Essential "While I'm In There" List for Frame Off Restoration

[MountainGoat]

Hey everyone;

I'm about to do a frame-off restoration on a Delorean, in which I strip it to the bones, restore the frame, and rebuild it from there. Essentially the same as what is oh so helpfully documented here:

http://www.noroads.com/delorean/

I'm trying to compile a list of "While I'm In There" items -- things that are Delorean specific and perhaps not obvious. For example, the blog above mentions a roller pin that is in the manual transmissions that got worn out. That's something I would never have thought to look for normally.

There's also a variety of upgrades, like the stainless steel overflow tank or painting the "valley of death" that are Delorean-specific that should probably be done while you're rebuilding it.

What I'm NOT listing are some things that are "obvious"; bad suspension, rust, replacing bad hoses, etc. Though if there's a particular upgrade to a particular hose that should be done, then I'm interested!

I'm also interested in things that should NOT be done and will hurt the value of the car if they are replaced / upgrade, if any -- stuff like, are certain frame treatments preferred over others?

Anyway -- here's MY list that I've come up with from my own research. Please add to it! Forgive me if this is posted elsewhere, it's kind of difficult to search for -- lots of false positives.

1. Clean the "Valley of Death" and coat it with POR-15

2. Replace original break hoses with stainless-braided ones

3. Replace old plastic-sided radiator with heavy duty brass one

4. Replace old trailing arm bolts with the "Toby TAB" super-strong replacements.

5/MANUAL TRANSMISSION:
a. Large nuts in the transmission that are not always put on correctly (explained here : http://www.noroads.com/delorean/3281/?content=20080406 )
b. second gear roll pin

5/AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION:
a. Replace the governor with the updated version from DMC

6. Replace alternator if it's using the old non-Motorola alternator

[Bitsyncmaster]

I just saw one valley that was POR-15 and none of it remained. Maybe it was not prepped. I just painted my valley with Rust-o-leum and it seems to be holding up. So check with what others have found works or not.

[novadmc]

I cleaned my valley but didn't paint it. Way I figure: it's easy enough to periodically stick my inspection scope camera down into the valley via next to the water pump, or from under the fuel mixture unit, than to paint it and worry about trapping moisture.

[kings1527]

Here's a thread you'll want to check out regarding painting the VOD or not:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?5714-VOD-Cleaning-To-paint-or-Not-to-paint

As far as what to do or not to do during a frame-off, I'd say do whatever you can. Things are much easier with the frame off, particularly with the brake lines and cooling system. I'd replace any rubber connection on the cooling system if it looks to be original.

[David T]

Here's a thread you'll want to check out regarding painting the VOD or not:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?5714-VOD-Cleaning-To-paint-or-Not-to-paint

As far as what to do or not to do during a frame-off, I'd say do whatever you can. Things are much easier with the frame off, particularly with the brake lines and cooling system. I'd replace any rubber connection on the cooling system if it looks to be original.

Make sure all of the recalls have been done. As long as you have the frame bare check it against the measurements R:02:02-:03. Don't take the doors off if you can avoid it. Replace the A/C hoses. Unless the frame is in need of a lot of work you really don't have to remove the body. If you have the plastic clutch line replace it with the S/S one. Check all of the rubber bushings in the shifter linkage for a 5-speed. With the motor out replace the exhaust manifold gaskets. Check the fuse block for any signs of oveheating. Go over and comply with all of the Service Bulletins including ST-33-12/81 water leaks. Check the condition of the roof box and remove any loose rust and paint it. If you don't have the power antennae you may want to add it. Get a "Relay Upgrade Kit" from one of the Delorean venders if the car doesn't have it. If you are taking it all apart now would be the time to lower the car if you want to or upgrade the suspension. Rebuild the brake and clutch systems. New struts all around. If you have the 2 key system convert to the 1 key system. Buy the new outside metal door handles. Add a third brake light. Upgrade the tail light boards and install L.E.D,'s all around (NOT the alternator light!). New door seals. Tune-up the motor with spark plugs, filters, injector seals, clean and test the injectors, adjust valves. Regrain the S/S panels. Repaint the front and rear facias. Flush all of the old fluids and replace with fresh. Inspect and replace if necessary all of the stuff inside the fuel tank.
I could go on and on, this is just the start. A lot of this has to do with the condition of the car BEFORE you start. My advice to you is to try and drive the car at least a little to see what works and what doesn't so you know what needs to be done. Unless the frame is very bad you do not usually need to do a frame-off resto. You could also do parts of the project like rebuilding the transmission (if it actually needs it) BEFORE you take the whole thing apart.

