View Full Version : Engine Starting..or not, rather....
Lwanmtr
08-22-2015, 05:49 PM
Ok, Im trying to breath life back into my car....
Has Fuel..Fuel getting to the engine...good spark...but no start
I been searching the engine bay, looking for loose connections, etc. Any thoughts, suggestions, etc?
I did find this (see pic) at the front of the engine..not connected to anything, and I cant see any loose lines in the area...What is it and could it be a
culprit?
36298
Thanks
Bitsyncmaster
08-22-2015, 06:22 PM
That photo is the vacuum advances solenoid. On a stock engine, it turns the vacuum advance off at idle.
Fuel, spark and compression, if you have those than the ignition timing must be off to not start.
Lwanmtr
08-22-2015, 06:31 PM
Havent checked compression. Some things you need an assistant for...hehe. What should the compression be? Ill have to try and recruit someone.
That Vacuum Advance Solenoid isnt hooked up to anything, and I cant locate any connections that would go to it.
And a total noob question....how do I adjust the timing? Its not laid out like any motor I had before..lol
sdg3205
08-22-2015, 07:23 PM
There are two vacuum hoses and a harness that will say "Volvo" you need to locate to get the solenoid functioning. If not hooked up your timing will be advanced at start up.
Vacuum routing is on the underside of the engine cover. See it?
The hoses should be easy to find. They are probably lying at the back on the engine. One comes off the distributor itself
sdg3205
08-22-2015, 07:23 PM
Don't play with the distributor until you've got the solenoid working.
Lwanmtr
08-22-2015, 08:02 PM
There are two vacuum hoses and a harness that will say "Volvo" you need to locate to get the solenoid functioning. If not hooked up your timing will be advanced at start up.
Vacuum routing is on the underside of the engine cover. See it?
The hoses should be easy to find. They are probably lying at the back on the engine. One comes off the distributor itself
No label on the engine cover at all...hehe.
Ill try and crawl under there and see if I can find those hanging down or something.
Thanks
Lwanmtr
08-22-2015, 08:22 PM
I found one hose and harness that fit (does it matter which way the plugs are?).
The hose I found was a thick hose.
I found a part with where a hose would be on it at the front of the engine (see pic)...does that have a hose going to that solenoid?
36299
Thanks
PS: Whats the size of hose I need?
Jonathan
08-22-2015, 08:57 PM
Ok, Im trying to breath life back into my car....
Has Fuel..Fuel getting to the engine...good spark...but no start
What means did you use to confirm you have fuel and to confirm you have spark?
I been searching the engine bay, looking for loose connections, etc. Any thoughts, suggestions, etc?
I did find this (see pic) at the front of the engine..not connected to anything, and I cant see any loose lines in the area...What is it and could it be a
culprit?
36298
Thanks
Try this photo here and links below it. It doesn't have all the connections shown but should help at least a little.
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?10336-Assorted-helpful-technical-photos&p=165043&viewfull=1#post165043
There are two vacuum hoses and a harness that will say "Volvo" you need to locate to get the solenoid functioning. If not hooked up your timing will be advanced at start up.
Vacuum routing is on the underside of the engine cover. See it?
The hoses should be easy to find. They are probably lying at the back on the engine. One comes off the distributor itself
Here is the vacuum hose routing JPG:
36301
You can buy a label set here from DMCX for replacing any you are missing:
http://store.delorean.com/p-10194-label-set-1981.aspx
I found one hose and harness that fit (does it matter which way the plugs are?).
The hose I found was a thick hose.
I found a part with where a hose would be on it at the front of the engine (see pic)...does that have a hose going to that solenoid?
36299
Thanks
PS: Whats the size of hose I need?
This photo to me looks like it shows an auto trans dipstick. If your car is an auto, there is an interlock to get the car to start with the necessity for the shift lever to be all the up and fully into P. Not sure this would be it if you are indeed getting fuel and spark, but if the lever isn't all the way in position, it won't let itself start.
