Bunch of misc. questions; very large pictures ahead.

[kl31]

I have a bunch of related/unrelated questions, and posting multiple threads seems like a really obnoxious thing to do.

1. Is it normal for the steering wheel to lose resistance right before you've turned the steering wheel all the way? It feels like it "dips" into position.

2. Possible causes for engine tick? It's really noticeable while idle, and decreases as RPM/oil pressure increases. ticking completely disappears if the engine is hot enough. Mechanic says it's caused by carbon deposits. Using 93 octane fuel slightly deadens the sound.

3. Possibly related to question 2. what's the optimal PSI for cylinder compression? Mine is at:
Cyl. 1 = 45 PSI, Cyl. 2 = 75 PSI, Cyl. 3 = 30 PSI, Cyl. 4 = 50 PSI, Cyl. 5 = 40PSI, Cyl. 6 = 60 PSI.
I'm guessing that the ticking is coming from Cyl. 3 since the compression seems atrocious. Carbon on the valves? and any way to clean the valves and cylinder? I have some techron. Is that recommended? also read about seafoam.

4. console controls can't seat properly. Not enough room for the switch and harness? The faux switch also can't seat properly. One of the window switches already failed. Thoughts on aftermarket (not the ones from DMCH) window switches? I've never really cared about keeping everything as close to stock as possible, and the center console switches look awful. But for the sake of laziness, i'm probably going to get the DMCH switches with DPNW window modules.

5. Speedometer works intermittently. Grinding noise can be heard when it's working. Odometer and trip meter works regardless of speedometer functionality. Does the angle drive need to be replaced? The grinding noise is causing some concern. It sounds without brake pressure, so I'm guessing rotors are good. But the steering wheel does pull pretty heavily to the right with heavy braking, but that might be caused by under inflated rear tire on the left side.

6. I need to pump the gas pedal to start the engine. Holding it down sometimes works but it isn't very reliable. I'm guessing that it has to do with insufficient amps from the battery to drive both the starter and fuel pump/injector. The voltage stays underneath 13v with all accessories off. Time to replace the alternator?

7. Missing front recall kit. why is it so important? I will be getting it soon, though i'm not seeing the big issue.

8. Should I remove motorized antenna? the motor works, but the antenna is uncoupled from the motor. It seems redundant since I have a headunit with aux cord. but idk... does anyone still listen to the radio? also seems like a fire hazard.

9. Temperature gauge is stuck at 6 o-clock. This problem (along with speedometer) is recent. cooling fans still turn on.

10. Has anyone wired the blower to a PWM? I've seen it done with LED's. I have a 30amp PWM controller and I'm thinking about controlling the blower motor to a PWM. Seems far more reliable than the resistor and relay set up. Also more than 4 speeds.

11. Brake squeal. According to my mechanic, it's caused by the metallic brake pads. Even when new they made a deafening squeal. Should I replace with ceramic from DMCH?

12. Has anyone used DMCH's key cutting service? how well were they cut? my key snapped in the ignition, and I was about to retrieve it. I sent them a picture, and they sent me two cut keys. but it was cut far too close to the base, which prevented the key from being seated properly. I had to cut off the front by a few mm's, and trim off some of the molded plastic. It works so i'm not butt hurt about it. Just a tiny bit disappointed for having ugly keys lol.

13. Resale value of cars with stock audio configuration vs 'improved' configurations? I have 2 speakers mounted in the rear firewall, as well as an amp. I made two foot well speakers and bolted it in the recess close to the door. Also two tweeters mounted in the door vent ducts (imagine the DMC vent covers, but as a tweeter).

14. How's the condition of the frame?And how worried should I be about the oil leak? It's really slow, and I figured a layer of oil coating the frame might help prevent further rusting. Sorry if the angles are terrible. If there are specific spots that would be helpful in determining frame condition, let me know and i'll snap some more photos.

