annoying buzzer

[jfirios]

Does anyone know how to turn off that annoying buzzer when you start the car? It is like my old 280z buzzer.

[sean]

Disconnect this guy under the dash:
http://www.delorean.com/store/images/PRODUCT/medium/100464.jpg
4333

[ramblinmike]

Does anyone know how to turn off that annoying buzzer when you start the car? It is like my old 280z buzzer.

Look on the triangular flat piece of metal attached to the steering column under the dash. The buzzer looks like a small speaker. Pull the wires and silence. I personally like the 1980's buzzer!


Look on the triangular flat piece of metal attached to the steering column under the dash. The buzzer looks like a small speaker. Pull the wires and silence. I personally like the 1980's buzzer!

Yeah - that thing. :)

[Chris 16409]

-Edit, everyone beat me to the punch- You can disconnect the plug that goes to the buzzer unit. It's under the dash. This will turn the buzzer off completely. Alternatively, if you just want it to buzz to remind you to fasten your seat belt, then you can just unplug the buzzer door switch (plunger). On my car, the buzzer was disconnected, and the seat belt light would never come on. I think the buzzer may be required for the light to come on. I like to see the seat belt light when I start the car. I've attached a picture of the location for reference.

[AdmiralSenn]

You may want to consider installing a chime unit from another car. It's pretty easy to wire in a GM chime module - I used one from a Cadillac that's a LOT less annoying and even has different speeds for different alarms.

[Chris 16409]

You may want to consider installing a chime unit from another car. It's pretty easy to wire in a GM chime module - I used one from a Cadillac that's a LOT less annoying and even has different speeds for different alarms.

The Cadillac buzzer mod was talked about on the .com forum. What kind of wiring is required?

[jfirios]

I love this site, you guys are awesome. Thanks.

[john 05141]

I'd like another buzzer as well. Modern cars have the more classy "bling-bling" types.

I'm at the other side of the atlantic, so I can not just walk into any pep-boys type store for a cadillac buzzer... "you want what???:ehh:"

Cadillac is driving around here also, but if I wan ta buzzer, they'll probably charge me half the price of a new car.
Anyone has a good European car alternative?

I guess rewiring is necessary no matter which brand buzzer.

John

[WelmoedJ]

I went to a junk yard and bought myself a couple of GM chimers for Pontiac.
In my first (model 81, aug 81 ) car this worked nicely, but the same wiring now has difficulties chiming at the intended signals in the model 82 (nov 81) car.

I have some diagrams and changes made to it, but my guess is there's something different in the car's as it only chimes once when the car starts, not when the key is in the IGN lokck (that's when it started chiming in the original setup).

So I'm also interested in seeing the diagram of the Cadillac chimer version.

[AdmiralSenn]

This is the type you want: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1995-Seville-SLS-Chime-Module-Pt-3539049-93-97-616-/260541074354?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3ca9754bb2

Picture attached for when this thread comes up someday and that auction is gone. They go for ~$20-25 on ebay usually.

I do have a Cadillac wiring diagram that covers the door chime module, also attached - see page 51. This diagram *SHOULD* be the same for all GM units that look like the one above - boxy, speaker holes, seven pins. I think Welmoed had a picture of how he wired his that's also very helpful. Reading the diagram I provided, the pins are labeled A1-D1 and A2-D2. The pins ending in one are the for the group of three pins, the other four are for the other strip - there is no pin D1. If someone wants to do this I can go get my workshop journal where I mapped out what each pin does. The wiring isn't hard, it's just seven pins and I don't think I used all of them. A few female spade terminals and tapping them into the original connections somehow - maybe an hour's work tops.

It's a lot nicer than the factory unit. There may be a way to wire in a headlight switch warning as well, I believe the unit supports it.

As far as hooking it up, Welmoed actually made a little card that fits into the buzzer connector. I wasn't quite as neat about it and scotch-lok'd my leads into the appropriate wires. If you do this I recommend adding a connector of some kind so you can remove the unit later if you need to - I have a GM Weatherpak kit that I used to provide a quick disconnect option.

I may have a video of the module in action as well, I'll see if I can find it.

EDIT: Welmoed, I can't find that diagram you posted (lost in the DMCTalk sea), but if you still have it I think it'd be a huge help for reference on this project.

[jfirios]

personally I like the quiet cars. :) I removed the annoying door buzzer from my last custom car and will never go back to it :)

[WelmoedJ]

As far as hooking it up, Welmoed actually made a little card that fits into the buzzer connector.

EDIT: Welmoed, I can't find that diagram you posted (lost in the DMCTalk sea), but if you still have it I think it'd be a huge help for reference on this project.

I'm going to look for both in my archives.
Need to find the belonging pictures (texts have already been retrieved).

[AdmiralSenn]

Here we go:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AhsZg__9oAc

I didn't realize until I heard it on my desktop speakers, but the chime is kind of hard to hear. Apologies to everyone that has to listen to me talk at super loud volume to hear the chime. And for the awful camera work.

Anyway, it sounds a MILLION times nicer than the "dying goat being squeezed through a harmonica" sound of the OEM chime. Well worth the effort to install it.

[Patrick C]

If someone wants to do this I can go get my workshop journal where I mapped out what each pin does.

