the frame is solid all the way, just some peeling epoxy from the brake fluid leak.

I put on the first coat of POR-15, ordered POR-15 self-etching primer, and will use Smoke Grey for the topcoat.

[Rich_NYS]

While the radiator is out, I cleaned it and will be installing Toby's fans. I also plan to repaint the radiator.

The shroud had a crack in it; I used plastic-weld epoxy, then sanded & buffed the repair. I could've made it look a bit better, but since the repair will be out of sight I didn't spend too much time on it.

39047

3904839049


I just started with the first coat of POR-15, but this area already looks much better:

39051 39050

[Lwanmtr]

Looking good

[Rich_NYS]

Fan shroud cleaned and Toby's fans installed...


39086 39087

[DMC-81]

Fan shroud cleaned and Toby's fans installed...


39086 39087

Looks great Rich!:thumbup:

[Rich_NYS]

Looks great Rich!:thumbup:

Thanks!


Today I got in a pretty full day and nearly completed the final coat of POR-15. I want to touch-up & topcoat the underside of the FFE for a nice match, but I have a jack in the way due to having the body partially separated from the frame, so after I have it back together I'll have a bit more painting to do.
Things are looking good, but I'm getting tired of sanding & painting. I have several things going at once (so I can "bounce around" & not burn out,) but I'm wanting to finish this part 'cause I know it'll really motivate me. I'll take a bunch of pics to post soon.

[Rich_NYS]

Few pics of the progress so far:

Tow-hook damage:
3914839154


Misc pics of the area most affected by the brake fluid leak:
39149391503915239153

In this pic you can see the how I gained more access to the frame by separating the frame from the body. All body bolts are out except two in the back.
39151


Last coat of POR-15 & a light sanding:
39155

Light coat of primer:
39156

[D-guy]

That looks awesome! I'm dealing with almost exactly the same issues. Are those drain holes that you put in the tank closing plate? Is that a common practice?
Also, do you have any info/tips on raising the body slightly like you did?
That sure is cleaning up nice. [emoji3]


http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160118/8b54269f40883a09d9861c94b0b897d4.jpg




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Rich_NYS]

That looks awesome! I'm dealing with almost exactly the same issues. Are those drain holes that you put in the tank closing plate? Is that a common practice?
Also, do you have any info/tips on raising the body slightly like you did?
That sure is cleaning up nice. [emoji3]

Thanks! Yes, those are drain holes. I believe it's fairly common, I heard several guys mention it and I also got advice from Dave S.

For the frame separation, I have a total of six jack stands used: one each under all 4 lift points (on the underbody,) and two under the engine cradle. I put a floor jack under the front frame section and removed all but the two body bolts in the rear pontoons. When the front is lowered using the jack, it pivots on the rear. I only lowered the front 3cm, just enough to get at the areas I needed to clean & paint. I'm pretty sure it'll go lower, but I don't have anything else disconnected (that would/should be disconnected for a frame-off.)

*Important: my steering rack was out for rebuilding before I did this, and I'd also recommend further research before attempting; I like to live on the edge a bit, and I just "listened for noises" as I lowered the front. If I had the proper facilities, I would've gone the few extra steps and lifted the body off the rolling chassis just for easy working. My frame is pretty good, just had areas where a brake fluid leak peeled the epoxy (so I really didn't need a full frame-off & go on a search & destroy rust mission.)

Your closing plate looks great, was it in pretty bad shape before you restored it? What paint[s] did you use? :thumbup:

[Ron]

.., I heard several guys mention it and I also got advice from Dave S.
?? ...don't dis Dave, dude.

[Rich_NYS]

?? ...don't dis Dave, dude.

Never!

I asked Dave about drain holes, so...whatchu talkin' bout, Willis?

[Ron]

Never!

I asked Dave about drain holes, so...whatchu talkin' bout, Willis?Dave is a (if not one of the) guy(s):rofl:

[Rich_NYS]

Dave is a (if not one of the) guy(s):rofl:

OH.....ok, you have a point there....haha!

[DMC-81]

Few pics of the progress so far:

Tow-hook damage:
3914839154


Misc pics of the area most affected by the brake fluid leak:
39149391503915239153

In this pic you can see the how I gained more access to the frame by separating the frame from the body. All body bolts are out except two in the back.
39151


Last coat of POR-15 & a light sanding:
39155

Light coat of primer:
39156

Hi Rich,

Looking good! For any areas that you don't need to paint, here's a tip for cleaning the frame epoxy that I learned by accident.
Spray carburetor cleaner on a clean blue shop towel, and quickly wipe a small section. Don't rub just wipe in one direction. The epoxy will get sticky as you wipe, so wipe quickly. Then the epoxy will harden up again.
Some stains (like below the brake master cylinder) will need more wipes.
Don't use any other color paper towels, especially ones that have a print, as the ink from the print will transfer to the frame.
Don't spray directly on the frame, or use it on areas that you painted. Use gloves.

That's how I cleaned my whole frame.

[D-guy]

Thanks! Yes, those are drain holes. I believe it's fairly common, I heard several guys mention it and I also got advice from Dave S.

For the frame separation, I have a total of six jack stands used: one each under all 4 lift points (on the underbody,) and two under the engine cradle. I put a floor jack under the front frame section and removed all but the two body bolts in the rear pontoons. When the front is lowered using the jack, it pivots on the rear. I only lowered the front 3cm, just enough to get at the areas I needed to clean & paint. I'm pretty sure it'll go lower, but I don't have anything else disconnected (that would/should be disconnected for a frame-off.)