Lwanmtr
08-22-2015, 09:09 PM
Thanks. Yeah, that Picture helped. Im missing the Hose from the Spark Advance on the distributor to the solenoid...Can anyone tell me what size that
hose is, so I can go to oreily's or somewhere and pick up replacement?
It is an automatic, shifter is all the way forward.
sdg3205
08-22-2015, 09:31 PM
The picture shows you have no hose off the timing advance mechanism of the distributor. I can see the barb where the hose should be!
Lwanmtr
08-22-2015, 10:32 PM
Yeah..went to oreilys got a hose...she tried to go for a moment.
I think the ignition switch needs looked at (previous owner has it zip tied in and you have to kinda hold it weird to start)...was hoping to wait until I
got it to dmcnw to deal with that part..but looks like I need to see whats up with that thing now.
Enough on it for tonight..lol
I did manage to put the carpet and driver seat back in, so a bit o progress..lol
DMC5180
08-22-2015, 11:19 PM
It always amazes me how f'd up these car can be from Previous Owners. But then again we didn't always have the Internet to go to for the answers either.
Lwanmtr
08-23-2015, 12:11 AM
Yeah. Even worse its like putting a puzzle together when you dont know exactly what its supposed to look like...hehe.
Hoping I can get the ignition sorted without buying a new one. I know there's supposed to be a screw somwhere that holds it in place. But not sure where.
Anyone have a picture showing where that is? I have a feeling its there, just sheared off or something.
Sucks most not having someone local who can come around and help out with stuff I dont know (hmm...that is alot...lol)
sdg3205
08-23-2015, 12:24 AM
You are in one of the most heavily Delorean populated areas! Have you joined the PNDC?
Lwanmtr
08-23-2015, 12:39 AM
Ahh yeah..not yet..keep forgetting..lol.
Jonathan
08-23-2015, 12:45 AM
Yeah. Even worse its like putting a puzzle together when you dont know exactly what its supposed to look like...hehe.
Hoping I can get the ignition sorted without buying a new one. I know there's supposed to be a screw somwhere that holds it in place. But not sure where.
Anyone have a picture showing where that is? I have a feeling its there, just sheared off or something.
Sucks most not having someone local who can come around and help out with stuff I dont know (hmm...that is alot...lol)
Do you see the tiny screw head just in from the leftside? On the centreline so to speak and maybe about 1 cm or 3/4 inch from the end? That tiny screw grabs the black plastic round end of the electrical portion sticking out the back and holds it in place (I think... I haven't had mine apart in a couple seasons.). I can get my old one out of a box and take better photos tomorrow if you need more help with it. If that cylindrical black end piece has too much wiggle in it, it tends to cut out the continuity and shut the engine off (or not let you start it).
36302
...agreed on the unknown puzzle... and with no edge pieces either!
Lwanmtr
08-23-2015, 01:14 AM
Ahh Yeah, I can see that lil screw. I think I saw that on mine.
There is a ton of play, the whole thing will shift out 1-2mm, in addition to requiring to kind of turn the back toward you while turning the key to start it.
Last couple times I did it, one of the connectors starting shorting I could hear some alarm (or horn?) until I wiggled the electrical end a bit.
tomorrow I'll pull it apart and look at the plastic. Hopefully I dont need to buy a new one, since theyre $130 or such.
DMC5180
08-23-2015, 07:41 AM
Alarm or horn? Probably the ignition key buzzer sounding off intermittently. Sort of sounds like a dying cat. You can kill it by disconnecting the purple/white wire at one of the left hand door switches. It's the same purple/ white wire you see attached to the single side terminal on the ignition switch housing.
Jonathan
08-23-2015, 08:53 AM
Good call Dennis... figure out what the alarm noise is. If it's the dying cat buzzer, ok, just annoying. But if it is some aftermarket alarm that might have its own interlock not helping you get it started, it'd be worth checking out.
Post a pic of your engine bay perhaps, as that is where they are often mounted. Or in under the brake fluid reservoir panel, as that's where I had one mounted when I got my car.