Please do! Just bought a buzzer to do this project!

[Ozzie]

+1.
Sweet little mod. Looking forward to you notes on this.

[AdmiralSenn]

Working on a compiled diagram with everything in it - my notes are a little confusing as I revised them several times while trying to map out each pin. I'll have to crawl in with a flashlight and check my work. Unfortunately I can't just check the factory diagram to match colors as some of them I didn't use and others I hooked up a little differently than you might expect - for instance I think I tapped my 12V off the steering column.

I'll try to post it tonight or tomorrow.

[WelmoedJ]

I live up to my previous promise to give info on the chimer I used.
As I couldn't find the original pictures I have taken new ones.
Recently I also acquired the factory manuals for the Pontiac Trans Sport.
From that I recreated a new diagram so all connections can be made correctly.

The card edge connector is only a rough model as I have no equipment to make a nice clean printed circuit board.
However it works.

One issue remains to be done:
I haven't had the time to connect the lights-on signal.
From the DeLorean diagram I conclude it has to be the red/orange wire, but I may be wrong in that assumption.

Here are the pictures and the diagram:
44584455445744594456

[AdmiralSenn]

Ugh. Okay, Welmoed beat me to it and his diagram is essentially identical to mine anyway.

I can't actually finish this because in the process of digging out the chime box, a few of the leads came loose and I can't see which ones are which. It'll have to wait until my new battery cables get here and I can ring out each wire again.

I do know my setup is slightly different from his (I think I'm using the headlight pin for one of the other alarms) but his diagram should work for all similar GM modules.

[Ozzie]

Thanks for the details!
I love the idea of a board to plug into the exiting connector. Where can you find that type and size contact board? what is the conductor spacing required?

[WelmoedJ]

Thanks for the details!
I love the idea of a board to plug into the exiting connector. Where can you find that type and size contact board? what is the conductor spacing required?

I used a circuit board with nothing (except the copper) on it.
After having measures the pin distances, I ground off the non necessary copper (ref: no way to do it differently as I don't have the tools for that).
Thereafter I drilled the holes for the wires.

That's all.

If you haven't the wire colours (DeLorean wiring diagram):
1 - Purple (12V from )
2 - Purple/Blue (from door switch)
3 - Black/Purple (from seat belt switch)
4 - Yellow/Purple (from seat belt warning light)
5 - black (GND)
6 - White/Red (from IGN lock)

[Ozzie]

Thanks for all the details Welmoed.

I now have the GM buzzer (it's bigger than it looks in pictures).
I just need to figure out a plug in solution, I like what you did with circuit board, I'll see what our local Radio Shack has that can accommodate.

Question:
As you pointed out, the unused terminal (#31) on the GM buzzer is an input for a "Lights On" chime. Could I just tap into the "red/orange wire" from the light switch, or do I need to use a relay for that?

[Felix_29]

Not sure if anyone mentioned. I find that if I just buckle up before starting the car the buzzer won't even make a noise.

[DMC5180]

Thanks for all the details Welmoed.

I just need to figure out a plug in solution, I like what you did with circuit board, I'll see what our local Radio Shack has that can accommodate.

Question:
As you pointed out, the unused terminal (#31) on the GM buzzer is an input for a "Lights On" chime. Could I just tap into the "red/orange wire" from the light switch, or do I need to use a relay for that?

:thinkin:Hey Ozzie,

I'd bet You and I know someone :biggrin: with ability to have a small PCB board made the 6 traces and even populate the adapter wires. I think this would be an easy seller with very little assembly time Six solder points and six wire crimps. I know I'd buy a plug-n-play adapter harness from the master. ooops did I say that.:devil:

As for the lights on chime function, I'm sure a simple 12V source (PARK lights) is all thats needed. No need for a relay. But if you happen to still use the auto off function of the First GEN DMCH headlight switch I don't see the need. Mine works like a champ.


Btw, does the seat belt chime work on a timer (10 sec or so)? Does the Passenger belt need to be plugged in to kill the chime or is that just a function of the Driver side?

[Ozzie]

Dennis, I think I'm a bit synch -ed with your idea of such a seller.

...but I'll keep looking for alternatives anyway.

[DMC5180]

Btw, if your perusing the Salvage yards for chimer. Cut the Wire harness plug off that goes with it and as much wire as you can get. You can cut it shorter later as needed. Nothing like having the factor plug to go with the unit.

[Ozzie]

Btw, if your perusing the Salvage yards for chimer. Cut the Wire harness plug off that goes with it and as much wire as you can get. You can cut it shorter later as needed. Nothing like having the factor plug to go with the unit.

Yeah, I thought that too. Thing is, these plug into a one piece terminal block, that holds two or three other relays as well. I think Welmoed's solution is the best, spade connectors to wires, to a small PWB.

[WelmoedJ]

Ozzie,

It's not very difficult to just cut and grind a piece of circuit board to fit your needs.
You also don't have to put a relay in between the connection chimer(31)-D(red/orange).

