Door bracket from Heninger and Associates, Inc.

[penciltester]

This might have been beat to death already but what are your guys opinions on these door brackets? Do they actually help reduce roof separation? Just a gimmick? Those who have them, do you think it was worth the investment? Any oddities to date with them being installed?


Link to brackets: http://deloreannewparts.com/store/page22.html


As a possible bonus, link to something called Lift Stands that looks interesting: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cXCvq6DNJi0


Thanks again everyone

[dn010]

I think it's a bit late to try reducing roof separation after 34+ years. Both doors opening higher together may damage the T panel too depending on how it is adjusted. I will agree that opening the door to a higher extent will reduce the torsion bar tension (that is how I remove the T-bar, remove the piston and open the door as high as it will go and you have hardly any tension when removing the bar). I'd be interested in seeing if any kind of damage comes from where the updated bracket installs after years of use, I don't think it is really that reinforced in that area, is it?

For $500 I think most people will just stick with what they've got - how often do we really have the doors open anyway...

[content22207_2]

Ball stud isn't attached to the roof box -- it's attached to the fiberglass underbody.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[81dmc]

Those bracket are NOT worth $500 IMO. I made my own $50 redneck bracket similar to Heninger's. I have no problems to date, and don't have to worry about the doors falling any time soon. His brackets are probably that high of price as it requires special length struts.

[Delorean Industries]

Proper fix but requires a little more work. Retains factory mount location and is a fraction of the price.
http://www.deloreanindustries.com/lower-door-strut-reinforcement-bracket-kit-stainless/



Josh Bengston
President
DeLorean Industries

[81dmc]

Proper fix but requires a little more work. Retains factory mount location and is a fraction of the price.
http://www.deloreanindustries.com/lower-door-strut-reinforcement-bracket-kit-stainless/



Josh Bengston
President
DeLorean Industries

Josh, I tried your brackets, but my fiberglass was too destroyed to stay secure.

[penciltester]

@Josh

What is the installation procedure compared to Heninger and Associates bracket?

[Chris 16409]

Heninger brackets don't require stainless panel removal. I've been using the brackets for at least three years now. It may not be a factory look alike repair, but it requires less labor to install. The current version of these brackets are called "Blue Sky". I do not have the new version but Heninger's pervious version. No issues to date.

40253

[Bitsyncmaster]

Heninger brackets don't require stainless panel removal. I've been using the brackets for at least three years now. It may not be a factory look alike repair, but it requires less labor to install. The current version of these brackets are called "Blue Sky". I do not have the new version but Heninger's pervious version. No issues to date.

40253

I have his older brackets and happy the way they work. But his prices have way to much margin for what they must cost him to make. I think he would make more money with lower prices and selling more units.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

@Josh

What is the installation procedure compared to Heninger and Associates bracket?

I designed this bracket back in the early 90's so I can tell you. You need to remove the T roof and partially remove the quarter panel (Remove front screws and separate it from the filler panel). Next drill out the rivets or unscrew the filler panel depending on the VIN. The original whimpy bracket is now fully exposed. If there if fiberglass damage that needs to be addressed before going forward. If you've caught this early enough it's a matter of simply unbolting the old plate and installing the new larger plate. Then you drill two 1/4" holes using the extended "ears" as a template and install the supplied 1/4" rivets. The only "special tool" required is a large rivet gun. Reassemble and you have a much stronger ball-stud mounting bracket but it looks totally stock from the outside. Although we supply the kit with the inner bracket as well in case you need it you can often leave it alone if there is no only very minor fiberglass damage.
Rob

[dn010]

I noticed that the driver side gas strut stud on my car is angled downwards a little bit, is this a sign of a failing bracket?


I designed this bracket back in the early 90's so I can tell you. You need to remove the T roof and partially remove the quarter panel (Remove front screws and separate it from the filler panel). Next drill out the rivets or unscrew the filler panel depending on the VIN. The original whimpy bracket is now fully exposed. If there if fiberglass damage that needs to be addressed before going forward. If you've caught this early enough it's a matter of simply unbolting the old plate and installing the new larger plate. Then you drill two 1/4" holes using the extended "ears" as a template and install the supplied 1/4" rivets. The only "special tool" required is a large rivet gun. Reassemble and you have a much stronger ball-stud mounting bracket but it looks totally stock from the outside. Although we supply the kit with the inner bracket as well in case you need it you can often leave it alone if there is no only very minor fiberglass damage.
Rob

[PJ Grady Inc.]

I noticed that the driver side gas strut stud on my car is angled downwards a little bit, is this a sign of a failing bracket?
Yes....we have the stainless kit in stock too! Post a pic if you get a chance.
Rob

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Ball stud isn't attached to the roof box -- it's attached to the fiberglass underbody.

Bill Robertson
#5939
The problem is it seems to be attached with a bunch of sheet metal screws drilled directly into the roof. It's not reinforced there and introduces another 1/2 dozen potential water leak areas to be concerned with per side. You could use 1/4" rivets instead but I could never install this on a car as it looks too agricultural for me. The cost ($477-!) for a couple of flat steel plates, some sheet metal screws, a pair of gas springs and ball-studs is also exorbitant but secondary as to "Why do this to your car?".
It's an ugly rust magnet that's sure to lower the value of the car. I feel the same way about his proprietary torsion bar but I guess it's just me?
Rob

[dn010]

Here is what I've got.http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160302/3df20c5a6715ca4e5e3a55887bcf866f.jpg

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Oh......yeah that's bent Dan! You can probably avoid F.G. damage if you get to fixing it ASAP.
Rob

[dn010]

Just when you think your almost done with the car. I'm glad this thread came up now or I wouldn't have looked at my brackets.

I'll be calling you tomorrow for replacements.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[Nicholas R]

I could never install this on my car for 2 reasons. First, like Rob said, that price is ridiculous. Almost $500?? No way. Thats about $50 worth of materials and hardware, and being generous, $100 worth of gas struts. (I also dont like how it looks)

Then, if I'm looking at this correctly, on these new brackets of his the ball stud gets moved further outward, meaning you're locked into using those specific struts for the life of your car! Gas struts are always a wear item, and being able to pick from several different sources is important; especially as availability for some come and go. The uninformed next owner of a car with these is going to be really cursing their previous owner when they find out that none of the DMCH, DMCNW, Grady, Hervey, etc. struts will work on their car (especially if Heninger stops selling his some day). To me, this is even worse than the crazy price.

His old brackets at least kept the factory location. These could have been made to use the original location, but it must have been cheaper for him to get the struts with the longer stroke. Once you switch, your car is stuck with those struts from now on.

[81dmc]

I could never install this on my car for 2 reasons. First, like Rob said, that price is ridiculous. Almost $500?? No way. Thats about $50 worth of raw materials and hardware, and being generous, $100 worth of gas struts. (I also dont like how it looks)

Then, if I'm looking at this correctly, on these new brackets of his the ball stud gets moved further outward, meaning you're locked into using those specific struts for the life of your car! Gas struts are always a wear item, and being able to pick from several different sources is important; especially as availability for some come and go. The uninformed next owner of a car with these is going to be really cursing their previous owner when they find out that none of the DMCH, DMCNW, Grady, Hervey, etc. struts will work on their car (especially if Heninger stops selling his some day). To me, this is even worse than the crazy price.

Those are the EXACT reasons I passed his brackets up—It locks you out of buying stock length gas struts.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Those are the EXACT reasons I passed his brackets up—It locks you out of buying stock length gas struts.

Just ANOTHER good reason to take a pass.
Rob