Losing my (steering box 14) bearings - how to reassemble

[DrJeff]

I've been doing a refurbish on the steering rack and took apart the steering box. Suffice to say everything came apart fine, but I'm running into trouble trying to reassemble the steering box. I'm using the "assemble the pinion upside down with the bearing races held in place and insert from below into the pinion channel" method - sounds like a plan except the outer bearing guide keeps getting stuck. The tolerances between the bearing guide and steering box channel are very tight. The frustrating part is that any untoward movement causes the bearings to fall out of the races.

Any one have experience and clues to success to reassemble the bearing races in the steering box?

Thanks
Jeff

[DMC5180]

Most people don't completely disassemble them.

My suggestion would be to install the lower (bottom) cup race into the housing then place the ballbearings into the cup with grease to hold the bearings in place. Then insert the shaft down into the housing. You may also need to use the grease method on the upper bearings too.

[Mark D]

Check to make sure the inner cylindrical surface of the rack housing is smooth...run your finger inside along the edge of the internal oblong hole where bar passes through against the pinion gear.

I had to file down the edge slightly to get the inner bearing to go in cleanly without snagging on that opening where the bar passes through. It would catch on one side and cause the bearing to pivot and go out of alignment. I used a super fine rounded file to take the edge off so the bearing could slide past freely. Also make sure it's super clean inside and there is no grit that's causing the bearing to hang up.

Packing some grease around the ball bearings inside the race will also help hold everything together.

When I was disassembling my steering rack the bearings seemed to come out without any issues but during reassembly there was just enough interference that made it slightly difficult to get it all back together without the the outer race getting pushed sideways and the ball bearings squirting out.

After reassembly I stumbled upon this video from Martin in the UK and ended up buying a set of his sealed bearings for the steering rack. Here's the video if you're interested:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ffLRDUxevPA

[DrJeff]

I had contacted Martin about his bearings quite a while ago and he said he wasn't making them any more. :(

I can see getting the first outer guide in place, greasing it up, and then getting the other bearings in place. I assume the grease won't cause any problems with the gear oil that goes in last.

I'll give this a go in the morning.

[DMC5180]

The gear oil will just thin out the grease, which perfectly fine, after its all together.

[Mark D]

I think the way I ended up installing the bearings was in two steps.

I installed the inner most bearing on the end of my finger so I could guide it into the deepest recess of the housing.

Then I installed the second bearing onto the pinion shaft, and installed the shaft + second bearing as a unit into the housing that already had the first bearing installed.

The grease held everything together so the first bearing didn't separate while I was maneuvering the pinion shaft and second bearing into place.

The grease should not be an issue mixing with the gear oil. I used white lithium grease.

[DrJeff]

It worked. Lower bottom guide, grease, bearing, grease, lower top guide, grease, assemble upper race on pinion, insert geared rod, grease, anticlockwise twist pinion into place.

Pics to follow.

Thanks for the pointers!!!

[Mark D]

Glad you got it!

The best part is when you get it installed back in the car and get to feel the smooth and tight response from the steering wheel for the first time. It's was a very satisfying moment in my rebuild. It will make all the tinkering worth it.

[DrJeff]

Just in case others are interesting in how to get the steering box re-assembled...

some photos...
Needed to reinstall all the parts from the steering box. The process (that worked) went something like this...
a) Inserted the lower bearing guide - lots of grease to make it go in easier. When it stuck I rocked it from above and below (through the other openings) to keep it moving.
b) Put grease on top of the lower bearing guide and dropped in the 14 bearings. Positioned the bearings around the outside using a BIC pen case.
c) Put the upper part of the bottom bearing in place... bearings need to be in grease and positioned around the outside.
d) Assembled the upper bearing on the bench. 14 bearings again and lots of grease.
e) Placed the upper bearing on the Pinion and kept pressure on it to prevent the bearings from falling out.
f) Inserted the rack rod into the steering tube from the drivers side, made sure gear teeth were visible in the steering box through the pinion opening.
g) Inserted the pinion (and bearing) into the steering box, rotating anticlockwise to get the pinion gears past the rack rod teeth. Needed to rotate the rack rod slightly to let the pinion in (teeth engaging).
h) Once the pinion is in, install the gasket, skim(s), and pinion cover (with the rubber/plastic seal) can be re-installed.
373623735737356373553736337359