There's some things you need to check (I found that):
- chimer(pin '38') needs power from the IGN switch(RUN);
- IGN key needs to make ground;

All my fuctions worked (on a parked car).
However once I ran the engine:
- only the door switch/key in IGN circuit worked correctly;
- seat belt fastened kept the warning light ON (should be off);
- Lights ON kept the alarm go off;

With engine not running:
- door closed and key in IGN (off) made the chimer work (Key signal probably not working correctly).

My assumption is that the IGN lock in OFF position still powers the IGN switch input to the module.
Have to look at that as it also could be wiring is not conform the diagram and therefore my setup may be wrong.

I'll keep you informed.

Welmoed.

[jawn101]

I have an interesting issue with mine. I haven't had a buzzer since the day I bought the car and just assumed it was removed by a PO. The other day I had my binnacle out to do my LED conversion and discovered that not only is the buzzer there, it's connected. It just doesn't work. I replaced the switch in the driver's side door when I first got the car since I didn't know what it did yet. My seatbelt and door ajar lights work flawlessly. I'd like to at least know the buzzer works before I make the decision to remove it :)

Do these units go bad? Aren't they just piezo buzzers? Those are pretty infallible... Anyone have one they removed they don't want anymore? :)

[AdmiralSenn]

I have my old one if you want it. I'll have to dig it out though. It worked great, it just sounds terrible because of the design.

[jawn101]

I have my old one if you want it. I'll have to dig it out though. It worked great, it just sounds terrible because of the design.

I sent ya a PM, thanks for the offer :)

[ramblinmike]

Do these units go bad? Aren't they just piezo buzzers? Those are pretty infallible... Anyone have one they removed they don't want anymore? :)
They do go bad. Mine was bad on 910. Didn't have any idea what is was supposed to sound like or have the seatbelt light until I found an identical unit in the junkyard. It was on an early '80s Jaguar if anyone is interested.

[WelmoedJ]

I have an interesting issue with mine. I haven't had a buzzer since the day I bought the car and just assumed it was removed by a PO. The other day I had my binnacle out to do my LED conversion and discovered that not only is the buzzer there, it's connected. It just doesn't work. I replaced the switch in the driver's side door when I first got the car since I didn't know what it did yet. My seatbelt and door ajar lights work flawlessly. I'd like to at least know the buzzer works before I make the decision to remove it :)

Do these units go bad? Aren't they just piezo buzzers? Those are pretty infallible... Anyone have one they removed they don't want anymore? :)

The chimer PDF I sent with my info on how to swap buzzer for chimer has the pin info to the D buzzer plug. Use that to find the correct wires.
The lower door switch is intended for the buzzer signal.
You may have swapped wires from the two looms going to the door but that should still work.
Use a MM to check if the connection is made.

Pins on the buzzer plug are:
1 - Power 12V (Purple)
2 - door switch (Purple/Blue)
3 - seat belt switch (Black/Purple)
4 - seat belt warning light (Yellow/Purple)
5 - GND
6 - IGN lock while running (White/Red)

[Bitsyncmaster]

Now look what you guys have done.:screwy:

I had to pull my unit apart and look at it. Tricky to open the unit. The bottom is glued to the case. Circuit board has five transistors and a bunch of caps and resistors. So my guess is that noise maker is some sort of speaker made with metal.

The connector has six 0.100" wide fingers on one side with a 0.150" spacing. There is a plastic spacer to make the board 0.137" thick.

[WelmoedJ]

Now look what you guys have done.:screwy:

I had to pull my unit apart and look at it. Tricky to open the unit. The bottom is glued to the case. Circuit board has five transistors and a bunch of caps and resistors. So my guess is that noise maker is some sort of speaker made with metal.

The connector has six 0.100" wide fingers on one side with a 0.150" spacing. There is a plastic spacer to make the board 0.137" thick.

We awoke your curiosity?..... Is that good or bad? :cool1:

[Bitsyncmaster]

We awoke your curiosity?..... Is that good or bad? :cool1:

It's bad in keeping my inventory built up.

What I would do if installing the GM buzzer would be just cut the old connector off our harness and wire to wire to the GM mating connector.

[WelmoedJ]

It's bad in keeping my inventory built up.

What I would do if installing the GM buzzer would be just cut the old connector off our harness and wire to wire to the GM mating connector.

GM has several different connector types (look at the Cadillac and Pontiac chimers).
Those of my Pontiac have no separate "foot" (connector).
The connector is mounted in a kind of block and hard to take out.
Such a big connector board for several relays and other things probably is used in more than one car model by GM and perhaps other manufacturers.

That's why I took the time to make an adaptor for the original buzzer card edge connector.
You even don't have to glue the chimer some place as for this model it is a kind of drop-in between body and trunk cable.

[Ozzie]

Now look what you guys have done.:screwy:


LOL. I blame Sean and Welmoed.




The connector has six 0.100" wide fingers on one side with a 0.150" spacing. There is a plastic spacer to make the board 0.137" thick.
Ooooh. Thanks for those specs.

[WelmoedJ]

LOL. I blame Sean and Welmoed.




Ooooh. Thanks for those specs.

Ozzie,

If you're going to make the card edge, put one piece behind the other approx. 3/4 of an inch to have the same thickness as the original buzzer card edge.
Otherwise it may drop out of the card edge cable end (spring pressure not sufficient with one circuit board).

