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View Full Version : General Angle Drive...May be needin a new one..How do you do that?



Lwanmtr
10-26-2015, 08:04 PM
Speedo wasnt working, so I ran the check on the cables, drill easily spins it and the speedo registers (nope, didnt write down how fast my drill
got it up to..hehe)

Anyhow, the rod (looks like its wound metal) isnt attached to anything and came out with the dust shield. So, most likely I'll need to replace
it. I tried to look in the shop manual and elsewhere, but couldnt find instructions on replacing that...Anyone got a link or something to how
to replace the angle drive (incase thats what ends up happening)?

Heres some pics of the rod...

375823758337584

davidc89
10-26-2015, 10:30 PM
When I bought mine for DMC Midwest, it came with instructions. Pretty simple though, the hardest part of the whole install was transferring the nut over to the new angle drive... that can be a pain!

If you already have the wheel off, you basically just need to take an 1 1/4"? Wrench and loosen the nut that attaches the angle drive to the wheel hub. And then it just slides out of there.

Lwanmtr
10-27-2015, 01:29 AM
I got a pdf from Toby at DMCNW...seems simple enough..though I dont have a breaker bar or torque wrench...have to see if I have a 32mm socket even...lol

Be a few days before I have the $65 or so (after tax and shipping) to get the new angle drive.

Jonathan
10-27-2015, 07:59 AM
The inside nuts can work with a 1 1/4" open ended wrench, but some of the newer ones were a closer match (in tolerance) to 32 mm.

That outside nut is 32 mm on some cars and 36 mm on others. Not sure why there was a difference, or which cars got what. Measure it before you spend money on the socket.

I've found a number of uses for a two foot breaker bar (1/2" drive) over the years. They go on sale at times from what I've seen. Loosening that outside nut first makes your job easier of getting the inside one loose. That breaker bar will help immensely with that. Getting a torque wrench on that back nut is not possible from what I've seen on my own car. You can get good leverage on the outside one though.

And if you struggle with getting the old angle drive separated from the old nut, you can buy a replacement nut. I think they are about $19. It's those new ones that are 32 mm and not 1 1/4".

Having said all of that, there are replacement angle drives that have the ability to replace just that rod that came out with yours. I don't know if your car has one of these new designs (or how to identify it before taking the whole thing out.) Maybe someone else can chime in who is familiar with those? I thought they might have come from either the UK or Hervey.

PJ Grady Inc.
10-27-2015, 11:55 AM
The inside nuts can work with a 1 1/4" open ended wrench, but some of the newer ones were a closer match (in tolerance) to 32 mm.

That outside nut is 32 mm on some cars and 36 mm on others. Not sure why there was a difference, or which cars got what. Measure it before you spend money on the socket.

I've found a number of uses for a two foot breaker bar (1/2" drive) over the years. They go on sale at times from what I've seen. Loosening that outside nut first makes your job easier of getting the inside one loose. That breaker bar will help immensely with that. Getting a torque wrench on that back nut is not possible from what I've seen on my own car. You can get good leverage on the outside one though.

And if you struggle with getting the old angle drive separated from the old nut, you can buy a replacement nut. I think they are about $19. It's those new ones that are 32 mm and not 1 1/4".

Having said all of that, there are replacement angle drives that have the ability to replace just that rod that came out with yours. I don't know if your car has one of these new designs (or how to identify it before taking the whole thing out.) Maybe someone else can chime in who is familiar with those? I thought they might have come from either the UK or Hervey.
I incorporated that feature on my later "Hard core" rebuilt units. The new DMCH repro part also uses a replaceable cable. The last time I saw one Hervey's had a similiar design but with a fixed cable. I believe both of these are China sourced. I was thinking of making more H.C. rebuilt units but the cost of American made hardened gears alone is almost the price of the complete Chinese unit and most owners shop the lowest price on these.
Rob

dn010
10-27-2015, 12:02 PM
I guess I am just lucky with mine - when that damn angle drive cable failed and slit into a million threads of steel I stuffed a long hex T handled wrench into the angle drive, cut off the handle, hammered flat the end the cap goes on slammed the cap on with the flattened hex end making it's own large slot instead of the usual square hole that can round out. With a slot there is no way the cap can wear out and somehow the other end of the hex is still driving the angle drive. That was 2003, still in service today after tens of thousands of miles.

