Josh Q/VIN 3307's Custom DPI Twin-Turbo E.F.I. Project Build

[DeloreanJoshQ]

So I thought I would share my next big project. See below pictures and road map to have this done by summer 2016.
I welcome any questions or suggestions along the way.

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*Twin-Turbo DeLorean Road Map*

-Purchased Custom Tailored Twin-Turbo EFI Kit from DPI
-Turbos- 1548 water cooled largest t25 flanged water cooled available undersized for lower boost applications, they spool very fast and give a very nice power range. They do top out from testing at 390ish ft lbs
-oil feed and drain lines and fittings
-Turbo coolant lines and fittings
-Compressor inlet piping
-Partial Compressor outlet piping
-K-JET bypass adapter plate and piping
-Silicone connectors and clamps
-header to turbo adapter pipes
-tail pipes
-Waste Gate dump pipes/adaptors
-PCV fittings for valve covers
-Oil pan gasket
-Gussets between turbo and flange double gaskets one on each side of that others are waste gates and intake pipe supports
-To Buy List
-two K&N air filters to fit in pontoons
-two Blow-Off Valves– Vee Port Pro Turbo Smart
-two wastegates – Ultra-gate 38 Turbo Smart
-two 5 psi spring kits for the wastegates
-(6) 24 lb injectors
-DPI Fuel Rails
-Holley wide band O2 sensor 554-100

-Megasquirt computer ms3 pro or base ms2- 3.0 not 3.57 as the flyback has odd fire issues. the non registered studiotuner software supports odd fire control http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megasquirtii-programmable-efi-system-pcb30-kit-black-case-p-119.html
-Does anyone know where i can get one already built instead of the kit? I don't trust my soldering skills; would like to control both spark and fuel

-Build or buy ecu wiring harness
-Anyone have any pointers for building this? Otherwise, I should be fine.

-Software - free source tunerstudio is best with registered version around $100, unlocks a number of things that can help with drivability.
-Alternator relocation brass spacer as the turn buckle is for m8/5/16 and the timing cover is m7
-Aeromotive Fuel pressure regulator – need part number. Any suggestions?
-Coolant sensor – need part number or does it use original?
-Coolant adaptor for at water pump – from DPI
-map sensor – megasquirt already comes with one
-tps sensor – need a part number -mounted on throttle shield above spool.
-intake temp sensor – need a part number - mounted in lower metering housing.
-misc fuel lines – Need to figure out thread size on stock delorean hard lines to adapt to braided (from filter, and the one back to tank)

-To Do List
-drill and tap holes in block for turbo drain fittings
-lock advance mechanism in distributor
-Remove old K-Jet Components –need a list of items to remove

-After Completion, Success, and Financial Stability
-Add intercoolers and eventually go through the engine to increase boost.

I'll be posting updates as the project progresses.
Hope you all enjoy the journey

[sdg3205]

I'm drooling.

Have you already installed high compression Pistons? I know you're already running the spec cams.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Not yet. I'm only running 5psi at first and then later will go through the engine, including the pistons.

[sdg3205]

At 5 psi, cams and efi, do you and josh estimate this will be a bit beyond legend vin 502? That's still a hell of a good starting place.

Assuming internals are at some point beefed up and boost is maximized what is the performance goal?

[DeloreanJoshQ]

At 5 psi, cams and efi, do you and josh estimate this will be a bit beyond legend vin 502? That's still a hell of a good starting place.

Assuming internals are at some point beefed up and boost is maximized what is the performance goal?

Josh would have to speak to actual HP and TQ numbers. The only way I will be able to is when I dyno the car when the project is complete which is planned.
At this point I want to max out HP while still safe on the stock internals (excluding the cams). The second phase is to add intercoolers. The third face would be to go into the engine and change the pistons, rings, and any other weak points in the engine and then retune and test again.

For me, I have always wanted to do a Turbo setup since I was pre-teen. Being able to do it with a DeLorean with high quality and high tech parts is a dream come true. I also want EFI hardware and software tuning experience. So this will fulfill both of those goals. Of course I want more horsepower to match the looks as most would agree. For me it is just perfecting the process and being happy with the results....
JQ

[Delorean Industries]

Out put is highly subjective to many things. EFI layout, engine efficiency etc. Our base engine is rated at 306 ft lbs of torque and 283 hp at 9 psi. This is intercooled, with full ignition and fuel control.

[Domi]

Amazing project, please keep us update on progress :thumbup:

[dn010]

If you call DIYAutotune you can probably get the ECU you want built for you instead of assembling yourself.

As for the harness, I purchased one through DIY that already had the MS unit connector on it. My engine is originally from a Volvo 780 so on the engine side I used one of my many engine harnesses I had laying around from those cars and spliced/soldered/heat shrink to the ECU harness, that way I didn't have to worry about making a lot of connectors. The best is to grab wiring from a junk vehicle that way you have pretty much all the color wiring you could ever want and a pretty decent length as well.

I cannot help you on the fuel pressure sensor, but the coolant sensor I used the original, check the EFI section of the forum for the TPS information (EDIT here is the link: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?12683-What-TPS-Do-You-Use-With-Megasquirt ). I do not have a intake temp sensor yet but I'm planning on switching my Bosch MAF to the Ford Lightening MAF which includes a temp sensor in it.

For the fuel lines, I used high pressure fuel line with the correct fuel line clamps. I pushed the connector down the steel return line (I should have cut the connector off but it was too late as I already installed the body) and crimped the fuel line on there. For the fuel filter I used a hallow fuel fitting with a barbed nipple (like the fuel pump uses). Clamped them all down and haven't had any leaks to this day.

Other plans I have is to use dual wideband sensors, maybe early next year - I am currently using 1 LC-2 with Bosch sensor.

Hope some of this helps...

[BladeBronson]

I was just checking out DPI's site to see their turbo offering. Damn, this thing looks amazing: http://www.deloreanindustries.com/spec-2-twin-turbo-installed/ Do any of the members of this message board have this engine? I'd love to hear some stories.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Pre Conversion Pics

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[Iznodmad]

I was just checking out DPI's site to see their turbo offering. Damn, this thing looks amazing: http://www.deloreanindustries.com/spec-2-twin-turbo-installed/ Do any of the members of this message board have this engine? I'd love to hear some stories.

First of all, I'm not here to steal the thunder from the OP and his build thread. I also don't really have any stories to share at this point in time. But the answer to your question is yes. I have two of the twin turbo engines on order. One is maximum offering for the 5-speed and the other is the maximum offering for the automatic. I have not taken delivery of either. But when I do, I will share with the community with pics, vids, and impressions.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

If you call DIYAutotune you can probably get the ECU you want built for you instead of assembling yourself.

As for the harness, I purchased one through DIY that already had the MS unit connector on it. My engine is originally from a Volvo 780 so on the engine side I used one of my many engine harnesses I had laying around from those cars and spliced/soldered/heat shrink to the ECU harness, that way I didn't have to worry about making a lot of connectors. The best is to grab wiring from a junk vehicle that way you have pretty much all the color wiring you could ever want and a pretty decent length as well.

I cannot help you on the fuel pressure sensor, but the coolant sensor I used the original, check the EFI section of the forum for the TPS information (EDIT here is the link: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?12683-What-TPS-Do-You-Use-With-Megasquirt ). I do not have a intake temp sensor yet but I'm planning on switching my Bosch MAF to the Ford Lightening MAF which includes a temp sensor in it.

For the fuel lines, I used high pressure fuel line with the correct fuel line clamps. I pushed the connector down the steel return line (I should have cut the connector off but it was too late as I already installed the body) and crimped the fuel line on there. For the fuel filter I used a hallow fuel fitting with a barbed nipple (like the fuel pump uses). Clamped them all down and haven't had any leaks to this day.

Other plans I have is to use dual wideband sensors, maybe early next year - I am currently using 1 LC-2 with Bosch sensor.

Hope some of this helps...

Thanks for the help. Still waiting on DPI to help me fill in the blanks with what I need. Then I will slowly put together all of the parts.

[20098]

Those pictures are of my car, VIN 1292. It is an amazing project and the quality and attention to detail are top notch. The car pulls very, very strong. Since getting it back about a year ago, Josh has done a number of updates, modifications and tuning to extract more power out of it, at my request. I believe it has been said here, "go boost or go home." Now that I've had a huge taste of it, I need more! Rob G. drove it while out in Phoenix a few months back and said that this was *the* fastest DeLorean he has ever known. Our next project is working on brake upgrades. The car now needs to stop as well as it goes! I highly recommend Josh, DPI and his product. There is no question in my mind that the future of the DeLorean, and performance, is Josh Bengston.


