Can you adjust the clutch pedal

[Lenny]

My Clutch pedal has to be pushed all the way to the floor. Is there a way to adjust that?

If I'm one inch from the floor I can't get it in gear.

Thanks,
Lenny

[dn010]

My Clutch pedal has to be pushed all the way to the floor. Is there a way to adjust that?

If I'm one inch from the floor I can't get it in gear.

Thanks,
Lenny

I believe there are parts you can buy (adjustable clevis) that allow the pedal to be adjustable. However, if you're that far from the floor and can't get it in gear, you've got bigger problems like a leak, bad master/slave cylinder or air in the system.

[Kozmatic]

Sounds like you need to diagnose the clutch system.... check out this post: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?12189-5-Speed-Manual-Downshifting-Issue&p=176769&viewfull=1#post176769

[Andrew]

Rob Grady sells a really nice adjustable clevis for just under $40. I have a new one on 4194 and an older one on 5052 and have been very happy with the results. Contact Rob for more info.

[Riley88]

Search the forum on how to check your clutch master and slave cylinder imo before you buying anything to adjust it

[David T]

Search the forum on how to check your clutch master and slave cylinder imo before you buying anything to adjust it

The short answer is NO. The long answer is, there was an adjustable link as per Service Bulletin ST-07-9/82 but it's intended purpose was to fix the problem caused by the plastic clutch line which it didn't do well anyway. The clutch is self-adjusting. If the master and slave cylinders are (1) not leaking and (2) you have the S/S braided hose and you still have problems you probably need to replace the clutch. Flush and bleed the clutch cylinders and if that doesn't fix you up figure a clutch job is in the near future. If you already have the adjustable link maybe it needs to be adjusted?

[Andrew]

The short answer is NO. The long answer is, there was an adjustable link as per Service Bulletin ST-07-9/82 but it's intended purpose was to fix the problem caused by the plastic clutch line which it didn't do well anyway. The clutch is self-adjusting. If the master and slave cylinders are (1) not leaking and (2) you have the S/S braided hose and you still have problems you probably need to replace the clutch. Flush and bleed the clutch cylinders and if that doesn't fix you up figure a clutch job is in the near future. If you already have the adjustable link maybe it needs to be adjusted?

IMO If your car has a non adjustable clevis, I would recommend trying an adjustable clevis before replacing the clutch. I've replaced both and found installing the clevis to be much easier. However, I concur with David's recommendation of confirming whether the slave and master are leaking. I would also add that clutch masters can also fail internally, causing a lack of pressure without leakage. In that instance the pressure shoots the fluid back into the reservoir.

[DMCMW Dave]

Clutch Failure Modes:
-Clutch master - leaks into the car (runs under the carpet). May work until it runs dry.
-Clutch master - leaks internally and blows back into the reservoir. No visible leaking, but the clutch won't disengage, so car is difficult/impossible to get in gear with the engine running.
-Reservoir hose - leaks all over the frame, runs the reservoir dry and air gets into the system.
-Plastic Clutch Line - will work fine most of the time. On a long hot drive it can expand and cause difficult shifting, but will go back to normal when cold. This is why they are typically changed to the braided line.
-Clutch slave - Common failure is that it leaks, runs out over the bellhousing and on to the frame. Will probably work until the fluid gets low at the master and air gets in.
-Clutch slave - Uncommon failure is that it leaks air in but no fluid out. Will cause a pedal that won't release all the way/hard to shift/feels spongy.
-Clutch disc - wears out. Will engage very high off the floor, may slip under hard acceleration. At final failure car will not move under its own power, and can be easily pushed in gear.
-Clutch pressure plate - goes "soft" and will not disengage the clutch. Rare.
-Clutch release bearing - gets noisy, typically with some pressure on the clutch pedal. Common. Typically replaced with the whole clutch assembly. Can fail completely causing a lot of noise and inability to release the clutch. Rare.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Rob Grady sells a really nice adjustable clevis for just under $40. I have a new one on 4194 and an older one on 5052 and have been very happy with the results. Contact Rob for more info.

Thanx for the plug Andrew. As others have said the clutch cylinders should be checked for leakage and the fluid level checked. A stainless braided clutch line is the best way to improve clutch release if the cylinders are in good shape. The adjustable link kit we have is a less expensive way to improve clutch release. If you have any questions you may contact us by PM, phone, or e-mail.
Rob

[David T]

Clutch Failure Modes:
-Clutch master - leaks into the car (runs under the carpet). May work until it runs dry.
-Clutch master - leaks internally and blows back into the reservoir. No visible leaking, but the clutch won't disengage, so car is difficult/impossible to get in gear with the engine running.
-Reservoir hose - leaks all over the frame, runs the reservoir dry and air gets into the system.
-Plastic Clutch Line - will work fine most of the time. On a long hot drive it can expand and cause difficult shifting, but will go back to normal when cold. This is why they are typically changed to the braided line.
-Clutch slave - Common failure is that it leaks, runs out over the bellhousing and on to the frame. Will probably work until the fluid gets low at the master and air gets in.
-Clutch slave - Uncommon failure is that it leaks air in but no fluid out. Will cause a pedal that won't release all the way/hard to shift/feels spongy.
-Clutch disc - wears out. Will engage very high off the floor, may slip under hard acceleration. At final failure car will not move under its own power, and can be easily pushed in gear.
-Clutch pressure plate - goes "soft" and will not disengage the clutch. Rare.
-Clutch release bearing - gets noisy, typically with some pressure on the clutch pedal. Common. Typically replaced with the whole clutch assembly. Can fail completely causing a lot of noise and inability to release the clutch. Rare.


If you are going to try and recount all of the ways the clutch can fail, here is another. If the car has been sitting for a LONG time the clutch can get stuck where even if you step on the pedal it won't release. Sometimes you can unstick it but sometimes it has to be disassembled. One of the most important things you an do to keep the clutch in good working order is to flush and bleed the clutch every other year.
Another failure mode: You step on the clutch and after a few minutes the car starts to move as the clutch engages even though you still have the pedal on the floor! The valve in the master cylinder leaked internally and released the slave, engaging the clutch. Happens when you are stopped at a light, in gear, waiting for it to change with your foot on the clutch and suddenly you find yourself moving!

[PJ Grady Inc.]

If you are going to try and recount all of the ways the clutch can fail, here is another. If the car has been sitting for a LONG time the clutch can get stuck where even if you step on the pedal it won't release. Sometimes you can unstick it but sometimes it has to be disassembled. One of the most important things you an do to keep the clutch in good working order is to flush and bleed the clutch every other year.
Another failure mode: You step on the clutch and after a few minutes the car starts to move as the clutch engages even though you still have the pedal on the floor! The valve in the master cylinder leaked internally and released the slave, engaging the clutch. Happens when you are stopped at a light, in gear, waiting for it to change with your foot on the clutch and suddenly you find yourself moving!

Well then you should have flushed you clutch more frequently then! Just kidding Dave I know you like to cover every possible scenario to a thread:)