Driver window stopped working this morning after door handle install

[Timebender]

This may be a simple fix - hopefully it's just the fuse that blew. Yesterday afternoon I swapped out my exterior door handle, and after doing so while the upper panel was still off, I checked the window and it went up and down with no issues.
However, what I did notice is when I first attempted to pull the panel off, it seemed like something was sticking, even with the trees out of their holes along the top, and it finally popped off, but there was the sound of something metal coming loose as well. That's when I checked my window to see if it worked, and it rolled down but there was a hiccup, like it hit something going down, but then went down okay and then back up okay.

So I put in the new handle, tested the door opening and closing, and put the panel back on (maybe it's blocking the window, but I doubt it). One thing I noticed about my driver door, which is why the original handle broke, is when releasing it, it would stick a little so I had to use the handle to lift it loose. Also, I noticed after opening it, there would be a "clink" sound in the door, and you could hear the back latch release. I figured it was sticking, so I gave it a good spray of WD40, and then closed, opened, closed, opened the door a number of times and it seemed to release a lot easier, but I'd still hear that "clink" sound somewhere in the door. So I put the panel back on and all seemed well for the most part.

And this morning I opened the door and it was fine, went to roll up the window being a rainy day, and it moved then just stopped.
I'm hoping it's just a fuse, and could possibly be something in the way that caused the fuse to blow.

When I originally pulled the panel off, aside from the sound of something metal dropping into the door, it looked fine and I couldn't see anything that would have come loose. Maybe a tie down for the door wire harness?

[jmettee]

Step 1, check the fuse & report back.

Bonus: while you're at it, make sure the wires are connected to the window motor.

[Timebender]

Step 1, check the fuse & report back.

Bonus: while you're at it, make sure the wires are connected to the window motor.

I have to take off the eustachian and middle control area to get the lower panel off, correct?

I kinda have a gut feeling something fell down inside the door anyway - so time to do a deep dive and see what's in the way.

[DMCMW Dave]

I have to take off the eustachian and middle control area to get the lower panel off, correct?

.

Eustachian
38983


Escutcheon
38984

[Bitsyncmaster]

Eustachian
38983


Escutcheon
38984

Door switch trim.

[Timebender]

Door switch trim.

Sorry - eustachian, escutcheon...

That part...

So I'm guessing I have to take that off in order to take off the lower panel...

[DMCMW Dave]

Sorry - eustachian, escutcheon...

That part...

So I'm guessing I have to take that off in order to take off the lower panel...

Yes, to get to the two screws that hold on the pull handle.


edit
And don't get me started on concours/concourse and brake/break.

[Timebender]

Looks like a new project... and all I needed to do was replace the exterior door handle. Hopefully it's just the fuse, and if so, something caused the window to stick that then caused the fuse to blow.

[Timebender]

Got the lower panel off and the window motor is hooked up. Also checked the fuse and it's good. It might be the switch - when I rock it back and forth there is a brief click from the motor each time. I tried the left window switch and moved over and the same thing. The motor had been working fine before I changed out the door handle and I don't think it could have just suddenly gone out.

Or it could be stuck?

[Timebender]

I'm trying also to see where the wires coming off the window motor connect - there's a set of purple wires mid-way at the bottom of the door, and off those it looks like they connect to the door lights - but I don't see quite where the motor wires are connecting in the harness, since they're tied together with what connects at the purple wires coming from the rear end of the door.

Here's a shot of the wires coming off the motor, but I don't see where they plug into past that, unless they're running straight up that bigger bundle. Also I did notice there's basically no white lithium grease on the window tracks.

38990
Greg

[jerrysony]

Talking about Windows that won't work. My passenger window works perfectly with the door open , but if I close the door then it's dead. Any suggestions?

Enviado desde mi SM-G925I mediante Tapatalk

[Timebender]

Could be a loose connection to the motor, or the connector in the roof panel - which I don't know exactly where that is. The one though in the door you can take a peak at if you remove the amber lens at the front of the door. The window motor is literally right behind that.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Got the lower panel off and the window motor is hooked up. Also checked the fuse and it's good. It might be the switch - when I rock it back and forth there is a brief click from the motor each time. I tried the left window switch and moved over and the same thing. The motor had been working fine before I changed out the door handle and I don't think it could have just suddenly gone out.

Or it could be stuck?

Uh oh..."a brief click from the motor each time." Do you know what that means? Usually it's a cracked regulator gear which means you need a new gear or the newer updated wdw regulator. It's a brass gear with a pressed in spindle that can suddenly crack at any time due to a heavy interference fit. We have both used gears and the newer style regulators and could work you a deal on a L/H regulator if you want to take the longer term fix approach. We have an oversupply of L/H regulators at the moment. If you'd rather just change the gear I can go over that procedure with you too.
Rob

[Timebender]

So I have one of the two 10mm nuts of of the regulator that holds the window. However I don't know how I can get the lower one off, as it's slightly below the big opening, and I can't get a socket wrench at a straight angle to remove it. I'm thinking, hopefully, that the window is just stuck in it's track and I can unjam it and add some lithium grease while there. And if it's the motor then I'm part way to having it out anyway.