I was just checking out DPI's site to see their turbo offering. Damn, this thing looks amazing: http://www.deloreanindustries.com/spec-2-twin-turbo-installed/ Do any of the members of this message board have this engine? I'd love to hear some stories.

[opethmike]

Can you share some pictures of the finalized install?

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Can you share some pictures of the finalized install?
+1, and any video footage of it idling, revving, or the car driving?

[Delorean Industries]

I have a bunch of videos etc of this. Josh, to not derail your thread I'm going to start a separate one to keep yours on topic and post more info, pics, vids etc there. I've been aprehensive of too much data on this going out because we couldn't build these fast enough in the past. Still back logged but output is ten fold.

[opethmike]

So does anyone have pictures or video of this in a finished, received car?

[Delorean Industries]

I have tons... I'll try to upload next few days when I have a chance.

[88KPH]

Our next project is working on brake upgrades. The car now needs to stop as well as it goes!.

That looks amazing, but the idea of driving my D with standard brakes and an extra single horse would fill me with dread. My 35 year VW bus has better brakes! :lol:

[DeloreanJoshQ]

I'm going to move forward with this project. If anyone has answers to the following questions, I would appreciate it. Otherwise, I will figure them out on my own:

#1 I currently plan to go with the Megasquirt spark and fuel control unless someone strongly recommends a different platform.
Below are the two options. Per the last conversation i had with DPI, "Megasquirt computer ms3 pro or base ms2- 3.0 not 3.57 as the flyback has odd fire issues."

I believe this to be the correct and assembled to use MS2:
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megasquirtii-engine-management-system-wpcb3-assembled-unit-p-65.html
and Megasquirt ecu wiring harness- http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/1039-megasquirt-wiring-harness-ms1-ms2-ms3-ready-p-477.html

Otherwise, this is the MS3 Pro:
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/ms3pro-standalone-ecu-with-839-wiring-harness-p-538.html

I'm still researching which one to go with. The MS2 is half the price. I don't have an unlimited budget. However, if it will make a big difference, I will go with the MS3P.

#2 Removing K-Jet Components that will no longer be used (for both fuel and ignition). I believe I will be able to remove the following: Cold Start Valve, Warm Up Regulator, Frequency Valve, The mechanical injectors and stainless lines, the fuel distributor and air metering assembly (the top half is being replaced with the nicely designed turbo inlet assembly to use the original throttle body). Does the Idle-Air Control Valve get reused? I will be removing the Lambda setup, Idle computer, and ignition computer as well, correct? How about any additional sensors or vacuum lines, distributor advance, etc?

#3 Fuel Feed Lines - Either I find adaptor fittings to the original line from the fuel filter and return line to the tank, or i cut off the fittings and use compression fittings and adaptors to the new setup that will use AN fittings. Any recommendations?

#4 Intake air temperature sensor. Looking for a part number and how to mount it to the lower air metering housing.

#5 MAP sensor, I believe MS2 comes with one that will be plenty for what I am doing. I believe the MS3P does not. In this case, what would be a good part #?

#6 Coolant Temp Sensor, can I use the original or a different one? Research says they like the GM version, but I don't know how to adapt.

#7 Alternator relocation -Per last DPI conversation "use brass spacer as the turn buckle is for m8/5/16 and the timing cover is m7" Anyone have clarification on this? I am currently using a turnbuckle adjustment setup in place of the original adjuster bracket.

In addition, DPI did provide a recommendation on the:
-TPS sensor: TCI brand part # 377400 plus Holley Part # 20-40 fitting. Just need to figure out where to put the fitting specifically.
-Aeromotive Fuel pressure regulator – Part # 13129
-Software - "free source tunerstudio is best free version and registered i would pay the 100 bucks for reg
unlocks a number of things that can help with drivability" I believe this to be correct: http://www.tunerstudio.com/index.php/tuner-studio/tunerstudioms

I believe these to be the correct injectors at 24 lbs and at 45psi fuel system pressure: http://www.jegs.com/i/Accel/110/150624/10002/-1

I did find fuel injector pigtails (6): http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/fuel-injector-pigtails-bosch-ev1-p-48.html

I can buy the pre-built DPI fuel rails or I can source undrilled stock from work here, just need to measure length: http://www.jegs.com/p/FAST/FAST-Universal-Fuel-Rails/2390014/10002/-1?itemPerPage=60&pno=1

This is all for now. Any help is appreciated. Really looking forward to putting it all together.

[Spittybug]

Make sure you have read the threads in the EFI section. I personally have the MS2 extra running just fine. The 3.57 board gave some guys fits with sync loss at higher RPM, but I believe this was fixed with a simple resistor.... ask Texas Twister (aka Ian). I don't run full sequential (requires 5 more driver chips) but he does. I have batch fire ignition and full fuel control.

Lazaby (aka Shannon) is working on mounting a TPS the same way that Darcom did. I didn't have to since I'm using a different throttle body/intake. You WILL need to either keep your idle air module (beware of it getting in the way of fuel rails) or use a new stepper motor type with pintle that goes into a machined aluminum block. Again, see threads. Air and water temp sensors are simple GM units IIRC. Make sure the incoming air one is not mounted in metal that soaks up engine heat.

I use 19 lb/hr injectors. I know Ian has bigger ones. The risk with bigger ones is that the open time at idle can be very short and less controllable, leading to rough idle. I'm able to get rock smooth idle with no shortage at high RPM.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Some of the EFI guys have kept the stock idle system and others have used the MS system to drive a new idle air device.

Also some EFI guys have not controlled the spark via the MS and others have.

We don't hear much from the EFI guys these days. There is a lot of posting when they are looking for ideas to solve a problem. Hopefully those EFI guys can add their comments.

[opethmike]

Just as an FYI, you can control the stock idle air valve with Megasquirt just fine. I've been doing that for a good year or so.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Just as an FYI, you can control the stock idle air valve with Megasquirt just fine. I've been doing that for a good year or so.

Do you have any pictures of it or is it in the stock location? I am using the stock intake with fuel rails. Does it matter if I relocate it due to not fitting? Any advantages to going to the Jeep 4.0 stepper version? Would be cheaper just to keep using it...
Appreciate the help. Thanks Mike!

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Some of the EFI guys have kept the stock idle system and others have used the MS system to drive a new idle air device.

Also some EFI guys have not controlled the spark via the MS and others have.

We don't hear much from the EFI guys these days. There is a lot of posting when they are looking for ideas to solve a problem. Hopefully those EFI guys can add their comments.

I would prefer to use MS for idle control and ignition/spark control.

I appreciate any help you can offer.
Thanks Dave!

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Make sure you have read the threads in the EFI section. I personally have the MS2 extra running just fine. The 3.57 board gave some guys fits with sync loss at higher RPM, but I believe this was fixed with a simple resistor.... ask Texas Twister (aka Ian). I don't run full sequential (requires 5 more driver chips) but he does. I have batch fire ignition and full fuel control.

Lazaby (aka Shannon) is working on mounting a TPS the same way that Darcom did. I didn't have to since I'm using a different throttle body/intake. You WILL need to either keep your idle air module (beware of it getting in the way of fuel rails) or use a new stepper motor type with pintle that goes into a machined aluminum block. Again, see threads. Air and water temp sensors are simple GM units IIRC. Make sure the incoming air one is not mounted in metal that soaks up engine heat.

I use 19 lb/hr injectors. I know Ian has bigger ones. The risk with bigger ones is that the open time at idle can be very short and less controllable, leading to rough idle. I'm able to get rock smooth idle with no shortage at high RPM.

What is the difference between MS2 and MS2 Extra?
The TPS sensor i have listed above looks pretty straight forward, so I will probably use it unless there is a more inexpensive alternative that also provides a clean look.
I believe DPI sells an adapter that goes into the water pump for the coolant temp sensor. Know of a YMM or part number that is compatible?
Any recommendations on the same for the air intake sensor part #, YMM, as well as specific location with what you said?
DPI recommends 24 lbs injectors with twin turbo so I will stick with them.

I appreciate all the help Owen. Thank you very much.

[opethmike]

I'm not using the stock manifold, so where I have mine doesn't matter :)

If you can, stick with a PWM idle control valve - the stepper motors (in my experience) are much harder to tune, and get to behave consistently.
For the coolant temperature sensor, just remove the existing thermotime switch. Then drill out, and tap the existing adapter to fit the new coolant temperature sensor.