http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab47/kevinlai31/20160125_190924_zpsyjlyjwyy.jpg (http://s848.photobucket.com/user/kevinlai31/media/20160125_190924_zpsyjlyjwyy.jpg.html)
http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab47/kevinlai31/20160125_190818_zpsv4mpfipy.jpg (http://s848.photobucket.com/user/kevinlai31/media/20160125_190818_zpsv4mpfipy.jpg.html)
http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab47/kevinlai31/20160125_190522_zpstiksrgzv.jpg (http://s848.photobucket.com/user/kevinlai31/media/20160125_190522_zpstiksrgzv.jpg.html)
http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab47/kevinlai31/20160125_190530_zpsp2vvqxod.jpg (http://s848.photobucket.com/user/kevinlai31/media/20160125_190530_zpsp2vvqxod.jpg.html)
http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab47/kevinlai31/20160205_151858_zpslcpqztcq.jpg (http://s848.photobucket.com/user/kevinlai31/media/20160205_151858_zpslcpqztcq.jpg.html)
http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab47/kevinlai31/20160125_190148_zpscejvjuno.jpg (http://s848.photobucket.com/user/kevinlai31/media/20160125_190148_zpscejvjuno.jpg.html)
http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab47/kevinlai31/20160125_191153_zpsbulcfz11.jpg (http://s848.photobucket.com/user/kevinlai31/media/20160125_191153_zpsbulcfz11.jpg.html)
http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab47/kevinlai31/20160125_191200_zpsvmxytrxr.jpg (http://s848.photobucket.com/user/kevinlai31/media/20160125_191200_zpsvmxytrxr.jpg.html)
http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab47/kevinlai31/20160125_191144_zpsknbhuycs.jpg (http://s848.photobucket.com/user/kevinlai31/media/20160125_191144_zpsknbhuycs.jpg.html)
http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab47/kevinlai31/20160125_191113_zpstflmffpe.jpg (http://s848.photobucket.com/user/kevinlai31/media/20160125_191113_zpstflmffpe.jpg.html)
http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab47/kevinlai31/20160125_191038_zpsoimhafzw.jpg (http://s848.photobucket.com/user/kevinlai31/media/20160125_191038_zpsoimhafzw.jpg.html)
http://i848.photobucket.com/albums/ab47/kevinlai31/20160125_191136_zpsr9n8bbtz.jpg (http://s848.photobucket.com/user/kevinlai31/media/20160125_191136_zpsr9n8bbtz.jpg.html)

According to my mechanic, the car is good enough as a weekend driver. However, it would be cheaper to sell this one and buy another one in better condition than to restore this one. Plus the auto is kinda boring. Anyone have suggestions for a price range? thought it might be a bit premature since there's still a lot of minor fixes that can be done to improve the overall resale value (or not i guess. not too sure).

15. has anyone considered coating the chassis with something like polyurethane to help further protect against rust? or even spraying several clear coats over the stainless steel just to prevent scratches and maybe help absorb the impact of rocks? Any thoughts on efficacy?

[dn010]

1) How old are your steering components/ball joints/tie rods?

2) When was the last valve adjustment? It is possible that may cure some ticking.

3) Numbers are really low, how many miles do you have? A good condition engine should see over 120. How about oil consumption? With a tick you might have a stuck valve or valves, or broken rings. If you have that much carbon then the best way to clean it is not by a miracle in a bottle but by removing the head and cleaning/replacing what is there.

4) Common problem where the console is pushed down with your elbow or etc, causes the switch and electrical plug to hit the fiberglass body and pop up. Rob Grady has a cure for that.

5) More than likely angle drive is bad. EDIT - I missed where you wrote the odometer still works - you'd need to investigate why the needle does not move and the numbers still do by removing the speedometer and going from there.

6) If you have a stock engine you’re running mechanical fuel injection - pumping the gas pedal is only opening and closing the throttle plates – not injecting any fuel like it would a carbureted engine.

7) They made the recall kit for a reason, but I personally didn’t have it for 13 years and mine was fine. I now have the recall kit installed.

8 ) I haven’t had the antenna installed in my car since 2002. It is really up to you if you want to fix/replace it. I never listened to the radio, just used CDs or Ipod.

9) You may need to check the wiring to the sensor, it can be corroded. I believe the sensor for the gauge is on the passenger side rear of the cylinder head, hard to see it or get to it with the intake in the way.

10) No comment

11) What kind of rotors are you using? Stock or aftermarket? I have cross drilled ones that still make noise no matter what kind of pads I’m using.

12) I’ve gone to local places like Lowes/Walmart for keys to be made. No issues with the new keys. I did snap an original key in the ignition too, it required me to remove and disassemble the ignition cylinder in order to fix.