*Important: my steering rack was out for rebuilding before I did this, and I'd also recommend further research before attempting; I like to live on the edge a bit, and I just "listened for noises" as I lowered the front. If I had the proper facilities, I would've gone the few extra steps and lifted the body off the rolling chassis just for easy working. My frame is pretty good, just had areas where a brake fluid leak peeled the epoxy (so I really didn't need a full frame-off & go on a search & destroy rust mission.)

Your closing plate looks great, was it in pretty bad shape before you restored it? What paint[s] did you use? :thumbup:

Thanks! The plate was pretty pitted and nasty. I cleaned prepped and painted it all with Por-15 as well. I would like to replace it, but our Canadian dollar has to recover a lot before I can do any large parts orders.
I keep finding more and more loose epoxy underneath all the grim as I clean. Probably just recoat and paint everything I can reach this winter. Planning to make it a good habit to go though everything while we are buried in the snow.
By the way I just did a clean up on my steering rack as well. [emoji3]
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160118/89cb8f0362ef847d0ce5647399c213fd.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Rich_NYS]

Hi Rich,

Looking good! For any areas that you don't need to paint, here's a tip for cleaning the frame epoxy that I learned by accident.
Spray carburetor cleaner on a clean blue shop towel, and quickly wipe a small section. Don't rub just wipe in one direction. The epoxy will get sticky as you wipe, so wipe quickly. Then the epoxy will harden up again.
Some stains (like below the brake master cylinder) will need more wipes.
Don't use any other color paper towels, especially ones that have a print, as the ink from the print will transfer to the frame.
Don't spray directly on the frame, or use it on areas that you painted. Use gloves.

That's how I cleaned my whole frame.


Thanks Dana,

I have a new can of carb cleaner and will try it this week. The epoxy [that would otherwise be in great shape] has a nasty yellowish-brown color...I'll let you know how it works!



By the way I just did a clean up on my steering rack as well. [emoji3]
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160118/89cb8f0362ef847d0ce5647399c213fd.jpg

Looks really good, did you just clean it, or is that a new paint job as well?

[D-guy]

Looks really good, did you just clean it, or is that a new paint job as well?[/QUOTE]

It needed paint on the tube. And, I had boots and tie-rod ends that I'd bought a few seasons ago. Some oil was all it needed other than that. Thankfully it was pretty tight overall still.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Rich_NYS]

Thanks Dana,

I have a new can of carb cleaner and will try it this week. The epoxy [that would otherwise be in great shape] has a nasty yellowish-brown color...I'll let you know how it works!

I tried the carb cleaner, but it didn't do much. I noticed the can I have is "chlorinated," ....not sure what that means but maybe has something to do with not working well at cleaning the epoxy. I'm going to get a new can & try again!


It needed paint on the tube. And, I had boots and tie-rod ends that I'd bought a few seasons ago.

What did you use for paint?





I didn't get much done this week; I mostly continued sanding & touch-ups w/POR-15, prepped for primer, and got the first topcoat on my closing plate:

39326

[DMC-81]

Hmm. That's odd. Here's what I used. $2 a can at Walmart. Spray a lot on the shop towel (almost to the point where it wants to drip), in a circle about the size of a silver dollar. It evaporates quickly, so you have to move fast to wipe after spraying. When the towel gets dirty, move to a clean area on the towel. I fold one towel section in half, and half again. Then you get a total of 8 clean squares per towel section.

39329

39330

Note: it cleans the epoxy just like it's new, but it will remove the glossy finish, and make it like a satin finish. If you want the shine back, you'll have to wax it. I like the satin finish so I didn't wax it. Something to consider as you'll have repainted areas that are glossy.

[D-guy]

What did you use for paint?


Cleaned, scuffed and coated with black por15. Only cleaned the 'gearbox' section well.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160125/5f57f663c6ba4b36c59bbd899dd500a7.jpg

Found plastikote federal grey (on the left) a better match to the frame color.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Ron]

Another option- Recently did my plate with fast dry lacquer thinner (so not to break down epoxy much..leaves shinny) followed by touch up with "New Ford Grey".
39337

[Rich_NYS]

Found plastikote federal grey (on the left) a better match to the frame color.


"New Ford Grey".

Great....two more colors [for use on the frame] that I didn't know about. Now I'm going to be second-guessing my choice!

[DMC-81]

Great....two more colors [for use on the frame] that I didn't know about. Now I'm going to be second-guessing my choice!

Wow, they are close aren't they! I ended up using Rustoleum Gloss Smoke Gray. Here is the paint next to a cleaned frame. I had to touch up the outer end of the tow loop...

39380

[Rich_NYS]

I'm going to be painting some black parts, but don't really know the difference between semi-gloss, satin...etc. (I know what flat & gloss is....that's it.)

I'm looking for help with which parts get gloss, semi, satin....etc. I have advice from a few members, but it seems not everyone does the same thing. Most importantly, I need to know the difference between satin and semi-gloss.

Here's a few parts I can think of at the moment:

-Radiator support brackets
-The brace in the engine compartment that has a body bolt on each end
-LCA's
-UCA's
-Stabilizer bar/Sway bar (whatever it's called.)
-Impact absorber (paging Rob)
-Steering rack tube & tie-rods(Mark's are powder coated & look awesome, but I might paint mine.)

I am leaning toward black satin, is that the same as semi-gloss?

[DMC-81]

I'm going to be painting some black parts, but don't really know the difference between semi-gloss, satin...etc. (I know what flat & gloss is....that's it.)

I'm looking for help with which parts get gloss, semi, satin....etc. I have advice from a few members, but it seems not everyone does the same thing. Most importantly, I need to know the difference between satin and semi-gloss.

