View Full Version : General Newbie in need of assistance
Hi new here. I have pulled a non running car out of a 22 year slumber and am trying to revive it. The person I bought it from held onto it for sentimental reasons as previous owner had died and left some work unfinished. I just finished installing the new water pump and cleaning the VOD. I have found a hook shaped piece that looks as if it were a ground as well as a wiring plug wrapped around the engine support bar with nothing to connect it to. Any help would be great.
David T
07-20-2015, 09:59 PM
Hi new here. I have pulled a non running car out of a 22 year slumber and am trying to revive it. The person I bought it from held onto it for sentimental reasons as previous owner had died and left some work unfinished. I just finished installing the new water pump and cleaning the VOD. I have found a hook shaped piece that looks as if it were a ground as well as a wiring plug wrapped around the engine support bar with nothing to connect it to. Any help would be great.
The clip is just to hold the wiring in place. Some plugs are not used in every application, I am not completely sure about this particular plug but I think it is for the automatic. Since you are "waking" this car up figure on replacing/rebuilding the clutch hydraulics and the brakes. Flush ALL of the fluids and wipe out the fuel tank. Pressure test your work before putting the intake manifold back on. Replace every coolant hose including the ones to the heater.
Thanks. The car is a five speed and I replaced the slave cylinder all of the cooling and vacuum hoses while i was in VOD. The fuel system has been cleaned down to the injectors. Other issues at the moment are The cis has a stuck plunger. The fuel pump is good but it is not getting any voltage even the connector has been jumped.
bfloyd
07-21-2015, 01:20 AM
On your fuel pump, crawl under the dash and look to see if the inertia switch has been tripped . When I replaced my fuel pump earlier this year I found the previous owner had hacked into the fuel pump electrical harness and run another ground wire up to the horn bracket . When I saw that I immediately crawled under the dash and found the plunger to the inertia switch had been tripped. Pushed the plunger back down and the fuel pump worked perfectly .
David T
07-21-2015, 09:22 AM
On your fuel pump, crawl under the dash and look to see if the inertia switch has been tripped . When I replaced my fuel pump earlier this year I found the previous owner had hacked into the fuel pump electrical harness and run another ground wire up to the horn bracket . When I saw that I immediately crawled under the dash and found the plunger to the inertia switch had been tripped. Pushed the plunger back down and the fuel pump worked perfectly .
Also check that fuse #7 is not blown or melted out of the fuseblock. Less common, a bad connection at the plug in the wiring harness up where the W/washer bottle is. Jumper the RPM relay for testing purposes. To unstick the plunger take the metering unit apart and pull it, clean it up and put it back in.
Fuse 7 is good and have tested the relay. The dead spot is between the relay and the pump. I have determined the fuel distributor is seized so off for rebuilding it goes. I am hoping to fire this mule next week.
David T
07-21-2015, 09:07 PM
Fuse 7 is good and have tested the relay. The dead spot is between the relay and the pump. I have determined the fuel distributor is seized so off for rebuilding it goes. I am hoping to fire this mule next week.
Verify a good ground connection at the pump. Refer to D:04:06 for the wiring circuit for the fuel pump. If you do have power at #87 on the RPM relay but no power on the W/P wire at the fuel pump your problem is most likely the plug up in the windscreen washer bottle area. If you have no ground on the B/P wire at the fuel pump it can be the plug but it can also be a bad inertia switch or it's connection to ground. Check that the plunger on the inertia switch is down and the switch has a splotch of white paint on it and it is mounted to the footwell by the hood release (not on the Lambda switch).
dmruschell
07-26-2015, 12:28 AM
Fuse 7 is good and have tested the relay. The dead spot is between the relay and the pump. I have determined the fuel distributor is seized so off for rebuilding it goes. I am hoping to fire this mule next week.
The stock wiring from my RPM relay and the pump crapoed out on me and I had to run a new dedicated wire. Then, 9 months later, the ground side of the wiring crapoed out on me and I had to run a new wire.
A few weeks ago, I woke up a DeLorean from a 2 year slumber that started when the wiring from the RPM relay to the pump was only delivering 8 volts. So, it's not uncommon for that wiring to not function correctly.