Ruling out that wiggly ignition switch could be the only problem... or just making it harder for you to find several. You have a lot of things going on with your car right now! Try to fix/isolate each one before moving on to the next.
sdg3205
08-23-2015, 12:34 PM
I have seen quite a few ignitions with intermittent dying cats.
I left mine hooked up. It's like having the car clap for me and my originality complex every time I get behind the wheel. Hahah.
But in all seriousness, the ignition tumbler is probably fine, and the intermittent dying cat buzzer is no reason to replace the whole shebang.
Lwanmtr
08-23-2015, 05:47 PM
I pulled the Ignition electrical part out...looks ok.
Is the screw suppoed to fit into a hole on it, or just press against it?. There is a smallhole near where the screw would go in (though it looks too small)
and jusding by the marks above it, looks like the screw was just pushing on it. I even tried to put it back in and use the screw..couldnt align with that
hole.
Seems they woulda put a more secure way to hold that in place...ahh well.
Yeah, the switch is probably good..it just wont stay in..lol
Lwanmtr
08-23-2015, 06:23 PM
Here's a pic of the switch. You can see the marks above and below the hole (which is too small for the screw?).
36313
Any Tips on this welcome. Thanks
DMC5180
08-23-2015, 06:31 PM
What does the wire side look like and shaft end look like?
Lwanmtr
08-23-2015, 06:48 PM
Here's the two ends of the swtich...Look ok to me..but....lol
3631436315
Thanks
DMC5180
08-23-2015, 06:59 PM
Given the age of things, i guess the green on the brass terminals is to be expected. I do wonder about the copper contacts inside the shaft socket though. (Their purpose) I think One of the DMC vendors needs to chime in on this since they are more likely to see issues with ignition switches. I've never had issues with mine so I haven't needed to mess with it.
Lwanmtr
08-23-2015, 07:08 PM
I never had to deal with ignition swtich on any car I had, so definately new to me on this. Would be nice to see what Its supposed to look like in there
on a new one (without shelling out the $130)...just to know if mine's munged..it was zip-tied to hold it in, so Im assuming it had been pulled for some
reason and not put back in properly.
Still...its on my list as a possible 'have to buy' item, so it wont be too big a shock when I have to order it.
Ill shoot an email off to Toby at DMCNW tonight, maybe he'll be able to tell me from the pictures.
DMCMW Dave
08-23-2015, 11:58 PM
Ignition switch is a very rare failure, and you can hard-wire around it to make sure that's not it. Not a good part to shotgun, do some troubleshooting.
Lwanmtr
08-24-2015, 02:15 AM
Its not that i think the switch is bad, its that its not sitting secure in the housing, and have to hold it and turn it while turning the key....the amount of pressure needed has been getting more...and it slips easier...so I need to find out if something is either missing or even if there is something worn/sheared off on the inside where the post inserts into it.
Lwanmtr
08-25-2015, 01:22 AM
Solved my key problem at least temporarily....thanks to a screwdriver....Much easier now to try and start...
Anyhoo....
When I try to start it, after letting it sit a bit, it will try to run for a few seconds (though not smoothly). Then I have to let it sit for a short time again before I try.
Any thoughts?
sdg3205
08-25-2015, 01:49 AM
Solved my key problem at least temporarily....thanks to a screwdriver....Much easier now to try and start...
Anyhoo....
When I try to start it, after letting it sit a bit, it will try to run for a few seconds (though not smoothly). Then I have to let it sit for a short time again before I try.
Any thoughts?
Isn't your vacuum advance solenoid still unplugged? I know you said you got some new hose, but since one of those hoses originates from the dreaded y-pipe you're still peeing into the wind until you've fixed the vacuum leak and timing issue.
Lwanmtr
08-25-2015, 01:55 AM
All the vacuum hoses are present and plugged..went through them all to make sure I hadnt missed any. Though I'll admit I find something new thats unplugged or diconnected everytime I look...lol
sdg3205
08-25-2015, 02:00 AM
All the vacuum hoses are present and plugged..went through them all to make sure I hadnt missed any. Though I'll admit I find something new thats unplugged or diconnected everytime I look...lol
Can you make a video of the starting issue? Sounds like its just firing off the CSV.