Here's a few parts I can think of at the moment:

-Radiator support brackets
-The brace in the engine compartment that has a body bolt on each end
-LCA's
-UCA's
-Stabilizer bar/Sway bar (whatever it's called.)
-Impact absorber (paging Rob)
-Steering rack tube & tie-rods(Mark's are powder coated & look awesome, but I might paint mine.)

I am leaning toward black satin, is that the same as semi-gloss?


Hi Rich,

The sheen in paint increases from flat, satin, semi-gloss, and gloss. As you go up the sheen scale, there is more resin in the paint which makes it more durable.... e.g. That's why semi-gloss is recommended for a bathroom. Satin is different than semi-gloss.

Here is the sheen that I used. I basically replaced what I saw:

-Radiator support brackets - satin
-The brace in the engine compartment that has a body bolt on each end - didn't paint but it appears to be satin
-LCA's -gloss
-UCA's- gloss
-Stabilizer bar/Sway bar - satin
-Impact absorber (paging Rob) - gloss engine enamel per Rob.
-Steering rack tube & tie-rods - satin

Cheers,

[Rich_NYS]

Hi Rich,

The sheen in paint increases from flat, satin, semi-gloss, and gloss. As you go up the sheen scale, there is more resin in the paint which makes it more durable.... e.g. That's why semi-gloss is recommended for a bathroom. Satin is different than semi-gloss.

Here is the sheen that I used. I basically replaced what I saw:

-Radiator support brackets - satin
-The brace in the engine compartment that has a body bolt on each end - didn't paint but it appears to be satin
-LCA's -gloss
-UCA's- gloss
-Stabilizer bar/Sway bar - satin
-Impact absorber (paging Rob) - gloss engine enamel per Rob.
-Steering rack tube & tie-rods - satin

Cheers,



Excellent, thanks....!!

[Bitsyncmaster]

The sheen in paint increases from flat, satin, semi-gloss, and gloss. As you go up the sheen scale, there is more resin in the paint which makes it more durable.... e.g. That's why semi-gloss is recommended for a bathroom. Satin is different than semi-gloss.


Also seems the flat sets faster and takes longer as the "sheen" get more glossy.

[Rich_NYS]

Primer coat....

Mark D recommended POR-15's primer, I love it....really good stuff!


3941639417394183941939420

[Lwanmtr]

Looking good.

Looks like you have one of the rare D's with the cardboard shell...amazing it stands up to weather...hehe

[Rich_NYS]

Looks like you have one of the rare D's with the cardboard shell...

Damn right! -lol

Did you hear DeLoreans are going back into production? The cardboard shell will be a much-desired option! :thumbup:

[Rich_NYS]

Progress!

Put on a topcoat, but had a few trouble spots so I'll need to sand out a little orange peel and some particles that appeared on the top of the FFE. So.....it's gonna get a 2nd topcot.

39423

This is where the tow-hook damage was:
39424

39425

39426

39427

39428

39429

39430

39431

39433

[DMC-81]

Looking great Rich! :thumbup:

[Parzval]

Man, that's looking really nice Rich! :cool:

[Domi]

Congratulation, it's beautiful :thumbup:

[Lwanmtr]

Looking good...wanna come do mine? hehe

[Rich_NYS]

Thanks guys...it's gettin' there!

I'm finally posting some before & after pics. These aren't much, but I have the frame painted and other things going simultaneously. Getting ready to ship out parts for re-plating, those pics will really be worth posting!


Closing plate front:

39501 39504


Closing plate back:

39499 39505

[Rich_NYS]

I began cleaning around the rear hub & suspension to give myself a motivational boost. I used some spray cleaner & hot water to get a bunch of grime off, then tried Dana's carb cleaner method on an area on the trailing arm that wouldn't clean with simple green...worked good!

397803978339782

[Lwanmtr]

Looking good..did you repaint that?

[Rich_NYS]

Looking good..did you repaint that?

No sir...just cleaned it a little.

[Lwanmtr]

Ill give ya box of twinkies and a bottle of aw rootbeer to come do mine...lol

[DMC-81]

Looking goog Rich. Glad that it worked for you....it's like laser dermabrasion for the epoxy.

[Rich_NYS]

Been working on my seats, here's a sneak preview:

Drivers' side, no work done yet:

40096


Passenger side, ~halfway completed:

40095

[Lwanmtr]

Looking nice. My driver side is split at one of the seams

[Rich_NYS]

Looking nice. My driver side is split at one of the seams

That should be an easy fix; upholstery thread and needle. Mine have a few splits & cracks I'm fixing, I'll post before/after pics when I finish.

[Lwanmtr]

Havent even looked...how do you get the cover off?

[Rich_NYS]

Havent even looked...how do you get the cover off?

It's "clamped" onto the seat frame with metal rings called hog rings. It can be a PITA for some, but others do it like it's nothing. When I recovered seats on 10372, it took me a whole weekend. Bill Robertson can do it in one evening.

Depending on the location of your repair, you might not have to remove too many to get the cover peeled back & sew it.

Here's a pic with some rings removed (along the side,) and a few still in place (along the bottom.)

40106

[Lwanmtr]

They dont make anything easy, do they? lol

[Rich_NYS]

The passenger seat bottom is missing some stitching, plus I went a little nutty with fine-grit sandpaper (prepping for dye) and messed up a lot of the intact stitching. I also got dye on it and made a bigger mess trying to clean it off, so tonight I started the repair on that:

Before I made it worse:
40137

40138

40139

[Lwanmtr]

Oops...now you'll have to redo ALL the threading so it all matches...hehe

[Rich_NYS]

Oops...now you'll have to redo ALL the threading so it all matches...hehe

I'm going to redo the 4 rows on this seat bottom, then make it match the rest of the stitching. If I hadn't screwed up the rest of the stitching so bad, I would just re-stitched the missing parts & blended it.

