Front wheel

[Spittybug]

I've got a slightly out of round left front wheel and it wobbles at about 60mph. It was the one that got bent when I sheered my lower control arm ball joint a few years back. It was "fixed" and has an impressive number of weights to make it balanced, but alas, it is not perfect.

So, if you have one, I'm interested. I'm in Houston, 77070.

Cash is OK, but I'd prefer to trade for a set of my lower control arm braces. They are $275 a set, so that's a bit more than a wheel, but in the ballpark. Please, no beat up messes. My wheels are beautifully painted and I'm already cringing at one that will be different unless I can get it refurbished......

Thanks.

[hmcelraft]

There are two different kinds of wheels (not color but spokes). Which one do you need? If you still have your OEM wheels they are probably the early wheels, with the more "raised" spokes at the center hub mounting - based on your vin#.

[Spittybug]

There are two different kinds of wheels (not color but spokes). Which one do you need? If you still have your OEM wheels they are probably the early wheels, with the more "raised" spokes at the center hub mounting - based on your vin#.

I believe them to be original. I don't think I've ever seen side by side pictures of old and new to know for sure however.

[hmcelraft]

I believe them to be original. I don't think I've ever seen side by side pictures of old and new to know for sure however.

Take a trip out to DMCH - they can show you the difference. You might be able to see the difference if you do an internet search for "DeLorean wheels" or "DeLorean rims". There are plenty of pictures to look at and I noticed both types were shown. Look at the center spoke hub connections. Early versions - both dark and a silver were raised prominently at the hub mounting area. On the later wheels the spokes were raised only slightly at the hub mounting area.

[refugeefromcalif]

Here's a picture I downloaded from another thread showing the difference.


http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=40980&d=1458680573


George

[Rich W]

There are two different kinds of wheels (not color but spokes). Which one do you need? If you still have your OEM wheels they are probably the early wheels, with the more "raised" spokes at the center hub mounting - based on your vin#.

Dave Swingle did a short write-up (with photos) about a decade ago
regarding the early thinner cast wheels vs. later thicker cast wheels.

http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/wheels.html

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Take a trip out to DMCH - they can show you the difference. You might be able to see the difference if you do an internet search for "DeLorean wheels" or "DeLorean rims". There are plenty of pictures to look at and I noticed both types were shown. Look at the center spoke hub connections. Early versions - both dark and a silver were raised prominently at the hub mounting area. On the later wheels the spokes were raised only slightly at the hub mounting area.

The spokes were cast the same height in relation to the wheel. The hub was thickened to add strength hence the appearance of shorter spokes though their dimensions remained the same.
Rob
Btw my wheel supplier could probably straighten and powder-coat your wheel to look better than new.

[Spittybug]

I would appear to have the older, thinner version.

[Spittybug]

I just took my 2 front wheels to a specialist (not your run of the mill Discount Tire) and had them check them. It's not the wheels......... they were balanced and true; saw it with my own eyes.

So the question now is what could it be? Steering rack was just rebuilt and is nice and tight. New ball joints, new tie rod ends. Bearings nice and tight with no play. Vibration is through the steering wheel at ~55 to 65 mph. I suppose it could be rear wheels, but I highly doubt it would transmit anything through the steering wheel. I'm going to closely examine the rotors and brakes to makes sure I don't have a chunk out or anything silly like that. This is not rotor shudder when braking, this is speed sensitive judder. Odd.

[hmcelraft]

You can feel the rear wheels out of balance in the rear and often in the steering wheel. Usually feels like a "come and go" vibration. You haven't said any thing about the tires or the machine on which the balancing was done. In my experience "an impressive number of weights" means the machine may need calibrated or the wheel is slipping during rotation (clamped improperly). The tire could be faulty or have a flat-spot from storage, etc.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I just took my 2 front wheels to a specialist (not your run of the mill Discount Tire) and had them check them. It's not the wheels......... they were balanced and true; saw it with my own eyes.

So the question now is what could it be? Steering rack was just rebuilt and is nice and tight. New ball joints, new tie rod ends. Bearings nice and tight with no play. Vibration is through the steering wheel at ~55 to 65 mph. I suppose it could be rear wheels, but I highly doubt it would transmit anything through the steering wheel. I'm going to closely examine the rotors and brakes to makes sure I don't have a chunk out or anything silly like that. This is not rotor shudder when braking, this is speed sensitive judder. Odd.

Maybe swap the two rear wheels and road test if things change. I had that 60 MPH vibration and it went away when I installed new SS LCAs.

[Spittybug]

You can feel the rear wheels out of balance in the rear and often in the steering wheel. Usually feels like a "come and go" vibration. You haven't said any thing about the tires or the machine on which the balancing was done. In my experience "an impressive number of weights" means the machine may need calibrated or the wheel is slipping during rotation (clamped improperly). The tire could be faulty or have a flat-spot from storage, etc.


