Tips on replacing a clutch?

[tjackson81]

I ordered a clutch kit from DMC and will be replacing it this weekend. I have the repair manual and a lift. Any tips for replacing the clutch that may not be in the manual?
Thanks

[David T]

I ordered a clutch kit from DMC and will be replacing it this weekend. I have the repair manual and a lift. Any tips for replacing the clutch that may not be in the manual?
Thanks

Be sure to remove the oil from the transmission before removing the transmission from the car. As long as it is out you should replace the roll pins on the shifter shaft, set the backlash in the final drive, and replace the output seals if they are leaking. Replace the pilot bearing too and if the flywheel has any scoring or blue spots it should be ground. The transmission has hollow dowel pins to the motor. Make sure they go back where they were. Keep track of the bolts, they are not all the same length. The little covers are a pain to remove but if you don't it won't come apart. The Workshop Manual is pretty good for this so follow it. Did you get an alignment tool? You really need it to get things back together easily.

[tjackson81]

The kit didnt come with an alignment tool. Will need to get one before the weekend. Thanks for the tips and quick response.

[DMCMW Dave]

Just remember if you decide to open up the trans (way more than just a clutch job) - the pictures in the manual show the ring gear backwards. Take photos as you take it apart.

If you follow the manual exactly you will have a car with 5 speeds in reverse and one forward.

Also - if you are just replacing the clutch I don't see any reason to drain the trans. Not a bad idea for general maintenance, but not necessary for a straight clutch replacement.

[Delorean Industries]

Unless you are dealing with a transmission related concern other than the clutch the advice above is incorrect. Do not drain the transmission gear oil for a clutch replacement. Never pull the lower drain plug without first ascertaining that the fill plug can be removed. Keep in mind that the less times you pull the drain plug the better. Multiple R&R of the plug will result in a leak. As Dave mentioned the work shop manual has many misprints including this one. The need for cracking the case halves should never be done just to check the pinon. If you are having issues with downshifting into second or other functionality concerns this would be the time. While the transmission is removed checking the primary/secondary shaft nuts is always a good idea. Again this is also an in car service option and is actually easier in car minus the removal/install of the cover itself.

Biggest word of advice on external components is the treatment of the drive axles: For years I have been harsh on shops (tv shows in general) who simply hang the drive axles from the outboard flanges. This puts all of the shaft weight on the boot flange causing distortions and clamp failure. While at first I thought this as a sign that someone "had been in there before" this isn't always the case. Mainly due to no one in their right mind reinstalling the lower flywheel guard plate after doing a clutch job. Or everything truly was original and untouched.

Recently light was shed on the hanging axle theory that has bothered me for over a decade now. In celebrating the impossible factory assembly pictures show frames going through production with drive axles hanging. Point is take the time to fully remove if boots and flanges are in good shape. Other wise you will be back in their again soon.

[David T]

I suggested you remove the oil because if you tip it over too far while removing it, you can pour the oil all over the place. I also suggested cracking the case open because as long as the transaxle is out you might as well do it all. If it is all your own, cheap labor, the other costs are minimal. I also agree that letting the half-shafts hang is terrible and WILL result in future problems. I would just take them out and regrease them and replace the boots. Yes, I know, I have turned a simple clutch replacement job into a drivetrain rebuilding project. Everyone will use their own good judgement and decide where to stop. The way I see it the car is over 30 years old and the parts I suggest replacing were never meant to last this long. C/V boots and grease are a LOT cheaper than C/V joints. It is a LOT of work to take the transaxle out just for a $0.25 roll pin. Of course a lot depends on each person's skill level, budget and time. Some people are scared of transmissions and won't think of opening one except to change the oil. You always have to watch out for the "While you are in there " syndrome and you can very quickly get carried away. The big reason I suggested replacing the pin is if you are a new owner and don't know how a Delorean is supposed to feel and drive, and the clutch is bad, you may not realize you have a big problem with that damm roll pin!

