VIN: 2964 Fuse Box, ID some stuff

[1batt4u]

Hi all,


Good to see the forum back up!!!

I just finished installing, FINALLY the lock/unlock solenoids!! Bought both door upgrade, door poppers with alarm unit, and trunk opener from Wings-A-Loft!! At the moment installed just the solenoids for the door poppers!! Opened the fuse box to connect the Door upggrade new fuse and harness! Here is the picture of how I found everything!
http://i54.tinypic.com/mbizp2.jpg

I found the harness for the door locks unplugged as you can see. I circled 3 in green. 2 are unplugged, I have no idea from what, and another seems like a metal relay, what is that for, and would that needed changing? MEaning need an new imprived relay or anything else you guys see that need to be fixed/upgraded??

Thank you all!!

[Chris 16409]

The big metal relay is one of the main relays that is powered when you turn the key on. There are two of them, one turns on with the first key position, and the second turns on at the second key position. Currently, there are not really any "upgrades" for this relay. The are supposed to be pretty reliable.

The white plastic relay socket is for an optional "hot start relay" that never made it into production. People have since made their own hot start relays over the years. I have one of Bitsyncmaster's solid state hot start relays. Don't worry if you don't have one.

The next thing I have to ask is whether your car currently runs. The third plug appears to be the socket for the RPM relay. I don't see a relay there, so your fuel pump isn't going to run. Did you pull the relay, or did your car not come with one? Unless perhaps the RPM relay was bypassed or something.

I've noticed you've still got the original door lock module installed. I think this would be a good time to get rid of it and get one of the new units from DMCH.

[Mike C.]

Chris pretty much has it right on the head.

The Top white socket is not used, so it is ok if that is empty.

The middle one (the one slightly to the right) is DEFINITELY for your RPM relay. Where it be, i do not know. It should be plugged in there.

The lower relay, judging by the wiring schematic is your auxillary relay, and it should be mounted and not just dangling there.


A great tool for helping you decode weird little plugs and whatnot is the color wiring diagram, which can be found in our resources section :) It has saved me a number of times!

Good luck with your install!

-Mike

Edit: More help - With the large aux relay (lower left circled relay)... If you look down and to the right approximately 2 inches, you will see another relay just like it. The loose one mounts to the screw hold just above that mounted relay. :)

[1batt4u]

Thank you for the reply guys!!

MY car does run!! The fuel pump actually works when the car is not running, even when the key is turned to ON position it still pumps.
I guess the previous owner or before him did some stuff.

I just started to work on my car now. I'm pretty much almost done with the doors. I did everything on them. I bought from Wings-A-Loft the door lock upgrades, door popper/alarm system, and trunk opener!
I instelled the door lock upgrade harness yesterday after I took the picture. I should have taken a picture of it. Chris, you mentioned about getting rid of the old door lock module? Don't I need it cause some wires to the old harness are connected??

Thank you! 8)

[Chris 16409]

MY car does run!! The fuel pump actually works when the car is not running, even when the key is turned to ON position it still pumps. I guess the previous owner or before him did some stuff.

As I suspected, a previous owner must have bypassed the RPM relay. They probably couldn't find a replacement part, so they had to bypass it. I don't think it's good in the long term to run the car without the RPM relay. You might consider returning the wiring to the stock set up. I'm sure Dave (Bitsyncmaster) can chime in and help you reverse this modification. Some wire must have been jumpered to allow the fuel pump to always run. Usually you can install a jumper wire on the connector itself to force the pump to run. But obviously this was done a different way on your car.


You mentioned about getting rid of the old door lock module? Don't I need it cause some wires to the old harness are connected?

I can't tell from your picture, but other wires from the harness should't be connected to the pigtail coming off the module itself. It's best to splice any wires from your alarm or remote unlock system to the main harness side of the lock module wiring. If it's wired like this, then you can easily replace the door lock module in the future.

I suppose since you've got Toby's door lock actuators, you may be able to get away with using the original door lock module. The old style solenoids is one of the reasons the original lock modules would wig out.

[Bitsyncmaster]

You better check how they wired that fuel pump. If they wired it to an existing relay or just the key signal. The pump runs about 8 amps so it would not be good running it from the key switch. Also the circuit may be overloaded depending on how it was wired. Since you still have the RPM connector I would guess to revert back to normal would just be removing a jumper. Do you have the inertia switch in the drivers side foot well?

