TIE ROD END - Part number 109071

[mburshtain]

Good morning guys,
I noticed the rubber in the tie rob end is deteriorating.
Should I get it replaced?
Does anyone have experience replacing this part, if yes, how hard is it?

https://store.delorean.com/popup.aspx?src=/images/Product/large/109071.jpg

[dn010]

If the tie rods are not that old you can replace the rubber. If you have no idea the last time they were replaced I'd do the whole thing.

Replacement is easy, keeping the alignment is what you'll need to be worried about. The only obstacles you may come across removing it is 1-the nut will turn the whole ball stud (more typical during install) and 2-the ball stud will be tight in the arm which will mean you'll need to separate the 2 either by using a hammer on the ball stud down or a separator tool. I have a little removal tool that I prefer to use since it doesn't stress any other suspension parts like a hammer blow might, it looks similar to a gear or pulley puller.

Edit: If the replacement tie rod is the same as the new one then you can either count the threads of the steering rack portion or put masking tape around the threads at the bottom of the ball joint so you'll know how far to thread the new one on. If the new is not identical to the old, once you separate the tie rod from the arm, make sure you do not move the wheel, remove the tie rod and thread the new tie rod in until the ball stud goes in the arm. Still recommended to get an alignment just to be safe.

Obviously if you're just replacing the rubber you separate the tie rod from the arm, pull the old boot off and put the new one on - reassemble and that's it.

[DMCMW Dave]

Good morning guys,
I noticed the rubber in the tie rob end is deteriorating.
Should I get it replaced?
]

Buy this instead:

http://store.delorean.com/p-7315-boot-lwr-ball-jointtie-rod-end.aspx

[mburshtain]

Buy this instead:

http://store.delorean.com/p-7315-boot-lwr-ball-jointtie-rod-end.aspx

Thank you, good idea!
I will only replace the boot.

[Ron]

$.02

If the tie rod end is tight, you can still purchase the boot separately.
http://store.delorean.com/p-7315-boot-lwr-ball-jointtie-rod-end.aspx
But, DO NOT strike the stud! -- Use a separation tool (AKA "Pickle Fork (https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=pickle+fork+tie+rod+removal+tool)"), as Dan mentioned.

Replacing:
1. If the replacement is different than the existing tie rod end, get a rough measurement for the the toe in:
Turn the wheels straight and roll the vehicle back and forth a few times so everything will relax.
Measure the distance between the tires as close to spindle height as possible. []<---- X" --->[]
2. Loosen the tie rod to steering rack jamb nut.
3. Remove the tie rod end cotter pin and crown nut.
4. If replacing boot only apply lube first and skip to step 9.
4. Follow instructions included with Pickle Fork tool to separate.
5. If the existing tie rod end is identical to the replacement, count the turns required to remove it.
7. Reassemble in reverse order, checking measurement/count before tightening either nut fully.
8. If the replacement is not identical, roll the vehicle back and forth a few times again...adjust measurement if necessary.
9. Torque tie rod to steering knuckle crown nut 26 Ft-lbs; tie rod to steering rack jamb nut 48 Ft-lbs
10. Get alignment for GP.

[DMCMW Dave]

$.02

If the tie rod end is tight, you can still purchase the boot separately.
http://store.delorean.com/p-7315-boot-lwr-ball-jointtie-rod-end.aspx
But, DO NOT strike the stud! -- Use a separation tool.

OR - take the nut off except for the last couple turns. Then whack the side of the knuckle with a dead blow hammer. About 3 hits and it will fall apart, which is why you leave the nut on it.

[Ron]

OR - take the nut off except for the last couple turns. Then whack the side of the knuckle with a dead blow hammer. About 3 hits and it will fall apart, which is why you leave the nut on it.+1
I figured since he has never done one, I'd give him the sure fire way (lol).
(Actually i usually use a 3rd approach- I have a iron block the size of a brick that I put on one side of the knuckle (if it uses a rack) then pop it sharply on the opposite side and 99.999% of the time they drop right out...but making such suggestions lately winds up a train wreck ;-)

[DMC-81]

Thank you, good idea!
I will only replace the boot.

Hi there,

If you're only going to replace the boot (as I did), you'll need to reuse the upper and lower clips (assuming they are still in good shape). See pic...

