Waking a Sleeping Delorean: Engine

[nullset]

I am trying to get 2930's engine running, and thought a post outside of that thread might get some more attention.

Firstly, the history:

2930 was sitting for several years in a gas station in Indiana, apparently. I bought it, did a frame off, and put it back together. Now I'm trying to get the engine to run….

Current status: It'll crank but won't turn over. Yesterday, I pulled the injectors and made sure they are all spraying.

I drained the oil again, because I had spilled some when pulling the engine last time (after having filled it), and it smells very strongly of fuel. I wonder if this is because I've been jumping the fuel pump and trying to get it to start, etc.

I want to assume nothing. Let's suppose that every adjustment screw has been completely knocked out of whack. Where would you start?

First, I'm going to refill the oil.

Next, I'd like to check the timing. I'd pulled the distributor and failed to mark it. I put it back in at what I thought was Cylinder #1 TDC, but now I realize that there are 2 marks on the crankshaft, so it might've been cylinder #6 instead.

So, questions:
- How do I set the mixture screw? I do not think it is anywhere close to being correct. I'd like to start there to make sure I'm not flooding the engine with fuel again.
- How do I ensure that the timing/distributor setting is correct enough for it to work?
- What electrical tests should I do on the coil/etc to make sure I have the correct voltages and have spark?

Thanks for any and all advice!

-buddy
PS: Off to NAPA to buy more oil…..

[nullset]

Other things of note:
- RPM relay is good ( swapped with my other car, and it still runs….)
- Fuel pump does NOT prime when I turn the key to on or acc. Jumpering the RPM relay does cause it to pump, though.
- Idle motor is making it's usual buzzing sound.

Beyond that, I have no idea what's going on. I am sure that, when I jumper the RPM relay and push down on the pressure plate, the injectors do spray.

Turning the key to 'start' does cause the engine to turn and turn and turn, but not fire.

The main ignition wire has a bit of insulation missing. I'm going to try to get a new set of plug wires in the next day or two to see if that's an issue.

--buddy

[sdg3205]

Have you tried to start it with the RPM jumpered?

I know you've jumped it before, but to try and start it?

[TTait]

- How do I ensure that the timing/distributor setting is correct enough for it to work?


I'm not sure if there is a shortcut, but I think the way to do it is to pull the drivers side valve cover and cyl 5 on the rock - see the manual -

C:05:07 Adjusting Valves

So your sure which mark you are looking at, and also

M:01:02 Refitting

for properly stabbing the distributor.

Remember that when stabbing the distributor, the rotor turns a few degrees upon insertion as the gears mesh through each other. First try, set the rotor exactly where you want it, and insert it, rotate the distributor body slightly if needed so that when the locking bolt is inserted its at the middle of the adjustment slot, so you could adjust either way. Look at the rotor now, it will be wrong - something like 10 degrees too far clockwise I think. Pull it back out (at which time the gear mesh will reverse and the rotor will go back to where you first started). Turn the rotor in the opposite direction of the error you just observed, by the same amount. Re-stab the distributor and it should be very close. Now rotate the distributor a degree or two as needed so that the rotor position appears perfect. Put the bolt down and snug it up. That should be close enough to get you running. Once the engine runs you can finish up with the timing light to get it perfect.

Tom

[nullset]

Have you tried to start it with the RPM jumpered?

I know you've jumped it before, but to try and start it?

Yes, I have. It still doesn't fire.

[nullset]

When I jumper the RPM relay, fuel flows from the injectors even if the pressure plate isn't pushed down. This means the mixture is too rich, right?

How do I correct that? Which way and how much should I turn the adjustment screw?

--buddy

[nullset]

When I jumper the RPM relay, fuel flows from the injectors even if the pressure plate isn't pushed down. This means the mixture is too rich, right?

How do I correct that? Which way and how much should I turn the adjustment screw?

--buddy

Okay, I turned the mixture adjustment screw counterclockwise until it no longer sprays fuel unless the pressure plate is pushed down.

One problem down…..

--buddy

[sean]

What you want to do is turn the screw counter clock wise until it stops then with the pressure plate slightly pushed down start coming back clockwise until you get fuel then stop, let up in the plate to make sure n fuel is coming out and you should be good to start there.

[nullset]

What you want to do is turn the screw counter clock wise until it stops then with the pressure plate slightly pushed down start coming back clockwise until you get fuel then stop, let up in the plate to make sure n fuel is coming out and you should be good to start there.

Done. On to step two….

I checked the voltage at the ballast resistor. Both sides of it are reading ~.68 volts with the switch on 'run'. This could be related to the RPM relay not seeming to do it's job.

Moving back to the 2930 thread, since this isn't relevant to the previous issue…..

[zclain]

Do you have any updates to as if you got it started? I have a similar issue where my delorean has fuel to the injectors, has a spark, but won't start. Doesn't even want to catch it just sits there and cranks. Previously I was able to start the car via starter fluid about a week ago, but had clogged injectors and now since i replaced the injectors, I can't get it to catch what so ever even on starter fluid!

[nullset]

Do you have any updates to as if you got it started? I have a similar issue where my delorean has fuel to the injectors, has a spark, but won't start. Doesn't even want to catch it just sits there and cranks. Previously I was able to start the car via starter fluid about a week ago, but had clogged injectors and now since i replaced the injectors, I can't get it to catch what so ever even on starter fluid!

I believe this problem was because the distributor was 360 degrees out of sync. I'd set the timing using the marks, but hadn't pulled the valve covers to make sure it was 'on the rocker'.

There was also an electrical issue preventing the coil from getting juice.

Check for voltage at the ballast resistors, check for spark, check for fuel, and check your timing.

--buddy

[Farrar]

I'm confused. 360 degrees is a full circle. Did you mean 180 degrees?

Farrar

[DeLorean]

you mean to say "180 degrees off" Keep in mind, 1 cam shaft rotations for every 2 crank shaft rotations. So, you could easily have everything at 0 (Engine at top dead center, cam shaft pointing at the notch) - yet, still be all wrong if you have it 180 degrees off.

[nullset]

Right. There are two full rotations of the crankshaft / pulley for one rotation of the distributor.

If the timing looks right with a timing light, but there's no fire, and you have removed the distributor and turned the engine over, you need to make sure it's correct.

The crankshaft had to be turned over one full rotation (360 degrees) and then the distributor reinstalled to correct it. There are other posts here on setting the timing.

--buddy