Door Replacement - Wiring Harness

[dmruschell]

I'm helping a friend replace the damaged door on his DeLorean. We've gotten all of the hardware transferred over; the last thing (besides glass, which we're having a professional do) to do is to remove and reinstall the wiring harness. For that to happen, we need to disconnect the connectors from the wiring harness. We've already purchased a tool that was supposed to have mae this easier (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KQDS6G?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00), but the tool is the wrong size to work with the plugs in the DMC wiring harness. Has anyone had better luck with a tool for removing the connectors on a DeLorean? Any ideas are welcomed.

[81dmc]

When I replaced my driver's door, I used a small electronics flathead to disengage the tabs to each pin. Also, remember to take note where each wire goes.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I had to machine a tool to remove the male and female round pins in those connectors. Even with that correct tool the female pins take quite a pull to remove them. The locks on those pins are pointed and they dig into the plastic connector.

Not sure if those are they type of connectors you are taking about.

[81dmc]

Oh, so you're removing the connectors behind the door panel? When I did mine, I removed the two square connectors, taped the connections into a round bundle, them used a steel wire to pull it up from the bottom of the door to the roof area.

[dmruschell]

I had to machine a tool to remove the male and female round pins in those connectors. Even with that correct tool the female pins take quite a pull to remove them. The locks on those pins are pointed and they dig into the plastic connector.

Not sure if those are they type of connectors you are taking about.

The attached picture shows the connector I'm talking about (though the pins aren't visible; the plugs are mostly the female pins). 40392

Any chance you'd have dimensions for the tool or would let us borrow it? :)

We've tried little screwdrivers and the other tools in that pack from Amazon. The screwdrivers are too large and the thin tools are too flimsy.

[Josh]

When I replaced my doors I left the door side of the harness alone and un-pinned the roof side of the harness. Fed a fish line down though the "B" billar of the door and snaked the harness back up. I dont remember it being very difficult to un-pin the harness. I just used a flat head screwdriver.

[Bitsyncmaster]

The attached picture shows the connector I'm talking about (though the pins aren't visible; the plugs are mostly the female pins). 40392

Any chance you'd have dimensions for the tool or would let us borrow it? :)

We've tried little screwdrivers and the other tools in that pack from Amazon. The screwdrivers are too large and the thin tools are too flimsy.

PM me your address and I will priority mail it to you. I will take measurements first in case you break it. The tool is not hardened and is just cut from 4130 steel.

[BABIS]

I found my own way to remove 3mm female pins: first I pry one tab with a small flat screwdriver, then I keep the screwdriver against the other tab and I insert another thin screwdriver inside the pin, a couple of strike against this screwdriver make the pin popping out from the rear part of the connector..

if you ruin some pins you can buy them new: http://www.britishwiring.com/product-p/c832.htm

[Bitsyncmaster]

Cut from 4.7" long, 0.375" dia. 4130 rod.

Female end:
OD = 0.194" dia. 0.550" long
Drill with #21 bit (0.159"), 0.475" deep

Male end:
OD = 0.199" dia. 0.280" long
Step 2:
OD = 0.250" dia. 0.480" long
Drill with #29 bit (0.136"), 0.750" deep

Note the photo of the pin "locks". Because they are pointed, you press on the wire end as inserting the extractor so you try to lift those points off the plastic connector.

[DMCMW Dave]

The attached picture shows the connector I'm talking about (though the pins aren't visible; the plugs are mostly the female pins). 40392

Any chance you'd have dimensions for the tool or would let us borrow it? :)

We've tried little screwdrivers and the other tools in that pack from Amazon. The screwdrivers are too large and the thin tools are too flimsy.

That's the wrong end of the wire. Remove the three plugs that hang out the top of the door. They are flat and a lot easier to get off.

[81dmc]

That's the wrong end of the wire. Remove the three plugs that hang out the top of the door. They are flat and a lot easier to get off.

Exactly! Much easier that way!

[dmruschell]

That's the wrong end of the wire. Remove the three plugs that hang out the top of the door. They are flat and a lot easier to get off.