[Rich_NYS]

Two rows down, two to go:

40177

[Lwanmtr]

Lotsa patience. Looks nice

[Rich_NYS]

Cleaned & repainted my rear impact absorber.

40770407714077240773

[Lwanmtr]

Nice. I didnt go so far as to scrape the old covering off like you did.

[Drive Stainless]

:thumbup:

[Rich_NYS]

There was a small hole that I thought I could fill, but it opened up when I reconditioned the seat so I needed to do a leather repair. Here's a few pics; before, during, and after:


411594116041161

[Lwanmtr]

lookin pretty snazzy...if you're bored you could do mine...lol

[Rich_NYS]

I finished the seats & reassembled them today....ready to have the adjustment tracks put on after a few more coats of paint.

I don't have a really good before pic of the seats the day I took them out, but here's some comparison shots:

4133341334

4133541336


4133741338

41339413404134141342

[Lwanmtr]

Looking very nice

[Rich_NYS]

I finished the seat rails & adjusters, and reassembled the seats. They're on standby and ready to be re-installed....feels like progress!

Before & after:

4152941530


4153141532


Quickie engine bay paint job; I'll have my arm in a sling for about a month, having the engine bay freshened up will keep me motivated while I'm unable to do much work:

41533

[Lwanmtr]

Nice work on the seats. Gonna go over the engine bay with a toothbrush? hehe.

[Rich_NYS]

Got my parts back from being plated and began sorting & matching:

417454174641747

[Parzval]

Got my parts back from being plated and began sorting & matching:

417454174641747

Damn that hardware looks pretty. Looks like you're coming along nicely, Rich! :cool:
Also, what product did you use to (re)condition your leather? I've got to soften up the seats in my Porsche, they're stiff as hell and I don't want to bust em up by sitting on them. Some of the seams are already starting to look like they might come apart anyway.

[DMC-81]

Got my parts back from being plated and began sorting & matching:

417454174641747

Very nice! :thumbup:

[Jonathan]

Rich... is that an oil cooler bracket in those pics? If it is, do you still need it for a manual trans car? I'd gladly take it off your hands if you don't need it. I've got stuff to trade if you need things. Lemme know.

http://store.delorean.com/p-6306-oil-cooler-supt-brkt.aspx

[Rich_NYS]

Damn that hardware looks pretty. Looks like you're coming along nicely, Rich! :cool:
Also, what product did you use to (re)condition your leather? I've got to soften up the seats in my Porsche, they're stiff as hell and I don't want to bust em up by sitting on them. Some of the seams are already starting to look like they might come apart anyway.

Thanks Josh.....I'm really psyched about how things are going.

I used Leatherique on the seats, it appears to be the most popular choice among the owners here. I have a few tips to share, hit me up if you have more questions. Very soon I'm going to work on my shifter boot; I'll post pics & info, stop back here soon to see a demo of the product as I use it on the dried up shifter boot (we'll see how good it really is -lol.)




Rich... is that an oil cooler bracket in those pics? If it is, do you still need it for a manual trans car? I'd gladly take it off your hands if you don't need it. I've got stuff to trade if you need things. Lemme know.

http://store.delorean.com/p-6306-oil-cooler-supt-brkt.aspx

Hey Jonathan,

That does appear to be the bracket, but it was on one of my coolant pipes:

4176741768

At the moment, I don't recall exactly how/where the pipe was attached. Is that bracket something that normally isn't used on a manual? Looks to me like there are two different pipes (one for auto, one for manual) that both use the bracket.

If I don't need it, I'll definitely trade it to you.

[DMC-81]

Hi guys,
Regarding the bracket, I have the same one on my manual car. It's supporting the pipes leading to the front from the engine on the right side of the car, in the same place as the oil cooler bracket goes. I think on a manual car, that pipe is just a larger normal coolant pipe. If I recall correctly, you still need the bracket to help support that leg of the piping.

I can take a picture later if it helps.

Cheers,

[Rich_NYS]

Hi guys,
Regarding the bracket, I have the same one on my manual car. It's supporting the pipes leading to the front from the engine on the right side of the car, in the same place as the oil cooler bracket goes. I think on a manual car, that pipe is just a larger normal coolant pipe. If I recall correctly, you still need the bracket to help support that leg of the piping.

I can take a picture later if it helps.

Cheers,

Thanks Dana,

A picture would be great, I'm not finding one in my disassembly pics so I probably assumed it to be self-explanatory but now I'm wondering...

[DMC-81]

Sure, here it is.

41776

[Rich_NYS]

Sure, here it is.

41776


Holy wow that's a clean car! Thanks for the pic, very helpful.

Careful of where your heat duct (off the exhaust manifold) meets with the rear water pipe...they have a tendency to rub & cause a wear spot.

[Jonathan]

Well, I learned something new. I didn't realize the bracket was used on all cars, and just that oil cooler/pipe changes depending on the trans.

Yea, keep the one you have Rich, lol. I'd have thought they'd be easier to find than they have been... especially now after realizing all the cars had them!

[Rich_NYS]

Well, I learned something new. I didn't realize the bracket was used on all cars, and just that oil cooler/pipe changes depending on the trans.

