Adjustable rear links- product recommendations?

[DMC-81]

Hi there,

I'm shopping for rear adjustable links. I have a couple questions:

1) What products do you recommend?

2) Does Mid State still offer their lower links. If so, do you recommend them?

2) I see both upper and lower links available. Are both required for a lowered car, or is it really just the lower link? :hmm:

Any other suggestions?

Many thanks.

Dana

[Mark D]

For what it's worth you may not really need the adjustable links. After installing the Eibach rear springs on my car the camber was still in spec. I have SPAX adjustable rear shocks with the height setting about the same as the stock shocks, so the amount my car is lowered is equal to the difference between the stock springs and eibach springs.

Even if you go lower people run slightly negative camber without any major tire wear issues.

Here are a few pics of my car's ride height as a point of comparison.
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=36162&d=1439900530

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=36163&d=1439900530

[Nicholas R]

I went with adjustable rear links because I have Eibach Springs and the height I wanted gave me around 4° of negative camber, which is about 3.5° past spec. Mine came from Marty Maier and theyre great; however, you do have to send him yours. Cliff Schmucker and I sent him several sets at once because Cliff had extras so I didn't have to pull mine until we installed the new ones. I'm not sure if Marty has ones he can sell you, then receive yours as a core, or if he needs yours up front. Obviously that could be a pain since the car would have to be off the road while they're being modified.

[SS Spoiler]

I have a set of Don Stegers first adj. control arms. These don't have the turnbuckle
Feature that Marty's do. In order to make any suspension changes you need to drop
one end off the hub and guess how far you need to turn it to align the wheel. I called
Don and he said give it three turns, know what....it was dead on. Marty's setup is the
way to go.

[jmettee]

I have the upper adjustable links, from Grady. I went with them for 2 reasons: you don't see the link join/adjustment nut hanging under the car (and it doesn't get bombarded with road debris) AND the upper link is under constant compression. Having the upper link in compression means if it comes loose, it will just add negative camber. The lower link coming loose will try to pull apart. Granted this usually doesn't happen, but Oliver Holler had it happen to his lower link about a year ago. Dangerous situation that was caught just in time.

I don't have the rear lowered, but my stock parts were not within alignment spec (for whatever reason). I had an equal amount of excessive negative camber that I had to compensate for when I got new tires.

[BABIS]

I have the upper adjustable links, from Grady. I went with them for 2 reasons: you don't see the link join/adjustment nut hanging under the car (and it doesn't get bombarded with road debris) AND the upper link is under constant compression. Having the upper link in compression means if it comes loose, it will just add negative camber. The lower link coming loose will try to pull apart. Granted this usually doesn't happen, but Oliver Holler had it happen to his lower link about a year ago. Dangerous situation that was caught just in time.

I don't have the rear lowered, but my stock parts were not within alignment spec (for whatever reason). I had an equal amount of excessive negative camber that I had to compensate for when I got new tires.

very interesting!

anyway, both are available from DPI http://www.deloreanindustries.com/16-adjustable-lower-control-arms-rear/ http://www.deloreanindustries.com/36-top-link-arm-adjustable-pair/

[DMC-81]

For what it's worth you may not really need the adjustable links. After installing the Eibach rear springs on my car the camber was still in spec. I have SPAX adjustable rear shocks with the height setting about the same as the stock shocks, so the amount my car is lowered is equal to the difference between the stock springs and eibach springs.

Even if you go lower people run slightly negative camber without any major tire wear issues.

Here are a few pics of my car's ride height as a point of comparison.


Thanks Mark. That is interesting. I like your car's stance... Very nice. That is what I'm hoping to achieve.

Based on the comments so far, I think I will put the springs and shocks on first and see if I need the links. If so, I like Justin's reasoning around the upper links, but will also consider Marty's based on recommendations.

So for a lowered car, can I just use the upper link?

Thank you very much everyone for the comments and recommendations so far. :thankyou:

[PJ Grady Inc.]

very interesting!

anyway, both are available from DPI http://www.deloreanindustries.com/16-adjustable-lower-control-arms-rear/ http://www.deloreanindustries.com/36-top-link-arm-adjustable-pair/

While we also carry both uppers and lowers I also favor the upper adj. links for Justin's reasons and a couple more. Since the uppers carry a constant sideload it is to an owners advantage to replace the bushings, new ones are included, at same time. The lowers are usually good.
Additionally the uppers are easier to install. That makes four valid reasons to go with the uppers. I have them in stock at the moment.
Rob

[Nicholas R]

Are you able to adjust the upper link with the tire on the car? The lowers are cake.

[DMC-81]

Are you able to adjust the upper link with the tire on the car? The lowers are cake.

That's a good point Nick. I'd need that to be a yes for a regular alignment job.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Are you able to adjust the upper link with the tire on the car? The lowers are cake.
Not as quickly but yes. That's the only advantage I can think of for the lowers but unless you're doing the Cannonball Run or somesuch it doesn't really matter! At worst you'll pay for some extra time for an alignment but you shouldn't need to readjust after you've allowed for the ride height correctly.
Rob

[Delorean Industries]

We build all of our cars with everything as adjustable as possible. With that said we simulate ride height/body load before mating GRP and rolling chassis load. rarely other than a small steering wheel adjustment do we need to adjust anything further. The added camber adjustment is crucial in the rear to us. Only taking out of top or bottom doesn't achieve perfection.

[Nicholas R]

Not as quickly but yes. That's the only advantage I can think of for the lowers but unless you're doing the Cannonball Run or somesuch it doesn't really matter! At worst you'll pay for some extra time for an alignment but you shouldn't need to readjust after you've allowed for the ride height correctly.
Rob

Hey man, I was just on the phone with Burt Reynolds last week about filming Cannonball Run III with a DeLorean instead of the Countach; it just might matter!! :wink::burnout::burnout:

(And I'm not talking about that terrible "Speed Zone!/Cannonball Fever/Cannonball Run III John Candy movie from 1989, haha)