What to do with gas in oil?

[Redsquall]

Just bought it. It starts up pretty quick but smokes quite a bit. Confirmed gas in the oil. Almost 1 inch too high on dipstick with gas smell in oil. The following parts were replaced by the consignment place about 5 months before I got it (see list below). What should I replace? What could be the possible causes? Thanks in advance. Lets get this thing running normally again. Previous owner says it was in running condition and drove it all over fine and it idled steadily. (He sent me a video of it idling fine before it came)

-New battery
-New thermostat
-New fuel filter
-New coolant valve
-Tune up
-New spark plugs
-New ignition coil
-New distributor cap
-New spark plug wires
-New door shocks
-New starter
-New fuel injector
-New fuel pressure accumulator
-Verified correct timing
-Repair vacuum lines

[DMCMW Dave]

Just bought it. It starts up pretty quick but smokes quite a bit. Confirmed gas in the oil. Almost 1 inch too high on dipstick with gas smell in oil. ]

Change the oil NOW. That much gas in the oil is really tough on cams, rockers, bearings etc.

[Nicholas R]

An inch of Gasoline in the oil??? Are you sure about that? Seems like the only way that can even happen is if your injectors are somehow spraying fuel into the cylinders non stop, while the engine isn't running, and the gas slips past the piston rings down into the crankcase.

Regardless, if your oil is 1" too high, before you do anything or start trying to replace parts, the first step is to just do an oil change. Then you've got a clean slate, and can observe the situation yourself.

[Redsquall]

See photos attached for dipstick and what exhaust looks like for first 10 minutes of running. Ok, I'll change oil. When it's changed, how should I methodically test this? Thanks guys






An inch of Gasoline in the oil??? Are you sure about that? Seems like the only way that can even happen is if your injectors are somehow spraying fuel into the cylinders non stop, while the engine isn't running, and the gas slips past the piston rings down into the crankcase.

Regardless, if your oil is 1" too high, before you do anything or start trying to replace parts, the first step is to just do an oil change. Then you've got a clean slate, and can observe the situation yourself.

[David T]

2 things that could have caused it, the fuel plunger is/was stuck and/or the cold start valve is stuck on. It could be this happened and was fixed. As mentioned change the oil and filter ASAP. For that much fuel to get into the motor the catalytic converter will glow red. The other danger is possible explosive hazard.

[Redsquall]

Is it ok to drain it and leave it drained for a week until I get the copper washers and filter?



2 things that could have caused it, the fuel plunger is/was stuck and/or the cold start valve is stuck on. It could be this happened and was fixed. As mentioned change the oil and filter ASAP. For that much fuel to get into the motor the catalytic converter will glow red. The other danger is possible explosive hazard.

[Morpheus]

Leaving it empty for a week shouldn't hurt anything. Leave the battery disconnected as well.

[cdrusn]

Leaving it empty for a week shouldn't hurt anything. Leave the battery disconnected as well.

Mine did the same thing until the gas was coming out of the main seal onto the ground. It was bad fuel injectors that I had cleaned but cleaning
didn't correct the inside spring from being weak. They were all leaking all the time instead of holding the fuel until their turn. New injectors and
runs great.:flamed:

[Redsquall]

Interesting, I bought it about 2 months ago. The consignment car lot said they replaced all injectors, but how can I be sure that they are new? Is there a simple test like taking one out after I turn off the car to see if it leaks because of weak spring?


Thanks



Mine did the same thing until the gas was coming out of the main seal onto the ground. It was bad fuel injectors that I had cleaned but cleaning
didn't correct the inside spring from being weak. They were all leaking all the time instead of holding the fuel until their turn. New injectors and
runs great.:flamed:

[DMCMW Dave]

Interesting, I bought it about 2 months ago. The consignment car lot said they replaced all injectors, but how can I be sure that they are new? Is there a simple test like taking one out after I turn off the car to see if it leaks because of weak spring?


Thanks

Take at least one, but all are better, out of the engine and point into bottles. Jumper the RPM relay (brown to white/purple) to turn on the fuel pump. I'll bet they are all spraying, and the CO is just way too rich. But if you have one bad one, or a bad fuel distributor, you'll localize it pretty quickly. This is the best way to get a horribly adjusted CO setting back in range.

Does the consignment lot tech work on K-Jet much? (loaded question!!).