Just use GM sensors for everything. That's what Megasquirt plays most nicely with.

As for the product differences, you should really read the documentation to learn about the different systems. A lot of the questions you are asking are already answered there. Read the docs, and get to know them inside and out. This is complex stuff, you need to know the documented basics first. You can find everything at:

http://www.msextra.com

Poke around and read everything on diyautotune.com. Pretty much everything is already answered between those two sites.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

I'm not using the stock manifold, so where I have mine doesn't matter :)

If you can, stick with a PWM idle control valve - the stepper motors (in my experience) are much harder to tune, and get to behave consistently.
For the coolant temperature sensor, just remove the existing thermotime switch. Then drill out, and tap the existing adapter to fit the new coolant temperature sensor.

Just use GM sensors for everything. That's what Megasquirt plays most nicely with.

As for the product differences, you should really read the documentation to learn about the different systems. A lot of the questions you are asking are already answered there. Read the docs, and get to know them inside and out. This is complex stuff, you need to know the documented basics first. You can find everything at:

http://www.msextra.com

Poke around and read everything on diyautotune.com. Pretty much everything is already answered between those two sites.

What do you think of this? Very well priced, looks simple enough and is a 2-wire PWM
http://www.carparts.com/details/Volkswagen/Jetta/Replacement/Idle_Control_Valve/1995/REPV313201.html?TID=80000000CP&origin=pla&CP=1&CP_SRC=PPC&003=27372932&010=cpreidcova95volkswagenjetta19931999replacement repv3132011&gclid=CKvsptDg7LgCFUqk4AodEjIAUQ

[DeloreanJoshQ]

My bad, hadn't fully waken up. The DeLorean version should do just fine. I'll keep researching. Thanks again Mike.

[dn010]

I am using a Volvo 3-wire PWM valve (same as the D valve just slimmer) and it has been working fine. I do not believe you can use them with MS2 without ECU modification, though. I cannot remember what coolant sensor the stock engine has, the stock Volvo ('87 780) coolant temp sensor I'm using is 2 pin (ground/signal) and has been working great, I'm sure you can interchange this Volvo one and the D one if it makes things easier. Instead of finding an actual MAT/IAT sensor, I replaced my Bosch MAF sensor with a Ford 6-wire sensor that has MAT built in so I cannot comment on that sensor.

I'm using Ford EDIS for my spark control, the MS ECU is connected to the EDIS but the EDIS computer does all the calculating etc. I do have the stock front mounted distributor that I was going to use if all else failed. It would be great to run sequential but I have not done any camshaft position sensor research, perhaps one day.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

I am using a Volvo 3-wire PWM valve (same as the D valve just slimmer) and it has been working fine. I do not believe you can use them with MS2 without ECU modification, though. I cannot remember what coolant sensor the stock engine has, the stock Volvo ('87 780) coolant temp sensor I'm using is 2 pin (ground/signal) and has been working great, I'm sure you can interchange this Volvo one and the D one if it makes things easier. Instead of finding an actual MAT/IAT sensor, I replaced my Bosch MAF sensor with a Ford 6-wire sensor that has MAT built in so I cannot comment on that sensor.

I'm using Ford EDIS for my spark control, the MS ECU is connected to the EDIS but the EDIS computer does all the calculating etc. I do have the stock front mounted distributor that I was going to use if all else failed. It would be great to run sequential but I have not done any camshaft position sensor research, perhaps one day.

Yes, you are right, sigh. http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/IAC.htm Thank you for the heads up!
So, the stepper motors seem like a pain to tune and the stock PWM valve requires modification to the MS2 and also is in the way of the fuel rail.
What would you recommend as the best option that is plug-n-play and clears the fuel rail?

Thoughts on this if stepper is best option? http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/custom-idle-air-control-body-for-use-with-jeep-40l-iac-valve-p-69.html and then this: http://www.autozone.com/engine-management/idle-air-control-valve/duralast-idle-air-control-valve/jeep/cherokee-2wd/1996/6-cylinders-s-4-0l-mfi/195720_0_0/?checkfit=true with this plug http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/iac-valve-pigtail-p-70.html

For the coolant sensor, i planned on this closed element with pigtail. http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/gm-closed-element-clt-iat-sensor-with-pigtail-p-58.html . Josh at DPI says he has an adaptor to mate it to the water pump connector so I was going to go that route.

[opethmike]

I made literally zero modifications to my MS2 Extra 3.57 board to run the stock idle motor. I just set it up in Tuner Studio as a PWM valve. Works completely fine.

You can still use it with the stock manifold and the fuel rails. You'd simply have to mount it remotely, and run a hose to the "pipe of agony" that goes into the mixture unit.

Don't bother spending the money on a coolant sensor adapter. Just unscrew the existing adapter used by the thermotime switch, and drill/tap it to fit the new coolant sensor. All of 5 minutes of work, and costs you nothing if you already have a tap & die set.

[BABIS]

I believe this to be the correct and assembled to use MS2:
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megasquirtii-engine-management-system-wpcb3-assembled-unit-p-65.html
and Megasquirt ecu wiring harness- http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/1039-megasquirt-wiring-harness-ms1-ms2-ms3-ready-p-477.html
IMHO you will be fine with MS2 3.0, this is what a lot of people are using
Otherwise, this is the MS3 Pro:
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/ms3pro-standalone-ecu-with-839-wiring-harness-p-538.html

I'm still researching which one to go with. The MS2 is half the price. I don't have an unlimited budget. However, if it will make a big difference, I will go with the MS3P.

#2 Removing K-Jet Components that will no longer be used (for both fuel and ignition). I believe I will be able to remove the following: Cold Start Valve, Warm Up Regulator, Frequency Valve, The mechanical injectors and stainless lines, the fuel distributor and air metering assembly (the top half is being replaced with the nicely designed turbo inlet assembly to use the original throttle body). Does the Idle-Air Control Valve get reused? I will be removing the Lambda setup, Idle computer, and ignition computer as well, correct? How about any additional sensors or vacuum lines, distributor advance, etc?

#3 Fuel Feed Lines - Either I find adaptor fittings to the original line from the fuel filter and return line to the tank, or i cut off the fittings and use compression fittings and adaptors to the new setup that will use AN fittings. Any recommendations?
I want to do the "AN conversion in the near future, so I'm interested in this one. I figured all the things (it will start from the top of the fuel filter with a AN6 adaptor) but I'm having a doubt to reach the return hard line fitting, I guess someone here did it with a AN6 to AN5 adaptor

#4 Intake air temperature sensor. Looking for a part number and how to mount it to the lower air metering housing.
IMHO buy all the sensors from diyautotune. their sensors have a 3/8" npt thread and you can buy the "weld on" adaptors
#5 MAP sensor, I believe MS2 comes with one that will be plenty for what I am doing. I believe the MS3P does not. In this case, what would be a good part #?
MS2 has an integrated map but sometimes it can be difficult to route the vacuum hose to the cabin
#6 Coolant Temp Sensor, can I use the original or a different one? Research says they like the GM version, but I don't know how to adapt.
one tap in the Y pipe is already 3/8", you can use that one or you can buy a M18 to 3/8" adaptor for the water pump (as I did)
#7 Alternator relocation -Per last DPI conversation "use brass spacer as the turn buckle is for m8/5/16 and the timing cover is m7" Anyone have clarification on this? I am currently using a turnbuckle adjustment setup in place of the original adjuster bracket.
do you already have the relocation bracket? I guess he means that with the M8 turn buckle you will have some sloppiness since the timing cover bolt is M7
In addition, DPI did provide a recommendation on the:
-TPS sensor: TCI brand part # 377400 plus Holley Part # 20-40 fitting. Just need to figure out where to put the fitting specifically.
the remote TPS looks great, never thought of something similar
-Aeromotive Fuel pressure regulator – Part # 13129
-Software - "free source tunerstudio is best free version and registered i would pay the 100 bucks for reg
unlocks a number of things that can help with drivability" I believe this to be correct: http://www.tunerstudio.com/index.php/tuner-studio/tunerstudioms