Lwanmtr
08-25-2015, 02:26 AM
I can try tomorrow to make a vid..have figure out how to prop my phone so it dont fall off if the car shakes..hehe.
Not ruling anything out at this point...
I think the previous owner was smoking some good crack, given some of the things I've found disconnected, missing, etc
I found another connector (similar to the one on the solenoid marked volvo), but no where it seems to plug into...then there are a couple
of errant single end connectors floating about..Theres a wire off the AC that there's no connection (i think they wired the fans to come on all the time)..and of course an extra
red connector with no matching place to go and the left coolant line into the waterpump is..ehm..wrong because it would rub the ac belt (if it was on)...lol
My goal is to be running even if just enough to limp it the 45 miles to dmcnw for a proper inspection and work (trying to avoid having to pay for a tow there).
sdg3205
08-25-2015, 02:32 AM
I can try tomorrow to make a vid..have figure out how to prop my phone so it dont fall off if the car shakes..hehe.
Not ruling anything out at this point...
I think the previous owner was smoking some good crack, given some of the things I've found disconnected, missing, etc
I found another connector (similar to the one on the solenoid marked volvo), but no where it seems to plug into...then there are a couple
of errant single end connectors floating about..Theres a wire off the AC that there's no connection (i think they wired the fans to come on all the time)..and of course an extra
red connector with no matching place to go and the left coolant line into the waterpump is..ehm..wrong because it would rub the ac belt (if it was on)...lol
My goal is to be running even if just enough to limp it the 45 miles to dmcnw for a proper inspection and work (trying to avoid having to pay for a tow there).
That other "Volvo" connector ought to connect to the thermotime switch FOR the CSV on the water pump. Double check that. This assumes the harness is not a disaster and it is close to the water pump and easily routed. Don't worry about the AC wiring yet.
Lwanmtr
08-25-2015, 02:40 AM
The 2nd volvo connector is near the front of the engine...same place as the one thats plugged into the solenoid. I did try and fish around to find an a place it would pug into, but
couldnt find one (doesnt mean I didnt just miss it)..It would never reach the water pump, waay too short.
Yeah, not worrying about the ac or anything non essential.
sdg3205
08-25-2015, 11:03 AM
The 2nd volvo connector is near the front of the engine...same place as the one thats plugged into the solenoid. I did try and fish around to find an a place it would pug into, but
couldnt find one (doesnt mean I didnt just miss it)..It would never reach the water pump, waay too short.
Yeah, not worrying about the ac or anything non essential.
If both of those two pin Volvo plugs are behind the engine (between the engine and firewall) then either there's something about the Auto I'm not familiar with OR someone has done a poor job running your engine harness. That could also mean your idle speed switch, WOT switch, oil light switch and trans kick down switches are not connected.
DMC5180
08-25-2015, 11:09 AM
Check to see if the thermo-time switch is connected. Brass bodied sensor located on the left side of the water pump body.
Lwanmtr
08-25-2015, 03:33 PM
Would the oil light on the dash be on if that wasnt connected?
Ill look for that on the water pump when I get to working on it in a bit.
And yeah, wouldnt be surprised if the harness was poorly put in...as I said, I think the guy was on crack...hehe
DMC5180
08-25-2015, 03:38 PM
No, oil light switch is on the left side of engine opposite of the oil filter location.
Oil light is the ground point for the light circuit.
Lwanmtr
08-25-2015, 03:40 PM
I just meant if the oil light switch on the engine isnt connected, would it come on when the key is turned?
DMC5180
08-25-2015, 03:42 PM
It should not, unless the wire is pinched or the ring terminal is touching the block.
Lwanmtr
08-25-2015, 03:46 PM
Ok, when I get to it, Ill look for those things. Thanks
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