[1batt4u]

I just did some checking up! I just found a fresh Red Wire from the fuel pump going straight to the ignition switch!
http://i54.tinypic.com/2j66907.jpg

I also took this picture awhile ago, becuae I was trying to ID some wires form the drivers foot well. I had posted it on dmctalk, I forgot what they told me this wires was. Is this the inertia switch wire or something??
http://i47.tinypic.com/2rrulqb.jpg

[Mike C.]

purple/black stripe
brown/pink stripe x2
black

would be the inertia switch. Looks a little melty to me...

[DMCMW Dave]

Looks to me like someone got frustrated with all the safety stuff. Wired the pump to the switch and I'll bet you find the pump grounded to the frame (normally ground is via the inertia switch). It works but it's really rough on the ignition switch (high current pump) and of course bypasses the inertia switch and the RPM relay safety functions.

[sdg3205]

Billy,

When I got my car it was the same situation, except the PO spliced in the wires right at the relay and ran them up the backbone directly to the pump.

Cleaning the grounds, installing a new white-dot inertia switch, a new RPM relay and re-splicing the original wiring solved the issues.

[1batt4u]

Billy,

When I got my car it was the same situation, except the PO spliced in the wires right at the relay and ran them up the backbone directly to the pump.

Cleaning the grounds, installing a new white-dot inertia switch, a new RPM relay and re-splicing the original wiring solved the issues.

Looks like I'm gonna have some more/extra work to do!!! SoI gotta find the correct wires and wire everything together!

[1batt4u]

Here are some more pictures I took today!

The Red Wire from the igntin switch coming out where the trunk release is!
http://i52.tinypic.com/j82srp.jpg


I couldn't see exactly where the ground wire was going, but it was going under the fiberglass infront of the car,I guess to ground!
http://i54.tinypic.com/zvpo5g.jpg

[Bitsyncmaster]

I think I see the original wires right near your fuel level sender. Pull on those wires and see if the two pin connector is still on them.

[82DMC12]

Here are some more pictures I took today!

The Red Wire from the igntin switch coming out where the trunk release is!
http://i52.tinypic.com/j82srp.jpg


I couldn't see exactly where the ground wire was going, but it was going under the fiberglass infront of the car,I guess to ground!
http://i54.tinypic.com/zvpo5g.jpg

Looks like someone got frustrated with the fuel pump boot also!

Andy

[1batt4u]

purple/black stripe
brown/pink stripe x2
black

would be the inertia switch. Looks a little melty to me...

The inertia switch is still there, but where would the harness plug into?? I was looking all over for a connection on the box.

Any ideas??

[sean]

The inertia switch is still there, but where would the harness plug into?? I was looking all over for a connection on the box.

Any ideas??

It connects to the bottom of the box, opposite of the plunger. Here is a reference pic:
1319

[1batt4u]

Thank you so much!!!

[1batt4u]

It connects to the bottom of the box, opposite of the plunger. Here is a reference pic:
1319

1 more quick question, I tried looking, but no results. Is there a replacement wire for the inertia switch?? Mine is kinda melty, not form me, from previous owners.

Thank you!!

[sean]

1 more quick question, I tried looking, but no results. Is there a replacement wire for the inertia switch?? Mine is kinda melty, not form me, from previous owners.

Thank you!!

John Hervey sells a replacement connector seen here (towards the bottom middle of page):
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/electrical-2.html

[1batt4u]

Cool! Thanx!!!

Since the wire is kinda melty, I was curious as how it got like that. What exactly is the inertia switch, what does it do? I noticed it has a tab on top that you can pull up and it is red.
My car is currently not running, I am in the process of re-doing the car.

Thank you!!

[outatym2001]

Billy C.

Don’t forget how important that Inertia Switch is before driving your D. For those of you who don’t know the Inertia Switch does two things in the event of a collision. It sends a signal to the door lock controller to unlock the doors and it cuts power to the electric fuel pump.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inertia_switch

Some idiot previous owner of my D cut the wires to the Inertia Switch threw away the Inertia Switch and the little white plug and connected the black/purple wire to the brown wire to get power to the pump.

Like Dave Graham says, get an Inertia Swtich with a painted white dot on it since that’s a sign it’s the proper one and is not likely to fail like yours apparantly did to the previous owner.