I believe these to be the correct injectors at 24 lbs and at 45psi fuel system pressure: http://www.jegs.com/i/Accel/110/150624/10002/-1
are those high or low impedance? consider also these ones http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/jeep-0280156013-generation-3 they were a perfect bolt on for my original efi manifold and rails (from the later PRVs)
I did find fuel injector pigtails (6): http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/fuel-injector-pigtails-bosch-ev1-p-48.html
IMHO buy the uncrimped connectors http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/fuel-injector-connector-bosch-ev1-p-111.html
to do the efi conversion you should buy first some good electrical tools like a pin crimper with interchangeable dies, solder, heat shrinks sleeves, various crimp connectors and so on
I can buy the pre-built DPI fuel rails or I can source undrilled stock from work here, just need to measure length: http://www.jegs.com/p/FAST/FAST-Universal-Fuel-Rails/2390014/10002/-1?itemPerPage=60&pno=1
maybe just buying the DPI rails will save you from other headaches

also consider the Innovate LC2 lambda module





Some of the EFI guys have kept the stock idle system

maybe the best thing to do, in conjunction with you idle ECU



Thoughts on this if stepper is best option? http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/custom-idle-air-control-body-for-use-with-jeep-40l-iac-valve-p-69.html and then this: http://www.autozone.com/engine-management/idle-air-control-valve/duralast-idle-air-control-valve/jeep/cherokee-2wd/1996/6-cylinders-s-4-0l-mfi/195720_0_0/?checkfit=true with this plug http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/iac-valve-pigtail-p-70.html


I bought that kit and ended reproducing it in a welded block on the "efi elbow" under the throttle body
38866





a question open to all, have you ever tried this "open element" IAT sensor on NA engines? http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/gm-open-element-iat-sensor-with-connector-p-116.html it is said to be used on forced inductions, but I never completely liked the use of the same "closed element" sensor both for IAT and CLT http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/gm-closed-element-clt-iat-sensor-with-connector-p-115.html

[Delorean Industries]

You can not used a closed element sensor for the IAT. This will heat soak and cause a false compensation for your short term MAP/CLT trim. Stock idle motors are not ideal for forced induction in this case. Also the cold start tube needs to be removed and the intake manifold plugged. The distance from the throttle plate to idle motor in the stock application is too great. You need the idle motor as close to the throttle body as possible.

[dn010]

I should have clarified: Josh said he was planning to use a 3.0 board, not 3.57. The 3.0 board still required the modification. After DPI Josh's post, I guess it doesn't matter anyway.


I made literally zero modifications to my MS2 Extra 3.57 board to run the stock idle motor. I just set it up in Tuner Studio as a PWM valve. Works completely fine.

You can still use it with the stock manifold and the fuel rails. You'd simply have to mount it remotely, and run a hose to the "pipe of agony" that goes into the mixture unit.

Don't bother spending the money on a coolant sensor adapter. Just unscrew the existing adapter used by the thermotime switch, and drill/tap it to fit the new coolant sensor. All of 5 minutes of work, and costs you nothing if you already have a tap & die set.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

I made literally zero modifications to my MS2 Extra 3.57 board to run the stock idle motor. I just set it up in Tuner Studio as a PWM valve. Works completely fine.

You can still use it with the stock manifold and the fuel rails. You'd simply have to mount it remotely, and run a hose to the "pipe of agony" that goes into the mixture unit.

Don't bother spending the money on a coolant sensor adapter. Just unscrew the existing adapter used by the thermotime switch, and drill/tap it to fit the new coolant sensor. All of 5 minutes of work, and costs you nothing if you already have a tap & die set.

"Note that if you are using a PWM Idle valve, such as those used in some Ford products, the standard transistor on a V3 main board is not sufficient to power the valve directly (on a V3.57 SMD main board, or a MicroSquirt, the FIlde transistor *IS* sufficient to drive a PWM idle valve without modifications)." So I can run the 3.57 version board? I thought it wouldn't run right with odd-fire? Does it matter if i lengthen the hose to move it away from the fuel rail/will it affect idle?
I'll take you up on the coolant adapter idea. thanks!

[DeloreanJoshQ]

maybe the best thing to do, in conjunction with you idle ECU



I bought that kit and ended reproducing it in a welded block on the "efi elbow" under the throttle body
38866





a question open to all, have you ever tried this "open element" IAT sensor on NA engines? http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/gm-open-element-iat-sensor-with-connector-p-116.html it is said to be used on forced inductions, but I never completely liked the use of the same "closed element" sensor both for IAT and CLT http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/gm-closed-element-clt-iat-sensor-with-connector-p-115.html

Thanks for all of the help and suggestions!!!

[DeloreanJoshQ]

You can not used a closed element sensor for the IAT. This will heat soak and cause a false compensation for your short term MAP/CLT trim. Stock idle motors are not ideal for forced induction in this case. Also the cold start tube needs to be removed and the intake manifold plugged. The distance from the throttle plate to idle motor in the stock application is too great. You need the idle motor as close to the throttle body as possible.

-Understand to use the open element sensor for the IAT. Where exactly is the best spot to drill and tap the hole to mount it on the lower housing of the mixture unit?

-Which Idle Motor do you recommend for my application and where and how do you recommend placing and plumbing it?

-What is the best method for plugging the intake manifold in place of the cold start tube?

I appreciate all of the help and support in this project and DPI product Josh.

-JQ

[cineman]

On my twin turbo, I'm actually running MS "II" with PCB 3.0, with "extra" firmware on it.
I started from this kit: http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megasquirtii-programmable-efi-system-pcb30-kit-black-case-p-119.html

I do control both fuel and timing. The 3.0 has his original distributor cap and rotor, in front of the right cam. I'm using his original Renault Safrane V6 Coil and power module, wich the engine used in oem renault configs also in turbo engine.
It's something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/RENAULT-25-2-8-V6-INJECTION-1986-TO-1992-IGNITION-COIL-WITH-MODULE-LEMARK-/171944193168?hash=item2808ac2c90:g:jyAAAOSwWnFWAW9 I

You need just to bring a coil signal at +12V with no power, so could be directly from MS with a small transistor to buffer, and +12V power and ground.

I'm not controlling IDLE, i have just some air screw to regulate, but is quite stable.
I tried using the stock 3wire pwm motor, but was not happy with it. You cant' use the 3wire directly from MSII 3.0 board, you need to make an external 2 power transistor board, or mount a single power transistor inside it, and use a power resistor external, but I don't like this configuration.
I think i will do like my friend BABIS did, with the valve suggested.

My actual plan however is to go to MS "III" ; i bought also the new ecu: http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megasquirtiii-daughterboard-kit-p-398.html
for the purpose to go to WASTED SPARK ignition, with 3 double coils from Renault Laguna, with 3 of this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BOSCH-Ignition-Coil-Fits-RENAULT-Espace-Laguna-Megane-MPV-1-8-3-0L-1993-2003-/172029471496?hash=item280dc16b08:g:hVMAAOSwbdpWbqB X&vxp=mtr

You can upgrade from MSII 3.0 to MSIII with the new ecu, but you need also the new bigger box: http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megasquirtiii-v30-black-anodized-case-p-442.html

I also have this: http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/ms3-knock-module-kit-p-522.html , using original OEM renault safrane V6 knock sensor on the engine.

I made from steel some laser cutted "half moon" to put in place of the stock 3.0 distributor cap, so i can put a phase sensor in place of it, for going wasted spark.

My prv is a 3.0lt even firing so i'm using his original intake, with some mods for the throttle body, with I'm not actually happy for. I'm using Renault 25 throttle sensor, but not suggest it, it was just was I was having around.

In my intentions is also to go back to the original Intake system, but I can't do it directly on the 3.0 heads, cause the heigh is different: i need to make 2 adapter spacer plates, and also find a solutions for the fuel injector.
On the 3.0 intakes the fuel injectors are on the intake side, on the old k-jetronic intake the inj are on the heads, so my plan will be to make that adapter spacer with injector bung welded on it, it space permits, or to modify the k-jetronic intake
welding in some place the fuel inj bungs.

I would like to do this for having more a stock appereance, i do have a "V" turbo Legend cast from Chris N. I would like to use, but I need the k-jetronic intake.
I like the idea of the remote throttle body that JoshDPI suggested, so i can use all the original throttle body parts of the stock engine.

[Delorean Industries]

38892

[DeloreanJoshQ]

38892

Thanks

[Delorean Industries]

Current configuration. (minus oil filter relocation that has been relocated again)
38928

[lazabby]

"Note that if you are using a PWM Idle valve, such as those used in some Ford products, the standard transistor on a V3 main board is not sufficient to power the valve directly (on a V3.57 SMD main board, or a MicroSquirt, the FIlde transistor *IS* sufficient to drive a PWM idle valve without modifications)." So I can run the 3.57 version board? I thought it wouldn't run right with odd-fire? Does it matter if i lengthen the hose to move it away from the fuel rail/will it affect idle?
I'll take you up on the coolant adapter idea. thanks!