[tjackson81]

Ok, everything went smooth with the transmission removal. cleaned all the parts, installed new rear main seal, and pilot bearing. Installed the clutch and pressure plate with a clutch centering tool, installed new throw out bearing, lubed all the splines. I noticed when putting the transmission back in, the splines went in smooth. but with the transmission about 1 inch away from the engine block the throw out bearing was hitting the fingers of the pressure plate. So i removed the transmission and inspected the throw out bearing to see if it moved off of the slave cylinder arm, everything was perfect, so i put it back into the car. and same thing. With the transmission about 1 inch away from the block the TOB was hitting the pressure plate fingers. went ahead and installed the transmission to block bolts and tightened them evenly and everything went on smooth, dowel pins lined up perfectly and everything.

Bled the Slave cylinder until nice flow of fluid came out. Clutch pedal feels perfect. Start the car and it will not go into gear, But goes into all gears perfectly with the car off. Bled the clutch again, and again, same thing every time. Watched the throw out bearing and pressure plate through the inspection holes on the side of the transmission and saw the throw out bearing pressure the pressure plate a good amount. Ran out of time to work on it today so Im trying to brainstorm what it could be. This is definitely not my first clutch job, but it is my first clutch job on a DeLorean. Any advice would be great

[David T]

Ok, everything went smooth with the transmission removal. cleaned all the parts, installed new rear main seal, and pilot bearing. Installed the clutch and pressure plate with a clutch centering tool, installed new throw out bearing, lubed all the splines. I noticed when putting the transmission back in, the splines went in smooth. but with the transmission about 1 inch away from the engine block the throw out bearing was hitting the fingers of the pressure plate. So i removed the transmission and inspected the throw out bearing to see if it moved off of the slave cylinder arm, everything was perfect, so i put it back into the car. and same thing. With the transmission about 1 inch away from the block the TOB was hitting the pressure plate fingers. went ahead and installed the transmission to block bolts and tightened them evenly and everything went on smooth, dowel pins lined up perfectly and everything.

Bled the Slave cylinder until nice flow of fluid came out. Clutch pedal feels perfect. Start the car and it will not go into gear, But goes into all gears perfectly with the car off. Bled the clutch again, and again, same thing every time. Watched the throw out bearing and pressure plate through the inspection holes on the side of the transmission and saw the throw out bearing pressure the pressure plate a good amount. Ran out of time to work on it today so Im trying to brainstorm what it could be. This is definitely not my first clutch job, but it is my first clutch job on a DeLorean. Any advice would be great

Could you have installed the clutch plate facing the wrong way, or the throw-out bearing the wrong way or did the clutch fork come off the pivot? Refer to 4-3-0. With the TOB pressing on the clutch you should be getting in to gears but slipping because the clutch is not engaging. Did you compare the new parts with the old ones before putting them in?

[DMC5180]

The slave cylinder has a spring inside the bore that pushes the piston out, when the release fork is free hanging on its pivot prior to transmission to engine assembly. As the the assembly comes together, the TOB will make contact before the engine and housing come together. This is normal. As the bell housing gets closer to the engine. The TOB rests against the clutch fingers (with minimal pressure). The fork pivots and pushes the slave piston to the bottom of the bore. (Normal)

Your not going into gear issue makes me think that you have a mis-adjusted cross gate cable. Did you disconnect the cable by loosening the cable housing jam nuts?

[tjackson81]

Your not going into gear issue makes me think that you have a mis-adjusted cross gate cable. Did you disconnect the cable by loosening the cable housing jam nuts?

I didnt change any adjustments, car goes through all gears fine with engine off. It may just need to be bled more. I will try bleeding it again. Thanks for the info on the slave cylinder, that was the only part I wasnt familiar with.

[Aleksander]

I'm considering to do a similar job on mine soon, how did it work out in the end?

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[er1c]

Your not going into gear issue makes me think that you have a mis-adjusted cross gate cable. Did you disconnect the cable by loosening the cable housing jam nuts?

I didnt change any adjustments, car goes through all gears fine with engine off. It may just need to be bled more. I will try bleeding it again. Thanks for the info on the slave cylinder, that was the only part I wasnt familiar with.

Whaaat you cant leave it there what was the cause ?