Bitsyncmaster
07-26-2015, 05:09 AM
Voltage drop to the fuel pump is a common problem. Even with normal wiring, you get a drop over the stock wire harness. My car had a bad crimp on that fuse #7 terminal and a large drop over the two pin connector near the fuel pump. I removed that two pin connector which you rally don't need since you can just disconnect the wires on the pump terminals.
That still leaves the two pins (+ pump power and ground for pump) in the connector at the washer bottle. You also have the two pins at the inertia switch on the ground side for the pump.
dmruschell
07-26-2015, 09:23 AM
Voltage drop to the fuel pump is a common problem. Even with normal wiring, you get a drop over the stock wire harness. My car had a bad crimp on that fuse #7 terminal and a large drop over the two pin connector near the fuel pump. I removed that two pin connector which you rally don't need since you can just disconnect the wires on the pump terminals.
That still leaves the two pins (+ pump power and ground for pump) in the connector at the washer bottle. You also have the two pins at the inertia switch on the ground side for the pump.
On my car, I cleaned all of the contacts along the positive side and bypassed the inertia switch. After cleaning, the circuit worked just long enough for me to get halfway out of my driveway before it cut out again. I don't trust it. The person that I helped wasn't intimately familiar with the electrical system, so I figured a permanent solution was better for him than trying to fix a circuit that (from my experience on my car) is unreliable. I drive my car too much to risk being stranded. I wish the stock wiring on my D worked though.
David T
07-27-2015, 09:50 AM
On my car, I cleaned all of the contacts along the positive side and bypassed the inertia switch. After cleaning, the circuit worked just long enough for me to get halfway out of my driveway before it cut out again. I don't trust it. The person that I helped wasn't intimately familiar with the electrical system, so I figured a permanent solution was better for him than trying to fix a circuit that (from my experience on my car) is unreliable. I drive my car too much to risk being stranded. I wish the stock wiring on my D worked though.
There is nothing wrong with the stock set-up that can't be fixed and made reliable. The problem areas are:
The fuseblock #7 fuse
The RPM relay
The inertia switch
The wiring harness plug up inside the washer bottle
The plug and harness to the fuel pump.
This circuit usually has some of the more "creative" wiring fixes done by DPO's who didn't understand how to fix it correctly but went and fixed it up anyway.
Keep in mind the majority of Deloreans out there are running the stock wiring set-up and are just fine. If you are still having problems you just haven't gotten to and fixed the area that is causing YOUR problem yet.
dmruschell
07-27-2015, 12:38 PM
There is nothing wrong with the stock set-up that can't be fixed and made reliable. The problem areas are:
The fuseblock #7 fuse
The RPM relay
The inertia switch
The wiring harness plug up inside the washer bottle
The plug and harness to the fuel pump.
This circuit usually has some of the more "creative" wiring fixes done by DPO's who didn't understand how to fix it correctly but went and fixed it up anyway.
Keep in mind the majority of Deloreans out there are running the stock wiring set-up and are just fine. If you are still having problems you just haven't gotten to and fixed the area that is causing YOUR problem yet.
I've inspected the entire length of that circuit on my car. There are no previous owner fixes.
I'm still using fuse #7 with no signs of trouble. My fuse box doesn't show any signs of melting.
I'm using Dave McKeen's RPM relay, so no issues there.
I bypassed the inertia switch when this issue first popped up because the plug looked a little melted and I wanted to eliminate it as a variable.
I thoroughly cleaned the harness plug inside the washer bottle compartment.
I thoroughly cleaned the plug and harness to the fuel pump.
I have another DeLorean that is running just fine on the stock wiring setup. Just because the majority of DeLoreans might be running just fine on the stock wiring setup doesn't mean that it can't be unreliable or cause problems that aren't obvious and on your list. Many owners out there have modified the circuit because of melted fuse boxes or melted plugs, so there is obviously the potential for bad things to happen. I have fixed 2 DeLoreans with a problem on the with between the RPM relay and fuel pump within the last year.
My best guess on my car is that there's a break in the wire inside of the wire somewhere. I'm not going to bother finding the exact point where there may be a break in the wire. It's not worth it.
David T
07-27-2015, 01:18 PM
I've inspected the entire length of that circuit on my car. There are no previous owner fixes.
I'm still using fuse #7 with no signs of trouble. My fuse box doesn't show any signs of melting.
I'm using Dave McKeen's RPM relay, so no issues there.