[Ozzie]

Ozzie,

If you're going to make the card edge, put one piece behind the other approx. 3/4 of an inch to have the same thickness as the original buzzer card edge.
Otherwise it may drop out of the card edge cable end (spring pressure not sufficient with one circuit board).

Not sure if I will yet, but thanks.



LOL. I blame Sean and Welmoed.

Ooops, mistake, should have stated Welmoed and Adam; they started all this. :D

[sean]

Ooops, mistake, should have stated Welmoed and Adam; they started all this. :D

It's ok, im getting used to getting blamed for everything around here :D

[Bitsyncmaster]

You could also find a six pin connector pair and solder one end to the new unit and the other end to our harness. But do you really ever need to remove it again?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Well I destroyed my buzzer unit. Curiosity killed it.:ohcrap: The buzzer is actually a speaker type of setup with two coils, transistor, caps and resistors all in that round metal cylinder. So it must be an oscillator driving the metal top like a speaker.

Edit:

By the way....there was one broken solder joint on the unit PCB.

[AdmiralSenn]

You could also find a six pin connector pair and solder one end to the new unit and the other end to our harness. But do you really ever need to remove it again?

I actually did this, but had to also use a second 2-pin connector as my unit has seven pins and at the time I thought I needed all of them. Might still need all of them if/when I decide to try hooking up the headlight alarm.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I bought a GM buzzer (chime) unit on Ebay. There are lots of different types so this is just a unit to play with.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I can't stop thinking about this. My ideas are to have a digital voice message recorded for many warnings.

1) Engine over heat
2) Alternator failure
3) Lights left on
4) Door ajar
5) Key left in

The message would play 3 times and then stop. Download your own messages. Get celebrities to record some message? Some sexy female voice?

I see a voice kit that can save 6 messages for sale. So anyone can try to implement this idea.

[jawn101]

I can't stop thinking about this. My ideas are to have a digital voice message recorded for many warnings.

1) Engine over heat
2) Alternator failure
3) Lights left on
4) Door ajar
5) Key left in

The message would play 3 times and then stop. Download your own messages. Get celebrities to record some message? Some sexy female voice?

I see a voice kit that can save 6 messages for sale. So anyone can try to implement this idea.

Next up: who can find Christopher Lloyd for the voice-over task? I'd pay good money for this module if Dave builds it and Doc records the warnings :)

"DAMMIT, MARTY! IF YOU DON'T FASTEN YOUR SEATBELT THE LIBYANS WILL GET YOU!"

[kajcienski]

Call me crazy, but I love the "annoying" buzzer sound... ;)

[Patrick C]

Installed the Cadillac door buzzer in mine the other day. Sounds SO MUCH BETTER than the old one. Thanks for posting up the wiring schematics and auction link!

[Bitsyncmaster]

Got my GM "buzzer". The connector looks the same as Welmoed's so I may just use his wiring and see if it works. Mine is a black box. To lazy to open the box up to check connections.

[WelmoedJ]

Got my GM "buzzer". The connector looks the same as Welmoed's so I may just use his wiring and see if it works. Mine is a black box. To lazy to open the box up to check connections.

Should work, GM uses about the same pinout om many of their models.

Check if your car powers buzzer connector pin 6 while engine runs.
Otherwise you may have a chimer tat works all the time :(

Better still, check all buzzer connections to produce the signal according to the diagram before proceeding with the conenction of the chimer (Dave, this probably is superfluous advice).

[Bitsyncmaster]

I think the pin out was the same as Welmoed's. But I don't want a buzzer that does not turn itself off after warning the user. I ended up just using the OEM PC board as my connector. I removed components and cut the board to solder the wires on the board.

I'm putting this project aside for now. I did order a sound recording card from Australia and will wait till it arrives. A buzzer would be fine so it alerts the user to look for what is wrong. But the sound card will tell them what's wrong. My number one priority is to alert for a failed alternator which mostly is caused by a broken fan belt. Then you want to pull off the road so you do not overheat the engine. Then would be the lights on warning. I don't see the need for KEY IN, SEAT BELTS, DOOR AJAR warnings. I only lock my doors with the key anyway. I always fasten my seatbelt and lock my doors.

Of course the warnings would only sound a few times and then not repeat so I could work on the car without the annoying warnings.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Anyone know what year that the buzzers turned into chimes for GM?
Also, is any 7-pin chime ok to adapt to the Delorean?
Ebay is picked clean of low-price Caddy versions right now.....

[Ozzie]

Started up the D today (started up 3 weeks from last start, woohoo), and I think my seat belt light/buzzer connection is disengaged - as this thread made me think about it.

After the car was started, and seat belt was not buckled in, and I didn't see the dash indicator light up for the seat belt warning. Buzzer was ...buzzing the whole time, but because the door was open.

So....
What is the stock functionality of the seat belt dash light and buzzer?
Does the light stay on until the seat belt is buckled?
Does the buzzer stay on even if door is closed, if the seat belt is not buckled in?
Or is the seat belt unbuckled only affect the dash light?

[Bitsyncmaster]

After the car was started, and seat belt was not buckled in, and I didn't see the dash indicator light up for the seat belt warning. Buzzer was ...buzzing the whole time, but because the door was open.

