Modify bellcrank for short throw shifting?

[FABombjoy]

Has any ever tried modifying the shift linkage bellcrank to shorten the shifts? Seems like if you moved the left-side stud closer to the center pivot, you could reduce the shift throw a bit.

I feel like the select throws are OK but would love to shorten the shifts.

[DMCMW Dave]

Has any ever tried modifying the shift linkage bellcrank to shorten the shifts? Seems like if you moved the left-side stud closer to the center pivot, you could reduce the shift throw a bit.

I feel like the select throws are OK but would love to shorten the shifts.

Thought about it, never did it.

You can only move the front/back and not the side-side that way. (Side/Side is via the cable). It would of course make the effort harder. And the pattern would be a bit strange unless you modified the cable linkage too.

If you have never replaced all the rubber bushings (and the plastic ones if they look bad) in the linkage, try that first you might be surprised how much good that does. They are often worn.

[FABombjoy]

Never had an issue with the selects but the shifts are fairly long. Changing just the shift throw is fairly common - made a world of difference on my Focus ST.

Switching to brass bushings is on the radar. I can definitely feel some slop when shifting during a hard corner.

[DMCMW Dave]

Never had an issue with the selects but the shifts are fairly long. Changing just the shift throw is fairly common - made a world of difference on my Focus ST.

Switching to brass bushings is on the radar. I can definitely feel some slop when shifting during a hard corner.

I'm familiar with other short shift kits (specifically BMW), but they don't have two complete linkage arrangements (a rod and a cable). So changing the shifter length impacts the throw in both the directions. Not sure about Fords.

I've thought about going to a "hard" link such as spherical rod ends too, I'm sure it would tighten up the shift but you'd get a lot more noise and vibration transmitted into the car interior.

If you really want to perk up the shift feel, remove the rubber frame cover 108903 that is UNDER the leather one. Early cars were shipped like this. The shifter will move much easier, BUT at a cost of rattling and lots more engine and transmission noise in the interior of the car. Which is why they added that part. It also seals up the hole in the frame although not much comes up there, you may notice more odors and hot fan wash in the interior as well.

OTOH if you are missing that part, adding it will quiet the car down a lot.

[Nicholas R]

If you really want to give this a try, you could do it for $25. Thats the price of the bellcrank for the automatic. Unlike the manual bellcrank which is about a 2:1 ratio for shifter movement to selector movement in the transmission, the automatic transmission bellcrank is 1:1 meaning you should only have to move the shifter half as far to get it into gear.

Here is the part:
http://store.delorean.com/p-9040-pivot-gearshift.aspx
http://store.delorean.com/images/Product/large/100824.JPG

For reference this is the manual bell crank:
http://store.delorean.com/p-8623-bellcrank-assy.aspx
http://store.delorean.com/images/Product/large/100549.JPG

Somewhere I have an automatic bell crank lying around with all of the stuff from when my car was an automatic. I always considered trying it out, but like Dave said, I always thought it would make the pattern a little odd, and might make finding neutral harder. Plus I dont really have a problem with the length of the shifts. Still, if you like the idea of a shorter throw, I say you should do it. :thumbup:

[FABombjoy]

Well look at that, it's almost too easy :)

Thanks for the suggestion, I'll add it to my list of things to buy!