I bypassed the inertia switch when this issue first popped up because the plug looked a little melted and I wanted to eliminate it as a variable.
I thoroughly cleaned the harness plug inside the washer bottle compartment.
I thoroughly cleaned the plug and harness to the fuel pump.
I have another DeLorean that is running just fine on the stock wiring setup. Just because the majority of DeLoreans might be running just fine on the stock wiring setup doesn't mean that it can't be unreliable or cause problems that aren't obvious and on your list. Many owners out there have modified the circuit because of melted fuse boxes or melted plugs, so there is obviously the potential for bad things to happen. I have fixed 2 DeLoreans with a problem on the with between the RPM relay and fuel pump within the last year.
My best guess on my car is that there's a break in the wire inside of the wire somewhere. I'm not going to bother finding the exact point where there may be a break in the wire. It's not worth it.
I pointed out the most common areas, obviously there can be a problem anywhere. The thing to do is to try to determine if it is on the power side or the ground side. At least then you can narrow down the possible causes. I would try to put the inertia switch back, it IS a safety device, after all.
dmruschell
07-27-2015, 02:41 PM
I pointed out the most common areas, obviously there can be a problem anywhere. The thing to do is to try to determine if it is on the power side or the ground side. At least then you can narrow down the possible causes. I would try to put the inertia switch back, it IS a safety device, after all.
As I said before, my car had an issue on the positive side, which I fixed by running a new wire from the RPM relay. Then, my car developed a problem on the ground side, which I fixed by running a new wire (directly to the frame). The plug for my inertia switch is partially melted (as I had also mentioned). I haven't been able to find a new plug, so until I can find one, I won't be using it.
On the other DeLorean that I fixed, the first thing I did was narrow down where the problem was. As I had said, the problem was between the RPM relay and the pump.
David T
07-27-2015, 03:36 PM
As I said before, my car had an issue on the positive side, which I fixed by running a new wire from the RPM relay. Then, my car developed a problem on the ground side, which I fixed by running a new wire (directly to the frame). The plug for my inertia switch is partially melted (as I had also mentioned). I haven't been able to find a new plug, so until I can find one, I won't be using it.
On the other DeLorean that I fixed, the first thing I did was narrow down where the problem was. As I had said, the problem was between the RPM relay and the pump.
You could just use spade terminals and connect the wires directly to the inertia switch without a plug. It is just messy to disconnect and reconnect that way. In my experience, if you have a problem with a wire in a harness, it doesn't stay limited to just that one wire. The best thing to do is find and fix the problem area before more wires cause you problems.
Bitsyncmaster
07-27-2015, 04:27 PM
FUEL PUMP GROUND TO FRAME
BENEFITS:
1) Increased fuel pump voltage by less voltage drop (less wire).
2) Removes one connector pin near the washer bottle. More reliable and opens for other uses.
3) Removes the 7 amp current flow in the inertia switch. No more burned inertia switches.
4) Removes the fuel pump ground current from the binnacle gauges. Your volt gauge is more accurate.
THE BAD:
Loss of fuel pump shutdown in an accident.
I did this frame ground in my car but connected the inertia switch to my battery cutoff relay which shuts down all power in an accident.
I'm going to do a circuit change to my RPM relay on the next order of boards. This change should let you wire the inertia switch to the RPM relay to shut down the fuel pump.
Horsebox
07-27-2015, 04:36 PM
Dmruschell,
If you are that convinced that your wiring to and from your fuel pump is sound, and you are still having problems, have a look at your pump.
David T
07-27-2015, 05:31 PM
FUEL PUMP GROUND TO FRAME
BENEFITS:
1) Increased fuel pump voltage by less voltage drop (less wire).
2) Removes one connector pin near the washer bottle. More reliable and opens for other uses.
3) Removes the 7 amp current flow in the inertia switch. No more burned inertia switches.
4) Removes the fuel pump ground current from the binnacle gauges. Your volt gauge is more accurate.
THE BAD:
Loss of fuel pump shutdown in an accident.
I did this frame ground in my car but connected the inertia switch to my battery cutoff relay which shuts down all power in an accident.
I'm going to do a circuit change to my RPM relay on the next order of boards. This change should let you wire the inertia switch to the RPM relay to shut down the fuel pump.