So....
What is the stock functionality of the seat belt dash light and buzzer?
Does the light stay on until the seat belt is buckled?
Does the buzzer stay on even if door is closed, if the seat belt is not buckled in?
Or is the seat belt unbuckled only affect the dash light?

This is a good question. Since my old buzzer had a broken solder joint (and I destroyed it) I never knew the designed operation of the stock buzzer.

[WelmoedJ]

Since my old buzzer had a broken solder joint (and I destroyed it) I never knew the designed operation of the stock buzzer.

Dave,

If it's helpful to you I can send you my working buzzer.
Just tell me if you want it.

Welmoed.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Dave,

If it's helpful to you I can send you my working buzzer.
Just tell me if you want it.

Welmoed.

Thanks but I will be designing new logic anyway. This project is on my list but has lower priority than other things right now.

[DMC5180]

This is a good question. Since my old buzzer had a broken solder joint (and I destroyed it) I never knew the designed operation of the stock buzzer.

I fried my buzzer several years ago too.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Buzzers are so common to find on Ebay because most people hate them and just remove them.

[jawn101]

I just installed a functioning buzzer (thanks to AdmiralSenn) in 2100 for the first time since I've owned her. Why didn't anyone tell me it was so annoying? ;-)

[DMC5180]

I just installed a functioning buzzer (thanks to AdmiralSenn) in 2100 for the first time since I've owned her. Why didn't anyone tell me it was so annoying? ;-)

Hence the title of this thread.:hysterical:

[jawn101]

Hence the title of this thread.:hysterical:

Well I'll be jiggered.... ;-)

[WelmoedJ]

Guys,

My chimer is working.
I checked with Bitsyncmaster some indistinctnesses in the wiring diagram.

From this info exchange I learned that the white/red wire to the buzzer connector is not attached to the right source.
This wire has to be connected to the white wire that leads to the main relay.

The white connector in the loom between IGN lock and main loom (down deep near the pedals) has two white/red wires at the pedal side of the connector. One is for the buzzer and is a bit thinner than the other leading to the main relay.

The easiest way to connect the white/red buzzer wire to the white wire is cut it near the white connector (approx 1.5-2 inch from it?) and splice it into the white wire.

Some cars may have the correct wiring and in this case you don't need to cut and splice.

If you want me to do so, I can make a write-up with pictures for the general diagram section. Let me know.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Got my voice card. Pretty nice unit but the bandwidth is low. I can up the bandwidth but that shortens the playback times. Most anybody could use this card to replace their buzzer with some minor circuit changes.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I found a text to speech web site http://cepstral.com/demos/ . There are other sites that I need to play with. If anyone wants to play with these and get a nice sounding voice, please do.

I'm looking for short warnings (3.75 seconds if I use 8 warnings) (7.5 seconds if I use 4 warnings).

1) Alternator Failure
2) Headlights
3) Key In
4) Fasten Seat Belt
5) Door Ajar
etc.

I'm really only concerned with the Alternator failure so I know instantly I need to pull off the road and check the belt. Headlights are also good so you don't run your battery down. I only use my key to lock my doors, always fasten my seat belt and would see the door ajar light.

[WelmoedJ]

I can think of one other, high priority, warning: cooling system failure (fans, temperature and if possible loss of pressure?)

[Bitsyncmaster]

I can think of one other, high priority, warning: cooling system failure (fans, temperature and if possible loss of pressure?)

Anything can be done. Just want to keep the wiring changes minimal.

[robvanderveer]

Somebody told me that farrar has a radio voice...

[Bitsyncmaster]

Somebody told me that farrar has a radio voice...

I can use real voice files. Can anyone do celebrities or a sexy female voice?

[robvanderveer]

I can use real voice files. Can anyone do celebrities or a sexy female voice?

With some proper software I should be able to come up with something that sounds like Dr. Steven Hawkin, but i haven't got the accent down yet. :umm:

[Farrar]

I'm looking for short warnings (3.75 seconds if I use 8 warnings) (7.5 seconds if I use 4 warnings).

I have a vocal booth at my apartment. Want me to just record these warnings for you? That way you will have a real voice.

Farrar

[Farrar]

Somebody told me that farrar has a radio voice...

Ah, I didn't see that earlier. Indeed, I work in radio.

You can click here (http://www.publicbroadcasting.net/wwno/ppr/wwno.pls) between 9am and 2pm Central time Monday through Friday to listen and find out if I suit your needs. (I talk in between the pieces of music, so you may have to wait a few minutes.)

Farrar

[Bitsyncmaster]

I have a vocal booth at my apartment. Want me to just record these warnings for you? That way you will have a real voice.

Farrar

That would be great. Add any other warnings you can think of.

[Farrar]

I can't think of any others.

Thoughts on how they should be worded? e.g. "Your alternator has failed" versus "Warning: alternator failure."

Farrar

[Bitsyncmaster]

I can't think of any others.

Thoughts on how they should be worded? e.g. "Your alternator has failed" versus "Warning: alternator failure."

Farrar

I only plan on four messages so that would be about 7.5 seconds for each. I will have it repeat 3 times with a time delay between. So you can easily fit a sentence in that time.