[sdg3205]

Don't paint the valley with POR15.. It will not last. It will bubble and crack and work against you. Instead, you'll learn to dig into it every other year for one reason or another anyway. Use this time to clean it out.

[Tillsy]

Most of the items here can be done regardless of a "frame off"...

[Dangermouse]

I'm confused - why do you list both types of transmission? Surely you will just be doing whichever is on your car? Or are you doing a transmission swap?

[MountainGoat]

I'm confused - why do you list both types of transmission? Surely you will just be doing whichever is on your car? Or are you doing a transmission swap?

Yikes, I missed the forum notification on this one. I just wanted to make a comprehensive list for future stumblers upon the thread :) Not going to swap...!

[dmruschell]

I had the frame on my DeLorean replaced a couple of years ago. I had virtually everything attached to the frame (except the engine) rebuilt or replaced in the process.

I would definitely replace the brake and fuel hard lines (you can only access them with the body off of the frame) with stainless steel lines. I got mine from DPI, as they were the only ones offering the SS lines at the time. I also replaced my coolant hoses with silicone hoses. A/C lines can be replaced with the frame on, but it's probably easier to do with the frame off.

[nkemp]

Frame off ... been there ... done that....I'm glad I did!


Liberal use of penetrating oils ... and let then sit for days ... with replenishment.

There are a few square nuts in sheet metal cages where the nut can be soooo rusted that it won't loosen and it deforms the metal cage when you try to loosen. The black arm in the engine compartment is one. If so, jam a large screwdriver between the nut and the cage to hold it. Lots of penetrating oil, time and prayers. The "Freeze Off" version may be handy at times.


There are a lot of little brackets and components that are prone to rusting, mostly up front. Clean them up and powdercoat them.

Suspension parts, light buckets, radiator brackets, etc


Use SS bolts & nuts as replacements where possible. Using a SS nut on a steel bolt reduces corrosion problems for future removal.
Wax or grease other exposed threaded parts (especially the Rivnuts). Some of those threads are REALLY SMALL diameter and are likely to break. The aluminum Rivnuts are also prone to corrosion.
Install Toby's fans. It will be a lot easier with the body off and you are working from above. Lighter, stronger and less current. My original Bosch resulted in a power slump (inverse surge ???) when they kicked in. Now I can't tell.
Update the radiator if not done so already
Convert to latest gen refrigerant AC system when reassembling

You may want to update to a newer AC condenser coil as well


Clean all electrical connections. I then use use dielectric grease to reduce future corrosion
Now is the time to lower the suspension if not done already. The rear is relatively easy. I had a spring compressor (rented) break while the front spring was under compression and I was holding it. Not cool!
Tranny ... may want to have the tranny shop open and check the ??? end shaft nut tightness. Turns out mine was loose. Also, reinforce the roll pin.
My car benefited by a ground buss to the front (finally the voltage reads correct). I ran mine inside the car but with the body off, it may be worthwhile to run it along the frame. Just a thought. BTW .. the worst ground connection on my car was the one at the trailing arm bolt. It totally disables the car
Grease the Trailing Arm Bolts when installing. My originals rusted to the trailing arm so bad they had to be cut off and I had to get new trailing arms.
Reinforce the front control arms as you see fit. Check for rust through.


Oh ... and have fun.

Nick