VOD Question

[OverlandMan]

I'll preface by saying I tried to search VOD but the string is too short for the search feature of the site apparently.

Does anyone have a link to the VOD cleaning and inspection process? I'm doing mine now.

37563

Thanks!

[Chris 16409]

My advice to you is not to remove the Y-pipe in the valley. At least one of those bolts will likely sheer off.

[DMCVegas]

All I did was remove the Intake Manifold, Stuff some shop towels into the intake ports, disconnect the remaining vacuum lines and wires from the Y-Pipe, remove the Water Pump, and then stuffed more towels into the remaining coolant passages.

Being a desert car, all I had was eucalyptus leaves, cobwebs, and a minimal amount of silt. Cars from wetter climates might incur mud. You want to use a good shop vac to get things out rather than compressed air or water. The vacuum will pull debris instead of pushing it. That's key to not only preventing a mess, but to keep things out of those passages.

Go in with one of those tiny, narrow, soft spoons that you feed babies with to scoop the mud out if it's really bad. Just scoop it up into the shop vac hose. If need be, then go ahead use a bottle brush with a small amount of water or simple green to wash off and scrub out the corners of the VOD pockets, and just vacuum that out (if you opt for a solvent instead, make sure that you wipe the fluid out instead of vacuuming). Then just wipe the pockets and areas clean with some shop towels. Then inspect the block to check for rot. Once that's done, Repair if needed, and if you'd like get a small spray bottle and fill it with some Simple Green, and wipe down the top of the block.

Upon reassembly, do yourself a HUGE favor and replace all of the Intake, Y-Pipe, and Auxiliary Air Pipe O-Rings with new, and replace the 4 water pump hoses (Heater, Y-Pipe, and both Bypasses), as well as all the vacuum tubing.

Like the manual, I'm also writing this assuming you already are following the rest of the rules of disassembly and reassembly. Use lots of PB Blaster, and always, ALWAYS clean and chase threads before reinstalling bolts.

[David T]

You really do have to remove the Y pipe, the seals should be replaced. If you break a bolt you will have to remove it. Replace ALL of the seals, gaskets, hoses, and water pump. PJ Grady's silicone hoses are the best way to go because you will not have to retighten the hose clamps (you can't anyway unless you take it all apart again). Also a good time to do a full tune-up and if necessary replace the clutch slave cylinder.

[OverlandMan]

Thanks for the info guys. I noticed some black flakey buildup in the intake ports (all 6). Should I clean this up too? How can I get that stuff out without it falling into the heads?

Thanks!

[DMCVegas]

I've always used a razor blade to scrape old gaskets and gunk off of mating surfaces. With the vacuum hose right above it all of course.

[David T]

I've always used a razor blade to scrape old gaskets and gunk off of mating surfaces. With the vacuum hose right above it all of course.

Stuff rags in and then vacuum out the junk. Be careful not to cut deeply into the aluminum while you clean. A small amount getting in won't hurt as long as it is not metal.

[DMC-81]

Thanks for the info guys. I noticed some black flakey buildup in the intake ports (all 6). Should I clean this up too? How can I get that stuff out without it falling into the heads?

Thanks!

Hi Jeff,

I cleaned my intake ports by first ensuring that the valves were closed (turn the crankshaft pulley), then using some clean cotton rags, and spray cans of carburetor cleaner. I used a small wooden dowel to maneuver the rag around the valve. Try to spray the cleaner on the rag, not in the ports.

I've got some pics in the engine restoration folder in the album section on my profile if that helps.

Good luck.

[OverlandMan]

So umm, is this normal? Right in the middle of the VOD I can stick my finger, or screwdriver down pretty far into an oily goopy mess. See pic where my screwdriver is pointing/resting. I'm fearing the worst here. What say you guys?

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[DMC-81]

So umm, is this normal? Right in the middle of the VOD I can stick my finger, or screwdriver down pretty far into an oily goopy mess. See pic where my screwdriver is pointing/resting. I'm fearing the worst here. What say you guys?

37609

Hi Jeff,

Yes, those pockets in the middle of the valley are pretty deep, approx 5 or 6 inches as I recall. Mine were filled with sandy sludge. I don't know what the presence of oil means though, unless you can see a nearby source of a leak Perhaps others can comment on that.

[sdg3205]

Don't panic. Clean it out with brake clean and you'll probably see it is just 35 years of spills and sand.

[David T]

Don't panic. Clean it out with brake clean and you'll probably see it is just 35 years of spills and sand.

That sand is what remains after you boil anti-freeze. It leaks out of the seals, hoses, and gaskets and fills up the cavities. Just scoop it out and clean it up best you can.

