Valve and timing cover removal

[VIN1498]

Hi Folks! I wanted to remove both valve covers and the timing cover to reseal the motor. I just wanted to check that I can remove the covers without throwing off the cam timing. Are the chain tensioners on the back of the timing cover? I have already removed the exhaust, belts and pulleys. My manual seems a little fuzzy on if I can just unbolt it and swap out the gaskets. Also is anyone using anything more than just a gasket shellac on the fiber gaskets? Trying not to over do it with sealer. Thanks

[sdg3205]

You can remove them safely and easily.

Be cautious removing the crank pulley because the woodruff key will fall into your oil pan if you dont position it "up" before pulley removal. Verify its not upside down right now with the pulley off.

[VIN1498]

Thanks Dave!

I read about that and was prepared. I was able to remove the crankshaft pulley today after hitting it with PB Blaster and heating it to about 400 degrees with the propane torch and then racking it with the impact driver. It was being stubborn until then. I think I will be pulling the pan as well to replace it's gasket. None of this is leaking but it has been on there for at least 25 years now and it is time to replace this stuff. I'm gonna have some questions about the order of operations soon for the amount of things that I hope to do on it. I started with a bad clutch but once the tranny is off it is so easy to get carried away with doing more. I have a new Hersey exhaust to go on and have pulled all the old exhaust studs without even one breaking on me. I must be blessed! Figure I will pull the intake manifold and clean under as is recommended. The ignition components could use a refresh so all this is gonna happen together.

Glad to know tho that the valve and timing gaskets can come off without having to worry about the cam timing.

[DMCMW Dave]

Thanks Dave!

.. I think I will be pulling the pan as well to replace it's gasket. None of this is leaking but it has been on there for at least 25 years now and it is time to replace this stuff. .

35 years.

Don't replace the oil pan gasket. The OEM gaskets NEVER leak, and replacements are never quite as good (the OE gaskets appear to have been asbestos!). The OE gasket is a bear to get off.

[VIN1498]

Good advice thanks! I'm not sure if mine leaks. I don't think it does, I think it is just oil that came down from one of the main seals and ended up on the pan. It may be a bear to remove the gasket, but luckily if it is a culprit there is not much in my way to get to it.

[Morpheus]

A lot of the time the Oil Temp sender on the driver's side of the engine leaks and can look like it's the oil pan.

[81dmc]

A lot of the time the Low Oil Light sender on the driver's side of the engine leaks and can look like it's the oil pan.

:)

[VIN1498]

Mine is leaking and the wire got caught in the AC belt once so I think it is time to replace that too. So the Light sensor is on the Drivers side and the Pressure sensor is on the Passenger side. Got to scare one up.

[Morpheus]

:)

I just re-read it and noticed my goof. LOL.

[FABombjoy]

Mine is leaking and the wire got caught in the AC belt once so I think it is time to replace that too. So the Light sensor is on the Drivers side and the Pressure sensor is on the Passenger side. Got to scare one up.
The new "pressure switch" senders - the one on the drivers side - may leak too. The new replacements are low-quality. Mine did within a year or two. Replacing the O rings in the original may be the way to go rather than buying new.

I'm not sure if there is a published procedure, but I recently took my new-style switch apart and sealed it internally. I thoroughly degreased it, and where the threaded portion passes through the the switch body I added some high-temp RTV (the ultra copper RTV as it was the best I had on-hand). I put it back together and used some vice grips to hold the threaded piece in place while tightening the final lock nut that holds everything together. It's been leak-free since.

I should have taken pics but if you take them apart it should make sense. The OEM switches are a different construction, pics & discussion in this thread:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?11797-Oil-Warning-Sender-Subsitite-with-later-Volvo-V6-sender

[mluder]

On advice from Toby, I put a beat of Permatex Red on my timing and rocker covers. The rest - w-pipe to manifold, etc got copper spray. All the o-rings got silicone grease.

Cheers
Steven

[Morpheus]

The new "pressure switch" senders - the one on the drivers side - may leak too. The new replacements are low-quality. Mine did within a year or two. Replacing the O rings in the original may be the way to go rather than buying new.

I'm not sure if there is a published procedure, but I recently took my new-style switch apart and sealed it internally. I thoroughly degreased it, and where the threaded portion passes through the the switch body I added some high-temp RTV (the ultra copper RTV as it was the best I had on-hand). I put it back together and used some vice grips to hold the threaded piece in place while tightening the final lock nut that holds everything together. It's been leak-free since.

I should have taken pics but if you take them apart it should make sense. The OEM switches are a different construction, pics & discussion in this thread:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?11797-Oil-Warning-Sender-Subsitite-with-later-Volvo-V6-sender

If you contact Rob Grady, he is able to rebuild your OEM sender and seal it properly so you won't have any more issues with it. He fixed mine, and it's been leak-free ever since.

[FABombjoy]

If you contact Rob Grady, he is able to rebuild your OEM sender and seal it properly so you won't have any more issues with it. He fixed mine, and it's been leak-free ever since.
Good alternative for the OP!

(my original sender went into a landfill about a decade ago)

But I think you can fix-up the junky new ones too if that's all you have.