How to disassemble the front hub / rotor / spindle

[DrJeff]

Does anyone have a good reference / link / instructions on how to disassemble the front hub / rotor / spindle?

Thanks
Jeff

[Mark D]

What's the main reason for wanting to disassemble the front hub? Replacing bearings? Are you trying to remove the entire steering knuckle?

I don't have a copy of the workshop manual handy, but I believe there should be steps listed in there depending on how far you need to disassemble.

Basic steps would be to:

1. Remove wheel
2. Remove two brake caliper bolts that secure the caliper to the mounting bracket attached to the steering knuckle.
3. Lift brake caliper out of the way and hang it up with a piece of wire so it is not hanging supported by the brake hose.
4. Remove large outer wheel hub nut.
5. Pull hub assembly off the spindle... the bearing will most likely separate into two halves which is fine since most likely you'll want replace the bearing anyway while you're in there.
6. To remove the spindle from the knuckle loosen (but do not remove) the large inner nut (on driver's side this is the speedo angle drive)
7. Working from the inside outward, use an air chisel with cone shaped attachment to break free the spindle from the steering knuckle. The parts are held together with a taper lock. Keeping the inner nut in place will prevent the spindle from flying out once it is broken free.
8. Remove the inner nut the rest of the way and remove the spindle.

To remove the drive'rs side you can't remove the spindle without fully removing the angle drive, so if you remove the passenger side spindle first so you can use the inner nut on the driver's side while you're air chiseling the driver's side spindle out.

Alternatively, if you're removing the entire steering knuckle you can also press the spindles out on a bench press instead of using an air chisel.

Installation goes in the opposite order... Be sure to tighten the inner nut on the spindle first before installing the outer hub nut. If you install the outer nut first then you won't fully taper lock the spindle into the knuckle.

[DrJeff]

Mark,

I have the whole knuckle/hub assembly off the car (part of a new springs / SS LCA & ball-joint / all bushings job). I also have a shop press (HF 12 ton special). The bit I was missing was steps 6, 7 and 8 - in particular that the spindle is pressed in and exits on the outside of the hub. I tried removing the angle drive nut with my 32mm wrench, but instead ended up braking my vice. After I fixed the vice, trying to shift the nut indicates a strong/heavier workbench is needed.

I need to have the rotors machined or replaced. Front LHS has a nice gouge. Looks like the rotors have never been off before. I also want to clean up the hub and knuckle.

Thanks
Jeff

[Mark D]

OK that makes sense then. You should have no problem using your shop press to pop the spindles from the knuckles...that is assuming that you can free the angle drive nut from the driver's side. If I remember correctly I loosened the nuts while the knuckles were still attached to the car and that gave me enough leverage to get them free. Sounds like you just need sturdier object to attach your vice to.

When reinstalling the spindles I waited until the knuckles were installed back on the car to get the leverage needed to tighten them up all the way. To hold the spindle from rotating while I tightened the inner nut I installed a nut on the outer thread of the bare spindle and held it with a breaker bar. I should have a photo of that somewhere. It took a few washers stacked up below the outside nut so it was far enough out where a socket would fit completely over the nut. Otherwise the socket I was using wasn't deep enough to reach the nut.

I also had my brake rotors turned down and resurfaced. The min thickness for each should be cast into the rotor itself so the shop knows how far they can go. Mine were still in good shape and the place I took them to only had to remove a tiny amount of material to get them trued up.

[Mark D]

Here is that photo I took showing how I held the spindle with the breaker bar and tightened the inner nut with a large wrench.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=40218&d=1456798570

[DrJeff]

Here is that photo I took showing how I held the spindle with the breaker bar and tightened the inner nut with a large wrench.

Okay, I think I'm getting it now (picture helped)... The spindle is tapper locked to the knuckle (wider on the outside, narrower on the inside). The nut on the backside (inner side) of the knuckle secures the spindle in place. The wheel bearing is pressed onto the spindle and the hub is pressed on to the wheel bearing.

I've had the axle nut and D washer off and looked at the circlip. Other than acting as a stopping point for the wheel bearing (to prevent it migrating outwards), I'm not sure what else the circlip is doing.

Jeff

[Mark D]

Okay, I think I'm getting it now (picture helped)... The spindle is tapper locked to the knuckle (wider on the outside, narrower on the inside). The nut on the backside (inner side) of the knuckle secures the spindle in place. The wheel bearing is pressed onto the spindle and the hub is pressed on to the wheel bearing.

I've had the axle nut and D washer off and looked at the circlip. Other than acting as a stopping point for the wheel bearing (to prevent it migrating outwards), I'm not sure what else the circlip is doing.

Jeff

You've basically got it correct.. the bearing isn't exactly a press fit onto the spindle but over the years it seems to get stuck in place and can require a little work to remove. It seems to be a common thing for the bearing to separate into two pieces as you pull the hub off the spindle. You'll be left with the outer race of the bearing still inside the hub and one half of the inner race still stuck on the spindle shaft. You can either use a puller to get the half of the inner race off the spindle, or once the spindle is removed from the knuckle use your press to get the inner race off the spindle.

The bearing is a press fit into the hub and will definitely require a press to remove and install. I remember it taking a lot of force for the bearing to finally pop free of the hub during removal.

After cleaning everything up reassembly should be a little easier. I greased up the spindle a little and was able to slide the bearing/hub/rotor assembly onto the spindle with a few light taps to the inner race of the bearing. Once the outer hub nut is reinstalled that ensures that the inner race of the bearing is locked into position on the spindle. The bearing is what rotates and inner race of the bearing does not spin on the spindle.

Here are a few more photos of the installation process:

Knuckle installed to the upper and lower control arms prior to spindle installation:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=32483&d=1421355357


Spindle installed into the knuckle:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=32484&d=1421355357

Pressing new bearings into the hubs:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=24716&d=1390506397

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=24717&d=1390506397

Getting ready to bolt rotor to hub:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=19003&d=1368206421

Hub assembly ready to install onto spindle:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=19004&d=1368206428

I've got more photos on my other computer if you think that would be helpful, these were all I had already uploaded to the board here.

[DrJeff]

Very good pictures and advice. I was able to get everything disassembled apart from the spindle out of either knuckle - it is really stuck in there. No worries because I was still able to clean the knuckle. I didn't have to press the hub off the spindle, they just slipped off.

I did get a bit of a surprise when I dug my front wheel bearings out of inventory...

40308

No matter how hard I might press, these "front" bearings are not going into those hubs! It looks like the front and rear labels got switched. The new "front" (actually rear) bearings look to be in very good condition, by but the "rear" (actual front bearings) are in pretty bad shape. Looks like a lot of grease leaked out from between the gap in the inner race (both bearings)? I'm not going to chance putting these into the hubs - this is a job I'd rather not do again for a while.

Jeff