I am refurbishing the steering rack as part of a plan to find and fix some steering vibration sources (in preparation for other secret squirrel project). As part of this I replaced the stock plastic tie rod end cups (dimpled things) with brass ones made for a Lotus steering rack of the same vintage. As it turned out mine were not worn much.
37360

I also wanted to replace the stock nylon (plastic) bushing at the other end of the rack from the steering box - on the passenger side. This bushing holds the rack rod in the center of the steering tube. While it looks in shape the plastic was degrading. The brass bushing is longer than the stock plastic bushing and gives a very solid feel to the passenger side of the rack. Pictures are of...
a) Stock nylon bushing
b) Brass bushing sized up to the rack location of the nylon bushing
c) Brass bushing installed on the RH side of the rack in place of a nylon bushing
d) Rack rod installed into box from the driver's side
e) Rack rod installed through new brass bushing
37358373543735337361

Jeff

[Grover]

Where did you get the lotus bushings from?


Just in case others are interesting in how to get the steering box re-assembled...

some photos...
Needed to reinstall all the parts from the steering box. The process (that worked) went something like this...
a) Inserted the lower bearing guide - lots of grease to make it go in easier. When it stuck I rocked it from above and below (through the other openings) to keep it moving.
b) Put grease on top of the lower bearing guide and dropped in the 14 bearings. Positioned the bearings around the outside using a BIC pen case.
c) Put the upper part of the bottom bearing in place... bearings need to be in grease and positioned around the outside.
d) Assembled the upper bearing on the bench. 14 bearings again and lots of grease.
e) Placed the upper bearing on the Pinion and kept pressure on it to prevent the bearings from falling out.
f) Inserted the rack rod into the steering tube from the drivers side, made sure gear teeth were visible in the steering box through the pinion opening.
g) Inserted the pinion (and bearing) into the steering box, rotating anticlockwise to get the pinion gears past the rack rod teeth. Needed to rotate the rack rod slightly to let the pinion in (teeth engaging).
h) Once the pinion is in, install the gasket, skim(s), and pinion cover (with the rubber/plastic seal) can be re-installed.
373623735737356373553736337359

I am refurbishing the steering rack as part of a plan to find and fix some steering vibration sources (in preparation for other secret squirrel project). As part of this I replaced the stock plastic tie rod end cups (dimpled things) with brass ones made for a Lotus steering rack of the same vintage. As it turned out mine were not worn much.
37360

I also wanted to replace the stock nylon (plastic) bushing at the other end of the rack from the steering box - on the passenger side. This bushing holds the rack rod in the center of the steering tube. While it looks in shape the plastic was degrading. The brass bushing is longer than the stock plastic bushing and gives a very solid feel to the passenger side of the rack. Pictures are of...
a) Stock nylon bushing
b) Brass bushing sized up to the rack location of the nylon bushing
c) Brass bushing installed on the RH side of the rack in place of a nylon bushing
d) Rack rod installed into box from the driver's side
e) Rack rod installed through new brass bushing
37358373543735337361

Jeff

[DrJeff]

Where did you get the lotus bushings from?

Seriously Lotus
I paid $35 for 2 including tax and shipping (from the UK)
http://www.seriouslylotus.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=bronzecup

I can't locate the order for the steering rack passenger side bushing. I'm pretty sure it was just a bushing/bearing bought from eBay - but of course of a very specific size. I'll look in my Delorean folder when I get home.

Jeff

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Seriously Lotus
I paid $35 for 2 including tax and shipping (from the UK)
http://www.seriouslylotus.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=bronzecup

I can't locate the order for the steering rack passenger side bushing. I'm pretty sure it was just a bushing/bearing bought from eBay - but of course of a very specific size. I'll look in my Delorean folder when I get home.

Jeff

The new issue of Delorean World has an article I wrote detailing the exact procedures we use when rebuilding steering racks "In House". We have made all of the original earings, bushings, springs, etc. to original specs, or better where needed. We now offer a complete DIY kit for a rebuilt R & P that will yield better than NOS reliability. Sorry that this info came too late to assist you but perhaps other forum members would like to do thier own rebuid's using a complete parts kit with instructions. The NOS R/H end bushing has always suffered a high failure rate and we redesigned it to withstand loads/shock better. I have never seen one of our end bsgs fail in over 20 years of use. It's machined from Delrin rather than molded plastic (NOS) or brass (aftermarket).
Rob

[DrJeff]

My secret squirrel project is coming together.