Yea, keep the one you have Rich, lol. I'd have thought they'd be easier to find than they have been... especially now after realizing all the cars had them!

You were trying to strip parts off my car! -LOL!

Is that bracket NLA? It would be very easy to make/have made, if you need to borrow it for reference I'll send it to you....

[DMC-81]

Holy wow that's a clean car! Thanks for the pic, very helpful.

Careful of where your heat duct (off the exhaust manifold) meets with the rear water pipe...they have a tendency to rub & cause a wear spot.

Thanks Rich! I'll check the clearance between those pipes.

[Lwanmtr]

Sure, here it is.

41776

You drive that at all? Looks cleaner than a fast food kitchen...lol

[Bitsyncmaster]

Careful of where your heat duct (off the exhaust manifold) meets with the rear water pipe...they have a tendency to rub & cause a wear spot.

+1
That is why that pipe is NLA. There was a welded pipe on my car when I bought it. I think the battery cable also can wear the hole in the pipe if it lays on it.

[content22207_2]

That pipe can be replaced with a long hose run. I've replaced them on both sides (outbound and return):

41797

You only need pipes in the engine compartment itself to hold the otterstat and coolant expansion tank.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Mark D]

Got my parts back from being plated and began sorting & matching:

NICE! For some reason that photo looks strangely familiar... :smile:

[Rich_NYS]

NICE! For some reason that photo looks strangely familiar... :smile:

:thumbup:

I added that to the "Arrgghh...friggin' Mark D!" column on my spreadsheet -LOL! Can you pick out the parts I purposely did differently so I wouldn't completely copy your setup?

Got this today, and sense it will be the best 29.95 I spent on a tool so far:

41825

[Rich_NYS]

Wow, I really love this rivnut tool....sometimes it's the simple things, I guess.

Thanks to Mark D (again) for showing me something incredibly useful and necessary that helps make my resto successful. :cheers:


418264182741828

[Lwanmtr]

Thought about getting one of those, but not sure what Id use it on. Other than weird parts like the ones in your pictures

[Rich_NYS]

:thumbup:

I added the cost of that to the "Arrgghh...friggin' Mark D!" column on my spreadsheet -LOL!

Fixed that for myself.

Not being able to edit posts after a short time is a nuisance at times.




Thought about getting one of those, but not sure what Id use it on. Other than weird parts like the ones in your pictures

There are rivnuts in several other places on the car, I'll need to replace a few in the luggage compartment. I'm sure I'll find other uses for it as well.

[Mark D]

Wow, I really love this rivnut tool....sometimes it's the simple things, I guess.

Thanks to Mark D (again) for showing me something incredibly useful and necessary that helps make my resto successful. :cheers:


418264182741828

Hey no problem Rich. Something as simple as having to find a replacement rivnut for that parking brake plate can derail a project for a few days. I'm always happy to help out and make life easier for the next guy if I can.

Having one of those Rivnut tools pays itself off pretty quickly... I've lost count the number I've replaced on my car, mostly in the trunk area where they like to seize up an spin in the fiberglass. They're handy to use on other projects as well when you need something sturdy to hold a fastener in a piece of sheet metal.

[FABombjoy]

There are rivnuts in several other places on the car, I'll need to replace a few in the luggage compartment. I'm sure I'll find other uses for it as well.
I sunk a couple into the engine compartment light switch / resistor bracket. I loathe when I find a bolt that's held by a blind, non-captive nut.
41836

Plot twist: You can't fit the rivnut tool in there. Had to use a bolt / nut / vise to set them.

[MML]

There are rivnuts in several other places on the car, I'll need to replace a few in the luggage compartment.

I bought one last week for that exact purpose, I was planning on repainting the compartment as well.

[Parzval]

:thumbup:

I added that to the "Arrgghh...friggin' Mark D!" column on my spreadsheet -LOL! Can you pick out the parts I purposely did differently so I wouldn't completely copy your setup?

Got this today, and sense it will be the best 29.95 I spent on a tool so far:

41825

Hey Rich, where'd you pick that rivnut gun up at? I needed one for my jeep long ago, but never found one... at least not that inexpensively anyway. I'd like to put some rivnuts in the rocker panel on my 914 to hold on the outer panel rather than just rivet it on like factory. That way I can get behind it if necessary!

[Rich_NYS]

Hey Rich, where'd you pick that rivnut gun up at? I needed one for my jeep long ago, but never found one... at least not that inexpensively anyway. I'd like to put some rivnuts in the rocker panel on my 914 to hold on the outer panel rather than just rivet it on like factory. That way I can get behind it if necessary!


Hey Josh,

Here's the one I bought: http://www.ebay.com/itm/221994196911?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Sounds like a good idea you have; like the panels int the trunk area, easy access is always a good thing.

I started on my shifter boot with leatherique and will post pics soon....

[Rich_NYS]

I used Leatherique on the shifter boot; it has a tear so I won't be using it, but I followed through with the cleaner & conditioner to get reference pics for Josh:

Before:

41880


1 day after applying Rejuvinator oil, then residue cleaned with Prestine cleaner:

4188141882


2nd application of Rejuvinator, then a day or two after it penetrated:

41883 41884


2nd round of Prestine clean, then a "pinch test" and "fold test:"

418854188641887

[Parzval]

Thanks Rich. Looks pretty simple, apparently just takes time. I'll have to give it a shot. :cool:

[Rich_NYS]

Today I used my press for the first time to replace the front wheel bearings. Mark D was right; after using it just once I'm totally glad I bought it. I wasn't able to get a loaner set of adapters for the press, but I lucked out and was able to borrow a 32mm impact socket and a 36mm adapter.

