Time to replace the power window motors?

[m_w]

I'm working through some of the electrical items that do not work on my car. Currently up is the power windows - neither of them do anything. I'm looking at the driver's side right now.

Power goes to the driver's side toggle switch in the console, and 12 volts are supplied to the appropriate connection on window motor. The motor does not spin or make noise, however. This means I need to replace the motor I assume? or are there additional tests to do? I see only the full regulator assembly for sale on DMCH's website, is just a motor not available? Has anyone had luck 'rebuilding' them?

[Mark D]

I don't recall having read about anyone rebuilding motors if they are completely inoperable. I think if the motor itself is dead it's probably time to replace the whole regulator assembly. If both of yours aren't moving at all it may be an electrical connection issue and not an issue with the regulator assembly. I'd open up the door and apply 12V to the motor itself to be absolutely sure it was dead before buying replacements. If it turns out to just be a wiring problem you could save yourself a lot of money.

I have heard of people successfully rebuilding the track on the regulator. I think someone used a copper pipe and sleeved over the top of the tube to keep the teeth between the gears meshed.

My motors are getting really slow and also grind gears with the window all the way up so at some point replacements are in my future. I'm also interested to hear if anyone else has had success in rebuilding or repairing.

[DMC5180]

I would pull the switches and probe the black wire in the connector for continuity to ground. While not impossible, it would seem odd neither motor turns when power is applied. All the switch does is change the polarity of 12v through the motors. Did you disconnect the motor connections before you tested for 12v?

[mluder]

Run 12 volts directly to the motor... That will tell you if the moor is alive. Swap positive and negative leads for forward and reverse.

Cheers
Steven

[Andrew]

Run 12 volts directly to the motor... That will tell you if the moor is alive. Swap positive and negative leads for forward and reverse.

Cheers
Steven


My guess is that there is something going on in the switch. It's a really odd design. Most of the window motor assemblies that I have seen either bind in the gears or have a broken elbow. Thus when they fail they will still make noise cause a current drop or both. Thus start with the switches.

I've had good success cleaning window switches, but it is a bit tricky to get them back together. I also cleaned and re-greased a window motor and repaired a broken regulator elbow. Following reinstallation the window goes up and down smoothly, quietly and quickly.

Best of luck!

[m_w]

To answer some questions -
- Yes, the switch is working properly, I have measured the resistance change when up or down is pressed, and I have measured 12v at the end of the lead (at the motor's connection pin) when the up or down is pressed on the switch.
- I have applied 12v directly to one of the tabs of the motor, with no reaction from the motor. Does the other tab need to be grounded? or is the motor itself grounded from the brace?
- I left off the detail that the motors didn't suddenly die simultaneously. They have sat for many, many years unused.

What I gather from the comments, is that most likely the motor is shot.

[DMC5180]

To answer some questions -
- Yes, the switch is working properly, I have measured the resistance change when up or down is pressed, and I have measured 12v at the end of the lead (at the motor's connection pin) when the up or down is pressed on the switch.
- I have applied 12v directly to one of the tabs of the motor, with no reaction from the motor. Does the other tab need to be grounded? or is the motor itself grounded from the brace?
- I left off the detail that the motors didn't suddenly die simultaneously. They have sat for many, many years unused.

What I gather from the comments, is that most likely the motor is shot.

Yes the pin in the motor connector must be grounded regardless of which terminal you apply 12v too in order to complete the circuit.

[m_w]

Yes the pin in the motor connector must be grounded regardless of which terminal you apply 12v too in order to complete the circuit.

Ah, I can try that yet - I was assuming a ground through the brace.

[Andrew]

The up/down direction of the motor is determined by the polarity of the input voltage. In my experience the motor itself does not need to be grounded for the circuit to work. The grounding is accomplished within the switch side of the circuit.

During my testing / rebuilding of the motor I disconnected the motor from the regulator via the 2 flathead screws. Then I ran the motor up and down with it dangling from the wires with the door open. Thus to check the circuit connect the leads of your tester to the motor leads. One direction should show roughly +12 then if you push the button the other direction the voltage should read roughly -12.

[JohnZ]

A quick question on this old thread: do the new motors for the Delorean windows weigh more than the stock ones? In other words: if I put the new motors on, how much weight will I add to the door?

I can't find any information on that....

[dn010]

A quick question on this old thread: do the new motors for the Delorean windows weigh more than the stock ones? In other words: if I put the new motors on, how much weight will I add to the door?

I can't find any information on that....

I recall the new assemblies being somewhat heavier compared to the original motor, regulator and bracket, but not overly so that I needed to readjust the doors. The new ones use a bit more metal than the old ones and were a pain in the ass to install. If you do get the new replacements, do yourself a favor and take the motor off before trying to put the regulator in, then reinstall the motor in the door. I found it absolutely impossible, and wasted a lot of time, trying to shove the regulator up into the door with the motor attached. Lining the bracketry up from the regulator to door at the end was awkward but they do work pretty well when it is all complete.

[JohnZ]

Ok thanks!

I recently replaced the door lock solenoids with the actuators, so I lost some weight there... I guess I'll get back the extra pounds with the motors then!

Thanks for the advice! My new motors are already on their way to my place... There's no turning back! :)

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