How do you get the wires out of the plugs on those? It wasn't immediately obvious when looking at it. Is there a tool for it?

[dmruschell]

Cut from 4.7" long, 0.375" dia. 4130 rod.

Female end:
OD = 0.194" dia. 0.550" long
Drill with #21 bit (0.159"), 0.475" deep

Male end:
OD = 0.199" dia. 0.280" long
Step 2:
OD = 0.250" dia. 0.480" long
Drill with #29 bit (0.136"), 0.750" deep

Note the photo of the pin "locks". Because they are pointed, you press on the wire end as inserting the extractor so you try to lift those points off the plastic connector.

Thanks for being willing to let us borrow your tool. Since it is a custom made tool that you made, I'm going to consider it a last resort. However, the measurements you provided are helpful. I found this webpage of different tools for different size connectors, measured in milimeters. 0.159 inches = 4.0386 mm. I'm thinking the "For ABS contact 4.0mm" tool (3rd from the bottom) might be the best fit, unless I'm mistaking the measurements that the website is talking about. Thoughts?

Here's the website: http://www.rennsteig.us/products/insertion-and-removal-tools/round-connector-tool.html

[Bitsyncmaster]

Thanks for being willing to let us borrow your tool. Since it is a custom made tool that you made, I'm going to consider it a last resort. However, the measurements you provided are helpful. I found this webpage of different tools for different size connectors, measured in milimeters. 0.159 inches = 4.0386 mm. I'm thinking the "For ABS contact 4.0mm" tool (3rd from the bottom) might be the best fit, unless I'm mistaking the measurements that the website is talking about. Thoughts?

Here's the website: http://www.rennsteig.us/products/insertion-and-removal-tools/round-connector-tool.html

That web site must be down at the moment. I would have to guess someone makes a removal tool for those pins. Every owner should have one that works on the D. I'm not really setup to sell machined parts but these are not that time consuming to make. Maybe I will look into providing this extractor tool.

[DMCMW Dave]

How do you get the wires out of the plugs on those? It wasn't immediately obvious when looking at it. Is there a tool for it?

Tiny screwdrivers.

[TTait]

Well, removing the connectors from the wires would certainly make it easier, but I just left them on and it worked.

I used a section of a long thin plastic bag and placed it over the wiring harness, secured it with cable ties at narrow points, used some wire lube on the outside and carefully worked it through with the connectors intact. it was tight, but it fit.

T

[DMCMW Dave]

Well, removing the connectors from the wires would certainly make it easier, but I just left them on and it worked.

I used a section of a long thin plastic bag and placed it over the wiring harness, secured it with cable ties at narrow points, used some wire lube on the outside and carefully worked it through with the connectors intact. it was tight, but it fit.

T

Not the roof connectors - you mean all the inside-the-door connectors?

[81dmc]

Wow, some sure like to do things the hard way! Just remove the pins from the two roof connectors and be done with it!

[Bitsyncmaster]

Cut from 4.7" long, 0.375" dia. 4130 rod.

Female end:
OD = 0.194" dia. 0.550" long
Drill with #21 bit (0.159"), 0.475" deep

Male end:
OD = 0.199" dia. 0.280" long
Step 2:
OD = 0.250" dia. 0.480" long
Drill with #29 bit (0.136"), 0.750" deep

Note the photo of the pin "locks". Because they are pointed, you press on the wire end as inserting the extractor so you try to lift those points off the plastic connector.

I was looking more into making pin extractors for sale. I was testing some new pins (male pin) and decided the drill hole for that extractor should be 0.143". These pins have locking fingers that don't compress into the body of the pin so it's a matter of trial and error to find correct sizes. I will order some 4130 rod and see how long it takes me to machine these up. Will also order reamers so the holes have a smother finish and maybe have less effort to remove pins.

