Time for brakes

[DMC3165]

While replacing my front shocks today it was pretty obvious my brakes are getting low. They are not totally wiped out yet but they are almost to the warning indicator on the pads. So i figure I got a few weeks left. The calipers look fairly simple to remove and reinstall the pads. The rotors don't look simple at all. Since I can't find anything in my workshop manual about removing the rotors i thought i'd ask the DMCtalk forum to help me out with this. Since i've never done brakes on any of my D's before if anyone could shoot me a step by step and tell me wether or not i need special tools for this, that would be greatly appreciated.

Also I've done brakes plenty of times in the past. I like to consider my self an "average" shade tree mechanic. But I'm only a few miles from PJ Grady. If this going to be a fiasco i'll just bring it to him. Mainly because it's my only car at the moment and i'd like to minamize the downtime.

[content22207]

The calipers do not need to come off to replace the pads. They are just like Japanese pads -- pull the pins out and lift the pads out of the calipers.

If you want to remove the rotors to turn them, the calipers of course need to come off. They are held on by two bolts (3/4" hex IIRC).

The rotor is held to the spindle with a 36mm hex lock nut. It's pretty similar to a domestic setup, minus the cotter pin (and the nut is more than finger tight). I couldn't find a slide hammer adapter small enough to fit our lug nuts, so I used a 2 jaw puller against the spindle to break mine free. You also could remount the wheel and use it as a slide hammer.

The rotor and the bearing hub are two separate assemblies, bolted together from the rear. Just unbolt the hub and the rotor will fall off.

If you decide to replace the wheel bearing (there's only one wide one per side), have fun removing the snap ring that holds it in the hub....

Bill Robertson
#5939

[DMC3165]

Thanks Bill,

I'm not sure I want to mess with the front hubs. My driver's side rotor is grooved pretty good so they gotta go. Grady and I discussed doing the brakes recently but I was just being "cheap" in this instance and seeing if i could do them myself.

Just to save the aggravation I'll probably just let him do it.

[Ryan King]

Thanks Bill,

I'm not sure I want to mess with the front hubs. My driver's side rotor is grooved pretty good so they gotta go. Grady and I discussed doing the brakes recently but I was just being "cheap" in this instance and seeing if i could do them myself.

Just to save the aggravation I'll probably just let him do it.

Honestly, if you ordered the parts you needed, got everything pressed in ahead of time with pads, you could easily do this in a day if not a weekend. It is a very simple job that I have done myself. You can easily get the hub nut off with a big breaker bar, which I did myself.

[DMC3165]

Honestly, if you ordered the parts you needed, got everything pressed in ahead of time with pads, you could easily do this in a day if not a weekend. It is a very simple job that I have done myself. You can easily get the hub nut off with a big breaker bar, which I did myself.

I think my biggest concern is properly setting the preload on the bearing when tightening the hub nut. Too tight and it'll burn up, too loose it could come off. Since it's only a single nut with no cotter pin or retaining clip that scares me a little bit. Just to be safe I might defer it to Grady. He's probably done so many he could do it blindfolded. I might feel like i'm blindfolded with both eyes open doing it. But I'm not sure yet. Maybe I'll get a good dose of confidence from somewhere.

:biggrin:

[content22207]

The spindle nut only presses against the drum, not the race (the drum is sandwiched between a washer and an insert on the back side) -- you can't overtighten it. This is a very different setup from the domestic bearings you are probably used to.

Notice the torque spec on Page J:13:01 of the Workshop Manual -- more than twice a typical lug nut. Just put a cheater pipe on your breaker bar and lean on it. Chances are the lower control arm will fold up under the car before you even reach the spec.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[DeLorean]

Notice the torque spec on Page J:13:01 of the Workshop Manual -- more than twice a typical lug nut. Just put a cheater pipe on your breaker bar and lean on it. Chances are the lower control arm will fold up under the car before you even reach the spec.

Bill Robertson
#5939


:lol: It seemed like it might, but no. the standard LCA's hold up to it just fine, they just move a bit (like they do when you drive it)

[DMC3165]

The spindle nut only presses against the drum, not the race (the drum is sandwiched between a washer and an insert on the back side) -- you can't overtighten it. This is a very different setup from the domestic bearings you are probably used to.

Notice the torque spec on Page J:13:01 of the Workshop Manual -- more than twice a typical lug nut. Just put a cheater pipe on your breaker bar and lean on it. Chances are the lower control arm will fold up under the car before you even reach the spec.

Bill Robertson
#5939

When re-installing the hub nuts, Would you use locktite or anything on it?

I have had hub nuts back off over time on Class 8 trucks before due to improper tightening. But in looking at this set up I can see how its different. The trucks have tapered bearings and races whereas the D's are flat.

I'm guessing it's probably a good idea to change the bearings too while taking it apart?

[content22207]

It's kind of a similar setup, but not 100% identical. Rather than two thinner bearings at either end of the rotor, there is just one big one in the middle. The "rotor" is of course a two part assembly, not one big integrated casting. The spindle itself is tapered -- that's how you position the rotor assembly. The hub nut does not have a cotter pin to prevent it from backing off, but it also is tightened down fantastically tightly (it's a deformed thread lock nut). There is no grease seal (on either end of the rotor), and the hub nut backing washer is much smaller diameter, because the bearings are sealed. Once you tear it apart it will all become intuitive. Removing the snap ring that holds the bearing inside the hub is an other worldly experience (if you have some REALLY BIG snap ring pliers you should be OK).

Bill Robertson
#5939

[stevedmc]

For what its worth, you can get refurbished hubs (with new studs and bearings already pressed in) for about $50 each from Hervey. You do have to ship your old ones back to him. I did this a while back because I was too lazy to find someone with a press to replace my bearings.

Edit: I forgot to mention that brake work is easy. Ask Farrar. We removed his front calipers, hubs, and rotors. We took the rotors down to Oreilly's to get them turned and had everything back on the car the same evening. We spent about 4 or 5 hours from start to finish and this included our time going to Sears to buy a 32mm socket to remove the hubs, and of course waiting for the guys at Oreilly's to turn the things.

[DMC3165]

Thanks for the info. I'm trying to cover all my bases before I do this and want to make sure I have everything I need before I get started. If I wasn't relying on the car so heavily right now I could take my time with it. But I'm running it daily whereas its my only car at the moment.

[content22207]

At least one owner has had a bearing come apart when he pulled the rotor assembly off (inner race stayed stuck to the spindle), in which case replacement is not optional.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[DMCMW Dave]

When re-installing the hub nuts, Would you use locktite or anything on it?

...

I'm guessing it's probably a good idea to change the bearings too while taking it apart?

No.

I'd at least have a pair at the ready - they are cheap, and if they come apart as you take the hub off (happens large percentage of the time) you'll be stranded without them.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Yes the bearing came apart when I pulled my rotor. My inner race was not even stuck but the only thing that holds the bearing together is the rubber seal on the bearing.

[content22207]

For the uninitiated, these are not Timken style bearings -- the outer race is not supposed to come off.

Bill Robertson
#5939