I used the 32mm socket to press out the remains of the old bearing:

4220442205


I put the new bearings in the fridge for a while and heated the hub a bit before pressing the bearing in:

42206422074220842209

That was quite a satisfying procedure.

[Lwanmtr]

in the fridge? they go bad? hehe

[Rich_NYS]

in the fridge? they go bad? hehe

I wanted send good vibes to them by setting them next to a few Corona's! I figured if I was nice to the bearings, they'd be nice to me.....:biggrin:

[Lwanmtr]

Wonder what the effect drunk bearings will have.... :thinkin:

[Rich_NYS]

Re-installed the rack, finished painting & cleaning a few things, and test-fit the radiator:

4325643257432584325943260


OEM Tie-rod ends w/new boots:

43261


4326243263432644326543266432674326843269


Looks nice painted, I hope it works:

43270


OEM reservoir with Volvo master cylinder:

43271

[content22207_2]

OEM reservoir with Volvo master cylinder:

43271

Saab master cylinder?

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Rich_NYS]

Saab master cylinder?

Bill Robertson
#5939

Yes, Saab.....not sure why I wrote "Volvo" and I can't edit it.

[content22207_2]

Andrew in Michigan is running a Saab master cylinder with good results. We spoke about it at length at the DMCMW Open House. He has one car with an OEM master cylinder and one car with the Saab unit -- he can't tell any difference braking between them.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Rich_NYS]

Andrew in Michigan is running a Saab master cylinder with good results. We spoke about it at length at the DMCMW Open House. He has one car with an OEM master cylinder and one car with the Saab unit -- he can't tell any difference braking between them.

Bill Robertson
#5939

I'm expecting good results with the Saab unit, hopefully my servo is in working condition. I wasn't able to get the hang of a vacuum test using a borrowed hand pump.

[content22207_2]

Use the hand pump to pull a vacuum on the chamber. If the chamber won't hold vacuum typically the check valve has gone bad (Help!/Dorman sells a replacement). If the chamber holds vacuum, press the brake pedal to ensure the rubber internals haven't gone bad. If you hear vacuum hissing out while pressing the pedal the unit needs to be rebuilt or replaced.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Lwanmtr]

Loooking good...you been busy...hehe.

[Mark D]

Looking great Rich! Glad you're digging the hydraulic press. I don't know how I survived working on cars for so long without one. I remember using a sawzall on my honda lower control arms to remove old bushings...I probably could have had those out in 2 minutes with a press.

[Andrew]

Andrew in Michigan is running a Saab master cylinder with good results. We spoke about it at length at the DMCMW Open House. He has one car with an OEM master cylinder and one car with the Saab unit -- he can't tell any difference braking between them.

Bill Robertson
#5939

I've driven both 4194 and 5052 this year and reverified that I can't tell any difference between the vendor sourced master (installed sometime in 1999 or 2000) in 4194 and the Saab master in 5052. I really can't say either is better than the other, because they feel the same to me.

[Rich_NYS]

Test-fitting:

4348443485

[Lwanmtr]

Oooh...shiny.

[Mark D]

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=27936&d=1402425715

[Rich_NYS]

Progress update:

Re-installed brake booster w/new MC, cleaned & began routing wiring harness and AC hoses, installed horn brackets, cleaned some fiberglass, cleaned a few hoses, and began installing the front suspension (final run.....I took it apart since the last posting.)

436574365843659436604366143662

[Lwanmtr]

Ooop...you missed a spot.....looks like a lil dirt still left on one of them hoses...hehe.

Looking good.

[Mark D]

Looks fantastic Rich!

[Rich_NYS]

Looks fantastic Rich!


Thanks Mark!

Question: does it matter that I have all the nuts on the same side as shown in the pic below? Seems to me that it wouldn't matter, but I noted [before I disassembled] the UCA bolt was opposite the LCA and/or lower shock mount.

43676

[Mark D]

The bolt orientation doesn't really matter as long as you've got enough room to slide it in and out and not wedge up against some other part. I think I had a few forward and a few rearward just based on ease of installation.

[Rich_NYS]

I started on the clutch master rebuild. I have it apart and started cleaning it, but there's some crud inside that's a bit stubborn. I don't want to get too aggressive in the cylinder...any tips on removing the brown stuff?

4373643737

[content22207_2]

Piston seal never goes back that far. That's why the very end of the cylinder has brown crap but the rest of the way down is worn smooth.

I just pass some extremely fine grit sandpaper *AROUND THE CIRCUMFERENCE* (not lengthwise). It's a poor man's cylinder hone. Then wash the cylinder out, lubricate it with brake fluid, and slide the rebuild assembly in.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[content22207_2]

Here's a helpful hint for reinstalling the cylinder: weld some tabs onto the mounting bolts. Tabs will prevent the bolts from rotating while you tighten the nuts inside the car.

43738

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Bitsyncmaster]

Here's a helpful hint for reinstalling the cylinder: weld some tabs onto the mounting bolts. Tabs will prevent the bolts from rotating while you tighten the nuts inside the car.

43738

Bill Robertson
#5939

That's a good idea but I was able to just use some vice grips to hold the nut as I tightened the bolt from the other side.

[Rich_NYS]

Here's a helpful hint for reinstalling the cylinder: weld some tabs onto the mounting bolts. Tabs will prevent the bolts from rotating while you tighten the nuts inside the car.

43738



Bill Robertson
#5939


That's a good idea but I was able to just use some vice grips to hold the nut as I tightened the bolt from the other side.


I'm a renegade, I use a wrench to hold the nut.