37487

[DMC5180]

Intriguing, I'll be curiously waiting to see how you mount the assembly to keep the unit from spinning around the shaft.[emoji12]


Dennis

[Delorean Industries]

Make sure when you put it together for the final time that the joints are clocked 90 degrees out from each other. Straight on as pictured will cause binding conditions under various load conditions on the shaft. Looks like a cool project.

[DMC5180]

Make sure when you put it together for the final time that the joints are clocked 90 degrees out from each other. Straight on as pictured will cause binding conditions under various load conditions on the shaft. Looks like a cool project.

This statement seems to contradict what is being stated in the Borgeson catalog.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/22/d0116baa10a513b83ded41fbcea2d74a.jpg


The interesting thing to note is that the OEM assembly is configured about 10 degrees off of 90 degrees apart. This seems to match up with the borgeson statement " If a hard spot occurs, index the joints a few splines apart".


Dennis

[PJ Grady Inc.]

The new issue of Delorean World has an article I wrote detailing the exact procedures we use when rebuilding steering racks "In House". We have made all of the original earings, bushings, springs, etc. to original specs, or better where needed. We now offer a complete D.I.Y. kit for a rebuilt R & P that will yield better than NOS reliability. Sorry that this info came too late to assist you but perhaps other forum members would like to do their own rebuild's using a complete parts kit with instructions. The NOS R/H end bushing has always suffered a high failure rate and we redesigned it to withstand loads/shock better. I have never seen one of our end bsgs fail in over 20 years of use. It's machined from Delrin rather than molded plastic (NOS) or brass (aftermarket).
Rob

I really messed this post up as there are four typo's mostly minor but this one stands out..."We have made all of the original earings," Just what all you guys (and girls) want...genuine Delorean earrings! Obviously I meant to say bearings but it's important that you know that we did not modify existing bearings as others have done but had them custom made to the original specification and hardness. This is essential to assure proper durability and safety. I took the liberty of correcting the other typo's in the above post but left the "earrings" in for comic effect.
Rob

[refugeefromcalif]

Just what all you guys (and girls) want...genuine Delorean earrings! I took the liberty of correcting the other typo's in the above post but left the "earrings" in for comic effect.
Rob

As a 54 year old guy that has 3 earrings, :wow: I'd Love to get some DeLorean ones!

George

[PJ Grady Inc.]

As a 54 year old guy that has 3 earrings, :wow: I'd Love to get some DeLorean ones!

George

Sounds like maybe you should have stayed on "The Left Coast". How does three earrings on a guy fly in Alabamy? :)
Rob

[Spittybug]

I just rebuilt mine with Rob Grady's kit. Feels soooooo nice now! I too had trouble with the lower bearing. I must have had it a hair crooked going in and it started to carve the aluminum cylinder. Needless to say, the next hour was spent fixing things......... I managed to get the outer race seated, cleaned up the gouges I made, flushed any particles out and then used red grease to hold the balls in the race. Inner race seated and the pinion and upper bearing went in without incident. Fortunately the scarred barrel is inconsequential once the two bearings are in place.

If you get shudder through your steering wheel going down the road, this is the fix for you.

PS.... That FU&&ing passenger side steering rack mount is a pain in the ass to put back in! Make sure you take a picture of the orientation.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Thank you Spittybug,
I'm glad it worked out as that's the hardest part for most people to get past if there's a problem with the housing. Feedback is essential!




I just rebuilt mine with Rob Grady's kit. Feels soooooo nice now! I too had trouble with the lower bearing. I must have had it a hair crooked going in and it started to carve the aluminum cylinder. Needless to say, the next hour was spent fixing things......... I managed to get the outer race seated, cleaned up the gouges I made, flushed any particles out and then used red grease to hold the balls in the race. Inner race seated and the pinion and upper bearing went in without incident. Fortunately the scarred barrel is inconsequential once the two bearings are in place.

If you get shudder through your steering wheel going down the road, this is the fix for you.

PS.... That FU&&ing passenger side steering rack mount is a pain in the ass to put back in! Make sure you take a picture of the orientation.