Don't go with the 3.57 board. Two of us got the 3.57 board and we spent hours trying to get it to work properly. We we borrowed a 3.0 box and installed it, the Delorean ran great. I still have the 3.57 board but Matt at DIYAutotune had to modify it for it to work and even now it's not 100%. I have to open it up and make another change inside. The other owner had his box switched out from 3.57 to 3.0 and now the car is running fine. Spittybug can go into more detals on why the 3.57 didn't work.

[opethmike]

Is it just ignition control when you have trouble with the 3.57? I am running fuel only and have zero problems with mine.

[Delorean Industries]

Yes. There are work around solutions and I believe it can be/is addressed on all current boards.

[lazabby]

Is it just ignition control when you have trouble with the 3.57? I am running fuel only and have zero problems with mine.

You are correct. When we first fired up my car on fuel only, the car ran like a champ even though it had not been started for two months. When we turned on spark we had issues.

[lazabby]

To let everyone know what issues we had with the 3.57 box and what was done, here is an email from Matt with DYIAutoTune:

"The main difference between the V3.0 and V3.57 is the input impedance -
it's higher on the V3.0. I have shipped this one with three
resistor-on-a-wire jumpers to let you change the impedance. The one I
think will be the best bet is a 15K with green leads, and I have put
that in your ECU. There is also a red 10K and a blue 20K - use the red
one if it won't sync at low RPM, or the blue if it's having high RPM
problems but low RPM is fine."

This was the change he made in my box. When I took my car in to the dyno shop, there was sync loss (?) at very high RPM so I plan to swap the green lead with the blue one to see if that makes a difference.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

To let everyone know what issues we had with the 3.57 box and what was done, here is an email from Matt with DYIAutoTune:

"The main difference between the V3.0 and V3.57 is the input impedance -
it's higher on the V3.0. I have shipped this one with three
resistor-on-a-wire jumpers to let you change the impedance. The one I
think will be the best bet is a 15K with green leads, and I have put
that in your ECU. There is also a red 10K and a blue 20K - use the red
one if it won't sync at low RPM, or the blue if it's having high RPM
problems but low RPM is fine."

This was the change he made in my box. When I took my car in to the dyno shop, there was sync loss (?) at very high RPM so I plan to swap the green lead with the blue one to see if that makes a difference.
Keep me in the loop on this. Is there any benefit to having the 3.57 over the 3.0 for what I am doing in your opinion?

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Here is my current "Twin-Turbo DeLorean Road Map" Please let me know if you see anything missing or out of line. Thanks!

-Purchased "Custom" Kit from DPI
http://www.deloreanindustries.com/performance/
-Turbos- Garrett 1548, "largest T25 flanged water-cooled available undersized for lower boost applications, they spool very fast and give a very nice power range. They do top out from testing at 390+ ft lbs"
-oil feed and drain lines and fittings (short one Eaton fitting for the oil feed on drivers side to turbo, DPI won’t have it until Friday, Dec 4th, so that will come separate in USPS envelope; don’t have it as of 12-11-15)
-Turbo coolant lines and fittings
-Compressor inlet piping
-Partial Compressor outlet piping
-K-JET bypass adapter plate and piping
-Silicone connectors and clamps
-header to turbo adapter pipes
-tail pipes
-Waste Gate dump pipes/adaptors (waiting from DPI; don’t have it as of 12-11-15)
-PCV fittings for valve covers
-Oil pan gasket
-Gussets between turbo and flange double gaskets one on each side of that others are waste gates and intake pipe supports
-To Buy List
-2 K&N air filters to fit in pontoons or inside lower trailing arm air deflectors, measure and select from here: http://www.jegs.com/v/K-N/599
-2 Blow-Off Valves – Vee Port Pro Turbo Smart http://www.jegs.com/i/Turbosmart/911/TS-0205-1131/10002/-1
-2 Wastegates – Ultra-gate 38 Turbo Smart http://www.jegs.com/i/Turbosmart/911/TS-0501-1102/10002/-1
-(2) 5 psi spring kits for the wastegates http://www.jegs.com/i/Turbosmart/911/TS-0505-2002/10002/-1
-(6) 24 lb injectors – 45psi, http://www.jegs.com/i/Accel/110/150624/10002/-1
-Fuel injector pigtails (6): http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/fuel-injector-pigtails-bosch-ev1-p-48.html
-Fuel Rails - DPI Fuel Rails or
-Make my own from F.A.S.T. rail stock http://www.jegs.com/p/FAST/FAST-Universal-Fuel-Rails/2390014/10002/-1
-14MM is the diameter of the hole for the injector with spacing. Rail length is around 14”
-Special Drill bit borrowed from another DMCtalk member and have tracking number
-Wide band O2 sensor - Innovate http://www.jegs.com/i/Innovate+Motorsports/540/3795/10002/-1
-Megasquirt base ms2- 3.0 (not 3.57 as the fly-back has odd fire issues) http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megasquirtii-engine-management-system-wpcb3-assembled-unit-p-65.html
-Megasquirt ecu to relay board wiring harness- http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megasquirt-relay-cable-p-47.html
-Megasquirt Relay Board - http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megasquirt-relay-board-assembled-unit-p-32.html
-Megasquirt Relay Board Main Harness Wiring- http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megasquirt-wiring-bundle-long-p-101.html
-Megasquirt Tuning Cable- http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megasquirt-tuning-cable-db9-straight-thru-p-35.html?osCsid=13836f78e8afec2a7f8c2e6fbfcef9f3
-Idle Motor Housing http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/custom-idle-air-control-body-for-use-with-jeep-40l-iac-valve-p-69.html?osCsid=12b7bfeaadc5cf1d8e00ec93729dfe37
-Need to figure out how to plumb this correctly into throttle body
-Step Idle Motor http://www.autozone.com/engine-management/idle-air-control-valve/duralast-idle-air-control-valve/jeep/cherokee-2wd/1996/6-cylinders-s-4-0l-mfi/195720_0_0/?checkfit=true
-Idle Motor pigtail http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/iac-valve-pigtail-p-70.html
-Software - tunerstudio is best version, registered unlocks a number of things that can help with drivability http://www.tunerstudio.com/index.php/tuner-studio/tunerstudioms
-Alternator relocation bracket - Still need to find the pivot part; i can source the adjuster with rod ends like this:http://www.jegs.com/p/March-Performance/March-Adjustment-Rods/763396/10002/-1
-Aeromotive Fuel pressure regulator – 13129 http://www.jegs.com/i/Aeromotive/027/13129/10002/-1
-Coolant sensor with pigtail – http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/gm-closed-element-clt-iat-sensor-with-pigtail-p-58.html
-Coolant adaptor for at water pump – from DPI or drill out original to correct size (trying this first).
-map sensor – megasquirt MS2 already comes with one
-tps sensor – TCI brand part # 377400 plus Holley Part # 20-40 http://www.jegs.com/i/TCI/890/377400/10002/-1
- http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/20-40/10002/-1
or something more compact?
-intake temp sensor with pigtail – http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/gm-open-element-iat-sensor-with-pigtail-p-62.html?osCsid=b610ae17c15c71ae088839d47a99c7c2 - mounted in lower metering housing.
-misc fuel lines (will you black hoses and fittings from JEGS)– the lines going to the return-to-tank and supply-from-tank lines, the threads are:
-M12 x 1.5 (Metric) fuel line will end in a male fitting that threads into the fuel filter
-http://www.jegs.com/i/Russell/799/670510/10002/-1
-1/2-20"/-5 AN flare for the return to the tank. http://www.jegs.com/i/Earl%26%23039%3Bs/361/991907/10002/-1
-Better valve cover gaskets-Looking for a source for these
-To Do List
-drill and tap holes in block for turbo drain fittings
-lock advance mechanism in distributor and don’t connect vacuum line
-weld PCV system bungs into valve covers
-Remove old K-Jet Components –Cold Start Valve, Control Pressure Regulator (Warm Up Regulator), Fuel Injectors, Fuel Mixture Unit, Fuel Distributor, Fuel Hoses, Frequency Valve, any electronics, sensors, plugs, etc.
-Remove Cold Start Tube and plug intake manifold
-Map out the wiring for the relay board and MS2
-Tune for fuel first, then for igniton with MS2

What do you all think of this? Any other major specific parts I am missing or that I have incorrectly listed?