I kind of like the "Warning: alternator failure".

[Jonathan]

Question on the original style buzzer:

My door plungers (all 3) were unplugged when I got the car. So was the wiper delay module (it had the connectors plugged directly together instead of into the board). I eventually realized I had no wiper delay and plugged the board back in. Wiper delay works. Good. When I recently tried again to get my door lights/plungers working, this newly discovered buzzer of mine comes on when I connect the leads on the door plunger and it won't shut off.

What normally tells this buzzer to shut off? Is it when the door closes and the plunger gets pressed in? I tried this and there was no immediate change. Is there a delay built in to some amount of time after the door closes? Or is it tied to the seatbelt being plugged in? I tried plugging the seatbelt in and it still buzzed.

What's the deal here?

[DMC5180]

I'm really only concerned with the Alternator failure so I know instantly I need to pull off the road and check the belt.

Wouldn't this be instantly defined by the Batt/Charge light in your face. Too me the audible warnings should only be for things that don't have their own warning indication.

This reminds of the 86 chrysler Lebaron Turbo that had a digitized voice warning system. I recall getting the car one day turning the key to on. It ran through system checks and then says "your washer fluid is low" (low tech computer voice)

Do you remember the Talking Coca Cola vending machines in the early eighties? The First Time I heard one I thought it was kind cool. After a few times of using one it just became annoying. I remember the phases to this day.

You walk near the machine waking it up. " Welcome to the Coca Cola talking vending machine" You put in Money "Thank you for choosing the Coca Cola talking vending machine, make a selection please" You make your choice and it drops out. Then a moment later " Don't forget your change"

Needless to say they weren't around very long.

[Farrar]

I kind of like the "Warning: alternator failure".

OK, I will go that route and record the voice cuts when I get home tonight.

Farrar

[DMC5180]

OK, I will go that route and record the voice cuts when I get home tonight.

Farrar

Farrar, No offense too you, But I'd Rather here a sexy female Voice :biggrin:

[Bitsyncmaster]

Wouldn't this be instantly defined by the Batt/Charge light in your face. Too me the audible warnings should only be for things that don't have their own warning indication.

This reminds of the 86 chrysler Lebaron Turbo that had a digitized voice warning system. I recall getting the car one day turning the key to on. It ran through system checks and then says "your washer fluid is low" (low tech computer voice)

Do you remember the Talking Coca Cola vending machines in the early eighties? The First Time I heard one I thought it was kind cool. After a few times of using one it just became annoying. I remember the phases to this day.

You walk near the machine waking it up. " Welcome to the Coca Cola talking vending machine" You put in Money "Thank you for choosing the Coca Cola talking vending machine, make a selection please" You make your choice and it drops out. Then a moment later " Don't forget your change"

Needless to say they weren't around very long.

I don't scan my instruments like I should (I'm a pilot to boot). So that warning may save a few seconds which could mean the difference between pulling over safely without major engine damage.

[Farrar]

Fixed this for you:


Farrar, No offense to you, But I'd Rather hear a sexy female Voice :biggrin:

And how often will you be driving Dave's car?

Farrar

[DMC5180]

HAHA

I was assuming Dave might expand to more than just a one - off unit for his own personal use and I was j/k about the Sexy voice part.

[dvonk]

Farrar, No offense too you, But I'd Rather hear a sexy female Voice

am i the only one who has the voice of the onboard computer from Star Trek in mind? :biggrin:

too bad Majel Barrett-Roddenberry (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Majel_Barrett) died in 2008.

[jawn101]

am i the only one who has the voice of the onboard computer from Star Trek in mind? :biggrin:

too bad Majel Barrett-Roddenberry (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Majel_Barrett) died in 2008.

OMG, I'd pay for that.

[dvonk]

hell yes.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I've got great audio quality. Using a larger speaker than the 2.25" inch one I was using made a big difference. But I changed a few capacitors to reduce base distortion also. I recorded a song off a CD onto one channel and it sounds almost a good as AM radio.

Now I would put a micro on the unit so I can select the channel according to some logic of inputs. The micro would repeat the voice warning three times and then shut off. It would also power down the unit so it draws no power when the car is off. I would probably power the unit up with the key turned to on. You also need to synchronize some warnings after the engine is turned off and the door is opened.

This is a low priority project and I have not decided if it will be just one prototype or if I will make a PCB for it.

[DMC5180]

I've got great audio quality. Using a larger speaker than the 2.25" inch one I was using made a big difference.

Is it theoretically possible to Parallel tap into the Left Front speaker for audio? Or, would you have issues in the event the radio was turned on?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Is it theoretically possible to Parallel tap into the Left Front speaker for audio? Or, would you have issues in the event the radio was turned on?

Good idea but I would need a switch to turn off the radio if it needs the speaker. I will have to think about it a few days.

[David T]

There are a lot of great sounds that could be used from the BTTF The Pinball. It uses digital sound burnt onto a chip.
David Teitelbaum

[Ron]

Good idea but I would need a switch to turn off the radio if it needs the speaker. I will have to think about it a few days.Why not just take over the speaker(s) with a signal sensor? Then you don't need to mess with the radio being on/off..volume etc

[Bitsyncmaster]

Why not just take over the speaker(s) with a signal sensor? Then you don't need to mess with the radio being on/off..volume etc

That's what would be needed. Basically I could put in a normally closed relay that drives the radio output to the speaker. Then when I want the speaker I open that relay and drive the speaker with my output. It may be to much trouble to put that function in the unit. And I'm not sure if you open the radio output to the speaker, it may damage or set a fault code in the radio.