After an accident you may want the hazard flashers to be able to work and maybe the courtesy (interior) lights. Shutting down the whole electrical system isn't necessarily what you may want. Besides shutting off the fuel pump (the RPM relay should be doing that anyway if you shut the motor off) the inertia switch also will unlock the doors if the Central Locking System is working. If the ground is what you want to improve, run a wire from the inertia switch to a good ground by itself from the inertia switch to the frame. If you don't want the inertia switch to carry the load use a relay. Just saying, there are ways to keep the functionality intact and still improve the circuit. For me, as a personal preference, I do not like switching grounds, that is a European thing. I always liked switching on the power side. You could probably find a way to incorporate the inertia switch into the RPM relay circuit.
Bitsyncmaster
07-27-2015, 05:55 PM
After an accident you may want the hazard flashers to be able to work and maybe the courtesy (interior) lights. Shutting down the whole electrical system isn't necessarily what you may want. Besides shutting off the fuel pump (the RPM relay should be doing that anyway if you shut the motor off) the inertia switch also will unlock the doors if the Central Locking System is working. If the ground is what you want to improve, run a wire from the inertia switch to a good ground by itself from the inertia switch to the frame. If you don't want the inertia switch to carry the load use a relay. Just saying, there are ways to keep the functionality intact and still improve the circuit. For me, as a personal preference, I do not like switching grounds, that is a European thing. I always liked switching on the power side. You could probably find a way to incorporate the inertia switch into the RPM relay circuit.
I was assuming I would be incapacitated after the accident.
But if not, I can turn the power back on.
DMCMW Dave
07-27-2015, 06:43 PM
Some modern cars actually have a small explosive device to sever the battery connection to the car right as/after the airbags deploy. Apparently they aren't too worried about hazard flashers after an impact big enough to fire the bags.
David T
07-27-2015, 08:19 PM
Some modern cars actually have a small explosive device to sever the battery connection to the car right as/after the airbags deploy. Apparently they aren't too worried about hazard flashers after an impact big enough to fire the bags.
They still have inertia switches to shut the fuel pump off. I am guessing, but they probably discriminate between high impact and low impact and decide to fire the charge to disconnect the battery. They also have charges to pre-tension the seat belts. It is getting so if you have anything more than a minor accident the car will be totaled. I still believe in trying to keep the car (the Delorean) functioning as closely to how it was originally designed as possible. That includes the safety systems.
dmruschell
07-28-2015, 01:12 AM
Dmruschell,
If you are that convinced that your wiring to and from your fuel pump is sound, and you are still having problems, have a look at your pump.
My pump is fine, as evidenced by the fact that it started working immediately when a test lead was run from the battery + terminal to the pump. It has been working just fine since. While troubleshooting, we used a DMCH combo pump to rule out a faulty fuel pump. It didn't work either with the stock wiring. There was a LOT that went into troubleshooting that night that I don't feel like going through.
If my wiring was sound, then I wouldn't have had to run new wires to both terminals on my fuel pump. As I said before (I feel like I'm saying this a lot all of a sudden lol), there is a fault in my wiring between the RPM relay and the pump. However, I fixed all of the obvious things, as I mentioned in my response to David T, without success. If the fault is in the wire somewhere, it will be very hard to diagnose the trouble spot, so running a new wire is/was the best choice.
Please, everyone, stop trying to offer advice for this issue on my DeLorean. I've got it handled, and arrived at what the problems were and how to fix it (in some ways to be better than stock, like running the ground directly to the frame when the ground side stopped working properly) with the help of some very knowledgeable people. The only reason I even brought my car up is because the issue I had is similar to the issue that the OP has, and was also found an another car I fixed recently (I got to start that car after 2 years of not running due to this issue), in the hopes that this information would help the OP in his diagnosis. I've already diagnosed and solved my problem and the same problem on another DeLorean. Help the OP out, not me lol.
Been awhile but I am back
I am close to having the car complete. I replaced the Fuel dist. and have been struggeling to tune it. The idle will radomly climb to 3000 rpm on occassion and the idle will not settle below 1200 rpm without setting the mix rich rich rich. Micro switches are good functioning well, the brass screws are in and I am unable to locate any vacuum leaks. I also tried setting the mix by a dwell meter but am not seeing a consistant dwell signal from the diagnostic port as in no signal until I push the throttle and not always then. I am suspecting a bad Lambda ECU and probably should replace the O2 as well. Anyone have any other thoughts? This forum has good information and I have very good automotive experience but am new to Delorean.
