New AC faceplate

[Bitsyncmaster]

I bought the new DMCH HVAC decal and decided to try it on a new faceplate that does not have the OEM light pipes cast into it.

The new decal is the one I've been waiting for. I had the last NOS decal DMCH was selling and my complaint with that one the text font was so small on the warning indicators you could miss seeing when one came on (FAN FAIL). The old NOS decal also had very light color filtering around the temperature red and blue rings that I could see my LED spots through them. Not only are those two problems fixed, the text has much sharper letters on the new decal.

This is the fourth time I've installed a decal. What you really need to do is have the decal held down flat and then carefully place your faceplate over it using the two push button holes for alignment. The best way would to have a vacuum plate (has lots of holes in it) but I guess you can use a little double sided tape to hold it down on the table.

My new faceplate is cut from lexon. The four corner standoffs are just held on with 4-40 100 deg. flat head screws. I will need to glue the center standoff onto the plastic. I also need to find a way to put a light blocking plate between the temperature ring LEDs and the text on the function knob to block the blue light bleeding into the green text light. That light bleed is no problem if you buy my "blue" LED board. I may also need some light blocking rings on the three warning indicators. I have not looked at light bleed with one of those on at a time.

The new decal also has a blue filter on the max "fan" function which the old NOS decal was green. I'm going to start putting a blue LED for that one new blue filter on my "green" LED boards.

[Patrick C]

Looks great!!!

[burch]

Looks fantastic, Dave! Hoping to upgrade to one of your boards this year, glad it looks so good with the new labels.

[81dmc]

Just installed Dave's AC panel a few days ago with the new label. It looks great, but at full brightness, the LEDs show under the black part of the label...

[Bitsyncmaster]

I am not planning to sell new faceplates. You all can build one. Use my PCB as a template for the 5 mounting holes. Use the decal as the template to cut the plastic. I used some hole saws and then finished with my oscillating spindle sander.

[Riley88]

I have Dave's led board for the faceplate. It isn't a difficult project and it's amazing. 10 out of 10, you don't have one installed buy and do the install. Keeps the faceplate cool too and stops it from warping due to heat!

[1batt4u]

Dave, how much is a LED panel?

[Bitsyncmaster]

My internet is very bad here in Tahoe so I may not get to reply much until March 2.

Fan Fail, $94
Electronic fused Fan Fail, $114
Dome unit, $88
RPM relay, $83 with your old unit
Fan relay, $77
Blower relay, $72
Head Light relay, $72
Hot Start relay, $66
Pair of window switch LED boards, $20, $25 installed, requires the new DMCH switches.
Idle ECU, $138 with your old unit. I have 11 pin units also for $150 with your 9 pin unit returned.
LED AC panel, $110. Your choice of blue or green backlighting.
Front Relay Bank Ground Buss, $15. $10 if combined with another product.

Prices include shipping to lower 48 states

[Redsquall]

Is this it? http://store.delorean.com/p-7787-ac-fascia-decal.aspx


I bought the new DMCH HVAC decal and decided to try it on a new faceplate that does not have the OEM light pipes cast into it.

The new decal is the one I've been waiting for. I had the last NOS decal DMCH was selling and my complaint with that one the text font was so small on the warning indicators you could miss seeing when one came on (FAN FAIL). The old NOS decal also had very light color filtering around the temperature red and blue rings that I could see my LED spots through them. Not only are those two problems fixed, the text has much sharper letters on the new decal.

This is the fourth time I've installed a decal. What you really need to do is have the decal held down flat and then carefully place your faceplate over it using the two push button holes for alignment. The best way would to have a vacuum plate (has lots of holes in it) but I guess you can use a little double sided tape to hold it down on the table.

My new faceplate is cut from lexon. The four corner standoffs are just held on with 4-40 100 deg. flat head screws. I will need to glue the center standoff onto the plastic. I also need to find a way to put a light blocking plate between the temperature ring LEDs and the text on the function knob to block the blue light bleeding into the green text light. That light bleed is no problem if you buy my "blue" LED board. I may also need some light blocking rings on the three warning indicators. I have not looked at light bleed with one of those on at a time.

The new decal also has a blue filter on the max "fan" function which the old NOS decal was green. I'm going to start putting a blue LED for that one new blue filter on my "green" LED boards.