13) No comment here either.

14) I’d be worried why it looks like there is oil dripping down your fuel tank closing plate. Check your brake cylinder or lines for leaks along with the coolant lines. The frame itself does not look terrible but it could use some help up front. Try to take some pictures of the rails where the transmission is.

15) People have galvanized their frames, coated them in POR-15 or similar products etc. Coating the frame does nothing if you haven’t taken care of the rust you already have – the only thing you’ll be doing is hiding your frames true condition from the next buyer. I haven't heard anyone coating their stainless, I suspect it would do more harm than good. Besides, if a rock is going to hit your car, it is going to do damage if it is large enough, regardless of coating or not.

If you are only going to sell the car, Leave the frame the way it is and do not coat the stainless!

[dustybarn]

Another possibility is that the tick may be valvetrain noise. This will normally decrease as the engine gets warmer and clearances tighten. It will also become less apparent as RPM increases solely because other sources of engine noise are getting louder. The valvetrain in my car clatters like Granny's dentures on a cold morning, and quiets right down as the engine warms up. You may be able to localize it by (carefully) probing around the running engine with a mechanic's stethoscope. If you have one valve that is adjusted slightly looser than the others, it may remain more audible.

The steering in my car shows that same behavior. I think the Ackerman geometry may go a little wonky at the very ends of steering travel.

My car sometimes has the stuck temp gage issue too. I bent a small hook into the end of a short piece of solder so that it looks like a tiny hockey stick, and with the ignition on I fish it in through the trip odo reset button hole and gently poke the needle clockwise. That unsticks it and it works fine after that. I have to do this about 1 in 10 trips, and I carry the solder tool in the center console dish.

I use plain ol' brake pads from Rock Auto and they are quiet. IMHO the relatively low performance of the car does not warrant expensive pads, and your rotor life may be improved.

[dn010]

My car sometimes has the stuck temp gage issue too. I bent a small hook into the end of a short piece of solder so that it looks like a tiny hockey stick, and with the ignition on I fish it in through the trip odo reset button hole and gently poke the needle clockwise. That unsticks it and it works fine after that. I have to do this about 1 in 10 trips, and I carry the solder tool in the center console dish.


I forgot about the gauges sticking sometimes after a shut-off. Mine did it too! I had to slam my hand on the binnacle every time I started the car. To fix it, I took the cluster out and put pins above and below gauge range so the needle couldn't swing out of range and get stuck anymore! I has been like that for so long I've forgotten about that issue!

[Jonathan]

0. Is it normal to post really obnoxious things?

Yes. Standard protocol here.

Just kidding. Welcome. Good questions. Here's some thoughts.


1. Is it normal for the steering wheel to lose resistance right before you've turned the steering wheel all the way? It feels like it "dips" into position.

Sort of. I'm not sure I could do a better job explaining it than you have, but I think I know the feeling you're describing. Come back to this after discussing/looking at your frame/suspension condition/rust.


2. Possible causes for engine tick? It's really noticeable while idle, and decreases as RPM/oil pressure increases. ticking completely disappears if the engine is hot enough. Mechanic says it's caused by carbon deposits. Using 93 octane fuel slightly deadens the sound.

Could very well be carbon deposits. On a slightly different subject, one that doesn't have everyone agreeing, is on what octane gas to use in the car. I use 87, as noted in the manual, and not the higher octane. It reads confusing because of some difference between how octane ratings were formulated back in the day. I believe it was intended for "regular" gasoline and not "super." Some say the better stuff won't hurt, I tend to put in exactly what was designed and don't assume "better" is always "better."


3. Possibly related to question 2. what's the optimal PSI for cylinder compression? Mine is at:
Cyl. 1 = 45 PSI, Cyl. 2 = 75 PSI, Cyl. 3 = 30 PSI, Cyl. 4 = 50 PSI, Cyl. 5 = 40PSI, Cyl. 6 = 60 PSI.
I'm guessing that the ticking is coming from Cyl. 3 since the compression seems atrocious. Carbon on the valves? and any way to clean the valves and cylinder? I have some techron. Is that recommended? also read about seafoam.

Someone else can chime in about cylinder pressures. Fuel injector cleaner added to a fresh tank of gas might be a good place to start.