[lazabby]

Are you able to convert to EFI before installing the Turbo. If so I would recommend that in order to get it running first.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Are you able to convert to EFI before installing the Turbo. If so I would recommend that in order to get it running first.
I'd really rather do everything one time then going in and converting to EFI, and then going back in and converting to twin turbo both in hardware and software....

[Josh]

The 3.57 board is just a 3.0 board with surface mount components. No difference otherwise. I think the issue is your poor rpm signal.

[opethmike]

I'd really rather do everything one time then going in and converting to EFI, and then going back in and converting to twin turbo both in hardware and software....

Trust me. Do one thing at a time. This is a massively complex project, and when (not if) something doesn't go right, it will be much easier to figure out what is wrong when you've only changed a few things at a time as opposed to many.

[lazabby]

The 3.57 board is just a 3.0 board with surface mount components. No difference otherwise. I think the issue is your poor rpm signal.

Two Deloreans couldn't get the 3.57 boards to work. We went round and round with DYI for months on the issue as they insisted the problem was with our cars. One of the owners ran fuel only, took his car to DYI on the east coast and told them to get it running with the spark turned on. They couldn't. They swapped out the 3.57 for a 3.0 and the car ran great. I then mailed my box to them to get them to swap it for a 3.0. Matt with DYI asked to make a change to my 3.57 and he made the change and sent it back to me. It worked but I still have sync loss at real high RPMs. Yesterday I changed the jumper wire that should take care of it. We'll see when I take the car back to the dyno shop. The point is, two Deloreans could not get the stock 3.57 board to work so I recommend going with the 3.0 unless someone is willing to make the modifications to the 3.57.

[Josh]

Two Deloreans couldn't get the 3.57 boards to work. We went round and round with DYI for months on the issue as they insisted the problem was with our cars. One of the owners ran fuel only, took his car to DYI on the east coast and told them to get it running with the spark turned on. They couldn't. They swapped out the 3.57 for a 3.0 and the car ran great. I then mailed my box to them to get them to swap it for a 3.0. Matt with DYI asked to make a change to my 3.57 and he made the change and sent it back to me. It worked but I still have sync loss at real high RPMs. Yesterday I changed the jumper wire that should take care of it. We'll see when I take the car back to the dyno shop. The point is, two Deloreans could not get the stock 3.57 board to work so I recommend going with the 3.0 unless someone is willing to make the modifications to the 3.57.

I 100% agree with DIY, the issue is with the cars. I am not sure where you are pulling your rpm signal from but the coil or distributor is not a good signal. It works but only somewhat. This explains the sync loss at high rpms. The correct way to do it is fabricating a crank position sensor. I ran my 3.0 like this fuel and spark, no issues at all.

[lazabby]

I 100% agree with DIY, the issue is with the cars. I am not sure where you are pulling your rpm signal from but the coil or distributor is not a good signal. It works but only somewhat. This explains the sync loss at high rpms. The correct way to do it is fabricating a crank position sensor. I ran my 3.0 like this fuel and spark, no issues at all.

My point is, two Deloreans couldn't run on the stock 3.57. DYI couldn't get the stock 3.57 to work. It may be the RPM signal in the SDelorean but my point is, a stock 3.57 won't work unless there is a modication somewhere - either the 3.57 board or in the Delorean somewhere. We could not figure out where the issue was in the Delorean. But the 3.0 board works just fine.

[Delorean Industries]

The rpm signal pulled from the coil or tapped from the white and slate tach feed anywhere will not work properly. If you sample the signal it is unique to odd fires and produces a uneven rpm signal. Always use cranked mounted pick up with efi for best results.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Hey guys, as stated, I'm going to go with the 3.0 board for now based on the reasons cited.
In the meantime, would any of you know where exactly i can correctly connect the idle air motor to, where to find the best valve cover gaskets, and where I can find a pivot alternator bracket to move the alternator up and out of the way of the turbo on the passenger side (already have the adjuster part figured out?
Again, thank you for the help.

[opethmike]

Already answered the idle motor question. Stock location, but you'll need to physically move the idle motor somewhere else, and just use hoses to plumb into where it usually goes.

While I have a different intake, I use the same implementation, as I still use the stock idle motor. Works completely fine.

[Josh]

Hey guys, as stated, I'm going to go with the 3.0 board for now based on the reasons cited.
In the meantime, would any of you know where exactly i can correctly connect the idle air motor to, where to find the best valve cover gaskets, and where I can find a pivot alternator bracket to move the alternator up and out of the way of the turbo on the passenger side (already have the adjuster part figured out?
Again, thank you for the help.

doesnt your turbo kit come with a crank sensor setup? No need to go to the *magical* 3.0 board.

x2 on what mike said about the idle motor
Josh has decent gaskets.
You will probably need to make the alt bracket as far as I know. The the turbo ones I have seen are just welded up out of flat bar. Should be pretty straight forward.

[Delorean Industries]

We only provided the hot side components and a few misc items for project. The rest is being sourced by the owner per his choice.

[Josh]

in that case, Josh Q contact me about a crank position sensor. I am making one for another member anyway. I strongly suggest you do not go off the coil / distributor with all the work you are going to put into this build.

But your choice

[dn010]

I'm not sure what kind of space restrictions you'll have with the added turbo/plumbing but locating a sensor on the engine shouldn't be too tough. You'll just need to find somewhere on the cover that has a bolt hole and enough room to fit a sensor, custom make a bracket for the sensor and then weld or bolt a trigger wheel to your pulley. I also made clips to route the senor wire so it wouldn't rub on any parts as well as locating it away from heat etc. My first sensor was located like Josh's, on the muffler bracket and I welded a trigger wheel to my pulley. After some issues I opted to move the sensor and bolt the trigger wheel to the pulley instead so that it could be adjusted if needed.

I think the only thing I did with the white/slate wire was hook it to the tach out on MS in order to get my dash tach to work.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

We only provided the hot side components and a few misc items for project. The rest is being sourced by the owner per his choice.
I appreciate your kit flexibility Josh B; I'm really looking forward to completing this project.
Any ETA on when you will answer my Facebook PM questions from exactly 2 weeks ago? We had a steady and excellent Q/A going up until 12/22/15.
Also, I have been patiently waiting for the "road map"/instructions that you were providing (modifications/sensor locations, etc) as well as the remaining kit pieces that were to be sent to me. There are some items that I would still like to purchase from DPI if you are interested as well.
I do appreciate your post-sale kit tech support.
Thanks again,
Josh Q

[DeloreanJoshQ]

I'm not sure what kind of space restrictions you'll have with the added turbo/plumbing but locating a sensor on the engine shouldn't be too tough. You'll just need to find somewhere on the cover that has a bolt hole and enough room to fit a sensor, custom make a bracket for the sensor and then weld or bolt a trigger wheel to your pulley. I also made clips to route the senor wire so it wouldn't rub on any parts as well as locating it away from heat etc. My first sensor was located like Josh's, on the muffler bracket and I welded a trigger wheel to my pulley. After some issues I opted to move the sensor and bolt the trigger wheel to the pulley instead so that it could be adjusted if needed.

I think the only thing I did with the white/slate wire was hook it to the tach out on MS in order to get my dash tach to work.
Where can I find a correct trigger wheel to bolt to it?

[DeloreanJoshQ]

in that case, Josh Q contact me about a crank position sensor. I am making one for another member anyway. I strongly suggest you do not go off the coil / distributor with all the work you are going to put into this build.

But your choice

PM Sent

[dn010]

DIY sells 36-1 wheels, I got my second one there. First one came from eBay.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Already answered the idle motor question. Stock location, but you'll need to physically move the idle motor somewhere else, and just use hoses to plumb into where it usually goes.

While I have a different intake, I use the same implementation, as I still use the stock idle motor. Works completely fine.