Bitsyncmaster
09-22-2015, 04:39 PM
Been awhile but I am back
I am close to having the car complete. I replaced the Fuel dist. and have been struggeling to tune it. The idle will radomly climb to 3000 rpm on occassion and the idle will not settle below 1200 rpm without setting the mix rich rich rich. Micro switches are good functioning well, the brass screws are in and I am unable to locate any vacuum leaks. I also tried setting the mix by a dwell meter but am not seeing a consistant dwell signal from the diagnostic port as in no signal until I push the throttle and not always then. I am suspecting a bad Lambda ECU and probably should replace the O2 as well. Anyone have any other thoughts? This forum has good information and I have very good automotive experience but am new to Delorean.
Sounds like your idle system is not working. You can pull the idle motor, turn switch to on and you should see the idle motor moving slowly to either full open or full closed.
The FV should start at a fixed dwell with a cold engine no mater what the mixture is set to. Is the FV buzzing? Do you get a dwell reading when the engine is cold. It should also be a fixed dwell when you push the wide open throttle switch.
The idle motor has a buzz when the ignition is on. The dwell does not present a signal except for erratic moments. I have heard the fv buzz but will check it again tonight. The lack of dwell signal is what has me suspicious of the ecu.
Thanks for the fast feedback
Bitsyncmaster
09-22-2015, 06:22 PM
If your lambda is not working. First thing to verify is you have the correct relay installed into the main fuel relay (lambda relay). That one relay is different than all the others. Installing the wrong relay will make it stop working.
I did swap the relay with a spare NOS unit I had. Both tested well but no dwell signal at the diagnostic port. Done playing for the evening. Kinda wish it had a non feedback aluminum distributor like the Ferrari has.
From the lambda relay socket, no voltage at terminal 86 and ohms to ground is 22k from terminal 85. Clearly that is preventing the relay from switching over.
Bitsyncmaster
09-27-2015, 12:04 PM
From the lambda relay socket, no voltage at terminal 86 and ohms to ground is 22k from terminal 85. Clearly that is preventing the relay from switching over.
Typical relay coil resistance is 80 ohms. But the think the stock lambda relay is less than that because it runs very warm.
Just to clarify. I am talking the socket itself not the relay. The relays I have test good when used with a dvom and powerprobe. The socket terminal 86 should be receiving voltage from the rpm relay when the engine is running. The ground is concerning as well
Bitsyncmaster
09-27-2015, 01:30 PM
Just to clarify. I am talking the socket itself not the relay. The relays I have test good when used with a dvom and powerprobe. The socket terminal 86 should be receiving voltage from the rpm relay when the engine is running. The ground is concerning as well
The ground wires have been a problem on the front bank of relays. I guess the same problem could happen on the rear bank but it has fewer connections in the daisy chain so not as often a problem.
From the lambda relay socket, no voltage at terminal 86 and ohms to ground is 22k from terminal 85. Clearly that is preventing the relay from switching over.I can't remember if the Lambda Relay and RPM Relay have the same ground source..., but I'd chase the Lambda Relay's ground wire (85), and not be surprised if the RPM relay starts sending voltage (86) when it is fixed.
Bitsyncmaster
09-27-2015, 02:49 PM
I can't remember if the Lambda Relay and RPM Relay have the same ground source..., but I'd chase the Lambda Relay's ground wire (85), and not be surprised if the RPM relay starts sending voltage (86) when it is fixed.
I did a one off rear relay ground buss and the rear relays, RPM and I think one AUX relay use one ground wire running back to the ground group.
Wire yellow/red from rpm relay to lambda is dead. The harness looks good and I don't see any obvious breaks but I guess weirder things have happened.
Thanks Dave. You have provided good assistance.
Bitsyncmaster
09-27-2015, 06:21 PM
Wire yellow/red from rpm relay to lambda is dead. The harness looks good and I don't see any obvious breaks but I guess weirder things have happened.
Thanks Dave. You have provided good assistance.
It's those crimps into the socket pins using two wires on one pin. Same problem I found with the grounds. The crimp looks perfect but checked with an ohm meter it's bad.