4. console controls can't seat properly. Not enough room for the switch and harness? The faux switch also can't seat properly. One of the window switches already failed. Thoughts on aftermarket (not the ones from DMCH) window switches? I've never really cared about keeping everything as close to stock as possible, and the center console switches look awful. But for the sake of laziness, i'm probably going to get the DMCH switches with DPNW window modules.

It could be your centre console has fallen too far down from the weight of people's elbows over the years. You can prop it up from below and give the necessary room for the switches. They do fit when everything is as intended, i.e. wiring harnesses routed where they should be, etc. The replacement window switches are slightly deeper though, so if the space has already been made tighter, it will appear worse.


5. Speedometer works intermittently. Grinding noise can be heard when it's working. Odometer and trip meter works regardless of speedometer functionality. Does the angle drive need to be replaced? The grinding noise is causing some concern. It sounds without brake pressure, so I'm guessing rotors are good. But the steering wheel does pull pretty heavily to the right with heavy braking, but that might be caused by under inflated rear tire on the left side.

It would not be considered typical for your speedo to not be working but the odo and trip to still work. Not saying it can't happen, but generally when something fails, it happens either at the wheel with the dust cap, angle drive, lower cable, service counter or upper cable. If yours is doing what you said it is, all of that is fine on your car and the problem is narrowed down to only the needle portion of the speedo gauge itself. Could be as simple as the physical needle isn't pushed on all the way?

Grinding noises mentioned with speedos are often the service (lambda) counter under the driver's footwell. If you mention the noise though with a pulling to one side, I would say at least one of your calipers is sticking. Having looked ahead at the pictures of the underside of your car, I would say it is likely that your calipers need to be rebuilt.


6. I need to pump the gas pedal to start the engine. Holding it down sometimes works but it isn't very reliable. I'm guessing that it has to do with insufficient amps from the battery to drive both the starter and fuel pump/injector. The voltage stays underneath 13v with all accessories off. Time to replace the alternator?

Pumping the gas pedal may be only coincidental. It may just be your battery needs replacing. I would at least get it taken out and tested somewhere, especially do that before you replace your alternator. Does your battery warning light come on when you turn the key to accessories prior to starting the engine? That light must come on during that sequence or your charging system will not work.


7. Missing front recall kit. why is it so important? I will be getting it soon, though i'm not seeing the big issue.

Front end extension of the frame was deemed not strong enough to withstand a bump with a curb. And for helping handling/stiffness. It's a big deal mostly after you realize you should have got it installed when you had time. It's isn't #1 on your list, but shouldn't be last either.


8. Should I remove motorized antenna? the motor works, but the antenna is uncoupled from the motor. It seems redundant since I have a headunit with aux cord. but idk... does anyone still listen to the radio? also seems like a fire hazard.

Do YOU still listen to the radio?

I don't listen to the radio in YOUR car, if that's what you're asking. You probably don't need it, but then again, I'd ensure it isn't mis-wired in some haphazard way to cause a fire. I've never heard of antennas causing fires, but there's a first for everything I guess.


9. Temperature gauge is stuck at 6 o-clock. This problem (along with speedometer) is recent. cooling fans still turn on.

Note: temperature gauge signal comes from a separate component than what turns the cooling fans on. Good that your fans are coming on though. If it is stuck at 6 o'clock, it is either the sender wiring connections are compromised or you lost a ground or connection at the back of the gauge on the instrument cluster. Hold off on going into the cluster for the time being as you might have a few things to do in there by the time your list is addressed.


10. Has anyone wired the blower to a PWM? I've seen it done with LED's. I have a 30amp PWM controller and I'm thinking about controlling the blower motor to a PWM. Seems far more reliable than the resistor and relay set up. Also more than 4 speeds.

11. Brake squeal. According to my mechanic, it's caused by the metallic brake pads. Even when new they made a deafening squeal. Should I replace with ceramic from DMCH?

Open up the brake system and inspect. Calipers sticking can cause this, so can not having the anti-squeal clips/shims in the fronts. Pad sets can be bought from any vendor, I don't recall what they are made of.


12. Has anyone used DMCH's key cutting service? how well were they cut? my key snapped in the ignition, and I was about to retrieve it. I sent them a picture, and they sent me two cut keys. but it was cut far too close to the base, which prevented the key from being seated properly. I had to cut off the front by a few mm's, and trim off some of the molded plastic. It works so i'm not butt hurt about it. Just a tiny bit disappointed for having ugly keys lol.