[Tillsy]

So there's a door buzzer!

I have corrected a crapload of random things over the past month while working on my D, and today when I went to fire her up for the first time an insane buzzing noise started the second I slid my key in. Took me a while to work it out, as I thought a relay was going spastic, but then remembered one of the many hanging cables I had reconnected was one of the door switches... pushed the switches in and the buzzing stopped, so just reached under and ripped the cable back out of the bottom one.

What an annoying sound! Now a sexy voice or chime on the other hand...

Odd that it would alarm for something so obvious like this, but not headlights (which I know because my daughter keeps playing with them). Might have to wire up an auto-circuit so they self-time off when the car is off like my other cars.

[Chris 16409]

So when you start the car, the buzzer goes off to remind you to buckle your seatbelt. The light in the binnacle also lights up for a few seconds to remind you to buckle up as well. I like seeing the light but not hearing the buzzer. I suppose I can just buckle up before I start the car, but that would be too easy. I decided to trick the buzzer module into thinking the seatbelt was always buckled. To do this I put a piece of electrical tape over one of the module's pins.

Courtesy of Welmoed

Pins on the buzzer plug are:
1 - Power 12V (Purple)
2 - door switch (Purple/Blue)
3 - seat belt switch (Black/Purple)
4 - seat belt warning light (Yellow/Purple)
5 - GND
6 - IGN lock while running (White/Red)

Look at the module and see which pin connects to the seat belt switch wire (Black/Purple). Put your piece of tape pn this pin (it's two away from the solid purple one). Now, the buzzer will operate when the key is in the ignition and the door is ajar. But not with the door closed and when you start the car without having buckeld up first. I even have a cut off switch going to the buzzer door plunger so I can really turn it off. My main goal was to maintain seltbelt light functionality without hearing the buzzer. if you just unplug the buzzer you get no seatbelt light. That's at least how my car works.

[AdmiralSenn]

Sorry to resurrect another thread but thanks to a fellow DCF member I finally got motivated to document this project a little bit more thoroughly. He's testing it out right now to verify that I've got it all working but here's the schematic at the moment:

15400

This is taken pin for pin from my working installation as of tonight. I will correct this if any mistakes are found but you SHOULD be able to duplicate the functionality I have with the same chime unit. Hopefully this is a little easier than tapping wires together and hoping it works. Between this and Welmoed's info you shouldn't have any issues whatsoever.

I am going to redo my connector that splices this into the harness and explore the headlight warning option since this wiring setup leaves one "trigger" pin unconnected. If I get it to work I will add that info as well. I believe the logic of "key not in switch, headlights on, turn on chime" is all present inside the module, it's just trying to figure out if it expects a positive or negative input that gets interesting.

[WelmoedJ]

Sorry to resurrect another thread but thanks to a fellow DCF member I finally got motivated to document this project a little bit more thoroughly. He's testing it out right now to verify that I've got it all working but here's the schematic at the moment:

15400

This is taken pin for pin from my working installation as of tonight. I will correct this if any mistakes are found but you SHOULD be able to duplicate the functionality I have with the same chime unit. Hopefully this is a little easier than tapping wires together and hoping it works. Between this and Welmoed's info you shouldn't have any issues whatsoever.

I am going to redo my connector that splices this into the harness and explore the headlight warning option since this wiring setup leaves one "trigger" pin unconnected. If I get it to work I will add that info as well. I believe the logic of "key not in switch, headlights on, turn on chime" is all present inside the module, it's just trying to figure out if it expects a positive or negative input that gets interesting.

No 5 expects a positive signal, so either side parking lights will do to provide this power.
I have chosen to connect to one of the red/black or red/orange wires in the big loom to the front of the car (near the driver's feet).

[crol]

Hi All ! My delorean does not have the buzzer, so seat belt light in the dash does not work. I was wodering if I can curt circuit black and purple wire to yellow and purple wires. Will this work ?

[volkstony]

Well I have my Cadillac buzzer and have a old mgb pecktron seat belt buzzer. I did not see where the ground wire connects to. Am I missing something? Thanks again Tony

[Patrick C]

Sorry to resurrect another thread but thanks to a fellow DCF member I finally got motivated to document this project a little bit more thoroughly. He's testing it out right now to verify that I've got it all working but here's the schematic at the moment:

15400

This is taken pin for pin from my working installation as of tonight. I will correct this if any mistakes are found but you SHOULD be able to duplicate the functionality I have with the same chime unit. Hopefully this is a little easier than tapping wires together and hoping it works. Between this and Welmoed's info you shouldn't have any issues whatsoever.

I am going to redo my connector that splices this into the harness and explore the headlight warning option since this wiring setup leaves one "trigger" pin unconnected. If I get it to work I will add that info as well. I believe the logic of "key not in switch, headlights on, turn on chime" is all present inside the module, it's just trying to figure out if it expects a positive or negative input that gets interesting.