[Patrick C]

Is this it? http://store.delorean.com/p-7787-ac-fascia-decal.aspxhttp://store.delorean.com/images/Product/large/108921.JPG

Other new reproductions are here:

http://www.delorean.eu/catalog/images/IMG_4594.JPG

http://www.delorean.eu/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=174&products_id=168112&osCsid=48pkuj93ql4leeohahsnepikl1

and
http://www.delorean.eu/catalog/images/IMG_4593.JPG
http://www.delorean.eu/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=174&products_id=168111&osCsid=48pkuj93ql4leeohahsnepikl1

[1batt4u]

Colors are way off on decals.

81dmc mentioned light passes through the black on the decal??

[81dmc]

Colors are way off on decals.

81dmc mentioned light passes through the black on the decal??

The only reason light passes through mine is my stupidity. When I received the the decal, I never looked on the back of the cardboard! So, there was supposed to be another silver decal installed between the real decal and the plastic.

[Bitsyncmaster]

The only reason light passes through mine is my stupidity. When I received the the decal, I never looked on the back of the cardboard! So, there was supposed to be another silver decal installed between the real decal and the plastic.

How long ago did you buy your decal?

I will post a photo of my new one in the car when I get back home from my ski trip.

[81dmc]

How long ago did you buy your decal?

I will post a photo of my new one in the car when I get back home from my ski trip.

I bought mine back in 2015 when they first came out.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I bought mine back in 2015 when they first came out.

Mine was just purchased from a new batch. There is no second silver decal to install.

[81dmc]

Mine was just purchased from a new batch. There is no second silver decal to install.

Does yours leak through with your LED boards?


Anyways, I'm glad to see DMCH is doing a great job with abrupt production changes!

[Bitsyncmaster]

Does yours leak through with your LED boards?


Anyways, I'm glad to see DMCH is doing a great job with abrupt production changes!

I have not seen any "leak through" just testing on the bench. I will have to look closely when it's installed and dark outside.
Was there any particular area you noticed leak through?

[Timebender]

That's pretty slick. I think that might be one of my next upgrades. I might even send my new switches to Dave to get the LED's installed as well.

[81dmc]

Was there any particular area you noticed leak through?

The decal is leaking through the original light channels. However, instead of sanding them, I cleaned the paint off with denatured alcohol.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Here is my fix for the blue light bleeding into the green text on my new flat AC faceplate. Was not sure this would work since my lexan faceplate is almost a quarter inch thick. But testing on the bench does stop all that blue light bleed. This was made with some brass shim stock and glued onto the lexan. I just cleaned both surfaces with solvent so not sure the epoxy will hold it forever.

Will mount it in the car to determine if I need to add some light blocking rings on the warning indicator LEDs.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I installed the new faceplate in my car. As I suspected I need to put a light blocking cylinder over the "REAR DEF" indicator. I also should have the "cylinders" over the two push buttons like was done on the OEM faceplate. So if anyone is going to produce new faceplates, this info should help. The lighting on the text is very even without the light pipes which did shadow the light a little.

I will take a photo when it gets dark.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I glued some black paper onto the center "rear def." warning light and it did help a lot with reducing light bleed from the "door open" warning light. But to get perfection would require that light blocking to run all the way to the decal like was done on the OEM faceplate with holes through the faceplate. I guess I could also have milled a slot in the plastic to have the light blocker closer to the decal. My new faceplate is 1/4" thick lexan so that's how the light angles can shine under my light blocks.

If I get another decal, I may just go back to the OEM faceplate but this experimentation was interesting work.

I need to find a better decal for my 4 way blinker push button where the black ink has cracked from age.

[81dmc]

I glued some black paper onto the center "rear def." warning light and it did help a lot with reducing light bleed from the "door open" warning light. But to get perfection would require that light blocking to run all the way to the decal like was done on the OEM faceplate with holes through the faceplate. I guess I could also have milled a slot in the plastic to have the light blocker closer to the decal. My new faceplate is 1/4" thick lexan so that's how the light angles can shine under my light blocks.

If I get another decal, I may just go back to the OEM faceplate but this experimentation was interesting work.

I need to find a better decal for my 4 way blinker push button where the black ink has cracked from age.

That looks great! I might need to cut myself a piece of lexan...