37934

If you need to use a ball joint separator, you'll probably damage these. The lower spring-like clip is no longer available. So, before you try to separate the joint, carefully take the lower clip down and out of the way. I put it up on the rod...

37935

If you need to replace them, the upper clip is the same as the lower ball joint clip, 105258, and for the lower spring-like clip, I found a close approximation through Land Rover.... Large Gaiter Rod Boot Spring, model RNA926 part number 214685 , although it was a closer fit on the lower ball joint.

37936

Good luck with the job! :thumbup:

[mburshtain]

Thank you all for your advice, I will update once I'll get the new boot from DMC.

[mburshtain]

$.02

If the tie rod end is tight, you can still purchase the boot separately.
http://store.delorean.com/p-7315-boot-lwr-ball-jointtie-rod-end.aspx
But, DO NOT strike the stud! -- Use a separation tool (AKA "Pickle Fork (https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=pickle+fork+tie+rod+removal+tool)"), as Dan mentioned.

Replacing:
1. If the replacement is different than the existing tie rod end, get a rough measurement for the the toe in:
Turn the wheels straight and roll the vehicle back and forth a few times so everything will relax.
Measure the distance between the tires as close to spindle height as possible. []<---- X" --->[]
2. Loosen the tie rod to steering rack jamb nut.
3. Remove the tie rod end cotter pin and crown nut.
4. If replacing boot only apply lube first and skip to step 9.
4. Follow instructions included with Pickle Fork tool to separate.
5. If the existing tie rod end is identical to the replacement, count the turns required to remove it.
7. Reassemble in reverse order, checking measurement/count before tightening either nut fully.
8. If the replacement is not identical, roll the vehicle back and forth a few times again...adjust measurement if necessary.
9. Torque tie rod to steering knuckle crown nut 26 Ft-lbs; tie rod to steering rack jamb nut 48 Ft-lbs
10. Get alignment for GP.

Thank you Ron,
Can you help and show me where the cotter pin is? I can't see it
40070

[dn010]

I don't think tie rod ends have pins. Anything that does, they would go through the threaded portion and have castle nuts, not nylocks. Look at your ball joints and you'll see them there.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[mburshtain]

All done!
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160224/e4480d91ed5f26776fc4ea64e98e14f4.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mburshtain]

While replacing the tie rod end boot, I noticed the brakes have a white plastic plate sitting behind the wheels.
Anyone knows the purpose of this plate? what's the part number?

[DMC-81]

While replacing the tie rod end boot, I noticed the brakes have a white plastic plate sitting behind the wheels.
Anyone knows the purpose of this plate? what's the part number?

Hi there,

It's called a dust shield, ( part # 105104) and actually makes the speedometer angle drive work.

[mburshtain]

Hi there,

It's called a dust shield, ( part # 105104) and actually makes the speedometer angle drive work.

Thank you!
Is it only installed on the front left wheel?

[DMC-81]

Thank you!
Is it only installed on the front left wheel?

You're welcome. Yes, it's only installed on the left front. By the way, your frame/ suspension area is looking great! :thumbup:

[mburshtain]

You're welcome. Yes, it's only installed on the left front. By the way, your frame/ suspension area is looking great! :thumbup:

I used a picture I found in google that shows the plate. :-) It's not my car...
Thanks again!

[DMC-81]

I used a picture I found in google that shows the plate. :-) It's not my car...
Thanks again!

Oops sorry. Don't you just love Google! :)

[PJ Grady Inc.]

All done!
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160224/e4480d91ed5f26776fc4ea64e98e14f4.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

BTW Maor if you use the original upper boot clip, as it appears you have done, it will shear off the top off the boot rather quickly. Ask me how I know.....it's an understandable mistake! Are you ready to do it again?
Rob

[mburshtain]

BTW Maor if you use the original upper boot clip, as it appears you have done, it will shear off the top off the boot rather quickly. Ask me how I know.....it's an understandable mistake! Are you ready to do it again?
Rob

Thanks Rob,
I am thinking to replace the all thing sometime soon... In the meantime I will keep an eye on the boot..
What is your take on the quality of the replacement part (reproduction of the tie rod end)? are you selling one?

--Maor

[Rich_NYS]

BTW Maor if you use the original upper boot clip, as it appears you have done, it will shear off the top off the boot rather quickly. Ask me how I know.....it's an understandable mistake! Are you ready to do it again?
Rob

What's recommended to use instead?