As Josh DPI stated, "Stock idle motors are not ideal for forced induction in this case. Also the cold start tube needs to be removed and the intake manifold plugged. The distance from the throttle plate to idle motor in the stock application is too great. You need the idle motor as close to the throttle body as possible."
Therefore, I need to locate the motor as close as possible to the throttle body and I would assume the connections have to also be moved closer to the throttle body. It is the locations that I do not know of and am seeking answers to.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

DIY sells 36-1 wheels, I got my second one there. First one came from eBay.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

I found the wheels and found 36-1, but there are multiple options. Can you point me to which diameter and recommend with or without slots?
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/trigger-wheels-c-48.html?osCsid=77ca590e1974fee37d4a2b2e6c8afaf9

[dn010]

It all really depends on how you'd like to affix these but I used the 6 3/4 wheel with slots so I could bolt it on and adjust it as necessary. With the slots I suppose you can also weld it on but be careful with the balance of it.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[DeloreanJoshQ]

It all really depends on how you'd like to affix these but I used the 6 3/4 wheel with slots so I could bolt it on and adjust it as necessary. With the slots I suppose you can also weld it on but be careful with the balance of it.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

I'd prefer to bolt on than weld on. Assuming i center it and use the same bolts, nuts, and washers, balancing should not be an issue?

[opethmike]

Why? Welding will be a permanent solution that can't suffer from timing drift should bolts loosen.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Why? Welding will be a permanent solution that can't suffer from timing drift should bolts loosen.
The main reason is that I don't have welding experience, nor do I have a welder. So I would have to get another person involved which I would prefer not to do.
My solution would be to use locktite and correct tightening to prevent timing drift.

[dn010]

I bolted mine using loctite as well. I did not weld so that I can move the wheel in the future should I need to relocate my sensor. Using all the same hardware and locating the holes precisely, I do not have any balance issues nor have the bolts ever loosened.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[Delorean Industries]

Yeah... dec 22nd. Right around when Christianity obstructed me from productivity. Couple that with a Hokey religions and ancient weapons in theaters and that about sums up the last few weeks.

[Delorean Industries]

We meter mailed the last fitting usps to the jeggs address the same week you picked up the initial components. I knew you were in a hurry and wanted the parts asap so we had everything minus the JIC shipped next day after payment.

A "road map" on how I would do this and or would expect it to be done seems redundant. My method for this process is the only one that matters. I won't waste my time or breath on the subject once an opinionated discussion starts. As soon as I noted we were polling the community at large for advice on how to finish this project after I pretty much already spelled it out I just stepped back and started monitoring the discussion to prevent any major disasters.

[opethmike]

As Josh DPI stated, "Stock idle motors are not ideal for forced induction in this case. Also the cold start tube needs to be removed and the intake manifold plugged. The distance from the throttle plate to idle motor in the stock application is too great. You need the idle motor as close to the throttle body as possible."
Therefore, I need to locate the motor as close as possible to the throttle body and I would assume the connections have to also be moved closer to the throttle body. It is the locations that I do not know of and am seeking answers to.

Okay, but why? I'd like to understand they physics behind why those choices aren't good enough.

[opethmike]

Actually, nevermind; I give up on this thread.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

We meter mailed the last fitting usps to the jeggs address the same week you picked up the initial components. I knew you were in a hurry and wanted the parts asap so we had everything minus the JIC shipped next day after payment.

A "road map" on how I would do this and or would expect it to be done seems redundant. My method for this process is the only one that matters. I won't waste my time or breath on the subject once an opinionated discussion starts. As soon as I noted we were polling the community at large for advice on how to finish this project after I pretty much already spelled it out I just stepped back and started monitoring the discussion to prevent any major disasters.

Josh, would you please pm me tracking number and package description? I checked the warehouse and still don't have the fitting or the blow off valves dump pipes.
Also, would you please pm me the instructions if you dont want to post them here? There are still loose ends to tie up. Thanks again.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Okay, but why? I'd like to understand they physics behind why those choices aren't good enough.

Mike, I am guessing that the reason the idle speed motor has to be as close to the throttle body as possible is due to the response time when opening and closing the throttle blades. Most idle speed motors on newer vehicles follow this rule. The extra vacuum hose must cause a slight delay in response time and therefore smoother transition is not as easy to achieve.
I'm also guessing that the stepper motor design is more desired for the same reason; the originals will most likely work, but the updated designs provide better performance.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

It's been 9 days since I last posted here. Not a whole lot has changed; this is due to missing parts and information....I've texted, emailed, FB messaged, DMCTalk messaged, every other way I can think of to try to get ahold of Josh Bengston and no help with information on installation.
-I was told by Josh B that my missing wastegate dump pipes and fitting would be reshipped again, this time to my home address on Monday the 11th per the DPI business email response. We live 2 hours apart. I still don't have the parts and no tracking numbers provided for either shipments.....update=Josh just emailed the tracking info to me shortly after this post. Thanks Josh!

I decided to look more closely at my twin-turbo kit small parts and discovered more missing or "doesn't come with the kit" parts such as:
-Turbo oil drain gaskets for both turbos (2). I did get both hose adapters and even the bolts though. I believe these should have came with the kit.
-Turbo to turbo/wastegate pipe hardware (8 bolts, nuts, and washers to mount both turbos). Hardware store I bet is the answer.
-Turbo oil drain hose to block adapters (2 for both sides-something like 1/2 NPT to 10 or 12 AN). I believe these should have came with the kit.
-Turbo to tail pipe gaskets and hardware. (2 gaskets and 8 bolts, nuts, and washers for both sides). The gaskets should have come with the kit. bolts-see above guess.
-Turbo coolant outlet hose to engine adapters (2). I received 4 complete AN push-loc hose assemblies and two block adapters for the coolant feeds, but no adapters to return back to the block. Of course I could never get my answer on how the return hoses route back to the engine so.....guessing adapters...
-The aforementioned wastegate dump pipes
-The aforementioned Driverside turbo oil feed line to block adapter-

I also am questioning on the polished stainless intake pipes that came with the kit regarding whether the ends that connect to the turbo should be bead-rolled or not. The other ends use v-band clamps to make a tight seal to the turbo "W" pipe.
39096

I also have some mystery parts that I am trying to figure out; perhaps someone can help:
39097
-The two orange-ish round gaskets...dont know what they go to...made of silicone/rubber.
-There is a pipe plug with an o-ring. I am guessing that it goes into the hole where the cold start valve tube is removed from.
-The 45 angle adapter. I am guessing i need it possibly for the passenger side turbo oil feed to engine block adapter.
-I know what the blue one is :)
I also received 2 aluminum male weld fittings that are supposed to welded to the valve covers for an evac system. However, There are no hoses included as well as instructions on where to weld the fittings and more importantly, where to run the hoses from there. My guess is to the turbo inlet pipes. However, without baffling or some kind of way to block oil vapor...I am guessing.....

I have borrowed a fuel injector step drill bit to make my own fuel rails, will be doing this soon.

That is all for now...

[Delorean Industries]

No. I responded to your email from three hours ago. I didn't see your post until my inbox exploded with you being at it again. I clearly stated publicly that I would be unavailable for a good portion of this month. But I keep getting sucked back in.

I'm going to cut to the chase on this. This is a highly sophisticated installation by all means. You opted for a fraction of the required components to make this happen. Installation of this requires a serious degree of understanding fundamentals of engine design and turbo charging. These components are supplied to many in "jobber/tuner" form for those will this knowledge level with no issue. In this case I unfortunately need to say even with my attempted guidance which was largely over looked this isn't going to work. No more than three things taken from the last post alone would result in detrimental results. My suggestion is s return for a full refund with associated shipping costs both ways covered by us. Please don't take this personally but this is not going to end well, my explicit advice has been over looked and second guessed to the community at large and we are taking a public beating with your mass posting of "missing this or that" etc and questioning our components with malicious intent or not. I literally can not handle having to watch and go through this bolt by bolt process to its end what ever that may be. I made an error in judgment and thought you had a much better grasp on the principles relating to this project. I apologize for misreading this.

[opethmike]

:popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:

[Chris_Von_Bron]

Or perhaps the car can go to DPIJosh and just let him get on with it.

[SEO Motorsports]

Okay, but why? I'd like to understand they physics behind why those choices aren't good enough.

I just saw this and thought I would help answer. In reality the stock idle motor does not know the differance of a N/A or Boosted car. You just have to make sure that the inlet for the idle valve gets it's air from the charge pipe before the throttle body. As the engine goes into boost the pressure on both sides of the valve will be equal. The idle valves job is to simply bypass air around the throttle body to maintain an idle. Using PWM to adjust the duty cycle of the valve to open it to achieve the idle you want. Now for the DeLorean Idle valve, there is a little secret on how to wire it to make it work. You have to put a 50 watt 30ohm resistor on the ground wire that closes the valve. The center pin is 12V power the other two pins will open or close the valve when energized. Put the resistor inline with the ground wire that closes the valve. The other pin that opens the valve will be the PWM gnd signal from the megasquirt. Make sure the transistor used for the idle is a higher current one and not the small standard ones. I find a three or two wire PWM valve easiest to dial in. The response time or catching the idle as the RPM falls can be tuned and is a standard feature of megasquirt. This is especially needed when the A/C compressor is running. If you have the A/C, and electrical load properly integrated with the ECU, idle is never and issue and can be rock solid during all conditions.