Call Houston directly and explain the situation to them directly. I suspect they will help address any expectations not met.


13. Resale value of cars with stock audio configuration vs 'improved' configurations? I have 2 speakers mounted in the rear firewall, as well as an amp. I made two foot well speakers and bolted it in the recess close to the door. Also two tweeters mounted in the door vent ducts (imagine the DMC vent covers, but as a tweeter).

Opinion only here, as the question is subjective: Replacement sound systems or decks don't hurt the value, but adding some big carpeted sub woofer box to the back does.


14. How's the condition of the frame?And how worried should I be about the oil leak? It's really slow, and I figured a layer of oil coating the frame might help prevent further rusting. Sorry if the angles are terrible. If there are specific spots that would be helpful in determining frame condition, let me know and i'll snap some more photos.

Hard to say definitively from the photos alone. It doesn't look great, but nothing more than peeling epoxy from what I could see.

That being said, the oil or brake fluid or whatever it is leaking in the front and rear, needs to be addressed. If only because it looks to have already done a number on your frame and fuel tank closing plate. If it was the brake master cylinder leaking, that fluid eats epoxy quickly. I would do some more inspecting in that area.

The picture is a bit close-up, but you have a ton of oily grime on an area that looks like it could be a rear main seal leak. Not sure really. What I do know for sure is that you would benefit immensely from getting the car raised up and go to town on cleaning any of that grime or filth or oil off the bottom. Not just to make it look pretty, but because it is not easy nor fun chasing leaks when you can't see where it is coming from. Get it cleaned and then look for the wet spot(s). You could have ATF leaking from a number of different places too with your auto trans.


According to my mechanic, the car is good enough as a weekend driver. However, it would be cheaper to sell this one and buy another one in better condition than to restore this one. Plus the auto is kinda boring. Anyone have suggestions for a price range? thought it might be a bit premature since there's still a lot of minor fixes that can be done to improve the overall resale value (or not i guess. not too sure).

This is about 10 different questions with 100 different answers. We could fill the forum for the rest of the week just discussing this paragraph.


15. has anyone considered coating the chassis with something like polyurethane to help further protect against rust? or even spraying several clear coats over the stainless steel just to prevent scratches and maybe help absorb the impact of rocks? Any thoughts on efficacy?

Clean it first.

Welcome to the wonderful world of DeLorean ownership. Please keep your seatbelt fastened and your arms inside the car at all times.

[DMCMW Dave]

On a forum like this you'll probably find it more effective to ask a bunch of questions as separate posts. Even if you post them all fairly close together. It is easier for people to reply quickly to something they know about (without running into the TLDR factor), and then having to edit responses into the questions. Jonathan did that very effectively here, but most folks won't bother.

[DMCMW Dave]

The rust isn't severe, but it should be addressed.

What oil is in it? If someone put in light oil (i.e. 10W20) and or diluted it with gasoline, the oil is too thin and will make noise AND tear up your cams/rockers. Also you are likely confusing the rocker noise with exhaust noise. It sounds similar to the casual observer, and in the initial stages of failure leaky manifold gaskets will quiet down as the car warms up.

If your cylinder pressures are really that low on a compression test, the engine should not run. Normal is above 100 psi (usually more like 140) and typically anything below 80 implies bad rings/cracked pistons etc. It would be very unusual to have them all as low as you posted and still have a viable engine. I'd get a new gauge and try again.

Pumping the gas pedal does not do anything other than wave the throttle in the wind.

The temp gauge needle is stuck at the gauge. To unstick it simply turn the key on and slap the left side of the binnacle with your open hand. Usually takes 2-3 hits. This is usually caused by bad grounds causing power surges as the car is turned off.

Make sure the brake pistons actually move in the calipers. If its a long storage car some of the pistons are probably stuck.

The main reason to sell it and buy another one is because YOU don't like the automatic. You have not posted any pictures of the overall car, but really everything you are asking about is relatively easy to fix. Unless your compression numbers are real, then you are looking for an engine/rebuild.

Some stuff you didn't ask about.

The fan shroud is apparently broken and one of the fans is held by some home made brackets.