[Redsquall]

Dave,
I'm really excited to get this thing in shape to not get stranded. The world will be a better place when this delorean is out there on the road.
1. I did recently change the oil and adjust that CO screw down by about a half turn and it did seem to help, but after I ran the car for half an hour – it seems to be way too rich again and hard to start). Here's how it behaved: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?13560-Starts-Cold-amp-Hot-but-no-so-much-quot-warm-quot&p=195632#post195632

2. so if they all have a nice stream and if when I take the jumper out they immediately stop spraying – that should mean that the fuel injectors are good?
3. if they have a nice stream in a take the jumper out but they leak–with that mean that either the fuel injectors have a weeks spring inside them OR the fuel distributor is letting fuel go out after it's off?
4. is there a tutorial somewhere on adjusting CO by looking at the spray?
I doubt the consignment lot tech knows much about K-Jet. I tried to talk to them but they gave me sloppy answers that I didn't trust, so I just need to find out what as what for myself on this car.
Thank you very much Dave (and others)


Take at least one, but all are better, out of the engine and point into bottles. Jumper the RPM relay (brown to white/purple) to turn on the fuel pump. I'll bet they are all spraying, and the CO is just way too rich. But if you have one bad one, or a bad fuel distributor, you'll localize it pretty quickly. This is the best way to get a horribly adjusted CO setting back in range.

Does the consignment lot tech work on K-Jet much? (loaded question!!).

[jmettee]

Dave,
2. so if they all have a nice stream and if when I take the jumper out they immediately stop spraying – that should mean that the fuel injectors are good?


For one, you can't set the CO without a dwell meter. There is no good way to get "close enough" without the right tool. They aren't terrible expensive. I use an Actron CP7677 which is a multimeter with dwell function....very useful for the garage AND you can use it to set your CO/fuel mixture on the DMC. Only about $30.

For your #2, just to be clear, when you jumper the RPM relay, your injectors shouldn't be spraying or leaking. If they are, then you have your mixture set way too rich & would explain the fuel in the oil. When set properly your pump will run by the jumped RPM relay & there will be nothing coming out of your injectors until you press down on the air plate in the mixture unit.

This video should add some clarity:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1adoUkH70c

[David T]

Push on the air sensor plate with the fuel pump running and the motor off. If you do not feel any resistance the fuel plunger is stuck. You must unstick it before doing anything else. if you DO feel resistance remove the Cold Start Valve and make sure it is not squirting except when the motor is cold and you are cranking it to start it.

[cdrusn]

Mine did the same thing until the gas was coming out of the main seal onto the ground. It was bad fuel injectors that I had cleaned but cleaning
didn't correct the inside spring from being weak. They were all leaking all the time instead of holding the fuel until their turn. New injectors and
runs great.:flamed:

Exactly what happened to mine. The springs were stuck in what ever position they were in when the car was stored 10 years ago. Ran fine but brought tears to your eyes when you were behind the engine. Had Special T clean the injectors and they got worse. Replaced with new injectors and problem was fixed.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Exactly what happened to mine. The springs were stuck in what ever position they were in when the car was stored 10 years ago. Ran fine but brought tears to your eyes when you were behind the engine. Had Special T clean the injectors and they got worse. Replaced with new injectors and problem was fixed.

There are no springs in the air sensor housing. FWI it's a cantilever style design. Cleaning the fuel injectors rarely works but it was worth a try I guess.
Rob

[Redsquall]

What specific test did you run to confirm that you needed to replace the injectors?


Exactly what happened to mine. The springs were stuck in what ever position they were in when the car was stored 10 years ago. Ran fine but brought tears to your eyes when you were behind the engine. Had Special T clean the injectors and they got worse. Replaced with new injectors and problem was fixed.

[Redsquall]

Okay so trying to eliminate possibilities here– are you saying that the air sensor plate should never bounce around even if the car is not been driven in the week? I'm under the impression that the cars will lose their fuel pressure after about a day anyway - are you saying that if it ever bounces around that always means you're fuel plunger is stuck? Thank you very much– just trying to understand exactly how these things relate


Push on the air sensor plate with the fuel pump running and the motor off. If you do not feel any resistance the fuel plunger is stuck. You must unstick it before doing anything else. if you DO feel resistance remove the Cold Start Valve and make sure it is not squirting except when the motor is cold and you are cranking it to start it.

[Redsquall]

OK, I did the fuel injector teset - all injectors shot out fuel only when i pushed down the air plate with the rpm relay jumped. I have attached 2 pics of a couple of my fuel injectors– they are supposedly knew about six months ago. Do they look like their new about six months ago? Is there anything else I should do to them while I have them on plug? - in the meantime, I am going to check the fuel accumulator to see if it looks new. It is supposedly new as of six months ago as well



For one, you can't set the CO without a dwell meter. There is no good way to get "close enough" without the right tool. They aren't terrible expensive. I use an Actron CP7677 which is a multimeter with dwell function....very useful for the garage AND you can use it to set your CO/fuel mixture on the DMC. Only about $30.

For your #2, just to be clear, when you jumper the RPM relay, your injectors shouldn't be spraying or leaking. If they are, then you have your mixture set way too rich & would explain the fuel in the oil. When set properly your pump will run by the jumped RPM relay & there will be nothing coming out of your injectors until you press down on the air plate in the mixture unit.

This video should add some clarity:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1adoUkH70c