I didn't have the rears checked...looks like I should. The amount of weight was not that great; 3 oz spread over a 5" or so length on the interior of the wheel. He pulled them off before balancing and the machine had him put them back in the same place. I don't know the brand of the machine or anything, but the shop is a wheel restoration shop that has CNC machines, acid baths, a multitude of specialized tools, etc. Not your run of the mill garage. 3 of us eyeballed both wheels/tires spinning and couldn't visually discern any play either. No flats on the tires. The one that appeared as if it *might* have been warped had the tire removed and checked for round/wobble with a micrometer. Basically imperceptible.

FYI, my LCAs are boxed, intact, with new bushings. Nobody that has installed my LCA brace has reported any similar issues, so I can't believe that is involved. I suppose it is possible that by preventing the LCA from migrating backwards (more rigidly than simply using the sway bar) it could perhaps cause some kind of reverberation, but I think that's a stretch. It would also imply that the wheel would be allowed to flex backwards under normal, straight line driving conditions which I'm not sure is a good thing! I've checked brakes, rotors, lugs, all nuts are tight, etc.. If the rears show balanced then maybe I will indeed try removing the braces and checking. Although why would it be happening now and not sooner????

[hmcelraft]

Ok - A couple of other items to check are the alignment. Out of spec Caster especially can cause some issues, shake, pull, etc. The other is wheel bearings. If they have become loose from wear, etc. the wheels can set up a vibration or shake. If you haven't replaced the front wheel bearings in a while that might be a good thing to do.

[Spittybug]

Ok - A couple of other items to check are the alignment. Out of spec Caster especially can cause some issues, shake, pull, etc. The other is wheel bearings. If they have become loose from wear, etc. the wheels can set up a vibration or shake. If you haven't replaced the front wheel bearings in a while that might be a good thing to do.

Just had it aligned... and participated in the process. Caster is good too; that's one of the advantages of the brace. No play whatsoever in the front wheels when I tug/pull. I can't remember if I replaced them a few years back or not, but I can't get any motion. I didn't get to try anything else today but hope to shortly.

[Patrick C]

Owen, years ago I read about this on the DML and the owner actually had an issue with his rear wheel alignment that was somehow being transferred to his steering wheel. Once he had a proper rear wheel alignment, the issue went away.

I suppose you could also have a front wheel hub that is out of balance, but that would be rare.

[dn010]

Have you checked/replaced steering shaft u-joints?

[Spittybug]

Have you checked/replaced steering shaft u-joints?

I have not......do they go bad??

[dn010]

Since 2002, I am on my third set of them if that means anything.

[dn010]

I should add - I'm referring to parts: 100839 & 100840. If you try to find them from DMCH they're NLA but they are replaced with a part 100840SS.

Pretty simple to see if there is slop in these, pull the panel over the brake master cylinder and get a buddy to slightly turn the wheel back and forth while you look at the assembly. If they're bad you'll see the slop in the joints, the steering shaft turning but the rack&pinion shaft not moving or moving much less compared to the rest of the pieces. If you question it then take the lower joint out and test it by hand.

I'm sure location is a factor in these wearing out; Driving on upstate NY roads for years I'm sure contributed to some heavy wear on mine, hence 3 sets of these. Now in Florida on highways I'm sure they will last much longer but I'd still check them every now and then. I did have DMCH's 1st generation "updated" joints in the car back when they were offered and while they were much better than stock, those still failed after time. This newest stainless one looks better than their previous one but they're pretty steep at almost $400 so they had better last a long time.

[Spittybug]

Since 2002, I am on my third set of them if that means anything.

Looks like something else to go check.... thanks.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Looks like something else to go check.... thanks.

If you need the complete shaft with U joints, I have the one I took off my car when I installed Bill's "spec 01" steering.

[PJ Grady Inc.]

I have not......do they go bad??
It's easy to check them for free play as they do wear out. Usually however worn stg joints tend to mask vibration rather than cause it. As suggested perhaps it's time to check the rear alignment and wheel balance etc. as it sounds like you've gone through the whole front end once already. Did the alignment shop check the rear specs too as you normally start with the rear when performing a four wheel alignment?
Rob

[Spittybug]

While I may indeed go forward with the steering column upgrade, mine would appear to be in good shape. No looseness or play observable. I had the wife behind the wheel while I observed. Had her do small movements and big ones. Tight.

Rob, I'll dig up the last alignment numbers, but IIRC they were pretty close to spec. I've also eyeballed the TABs and shims. Rust free, no movement in shims.... look good.

[Spittybug]

:mallet: Never dismiss the obvious.

I finally got around to taking the rear wheels for balancing today. D'oh! One of them was delaminating or something to that effect.... coming apart inside. Age. It is apparent on the balancing machine as it looks like a 'wave' in the tread. A previous balancing had put a fair amount of weight on the rim to compensate for this, but either it got worse or the first guy was an idiot (best bet). In any case, the tires were old (but little wear) so I bought new ones all around. The amount of balancing weights on all 4 was only an ounce or two, so that was reassuring. I brought them home, put them on the car and was about to take it for a test drive when I remembered that I don't have a fuel sender in the tank until my replacement one arrives. A test drive will need to wait a couple of days but I am VERY confident that the problem has been identified and corrected.

[Spittybug]

Smooth as butta !!!!!!!! Now to address the crack in the louvers that happened when the top somehow got pinched under the T panel... UGH>