The car is lowered, looks like a Grady spring kit.

[Ron]

RE compression test results:
FYI just in case, you should hold the throttle open while performing the test.

[kl31]

Thanks for the help everyone. Really clears up some of the questions I had.


The rust isn't severe, but it should be addressed.

What oil is in it? If someone put in light oil (i.e. 10W20) and or diluted it with gasoline, the oil is too thin and will make noise AND tear up your cams/rockers. Also you are likely confusing the rocker noise with exhaust noise. It sounds similar to the casual observer, and in the initial stages of failure leaky manifold gaskets will quiet down as the car warms up.

my dad's '98 Porsche 911 makes the sound of an exhaust leak. Delorean sounds nothing like it. The noise gets louder once the car warms up and returns to idle. If the engine starts from cold, the tick is relatively quiet and the idle is smooth. However, coming from a hot start, or at stopping at a stoplight, the ticking is far more apparent and the car starts shaking. The one time the engine was hot enough for the ticking to disappear was right before the coolant overheated and started venting (cooling fans shorted, jumped with fuse, it's no longer an issue).


I use 20W50 as recommended by DMC support when I change the oil. I dug through some receipts, my mechanic used 10W30 oil during my last inspection. It's time for an oil change anyways so I'll see if the proper oil makes a difference.

The main reason to sell it and buy another one is because YOU don't like the automatic. You have not posted any pictures of the overall car, but really everything you are asking about is relatively easy to fix. Unless your compression numbers are real, then you are looking for an engine/rebuild.

hmm really? my mechanic said that based on the compression numbers, the engine definitely needs to be changed for reliable daily driving. However, apparently the frame is also twisted, so an engine change wouldn't be worth doing. But the frame doesn't seem twisted. Where should I take photos to see if the frame is twisted? I'll post them on a separate thread.

Some stuff you didn't ask about.

The fan shroud is apparently broken and one of the fans is held by some home made brackets.

Should I upgrade to DPI fans?


The car is lowered, looks like a Grady spring kit.

The guy I bought the car from claims that he took it to PJ grady. But given the amount of rust on the springs, it might have been years ago. But when I took the car to PJ Grady, Rob said he has no record of the car being there. Strange.






Do YOU still listen to the radio?

I don't listen to the radio in YOUR car, if that's what you're asking. You probably don't need it, but then again, I'd ensure it isn't mis-wired in some haphazard way to cause a fire. I've never heard of antennas causing fires, but there's a first for everything I guess.

Nope not at all.

But some people might still want to listen to the radio if I sell the car. It was mainly rhetorical anyways since I personally can't see why anyone would listen to the radio. Personally I don't even bother with CD's. I just need an aux cord. I also want to remove it because antennas just look bad. I tried finding where I read that the antenna can cause a fire, but I was inundated with "hoverboard" fire hazard. they're not even actual hoverboards :banghead:



Hard to say definitively from the photos alone. It doesn't look great, but nothing more than peeling epoxy from what I could see.

That being said, the oil or brake fluid or whatever it is leaking in the front and rear, needs to be addressed. If only because it looks to have already done a number on your frame and fuel tank closing plate. If it was the brake master cylinder leaking, that fluid eats epoxy quickly. I would do some more inspecting in that area.

The picture is a bit close-up, but you have a ton of oily grime on an area that looks like it could be a rear main seal leak. Not sure really. What I do know for sure is that you would benefit immensely from getting the car raised up and go to town on cleaning any of that grime or filth or oil off the bottom. Not just to make it look pretty, but because it is not easy nor fun chasing leaks when you can't see where it is coming from. Get it cleaned and then look for the wet spot(s). You could have ATF leaking from a number of different places too with your auto trans.

Mechanic said its most likely a main seal leak and its normal on a car this old. Even my dad's 98 Porsche leaks, though a lot less. He said its nothing to be concerned about since its so slow, and pulling everything out just to replace a slow leak isn't really worth the labor cost.

But he did use 10W30 oil during last oil change. It's time for another oil change anyways, and I'll put in 20W50 and see if the leak improves.

[dn010]

At this point I'd be looking to take it to someone with a bit more knowledge on these cars (a vendor), or if you can't visit one then a different shop all together for a second opinion. You won't fix a leaking seal by using different oil, use the recommended oil for the engine.