Gauge Cluster Issues

[m_w]

All of my gauges were functional. I then removed my cluster to put it in my new binnacle, and in the process lost the fuel gauge, oil pressure gauge and tachometer. The volt gauge, temp gauge and idiot lights appear to all be working. The tach sems to be stuck at 1200 rpm. If the rpms exceed 1200 it will come to life. Anything below it doesn't register.

This was the first time the cluster has ever been removed, and the rest of the interior is still stripped out, if that matters.

Thanks for any ideas.

[sdg3205]

Remove it again and ensure everything is seated and oriented properly. If it is, get some fine sand paper and start cleaning the contacts. Be VERY gentle on the printed circuit board.

It's unbelievable how much a little corrosion throws off those functions.

[Bitsyncmaster]

You probably folded over some of those copper foil connections on the "flex circuit board". You will need to inspect those connector areas and get creative to glue them in place or get a new circuit board.

[Jonathan]

Dave is right (both of them!). I'd guess you folded over on a connection when you reinserted the white connector in the middle. And if you didn't fold over several individual tabs at the same time, I would guess you folded over just the ground tab.

Have a look at these:

34859348603486134862

There is a two page "how-to" that may help you see it better; a schematic showing which pin goes to which connection (I would guess you folded over #13); and a photo of someone else's cluster, where you can see that #13 tab looks a little crooked.

[m_w]

Good ideas, it gives me some stuff to look at and test out. Ill get that done this week and let you know how it turned out.

[JohnZ]

I glued my connectors to the plastic thing with double side tape and it's rock solid! no more worries about unplugging the plug!

[m_w]

As a followup to this thread - I had the time to take my gauge cluster and binnacle out again and clean all the connections and make sure everything was straight (the pinout above was very helpful to know what specific contacts to be careful with).

I then plugged in the binnacle and turned the key to 'run' - but did not start the car. I saw the tach, temp gauge, and oil pressure go to zero. I saw the battery light and oil light come on. The volt gauge was reading what I would guess is the battery charge. I think that is all as expected.

Except for the fuel gauge. That read 0, when I know I have nearly 10 gallons in the car. I expected this to read the level of the tank.... Except that I have the updated DMCH fuel pump kit. Does that only read the fuel level when the car is running? Or am do I have some wire tracing in my future?

Thanks again for all the help!

[DMCMW Dave]

Except for the fuel gauge. That read 0, when I know I have nearly 10 gallons in the car. I expected this to read the level of the tank.... Except that I have the updated DMCH fuel pump kit. Does that only read the fuel level when the car is running? Or am do I have some wire tracing in my future?

Thanks again for all the help!

The new type fuel sender is powered by the same feed as the pump, which is off unless the engine is running (RPM relay). You can jump the RPM relay for a short while and you'll hear the pump run and the gauge will read. Jump brown to white/purple on the RPM relay socket. Don't leave it like this too long, you'll run down the battery and risk flooding the engine.

[m_w]

The new type fuel sender is powered by the same feed as the pump, which is off unless the engine is running (RPM relay). You can jump the RPM relay for a short while and you'll hear the pump run and the gauge will read. Jump brown to white/purple on the RPM relay socket. Don't leave it like this too long, you'll run down the battery and risk flooding the engine.

Great! Thanks Dave. And ill skip jumping the relay
Ill just take the car out tomorrow and see what it does.

[Henrik]

I glued my connectors to the plastic thing with double side tape and it's rock solid! no more worries about unplugging the plug!

Good idea!