Can the motor be turned manually or?

[Timebender]

Uh oh..."a brief click from the motor each time." Do you know what that means? Usually it's a cracked regulator gear which means you need a new gear or the newer updated wdw regulator. It's a brass gear with a pressed in spindle that can suddenly crack at any time due to a heavy interference fit. We have both used gears and the newer style regulators and could work you a deal on a L/H regulator if you want to take the longer term fix approach. We have an oversupply of L/H regulators at the moment. If you'd rather just change the gear I can go over that procedure with you too.
Rob

What would cause an interference fit? My tracks are pretty much greaseless, I discovered, so most likely just the motor having to force the window open and shut might be it?

I'll PM you but the motor vs. the gear thing.

Thanks Rob. :)

[Timebender]

Uh oh..."a brief click from the motor each time." Do you know what that means? Usually it's a cracked regulator gear which means you need a new gear or the newer updated wdw regulator. It's a brass gear with a pressed in spindle that can suddenly crack at any time due to a heavy interference fit. We have both used gears and the newer style regulators and could work you a deal on a L/H regulator if you want to take the longer term fix approach. We have an oversupply of L/H regulators at the moment. If you'd rather just change the gear I can go over that procedure with you too.
Rob

PM sent

[PJ Grady Inc.]

PM sent

The interference fit is because the brass gear is secured by a steel spindle to a smaller steel gear which drives the regulator worm cable and hence the power window. The interference fit is to retain the spindle to the larger gear but the factory made the press fit stronger than the gear can consistently tolerate. I'll answer your PM ASAP.
Rob

[PJ Grady Inc.]

So I have one of the two 10mm nuts of of the regulator that holds the window. However I don't know how I can get the lower one off, as it's slightly below the big opening, and I can't get a socket wrench at a straight angle to remove it. I'm thinking, hopefully, that the window is just stuck in it's track and I can unjam it and add some lithium grease while there. And if it's the motor then I'm part way to having it out anyway.

Can the motor be turned manually or?

This will happen with a cracked gear. The answer is to release the mtg bolts from the motor and bracket to the door and slide the whole assembly up to get at the other nut.
Rob

[Timebender]

This will happen with a cracked gear. The answer is to release the mtg bolts from the motor and bracket to the door and slide the whole assembly up to get at the other nut.
Rob

Got it. Thanks Rob. I might just push the window all the way up and leave it there until I decide whether to replace the gear or whole assembly, being this is currently a daily driver until we my son's car back.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Got it. Thanks Rob. I might just push the window all the way up and leave it there until I decide whether to replace the gear or whole assembly, being this is currently a daily driver until we my son's car back.

In that case don't remove the bolts. Have someone tap on the switch while you use both hands, one on each side, to try and force the glass closed and then leave it be and disconnect the switch until you fix it.
Rob

[Timebender]

In that case don't remove the bolts. Have someone tap on the switch while you use both hands, one on each side, to try and force the glass closed and then leave it be and disconnect the switch until you fix it.
Rob
Got it.

[SS Spoiler]

Had a similar problem, window would only go down a short distance
then jam. Ended up taking the motor out to find the brass gear had
a hairline crack causing the gear teeth to be spaced too wide jamming
the motor. Forced the gear off the shaft, drilled the hole slightly larger,
super glued the gear to the shaft using a hose clamp to squeeze it tight.
Did this twenty five years ago.....still going strong.

[Timebender]

That's an interesting solution. I'm kinda beginning to think it might also be the switch and connector. The passenger one works perfectly, and if I move the driver switch to that side, I get the same single click from the motor on the passenger side. And putting the passenger one on the driver side, which I know the switch works, I get that same single click. Btw we tried the forcing the window up trick that Rob mentioned, but it won't even budge. So that tells me that the window isn't getting enough power.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

That's an interesting solution. I'm kinda beginning to think it might also be the switch and connector. The passenger one works perfectly, and if I move the driver switch to that side, I get the same single click from the motor on the passenger side. And putting the passenger one on the driver side, which I know the switch works, I get that same single click. Btw we tried the forcing the window up trick that Rob mentioned, but it won't even budge. So that tells me that the window isn't getting enough power.

In that case your contacts are probably burnt. You can replace or rebuild the switch but it's a little tricky to reassemble. Don't forget a "Mattaligner" to tidy things up and keep the switchs from sticking on and frying the contacts again.
Rob

[Timebender]

In that case your contacts are probably burnt. You can replace or rebuild the switch but it's a little tricky to reassemble. Don't forget a "Mattaligner" to tidy things up and keep the switchs from sticking on and frying the contacts again.
Rob
I ordered some new switches the other day - hopefully I'll get them before this Thursday and the rain we're expecting. Also I'm going to clean the contacts in the sockets with some electronic cleaner fluid, and yes, good idea on the mattaligner!

[PJ Grady Inc.]

I ordered some new switches the other day - hopefully I'll get them before this Thursday and the rain we're expecting. Also I'm going to clean the contacts in the sockets with some electronic cleaner fluid, and yes, good idea on the mattaligner!
Particularly handy at keeping the DMCH switchs in position if that's what you have coming.
Rob