I did recommend using a fuse on the one yellow/red wire going to the CPR heater.
Rewired and running with a loud buzz from the frequency valve so she is back in action. Dwell is floating between 45 and 53. It was a bad crimp at the rpm relay and dirty grounds. I might actually get to drive this car. I have a customers VW beetle and a 911 blocking me before I get to do so.
If anyone is looking for a good tool for electrical buy a power probe hook. Best tool in my electrical arsenal.
:thumbup: Good Job!!!
I think everyone here agrees that the most commonly spoken words when trouble shooting a D is, "Check your grounds"...next to, "It's always the grounds".;)
Now on to the idle issue. It stays steady between 1200/1500 rpm then will climb randomly to 3000 rpm. There are no vacuum leaks and the idle motor make a note able single click when the rpms climb. As stated before the micro switches are functioning throttle bodies are closed and brass screws are in. I am suspecting a fault perhaps a burned spot in the IAC. Does this sound correct?
Bitsyncmaster
09-28-2015, 03:59 PM
Now on to the idle issue. It stays steady between 1200/1500 rpm then will climb randomly to 3000 rpm. There are no vacuum leaks and the idle motor make a note able single click when the rpms climb. As stated before the micro switches are functioning throttle bodies are closed and brass screws are in. I am suspecting a fault perhaps a burned spot in the IAC. Does this sound correct?
So it randomly goes back and forth from 1200 to 3000 RPM? My guess would be your idle ECU is bad but first I would do the short circuit on the pins of the ECU for the temperature circuit.
That's a pricey issue. I will test/short the temp circuit. Wish I could find a spare to test with or even buy
Bitsyncmaster
09-28-2015, 04:08 PM
That's a pricey issue. I will test/short the temp circuit. Wish I could find a spare to test with or even buy
You would want to verify your idle motor is not shorted and then find another owner who would let you swap his ECU into your car. To check the idle motor just read the resistance from the center pin to each of the outside pins.
That's a pricey issue. I will test/short the temp circuit. Wish I could find a spare to test with or even buyI happen to have a spare Idle ECU to trade with and I probably need a lambda ecu (will know in a few days when I get one to swap for a test).
PM me if you wind up needing one.
If it's the ECU and you unplug it (catch it at lowest RPM), the wild RPM range should diminish greatly me thinks.
Pm sent
Shorted the ECU per Daves suggestion and no improvement. I also checked the resistance on the thermistor and resistance was dropping and temp went up so I am confident that is working as well as a signal from the distributor.
Bitsyncmaster
09-29-2015, 04:51 AM
If it's the ECU and you unplug it (catch it at lowest RPM), the wild RPM range should diminish greatly me thinks.
Good idea. I think the idle motor would hold where it is (unplug it at the idle motor first). It may not hold if you were running the car on the road because of vibration but have not tested that.
Does anyone rebuild these units? I know I can get the Ferrari Dinoplex and Digiplex ECUs rebuilt. It would be as a spare.
Bitsyncmaster
09-29-2015, 03:54 PM
Does anyone rebuild these units? I know I can get the Ferrari Dinoplex and Digiplex ECUs rebuilt. It would be as a spare.
I sell a microprocessor designed idle ECU. I use the old case and connector and put my new circuit board inside.
Good idea. I think the idle motor would hold where it is (unplug it at the idle motor first). It may not hold if you were running the car on the road because of vibration but have not tested that.
Yes and yes
So the car is running and I have put a few hundred miles on it. Question is the power band. The tach indicates a 6500 rpm redline but the power feels like it has fallen off at 5800. Is this normal or is there more tuning to do?
David T
10-12-2015, 02:16 PM
Redline is a never to exceed point. Power will drop off before that. As you go higher and higher in RPM's you start to get valve float, the valves never have enough time to fully close. You also can't get the fuel in and the exhaust out fast enough.
My mustangs factory redline was 5800 partially for the reason you stated with valve float but for as well breathing capabilities. It was the limit. Cam, intake, heads changed that dramatically. My current engine is about 7k in that car. I am just caught off guard that the factory put a red line well above the engines performance area. Still the question remains do most delorean pull strong to the redline? If so I need to dig into the tune if not it is a weird redline.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2026 vBulletin Solutions Inc. All rights reserved.