Removing Pivot Bolt from Rear Hub Carrier

[Turtlebarbeque]

So I managed to get the left rear suspension apart but the pivot bolt on rear hub carrier does not want to cooperate. It doesn't appear as though this bolt is threaded through the rear hub, does it just get hung up on the bushing? Question is; how do I get the pivot bolt out? Is it just a matter of brute force and I have to whack the crap out it or does the bushing play a role or did I somehow warp or bend the bolt and I am in trouble. Pics included (and clearly, I have no idea what I am doing - this is not repair, just dismantling the car). (follow up question will be, how do you get the shock-spring-platform apart, the nuts on top of the insulator just turn the whole darn shock - but I can save that for another day so I don't confuse the reader or myself).

Thanks in advance for any help.
Russell

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[jangell]

I've removed the link arms from the carriers before, and they're in there really tight, at least on my car. The hole is not threaded. After making sure that I could spin it with a wrench, my solution wound up being to place a block of wood against the end of the bolt (to protect it a little), and tapping it out with a hammer. Once the end of the bolt is inside the hole in the hub (so you can't hit it with the block anymore), you can either use a punch or another bolt or something to continue to tap the bolt out, or place the block of wood against the inside of the bolt head and tap it out there. Turning the bolt while tapping it can make it easier to remove.

It's getting it back in that's the real PITA. You have to get everything lined up perfectly, and often turn the bolt with a wrench to get it to through even though it isn't inside a threaded hole. I also found that the bolt would get hot due to the friction, so don't burn yourself. I have a small section here (http://www.tmproductions.com/repairs-and-maintenance-blog/2015/4/19/reinstalling-the-engine-and-transmission) (search for "Re-Installing the Upper Link Arm") about how I did it recently.

-- Joe

[Turtlebarbeque]

I wasn't sure the simple solution was brute force, I wanted to make sure I didn't do any damage to the......not really sure what I can damage. So, thanks...I will eat my oatmeal, grab the mini sledge and a block and send the pivot bolt into the underverse. I am not putting it back together so I don't have to worry about step 2. Thanks again for your timely answer.

[jangell]

I think the main concern is not damaging the head of the bolt with the hammer such that you can't get a nut on it, and not to flatten the other end of the bolt so that it won't fit through the whole again. The block of wood is softer so it should take the impact instead of the bolt.

I was worried about brute forcing it as well, but I couldn't see any other way to get it out.

-- Joe

[dn010]

As I warned in a similar thread - I know the first instinct is to "just beat on it" however use caution when using a hammer on the link bolts. The last thing to worry about is the bolt - if you're hammering on them you will risk breaking an ear off of the aluminum hub carrier. It's less expensive to destroy the bolt by cutting it into sections in order to remove it (expense being a replacement bolt) then it is to replace the hub carrier because you cracked it. Ask me how I know...

[jangell]

Good point. I guess "carefully tap" is a better way to describe removing the bolt. I also had a broken hub carrier once, although my friend was doing the repair at the time so I don't remember exactly what caused it. I think that was from over-tightening the nut on the bolt, though, not from trying to remove it.

-- Joe

[delgato]

I am having this same issue right now as well.

I was thinking about taking the whole part to a shop and see if they could use a press to get it out.

Not sure if that is a good option but seems it might be safer for the hub part than banging on it.

I can get the bolt to spin in the hub section, it is just stuck in the inside sleeve of the bushing on the arm.

Maybe cutting the bolt is not a bad idea the more I think of it.

[DMC5180]

I assume the bolt is corroded to the aluminum ears. In this case I would take it to a shop with a press and a torch to heat the ears while applying press force. The important thing is to set the assembly up correctly in the press. I would suggest setting it up with a 3/4" or 19mm deep impact socket. This will allow the head of the bolt to be pushed down into the socket. You should be able to get a couple inches of movement on the bolt. Once it's no longer seized you should be able to spin the bolt to work it the rest of the way out.

[dn010]

The post above says the issue is the inner collar of the bushing is fused to the bolt. Easiest thing to do is just cut the bolt in that case - heat up the bushing until the rubber melts off and you'll have access to it. If it is corroded to the aluminum ears you can still cut the bolt and press the bolt section out with the corroded collar on it like you already said, support it carefully though.


I assume the bolt is corroded to the aluminum ears.

[DMC5180]

Correction: I did not notice the steel bushing pressed into casting. The split style bushing is clearly visible where the upper link attaches. Although I can't verify a steel bushing in both ears.

The photos posted would indicate the bolt is frozen in the casting bushings (not in direct contact with the aluminum) and arm bushing given that the arm is in the static installed position.

Start with soaking the crap out of things with your favorite penetrant. My favorite is Aero-Kroil.

If no luck with penetrant, move on to pressing at local shop or auto parts store. Most AP stores have basic equipment in the back to aid customers.

As a last resort cut it apart as mentioned above.

Even if you go straight to cutting you will still likely need to use a press to get some pieces out.

[dn010]

I believe all of the ears have the inserts. When you tighten the bolt, the inserts push inwards and that is what is holding your bushing stationary instead of rotating with the whole mass. When you remove your links to install bushings etc, if you push those carrier inserts back outwards it is much easier to reinstall everything, the links/bushings aren't trying to squeeze between them.

[DMC5180]

I believe all of the ears have the inserts. When you tighten the bolt, the inserts push inwards and that is what is holding your bushing stationary instead of rotating with the whole mass. When you remove your links to install bushings etc, if you push those carrier inserts back outwards it is much easier to reinstall everything, the links/bushings aren't trying to squeeze between them.

Agreed. Although I have seen applications where only one bushing is used to provide squeeze movement. Some alternators are set up like this.

[dn010]

You are correct, just looked at my spare carriers and only one per bolt.

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[MNT250]

I have a post about this in general from a couple weeks ago. I ended up having to use a sawzall and cut the bolt in between the lower link arm and the hub carrier then I removed the arm from the car, I wasn't able to get the bushing out and the bolt appeared to be entirely fused with the middle of that bushing and wasn't going anywhere. I struggled to get the bushing out but I wasn't able to. I burned out the rubber, cut down the sides trying to collapse it, nothing.. I was able to take it to the shop, get it removed, then buy a new bolt and bushing, they had to use a hydraulic press to install the new bushing. I tried to install it myself prior to that with a vice and I broke the vice. My car had ebiach springs and struts installed 4 years ago so the condition of my bolts and everything looked a lot newer than yours as well. You might have to end up going the same route as me.