[Rich_NYS]

Carpets are now cleaned, bagged, and ready for re-installation.

Some before & after pics:


4527845279452804528145282452834528445285

[Lwanmtr]

Nice, they came out great.

Yours came out much better looking than mine did...and I used a steam cleaner. But then mine are quite worn...so I ended up just using a fabric spray and made them black, til I can afford new ones..hehe.

[Mark D]

Wow great results...is that just a good cleaning or did you brush in any dye?

[Rich_NYS]

Wow great results...is that just a good cleaning or did you brush in any dye?

No dye-just cleaned; I pressure-sprayed, soaked in water w/Oxi-Clean detergent, then pressure-sprayed again. I'll also finish with 409 carpet cleaner after I re-install them.

There are a few faded areas, but I think not noticeable. There are also a few light stains I'm hoping the 409 will remove.

[Rich_NYS]

I reconnected the frame to the body, installed Bill's evaporator box drain mod, reinstalled the gas tank & closing plate, and installed the passenger side suspension:

4694946950469514695246953469544695546956

[Lwanmtr]

Looking good.

[DMC-81]

Very nice!!

[Mark D]

Wow she's really coming together nicely, great work as always!

[Parzval]

SERIOUSLY looking good Rich! I'm sure I'll bump into you one of these times out there this summer. :cool:

[Rich_NYS]

Thanks everyone...reassembling things is very motivating!

[Rich_NYS]

Got a few more things reassembled today, looking forward to setting it on it's wheels this week so I can adjust the front coilovers and complete the swaybar install.

471944719547196

[Lwanmtr]

Cool, looks good.

[rtcraver]

Posting my resto blog to both forums, 'cause sometimes I feel like a nut...sometimes I don't!

VIN 4728 arrived on 3-27-15. It stayed in my driveway until 5-1-15 while waiting for VIN 10372 to be picked up and transported to it's new owner (*sniff*.)

While parked in the driveway, I cleaned the exterior, changed the oil, and replaced the choke coil (it has a carb conversion....might keep it, go back to stock, or engine swap.) The car would start, run, and drive, but developed an awful rapping noise under the passenger side valve cover. For the rest of the time that it was parked in my driveway I avoided starting it, only cleaned & assessed it.

34589 34590

I learned a lot about owning/restoring a DeLorean in the year that I owned 10372, and learned the approach that works for me. I make a spreadsheet to track costs, progress, and maintain a prioritized to-do list. For 4728 I have 3 lists I'll work on simultaneously to reach my goal of having it on the road for short drives before snow season this year:

Get it safely running/driving

Fuel System
Carburetor adjustment/fine tune running
Valve adjustment
Replace Cooling System Hoses
Rebuild Calipers
Replace Master Brake Cylinder
Replace Belts
Replace Plug Wires
Replace Oil Sender
Check all grounding points following Bill's diagram
Exhaust Manifold Gasket
Oil change

Cosmetics to stay motivated

Repair/Paint Rear Facsia
Paint Sunshade Louvre, Black Trim & Side Mirrors
Clean/Shampoo Carpets, detail interior
Front & Rear Headliners
Convex Side Mirrors
Restore Seats
Door Seals
Steering Column Bushing
LED's
Clean & Paint Frame and Closing Plate
Modify pull-straps to later VIN style
Replace Cargo Net Bungee


While I'm in there

Brake Booster clean & paint
Dynamat
Fix Tail Lights
Run speaker wire for future use


Since I want all items checked off before the car leaves my garage, my approach is to disassemble everything necessary and place part orders as I determine what I need. I'll have what I need on hand for multiple projects, so if I get stuck needing something for one project I can hop to a different project while waiting for additional parts/materials (or paint to dry.)

Here's the current status:

-Car on stands
-All wheels off
-Driver's side front caliper removed (frozen piston.)
-Closing plate removed
-Rear fascia removed & disassembled
-Headliners removed
-Seats removed
-Passenger side valve cover removed
-Interior vacuumed
-Parts on hand, part orders pending

Let me know if you want to sell the carb conversion manifold, etc... Thanks,

RTCraver

[Rich_NYS]

Let me know if you want to sell the carb conversion manifold, etc... Thanks,

RTCraver

If everything goes as planned, it will be for sale this Winter.

Once I get enough engine components reassembled and start it again, I'm going to make a video and list the manifold for sale.

I currently have a few videos of it running, but there were exhaust and lifter noises.

[Rich_NYS]

Tonight's progress:

472494725047251472524725347254

[Lwanmtr]

Yay clean parts...hehe

[powerline84]

Rich,
You running the Qa1 suspension kit? How do you like it
...Looks beautiful.
Jimmy

[Rich_NYS]

Rich,
You running the Qa1 suspension kit? How do you like it
...Looks beautiful.
Jimmy

So far I just have the front kit, and although I haven't test-driven it yet I really like 'em.

I loved being able to install, test-fit, reinstall, adjust...etc. multiple times without dealing with compressing the springs.

[Rich_NYS]

Here's the current state of my car, I expect to have the engine area re-assembled and running in January.

48045480464804748048480494805048051480524805348054 48055480564805748058480594806048061480624806348064 48065480664806748068480694807048071480724807348074 4807548076480774807848079480804808148082

[powerline84]

Beautiful work Rich. I look forward to drinking some beers and working on Deloreans lol

[Rich_NYS]

Beautiful work Rich. I look forward to drinking some beers and working on Deloreans lol

Roger that!

[Lwanmtr]

Looking awesome.