PJ Grady Inc.
10-27-2015, 01:28 PM
I guess I am just lucky with mine - when that damn angle drive cable failed and slit into a million threads of steel I stuffed a long hex T handled wrench into the angle drive, cut off the handle, hammered flat the end the cap goes on slammed the cap on with the flattened hex end making it's own large slot instead of the usual square hole that can round out. With a slot there is no way the cap can wear out and somehow the other end of the hex is still driving the angle drive. That was 2003, still in service today after tens of thousands of miles.

It sounds like good luck could have played a role in its longevity. It's not like you pampered the poor thing!!!
Rob

5875
10-30-2015, 01:12 PM
After trying to replace many parts on my speedo system and still getting a rounded dust cover, I decided to just place a dab of JB weld in the square socket. I let it sit for 4-5 days to really make sure it cured nicely before driving. Since I did that, I've happily placed over 2,000 miles on the car and the speedo works like a charm. Granted if I need to do any front suspension work I'll have to crack the dust cover off, but I've got tons of dust cover spares waiting! Obviously not the most clean fix and the purists will cry foul, but I just got frustrated buying speedo parts that never solved the issue.

PJ Grady Inc.
10-30-2015, 03:23 PM
After trying to replace many parts on my speedo system and still getting a rounded dust cover, I decided to just place a dab of JB weld in the square socket. I let it sit for 4-5 days to really make sure it cured nicely before driving. Since I did that, I've happily placed over 2,000 miles on the car and the speedo works like a charm. Granted if I need to do any front suspension work I'll have to crack the dust cover off, but I've got tons of dust cover spares waiting! Obviously not the most clean fix and the purists will cry foul, but I just got frustrated buying speedo parts that never solved the issue.


When the reproduction adapter cup was introduced some years ago I noticed two problems with them. First there was a much tighter fit to the hub which often necessitated shaving the OD of the adapter down on a bench grinder so that it would not have to be installed with a hammer. They also were made from a softer plastic which led to a much higher failure rate. I don't believe any changes have been made as I recently bought another one for inspection. Because of this we recently had our own adapter cup made using a stronger material and more exacting tolerances. If anyone has noticed problems with the replacement cups and wants something better our part #105104G Adapter Cup is now in stock and sells for $24.95. That's about $9.50 more than theirs but I think the ease of installation and stronger material more than makes up for the difference.
Rob

SS Spoiler
10-30-2015, 06:20 PM
Not wanting to steal Robs thunder, I fixed mine by going to Ace or a hobby
store for some square brass tubing that fits over the drive pin. Careful filing
with a tiny needle file allowed me to force a short section of tubing into the cup.
Did this 25 years ago, still going strong......

Lwanmtr
11-06-2015, 09:14 PM
Finally got the new angle drive, and the tools I needed....

Got the old one out..yaay...

How do I remove the nut? The instructions say use small flat screwdriver to collapse the ring, but I cant really see anything to grab onto.

Thanks

davidc89
11-06-2015, 09:53 PM
You basically have to squish the snap ring on to the angle drive and work the nut around it. I used two picks. It's a Royal pain and takes patience. Look at the new angle drive and you will see what I mean.

Lwanmtr
11-06-2015, 10:03 PM
Lol..patience is one thing I aint got....hehe. Been tryin to squish..but its hard to hold the thing and do that...and I aint got a vice :/

davidc89
11-06-2015, 10:22 PM
Yeah that makes it difficult. It is possible to do, just sucks really bad. You could clamp it to the side of a work bench with a vice grip....

Lwanmtr
11-06-2015, 10:37 PM
oh yeah...vice grips...lol.

You'd think there would be a tool for it...lol

davidc89
11-06-2015, 10:39 PM
On the bright side when you get it off the old angle drive, its easy to put on the new one :).