[Morpheus]

I was looking more into making pin extractors for sale. I was testing some new pins (male pin) and decided the drill hole for that extractor should be 0.143". These pins have locking fingers that don't compress into the body of the pin so it's a matter of trial and error to find correct sizes. I will order some 4130 rod and see how long it takes me to machine these up. Will also order reamers so the holes have a smother finish and maybe have less effort to remove pins.

I will be one of your first orders if you offer this up for sale! I recently re-pinned my fuel pump and sender connectors and had to cut the connector off. Luckily, britishwiring.com has the 2 and 3 pin connector on their site.

[81dmc]

I recently re-pinned my fuel pump and sender connectors and had to cut the connector off. Luckily, britishwiring.com has the 2 and 3 pin connector on their site.

You should of replaced them with sealed connectors!

I'm going to replace the roof box connectors with 12 and 6 pin deutsch connectors, and eventually, I will work my way into the engine compartment.

[Bitsyncmaster]

You should of replaced them with sealed connectors!

I'm going to replace the roof box connectors with 12 and 6 pin deutsch connectors, and eventually, I will work my way into the engine compartment.

I've only found one type of sealed connector I'm happy with. About the same size as OEM connectors but have solid crimp pins and cost quite a lot. I'm not happy with the other connectors I've tried mostly because the crimp pins are very poor.

[81dmc]

I've only found one type of sealed connector I'm happy with. About the same size as OEM connectors but have solid crimp pins and cost quite a lot. I'm not happy with the other connectors I've tried mostly because the crimp pins are very poor.

I know deutsch connectors have solid nickel and gold pins, however, I ordered stamped pins as I'm going to solder them as well. Anyways, I'm only using these connectors since I'm familiar with them (they are used on Cummins engines).

[Bitsyncmaster]

I know deutsch connectors have solid nickel and gold pins, however, I ordered stamped pins as I'm going to solder them as well. Anyways, I'm only using these connectors since I'm familiar with them (they are used on Cummins engines).

Here is info on the connector I love. I have only used one in my car so far but any new things I add will use this type.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?10885-Ultimate-connector

[81dmc]

Here is info on the connector I love. I have only used one in my car so far but any new things I add will use this type.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?10885-Ultimate-connector


I believe that is a deutsch connector...

Here (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Deutsch-DT-12-Pin-Connector-Kit-16-20-GA-Solid-Contacts-/231792618019?hash=item35f7eaaa23:g:bvwAAOSw1S9WexO T) is one I found on eBay

[Bitsyncmaster]

I believe that is a deutsch connector...

Here (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Deutsch-DT-12-Pin-Connector-Kit-16-20-GA-Solid-Contacts-/231792618019?hash=item35f7eaaa23:g:bvwAAOSw1S9WexO T) is one I found on eBay

Those look nice.

With those solid pins you really need the expensive crimper most people don't have.

[dmruschell]

We were able to swap the wiring harness over this past weekend. One of the tools I bought was perfect for removing the plugs at the top of the door wiring harness, so we removed those plugs and pulled the wires through the door. The people we had talked to said that feeding the harness through the new door would be a real pain, but it wasn't all that bad. We took a straightened out metal coat hanger and fed it through the top of the door into the main compartment of the door. It's sturdy enough that it fed right through the door, but flexible enough that it was able to bend around the angles required. Then, we taped a shoestring to the bottom end of the coat hanger and pulled the shoestring through so that it was accessible on both ends. Then, we duct taped the top end of the wiring harness to the bottom end of the shoestring and pulled the harness through. One thing to watch out for is to not tape the wiring harness into a bundle that is so big that it won't fit through the slot at the top of the door. The wires must be accessible enough to pull them through the slot just a few wires at a time. So, we got it on our second try.

Thanks to everyone who helped out and gave some helpful input on this thread.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I've got four extractors done and four more almost done. I will sell these for $40 shipped to USA locations. Now these will not be guaranteed for replacement if you break it by dropping it or using side forces.

The male pins pull out real easy. The female pins are harder. What you need to do is push the extractor onto the pin while holding the wire of that pin and not holding the connector shell. Remember it's those pointed locking fingers that need to be held off the housing so they don't dig into the plastic.