[DMC-81]

Great progress! It is looking awesome indeed! :thumbup:

[Mark D]

Beautiful work Rich, I'd be happy to have you work on my car anytime :)

It's gonna be so F-ing amazing to take that thing out on the road again after all the work you've put into it.

[Parzval]

Looking really REALLY good, Rich! :cool:

I must confess, I haven't been following your thread very closely. Did you go frame off? That frame is beautiful. I need to tidy mine up as well. I'm torn between doing it a little at a time and being able to drive it, or just jumping in with both feet and going frame off.

[Rich_NYS]

Thanks for the compliments everyone....it means a lot & keeps me motivated!


Josh:

I did [what I call] a "partial" frame-off to get better access to the center frame rail; I removed all but two body bolts in the rear, then "opened" the front (kinda like a gator's jaws.) I should've just done a complete frame-off; I think it wouldn't have been much more time spent, and would've saved a lot of work (not having to mask off the body for painting, being able to reach "down" instead of "up" to work...etc.) I didn't paint the rear portion of the frame or trailing arms, just the front part and center rail.
How's things with your car?

[Parzval]

Josh:

How's things with your car?

Unfortunately I haven't touched it except to move it in and out of the garage a couple times to do work in the garage. The week after Halloween it developed a miss along with a melting rubber smell. I haven't had time to investigate because I've gotten into some major renovations on my house, but I suspect it's a plug wire melting on the manifold. I posted the issue on here and a few other suggestions were posed as well. Like fuse #7, and fuses in general. The insurance goes on lay-up the first of the year, so knowing me, I'll fix it the week before April when it reactivates. :p

I did want to do a few things to it this winter while it was on lay-up, like touch up the frame and bleed the brakes.... maybe fix the curb damage on my one wheel and paint the set. But the house work is going far slower than I anticipated. Good to see you're getting some headway! You'll be on the road this spring I assume! :cool:

[Rich_NYS]

Hopefully I'm only dealing with what I can see here:

4813348134

The yellow wire hacked into position 1 is spliced to that red wire, which was spliced to a blue wire (I removed today) and was run through the bulkhead, along the frame, and into the FFE where it was connected to a fuel pump at the fuel tank.

Everything else electrical seemed to work when I first got the car. I didn't check the A/C....there obviously would be some issues there.

I'm going to replace the fuse block, normalize the wiring, then go from there.

Still on track to start the car this month.

[powerline84]

I am in the same boat ...ordered a new fuse block

[Lwanmtr]

Yaay for PO mods...I just looked at mine and I dont have any wire where that red one is..hehe.

[Rich_NYS]

Finished installing coolant pipes and valve cleaning tonight:

4817048171481724817348169

[Lwanmtr]

Looks good.

[Delta DeLorean]

Finished installing coolant pipes and valve cleaning tonight:

4817048171481724817348169
Great job.
I also did my coolant pipes last week. How did you get your valves so clean, what product / tool did you use? Are the heads still on the car?

[Rich_NYS]

Great job.
I also did my coolant pipes last week. How did you get your valves so clean, what product / tool did you use? Are the heads still on the car?

The heads are still on the car, the intake manifold is off. I rotated the engine to work on closed valves and used a pick & shop-vac to get the bulk of the crud. I then used brake cleaner, a toothbrush, and disposable shop towels.

[Delta DeLorean]

The heads are still on the car, the intake manifold is off. I rotated the engine to work on closed valves and used a pick & shop-vac to get the bulk of the crud. I then used brake cleaner, a toothbrush, and disposable shop towels.

OK, I give that a try, have the intake off the car. Some valves seem more dirty then others on my car.

[Rich_NYS]

OK, I give that a try, have the intake off the car. Some valves seem more dirty then others on my car.

I also have the OEM exhaust removed, so I'm able to easily turn the crank by hand (and only work on closed valves.)

[powerline84]

Those valves look like you actually pulled them from the head. Good job.

[Rich_NYS]

Those valves look like you actually pulled them from the head. Good job.

Thanks man!



Today I adjusted all the valves, and cleaned & reinstalled the valve covers:

482094821048211

Water pump is on the way, should have it installed before the weekend.

I'm still on schedule to have it running this month.

[Lwanmtr]

Wow..looking real nice.....Come give mine a good cleanin like that and ill buy a beer :)

[Rich_NYS]

Wow..looking real nice.....Come give mine a good cleanin like that and ill buy a beer :)

Thanks....that would be a loooong flight, better have really good beer!

[Lwanmtr]

Its really good beer...choice of can OR bottle...lol

[Rich_NYS]

48561


So far, I'm on track to start it this weekend:

48562

[Drive Stainless]

48561


So far, I'm on track to start it this weekend:

48562


LOL @ the wire harness that loops over the water pump!

[powerline84]

Nice !

[Rich_NYS]

LOL @ the wire harness that loops over the water pump!


Haha..! I didn't tidy anything....just took a pic as-is.

[Lwanmtr]

Tsk, tsk...otta make it all clean before taking them pics

[DMC-81]

Looking good Rich! :thumbup:

[Rich_NYS]

Looking good Rich! :thumbup:

Thanks Dana!

Confidence level is high....hopefully starting the engine tomorrow.

I have the cooling system filled & pressure-tested, just need to install the intake manifold, battery, and mufflers, then rig a fuel line & hit the key.

[Lwanmtr]

Good luck...take a vid when you start it up.

[Rich_NYS]

I started the car today, very happy that I met my goal of having it running again in January.

The bad news is I still have a horrible tapping noise that doesn't appear to be a need for valve adjustment. I think there's an oil passage blocked beyond where I was able to clear it in the rocker arm assembly.