[Lou and "Boo"]

My VOD seems like it's constantly corroding. A few months after vacuuming it out, there are pieces of corrosion again. I do not have a garage and I do live on a salt water canal. That probably explains the corrosion.'I even get surface corrosion on my aluminum Peugeot intake manifold.

[OverlandMan]

Alright I feel better now. I cleaned out the concerning area and so far, no issues. I'll admit, the panic was starting to set in. I appreciate all the quick replies. I went ahead and ordered PJ Grady's silicon hose kit with clamps for the Y-Pipe and heater hose. I was able to get 3 of the 4 Y-pipe bolts loose. The 4th I've hit with PB-Blaster a couple of times. I'm going to let it soak overnight and check it tomorrow.

[DMCVegas]

If it won't come loose, spray it with the PB Blaster like you did, and then gently tighten and then try and loosen the bolt again to try and break it loose.

[OverlandMan]

If it won't come loose, spray it with the PB Blaster like you did, and then gently tighten and then try and loosen the bolt again to try and break it loose.

I will give this a try tonight. Thanks.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

I will give this a try tonight. Thanks.

I'll assume you don't have access to compressed air but here's a trick anyone can try. Take a medium sized hammer and a heavy brass punch and give the top of the bolt head several sharp hits. Try to loosen and repeat hammer blows as needed. If you have compressed air using a small air ratchet at a low setting can often vibrate the part loose. The hammer does the same thing using a different technique. As someone already mentioned an inexpensive propane torch, to heat the aluminum pipe, could also help and would be a wise investment.
Rob

[OverlandMan]

I'll assume you don't have access to compressed air but here's a trick anyone can try. Take a medium sized hammer and a heavy brass punch and give the top of the bolt head several sharp hits. Try to loosen and repeat hammer blows as needed. If you have compressed air using a small air ratchet at a low setting can often vibrate the part loose. The hammer does the same thing using a different technique. As someone already mentioned an inexpensive propane torch, to heat the aluminum pipe, could also help and would be a wise investment.
Rob

Actually I do have an air compressor + tools and a propane torch. I used my torch (after soaking the stuck bolt with PB Blaster overnight) to heat it up a bit. It didn't take long and I was able to get it out without breaking anything. I now have the Y pipe and rubber hoses off. I'm starting on the cleaning process now.

[DMCVegas]

Make sure you take a wire brush to the bolt threads, and the a tap to chase the hole threads to clean them both out.

[OverlandMan]

Make sure you take a wire brush to the bolt threads, and the a tap to chase the hole threads to clean them both out.

About that, do the bolts need to be sealed upon re-installation like with RTV or Permatex or something?

[DMCMW Dave]

About that, do the bolts need to be sealed upon re-installation like with RTV or Permatex or something?

They are into blind holes. Some anti-seize compound is a good idea.

[DMCVegas]

About that, do the bolts need to be sealed upon re-installation like with RTV or Permatex or something?

Not as far as I'm aware of. I never did anything like that. Around the Y-Pipe you have the O-Rings that seal the passage into the pipe. Then on the Bypass Flanges (if you removed them), there are gaskets. Just use anti-seize and you're good to go.

[OverlandMan]

Thanks. Anyone know what size the larger 2 vacuum hoses are on the back sides of the intake? Figured might as well replace them too while I'm in there. I think the smaller stuff is 5/32".

[OverlandMan]

Spent some time yesterday cleaning the VOD more. Those deep galleys are a real pain to get clean. I took my pic set and dug around in there. So far everything looks good. I don't see any evidence of block rot, which was my biggest fear. I know its been asked before but what causes that? Bad mix of metal/aluminum the day a particular block was cast?

I plan on at least one more round of cleaning before I start replacing seals and doing the reassembly.

37757

[OverlandMan]

Spent some time yesterday cleaning the VOD more. Those deep galleys are a real pain to get clean. I took my pic set and dug around in there. So far everything looks good. I don't see any evidence of block rot, which was my biggest fear. I know its been asked before but what causes that? Bad mix of metal/aluminum the day a particular block was cast?

I plan on at least one more round of cleaning before I start replacing seals and doing the reassembly.

37757

Is there a particular order these vacuum lines from the thermal vacuum switch need to be run in the pic below? I know the 3 locations, just curious if the order matters. I wouldn't think so unless there's an internal wall or something in there...

38420

[DMCMW Dave]

Is there a particular order these vacuum lines from the thermal vacuum switch need to be run in the pic below? I know the 3 locations, just curious if the order matters. I wouldn't think so unless there's an internal wall or something in there...

38420

Just follow the diagram glued to the bottom of the lower engine cover. Yes the order matters if you mean what each connects to. No of you mean order of assembly.

Center is "source", the other two are "on cold" and "on hot".