How-to: installing door membranes

[Jonathan]

Anyone know how to do this? Like a how-to with helpful write-up and pictures?

I have about a hundred bucks worth of plastic sitting in my parts tote and they need to go on the car, but I don't know how.

Not sure how much of the inside of the door needs to come out first, or what portions of the door's armrest and latch levers, etc. need to protrude through the plastic membrane. There aren't any holes cut in it already and I'd kinda like to not cut unnecessary ones. It is supposed to be a moisture barrier afterall.

[DMCVegas]

It's pretty straight forward. Pull and remove the upper door trim, then lift up on the door handle to slide the Escutcheon out, unbolt the inner door handle and other screws and remove the lower door trim as well. If memory serves, you will also have to remove the handle/lock bracket too. Once that's clear, then you can pull off the old vapor barrier and clean the old glue off with a solvent like Goof-Off or something.

http://www.carnutcase.com/Articles/2015/Delorean-Door-Panel-Removal-77.aspx

Then apply some fresh adhesive (I think Warren used to call it Elephant Snot or something like that) where the old was, and stick the vapor barrier into place.

For anywhere that you need to screws to pass though you can refer to the old vapor barrier as a reference. But when it comes to that, don't actually cut any holes. Just use an Xacto knife to make tiny slits or "x" incisions for the screws to pass through. If there are any other slits needed for wiring or the like, again, just use the old barrier as a reference to know where stuff is supposed to go, and then just cut once the new one is in place and is lined up perfectly.

[Jonathan]

Thanks, but I should have mentioned I don't have the old barrier to use as a reference. There is not one single scrap of it left on either door. Between me not knowing what it was for originally, and the previous owners/mechanics, it got pulled or cut out piece by piece.

I have new ones for both sides, so I can see which goes to which. The replacements have some contours for what looks like some of the smaller wiring connections to go through the upper side and down into the door towards the middle. There aren't any slits in it yet, but there is a small V-notch cut out on the upper side, towards the front for what looks like one of the screws.

I can take the upper and lower trim panels off and the armrest you mentioned, no problem there. What confuses me a bit (with never seeing one properly installed as a reference) is where this bulge of a contour that is in the middle of the plastic sheet and is sort of rectangular shaped goes. Since we have the door latch and lock rods on both sides as well as the electrical connections for locks and mirrors, those have to come through the plastic to get to the estucheon part, right?

That's what I don't see quite yet. Can't visualize how those things go from inside the door, through the membrane, and connect at the armrest. Just don't want to make a mess of the plastic trying to guess.

[Dangermouse]

You could just get some standard polythene from the hardware store and have a practice run with that first, and then transfer the necessary openings onto the final product.

On my DD, it is a standard occurrence that the bottom of the vapor barrier comes loose after a few years and then it leaks like a poorly fitting Depends. The SOP there is to just use black RTV to re-stick the whole bottom section.

[DMCVegas]

If memory serves, the Bell Crank should go straight through the a hole in the vapor barrier since it's completely perpendicular. There should be just a slit for the rod that connects to the Door Lock Rocker Switch. I think that with the Window Switch on the Driver's door, the wiring harness for that just stays on top of the barrier to then curve back up to connect with the switch.

Now take a look at this photo from the link I sent you. It's the last one on the bottom, but here it is directly. This is a picture of a door with the vapor barrier in place:

http://www.carnutcase.com/Images/Articles/2015/Delorean-Door-Panel-Removal/274-26-Delorean-Door-Panel-Removal-L-3146.jpg


Across the top of the door, below the glass, you have that wiring harness that comes across, and it has three sections that drop down. Those do not go through the barrier, they just lay down on the stainless and the barrier gets glued over the top of them. DO NOT GLUE DIRECTLY TO THE WIRING HARNESS! No need. Remember, the water dripping down is on the other side of the panel, so water never gets in through those gaps up top.
Take a look at where the empty screw holes are where the lower door panel goes, and you'll see what I'm talking about when it comes to poking holes in the plastic with an Xacto knife. You'll line up everything for the Arm Rest Sub Assembly, and poke holes to mount it. THEN once it's in place, poke holes again to for the lower door panel to mount.
Look closely, right below where the door handle is, and where it connects through the barrier to the bell crank. You will see the connecting rod for the door lock rocker switch. THAT is where you'll cut a vertical slit for the connecting rod to pass through.
Indentations go inwards on the barrier. The large rectangular one is for the door grab handle. There is a bracket inside you'll align with, and two holes to cut for the bolts to pass through.
Some people will recommend tape, but I like a little daub of axle grease inside of a socket to hold bolts in place when removing or installing them for that Grabhandle.



