Advice on replacing output shaft seals

[jawn101]

I'm pretty sure my transmission is leaking slowly from the output shafts, as there's a hell of an oil-and-dirt mess around them and it's the only thing I can figure can leak in that area. I bought Hervey's double-lip seals (which came with some random large o-ring seal that I haven't quite figured out what to do with yet) but would like some advice on installing these seals.

I've heard two different opinions - one says to drain the trans, pull the half-shafts, pull the old seal, and tap the new one in place. Another trusted source says the only way to do it is to pull the lump, separate the casing, and put them in from inside. The workshop manual seems to support the installation from outside method, and even mentions a tool made to do it. When we did my crankshaft main seal recently, we just used a cut off piece of roll cage tubing with a crossbrace welded to it and smacked it with a rubber mallet.

Anyone have any insight? What's the extra thin O-ring for in the Special T kit? What's the right way to get these seals installed?

[sean]

Large o ring is for the adjustment nut, 26, which does not have to come off to replace the lip seals so leave it be. If you don't drain some of the oil it will pour out when you remove the seal, provided you have ample oil in there to begin with. Drop the drive shafts, drive out the flange pins, pull the flanges, pull the old seals and reverse to compete making sure you tap the new seal in evenly. Before draining the oil make sure you can remove the fill plug.

http://www.delorean.com/store/images/CATEGORY/large/4-1-1.gif

[DMCMW Dave]

If the wear surfaces on the flanges are rusty/pitted, it will still leak. Either replace or sleeve the flanges.

[jawn101]

If the wear surfaces on the flanges are rusty/pitted, it will still leak. Either replace or sleeve the flanges.

Forgive the noob question then... which # are the flange pins? Is there only one adjustment nut or is there one on each side? I got 2 lip seals but 1 large o-ring.

What would you guys rate the difficulty of this job at on the swear-o-meter? :) Any special tools required?

**EDIT** I found the flange information in the drive axles section. Doesn't look too terribly hard to remove or seem like any special tools are needed. I also haven't seen any rust anywhere on this car - period. So I am hoping that trend will continue in the flanges, but if I get in there and they're bad I won't hesitate to order new ones.

Any recommendations on what kind of gear oil to use in here? I've also heard differing opinions on this because of the nature of the gearing in this transmission.

[sean]

Only one diff nut. Pins are 1, flanges are 2. Dave is so right, get a pair of sleeved or new flanges. Last time I did it he sent me a set already sleeved and I sent him he old pair back. Scale of 1-10, 5. A slide hammer with a seal puller on it is what I use, you just have to be certain you pull the seal not anything else and also make sure you don't scratch the wall the seal press into.
http://www.delorean.com/store/images/CATEGORY/large/4-7-0.gif

[DMC5180]

Make when drive out the pins, they are in the clear on the out going side. Also, if you reuse the Flanges make an quick reference alignment mark across the flange and shaft end, The flanges only fit ONE way.

[DMCMW Dave]

Make when drive out the pins, they are in the clear on the out going side. .

THIS IS REALLY IMPORTANT. If you drive the pin out of the flange and lock it against the transmission body, you'll discover it isn't out far enough to pull off the flange, and there is no good way to drive it back in enough to rotate the flange. You'll have a bad day from that point forward. . . .

[DMCMW Dave]

Any recommendations on what kind of gear oil to use in here? I've also heard differing opinions on this because of the nature of the gearing in this transmission.

Any 75W90 or 80W90 is fine. You'll get all kinds of recommendations on synthetic but I've never seen it make a difference.

RedLine has alternately recommended 75W90NS and MTL if you want something expensive. But I don't think you need it.


BTW - it's also a good idea to replace the 2 o-rings on the axle stubs. #1 on this page:
http://www.delorean.com/store/c-381-4-1-3-final-drive.aspx

[jawn101]

THIS IS REALLY IMPORTANT. If you drive the pin out of the flange and lock it against the transmission body, you'll discover it isn't out far enough to pull off the flange, and there is no good way to drive it back in enough to rotate the flange. You'll have a bad day from that point forward. . . .

Thanks for that tip guys. Knowing me, I would have realized it too late and spent the next week trying to figure it out with a blowtorch :)

[jawn101]

Any 75W90 or 80W90 is fine. You'll get all kinds of recommendations on synthetic but I've never seen it make a difference.

RedLine has alternately recommended 75W90NS and MTL if you want something expensive. But I don't think you need it.


BTW - it's also a good idea to replace the 2 o-rings on the axle stubs. #1 on this page:
http://www.delorean.com/store/c-381-4-1-3-final-drive.aspx

"While you're in there" strikes again... :) Anything else while I'm planning?