Lwanmtr
11-06-2015, 11:55 PM
Hehe..yeah. Tomorrow I'll get it off..if I have to take a hacksaw to the angle drive...lol

Jonathan
11-07-2015, 08:04 AM
See if these help. I had them saved from years ago.

3783837839

I had not tried it until recently myself. Previously, I just bought a new nut. It wasn't actually as hard as I was led to believe. I was able to see how the clip was on looking at the new angle drive first and without the nut, and that gave me a better idea how to tackle it.

The clips I have aren't very firm or substantial and they "open" fairly easy. I found where the break in the clip was and then used one small screw driver to hold it in place just by pushing down on it and the other screw driver I used to pry it open a bit more. Once it was poking out just enough, I grabbed that free end with a small set of pliers while still using the other hand to hold it still.

Lwanmtr
11-07-2015, 07:42 PM
I got the clip out..I just pried in there with a small thing I had until it finally came out. Once I knew where the ring was (hard to see in the muck) it only took about 10 minutes of digging..lol.

Got the new clip on and the angle on the car.

Looked on the instructions and it shows a bracket that hold the speedo cable up....My car doesnt have one of those...is it like really important?
Also, is there supposed to be any play in the angle drive once the nut is tightened? The old one I noticed was able to turn a bit before I
loosened it.

Just gotta secure it all, then I'll be ready to get it down off the stands and hope I didnt muck something up..yaay.

Jonathan
11-09-2015, 09:29 AM
I got the clip out..I just pried in there with a small thing I had until it finally came out. Once I knew where the ring was (hard to see in the muck) it only took about 10 minutes of digging..lol.

Got the new clip on and the angle on the car.

Looked on the instructions and it shows a bracket that hold the speedo cable up....My car doesnt have one of those...is it like really important?
Also, is there supposed to be any play in the angle drive once the nut is tightened? The old one I noticed was able to turn a bit before I
loosened it.

Just gotta secure it all, then I'll be ready to get it down off the stands and hope I didnt muck something up..yaay.

There were two bracket designs. I personally consider them important. Either one helps keep the connection at the angle drive to the lower speedo cable from getting crooked or stressed. The wheel will move when you steer, and the flexible cable moves too, but the joint doesn't like to move unnecessarily.

The bracket with the long extension off of it was the early design I believe. They went to the shorter one at some point, maybe because the longer one kept breaking, I don't know. If you use the shorter one, there is a small plastic clip that pinches into the hole in the bracket and then grabs the lower speedo cable. That plastic part seems to break easily if you need to replace the cable or angle drive, so bank on getting a new one.

Long bracket:

http://store.delorean.com/p-7328-pipe-and-cable-brkt.aspx

Short bracket:

http://store.delorean.com/p-7327-pipe-and-cable-brkt.aspx

Plastic clip for short bracket:

http://store.delorean.com/p-7329-pipe-clip.aspx

If you change from one bracket style to another, you'll need to loosen up the flexible brake line, maybe replace it depending on whether it survives, and then bleed your brakes.

And yes, the back of the angle drive, the part sticking out from the nut, will move freely even when the big nut is tightened down. It is not intended to tighten down onto the angle drive and prevent it from rotating. You should be able to spin it forward or back, if for no other reason to get the right angled part pointing back towards the speedo cable connection properly.

David T
11-09-2015, 10:00 AM
I find it is also useful to rotate the angle drive to lubricate it. That screw is on the bottom and by rotating it you can get to the screw from the front to squirt in some grease. Refer to ST-10-10/82. Some are very hard to rotate, they never have been turned, so they freeze into position. I also see a lot of cars that don't have the supporting bracket for the speedo cable or it is there but broken. It is important to have that bracket, it takes some strain off the angle drive by not having to hold the cable.

Lwanmtr
11-09-2015, 04:30 PM
The new angle drive doesnt have the grease nipple, so I dont gotta worry about that.

I'll talk to Toby and see if he has a bracket up there.

Thanks