So if I were installing new barriers, this is what I would do:

Remove Upper Door Assembly.
Remove Escutcheon.
Remove Door Grabhandle.
Remove Lower Door trim.
Disconnect connecting rod from Door Lock Rocker Switch.
Remove screw securing Door Handle to Bell Crank Rod.
Remove Arm Rest Sub Assembly.
Clean and remove all old glue.
Test fit vapor barrier.
Cut Slit for Door Lock Rocker Switch Connecting Rod
Cut holes fro Bell Crank Rod.
Slide barrier into place with the connecting rod going through it.
Tack the Vapor Barrier in place with a few random spots of painters tape to hold it.
Cut holes for Arm Rest Sub Assembly screws.
Bolt-up the Arm Rest Sub Assembly.
Glue the rest of the vapor barrier.
Cut holes for the Door Grabhandle.
Cut holes for the Lower Door Panel mounting bolts.
Reassemble the rest of the door.


Now DMCH has this in stock:
http://store.delorean.com/p-9882-strip-sealant.aspx
But I again, I could have sworn that once upon a time, Warren said they now used fresh 3M weather strop adhesive, aka Gorilla Snot. If it's the old stuff they're still selling, I'd pass and just get a tube of the 3M stuff. But as always, wear gloves!

[Lwanmtr]

I got some indoor/outdoor double sided sticky tape to put mine in. it holds great and easy to remove if you have to get in there again.

[Jonathan]

Thanks for all the details and the photo Robert. I missed the link when I saw your first post.

I have some of the adhesive that the DMC shops still use. An appropriate amount was included in the order when I got the membranes. I haven't tried it out yet or looked at it too closely though.

Good idea on the practice sheet Dermot. I will probably do just that. Boy would that original sheet still being more or less in place have ever helped. This will be a good winter project when I have the car put away and lots of time to get it right. Thanks.

[mr_maxime]

I'm about to reglue mine one. Are you guys referring to the yellow 3m stuff?
https://www.amazon.com/3M-08001-Yellow-Weatherstrip-Adhesive/dp/B000HTNNDA

I have the black type, will that work?

[Lwanmtr]

Looking at the description, it should. But I couldnt say since i used tape, which works good, since I recently popped the cover open to get my solenoids out...and its still sticky

[mr_maxime]

Well I got a big tube, so I guess there's no harm in testing it

[Lwanmtr]

Worst case, I think you'd just have to clean it back off if it doesn work.

[DMC-81]

I have used both yellow and black. I think the yellow sets up harder, but the black should work. I cleaned all the old gorilla snot of the door and membrane with mineral spirits first. The key to both colors is a clean surface.

Also, I did one small section at a time, starting at the middle and working toward the front or back as it sets up relatively quickly.

[DMCMW Dave]

The OEM stuff is actually a strip of sticky material. The nice thing about it, as opposed to 3M adhesive, is that you can repeatedly take it apart and put it back together. It's pretty important to seal the membrane at the bottom as I've seen some cars have water from the window hit the shield and run down and out the bottom (onto the carpet) if the bottom isn't sealed. I'm sure there are sticky roll materials available elsewhere, in GM cars of the era it was black.

If you glue the membrane in place, you'll generally tear it next time it comes off. And, being DeLorean doors, there will be a next time.

[Morpheus]

The OEM stuff is actually a strip of sticky material. The nice thing about it, as opposed to 3M adhesive, is that you can repeatedly take it apart and put it back together. It's pretty important to seal the membrane at the bottom as I've seen some cars have water from the window hit the shield and run down and out the bottom (onto the carpet) if the bottom isn't sealed. I'm sure there are sticky roll materials available elsewhere, in GM cars of the era it was black.

If you glue the membrane in place, you'll generally tear it next time it comes off. And, being DeLorean doors, there will be a next time.

Is it typically included with the purchase of new membranes, or does one have to purchase it separately? I saw that DMCH has it listed for $76 but it looks like way more than is needed..

https://store.delorean.com/p-9882-strip-sealant.aspx

[Lwanmtr]

Newp, DMC doesnt include any adhesive with the new membranes. Thats why I chose the double sided sticky tape..cheap and works...oh and easier to use than something squirted from a tube :)

[DMCMW Dave]

That $76 roll will do dozens of doors. I've reeled off shorter lengths for customers. Not sure if others will do that.


Sent from phone

[MML]

This is the kind of stuff you're after - butyl sealing strip

http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/butyl-sealer-strip-7m

That's a UK site but you're bound to get it in the US as well.

[spikeygg]

I found this thread and after reading about the butyl tape I bought this roll from amazon.com:

Dicor BT-1834-1 1/8" x 3/4" x 30' Butyl Seal Tape (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001FCB4JS)

It was $11 shipped to my house, works great for the doors and I still have half a roll left!

46471 46472

[iflights]

Going to be doing this job myself soon. Found a 10' roll of Vapor Barrier Sealant at BAVAUTO.COM. Part#GT625. $11.95 and they ship out of New Hampshire. Sorry, no direct URL link to the product on their site. Just use search.