Anyway, OP cool project!! Sometimes the build is the best part of all. Take your time and do the research, one step at a time.

[JohnLane]

Is this one up and running?

[DeloreanJoshQ]

No. I responded to your email from three hours ago. I didn't see your post until my inbox exploded with you being at it again. I clearly stated publicly that I would be unavailable for a good portion of this month. But I keep getting sucked back in.

I'm going to cut to the chase on this. This is a highly sophisticated installation by all means. You opted for a fraction of the required components to make this happen. Installation of this requires a serious degree of understanding fundamentals of engine design and turbo charging. These components are supplied to many in "jobber/tuner" form for those will this knowledge level with no issue. In this case I unfortunately need to say even with my attempted guidance which was largely over looked this isn't going to work. No more than three things taken from the last post alone would result in detrimental results. My suggestion is s return for a full refund with associated shipping costs both ways covered by us. Please don't take this personally but this is not going to end well, my explicit advice has been over looked and second guessed to the community at large and we are taking a public beating with your mass posting of "missing this or that" etc and questioning our components with malicious intent or not. I literally can not handle having to watch and go through this bolt by bolt process to its end what ever that may be. I made an error in judgment and thought you had a much better grasp on the principles relating to this project. I apologize for misreading this.
"...do you sell a bolt-on twin turbo system?" No. Recently people have shown to be too retarded to handle it. We sell systems for install to select shops around the world or offer in house install.

5189351894
I would like to offer to anyone interested in doing this build and who would have questions on how to do it to contact me directly. I will be more than happy to help you out, provide instructions, as well as pictures and videos that I have documented of this completed build in great detail. I have made many great friends both in and out of the Delorean community that have helped me out and I will pay it forward in return. It was a great experience too good not to share.
I would also like to encourage those interested in doing this not to let anyone change your mind by talking down to you, telling you and others that you are not capable, or by attempting to talk you out of it; that is the easy way out for both that person and you.
-JQ

[Josh]

... still trying to figure out why you blocked me?

[Delorean Industries]

... still trying to figure out why you blocked me?

LOL I think we all are....

[Drive Stainless]

Josh Q. did a great job taking his time and figuring this all out. It was clearly his first time putting a turbo engine together, and his patience and persistence are beginning to pay off. The setup looks wonderful installed.

He will also have gained the knowledge to troubleshoot and repair problems with his project. Moreover, based on his firsthand knowledge, he can speak at length about the ups and downs of the installation process at car shows and club events. How many owners with a unique engine configuration can say the same?

Josh, you've earned this decal:
https://static.wixstatic.com/media/bf5384_2c66fdd6a6ee4df09525cc7c48c59870~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_498,h_332,al_c,q_90/file.jpg

[opethmike]

Is it still dumping raw fuel out of the exhaust?

[DeloreanJoshQ]

... still trying to figure out why you blocked me?
This was resolved, wrong Josh, my bad. Good catching up with you.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Josh Q. did a great job taking his time and figuring this all out. It was clearly his first time putting a turbo engine together, and his patience and persistence are beginning to pay off. The setup looks wonderful installed.

He will also have gained the knowledge to troubleshoot and repair problems with his project. Moreover, based on his firsthand knowledge, he can speak at length about the ups and downs of the installation process at car shows and club events. How many owners with a unique engine configuration can say the same?

Josh, you've earned this decal:
https://static.wixstatic.com/media/bf5384_2c66fdd6a6ee4df09525cc7c48c59870~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_498,h_332,al_c,q_90/file.jpg
Thank you Matthew. I really appreciate everything you have said.
But this is just the beginning. And my offer still stands to help others out and to be helpful instead of hurtful or spiteful.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Is it still dumping raw fuel out of the exhaust?
Good luck with your LS4 Mike! :kisses:

[Josh]

Good luck with your LS4 Mike! :kisses:

Mike is very talented at tuning megasquirt, it would be very valuable to you to be on his good books. I know he taught me how to tune over the course of a week thru fb chat. Very kind and very skilled!

Not a great idea to burn bridges.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Mike is very talented at tuning megasquirt, it would be very valuable to you to be on his good books. I know he taught me how to tune over the course of a week thru fb chat. Very kind and very skilled!

Not a great idea to burn bridges.

He can troll me on here and fb though with Adam and thats ok. Go ahead and pile it on. Keep it going.
I deserve it. SMH.

[sdg3205]

Mike is doped up on ghost chilli peppers again.

[kbrown84]

... still trying to figure out why you blocked me?

You too, eh? Blocked as well!

[Josh]

You too, eh? Blocked as well!

He added me back (based on that comment I assume) and we had a nice chat
I just noticed a week ago I am blocked again. lol.

[kbrown84]

He added me back (based on that comment I assume) and we had a nice chat
I just noticed a week ago I am blocked again. lol.

I dont know what his deal is... I had always gone out of my way to join the DCO, even bringing items for their annual meeting raffle with no reciprocity for any participation with IN-DMC events... I will no longer support the DCO as long as he is president of the group.

[opethmike]

Offers to tune EFI so it doesn't dump fuel out exhaust and damage engine. Get called troll.

Wut.

[Anonymous]

I dont know what his deal is... I had always gone out of my way to join the DCO, even bringing items for their annual meeting raffle with no reciprocity for any participation with IN-DMC events... I will no longer support the DCO as long as he is president of the group.
Kolin,
You have my phone number. Im still waiting for you to return my phone call.
Josh

[kbrown84]

Kolin,
You have my phone number. Im still waiting for you to return my phone call.
Josh

You'll be waiting a while; I've got nothing to say to you.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Delorean Industries]

Are we allowed to have multiple accounts? Or was this a "sonny v" accident?

[Nicholas R]

There are a lot of people named "Josh" in this thread... It's almost getting confusing.

[ssdelorean]

You'll be waiting a while; I've got nothing to say to you.

On facebook you said "Maybe he should work things out like an adult."

By trying to contact you via multiple avenues, he is.
If you actually do want a real resolution, respond to talk it out. If you just want to look like you won the flame war online, nevermind, continue as is.

[opethmike]

:popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:

[Anonymous]

You'll be waiting a while; I've got nothing to say to you.


Kolin,

I unfriended you last September (2016) after you never answered any of my replies on Facebook. I waited on the needed part you reached out and offered to me and, while you emphasize you offered for free, you can't deny i offered to pay for the part and shipping as you have left that part out. Regardless, you never gave me the courtesy of a follow-up after I contacted you twice about it; "I forgot" was not the real reason. My project was held up waiting for an answer and part that never came. Yeah, that made me upset. Then after a few weeks of seeing you post on Facebook about "Blue" ,other stuff, and still no response, i took it as a dis on me. Did I go on the INDMC page and raise hell? No. Did I do a personal Facebook page rant about you and the INDMC club? No. Did I come on here, hijack your tech thread and dis you and the INDMC club? No. I merely unfriended you and kept my mouth shut. It took you about 10 months to notice.

You then chose a different path and have done plenty of damage to the club and me. Trashing our members and calling them "Ohio turds" was not appreciated. I've had to explain the president and "face" of INDMC's actions and behavior to DCO members, mutual friends, and others outside Ohio and in the DeLorean community who have seen all of your posts.

I have made multiple attempts to "work things out like an adult" and reach you privately to resolve your problem with me unfriending you while you continued vending a nothing-burger publicly and repeatedly called for my resignation. All because I unfriended you on Facebook nearly a year ago.

My offer still stands if you truly want to work things out as you stated Mr. Brown .
Otherwise, I wish you the best of luck as President , representative, and the face of the Indiana Delorean Club .

-Josh

[Ron]

Are we allowed to have multiple accounts? Or was this a "sonny v" accident?No and doing so is a bannable offense here, and on most sites...
PM sent.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

No and doing so is a bannable offense here, and on most sites...
PM sent.

I was able to find and update my password and also update my email address. Thanks Ron! Sorry for the trouble.