Just wanted to bump this thread. I finally tracked down the GM harness connector for the door chime, so I am going to wire that in and replace the many female terminals I am using now for mine. I may also try to wire in the warning when the headlights are on...

[Patrick C]

Just wanted to bump this thread. I finally tracked down the GM harness connector for the door chime, so I am going to wire that in and replace the many female terminals I am using now for mine. I may also try to wire in the warning when the headlights are on...

Also, I don't believe the wiring diagram above to be correct...I will continue playing with this and post the correct wiring for others who want to attempt this.

For one, there is no ground wire mentioned in AdmiralSenn's diagram, so I don't believe that to be correct.

Second, Welmoed's advice about switching a red/white wire by the pedal seems like that may be critical to getting the seat belt chime and light working (my seat belt chime has never worked in 8 years since installing the Cadillac Chime...thought I got it today but it continues chiming with the car off and seatbelt unbuckled):


Guys,

My chimer is working.
I checked with Bitsyncmaster some indistinctnesses in the wiring diagram.

From this info exchange I learned that the white/red wire to the buzzer connector is not attached to the right source.
This wire has to be connected to the white wire that leads to the main relay.

The white connector in the loom between IGN lock and main loom (down deep near the pedals) has two white/red wires at the pedal side of the connector. One is for the buzzer and is a bit thinner than the other leading to the main relay.

The easiest way to connect the white/red buzzer wire to the white wire is cut it near the white connector (approx 1.5-2 inch from it?) and splice it into the white wire.

Some cars may have the correct wiring and in this case you don't need to cut and splice.

If you want me to do so, I can make a write-up with pictures for the general diagram section. Let me know."

[Patrick C]

Here’s my current wiring setup:

https://iili.io/J1U0QV.jpg
https://iili.io/J1UECB.jpg

And a video of the current functionality:
https://youtu.be/sOeiTnsQLPY

Anyone have any tips to make the seatbelt chime work as designed?

[AdmiralSenn]

It's entirely possible I got something wrong on my diagram but I know my chime was working when I last had a battery in the car. Let me see if I can get into it and I'll confirm how it's set up now. I do remember I had endless problems getting a ground that worked correctly, and I was surprised when I got it working as it didn't make immediate sense to me. I do remember trying to ground a few pins and getting bizarre results from it - unfortunately I don't have a diagram of the internal circuit so it was a lot of trial and error.

[Patrick C]

It's entirely possible I got something wrong on my diagram but I know my chime was working when I last had a battery in the car. Let me see if I can get into it and I'll confirm how it's set up now. I do remember I had endless problems getting a ground that worked correctly, and I was surprised when I got it working as it didn't make immediate sense to me. I do remember trying to ground a few pins and getting bizarre results from it - unfortunately I don't have a diagram of the internal circuit so it was a lot of trial and error.

THANK YOU!!! Much appreciated!!!

[81dmc]

I have the Jeep chime module in my DeLorean with the factory Jeep connector wired in. Only reason I was able to do that years ago was this thread.


However now that this thread has been revived, I’d like to share this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058M0TN8/

I ended up using that in my 82 Mercedes. Simply dissect any original buzzer unit, remove source of buzzing (relay), and solder the power wires of that new unit in its place. You then have to program the unit with loopable mp3 file.

It’s cool way to have a custom chime on pretty much any car that came with a buzzer.

[Patrick C]

My connector off a Corvette arrived this weekend. With any luck, this might get finished this weekend if AdmiralSenn can definitely show what wires he connected and where.

[Patrick C]

BUMP. Any luck, AdmiralSenn?

[Josh]

I have the Jeep chime module in my DeLorean with the factory Jeep connector wired in. Only reason I was able to do that years ago was this thread.


However now that this thread has been revived, I’d like to share this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058M0TN8/

I ended up using that in my 82 Mercedes. Simply dissect any original buzzer unit, remove source of buzzing (relay), and solder the power wires of that new unit in its place. You then have to program the unit with loopable mp3 file.

It’s cool way to have a custom chime on pretty much any car that came with a buzzer.

I was looking at buying this programmable chime after seeing this video:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pZ301QEoo9Y

[nkemp]

... I’d like to share this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058M0TN8/ ...



Building on the above post, the following guy created a custom circuit to replace the GM chime module:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vqUfE6jv73o


Here is his circuit diagram: https://www.facebook.com/grimrepairs/photos/a.171244590926003/171244360926026

The video shows how he repurposed the GM module to get the connectors but we wouldn't do that. You might want to cannibalize the original DeLorean buzzer or make an adapter to plug into the connector.

He doesn't implement the full functionality. No seat-belt buzzer or dash light warning.

[mr_maxime]

I was looking at buying this programmable chime after seeing this video:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pZ301QEoo9Y

Hahaha a while back I saw a video with one of those "bitching Betty" chimes and I wanted to wire one in. They're pretty damn pricy though.

[nkemp]

This product (and there are other versions available the same site) has a lot of potential for BTTF, Chimes & horn applications: https://www.adafruit.com/product/2217

Here is how one guy customized his horns for various situations: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lv8wqnk_TsA

Dave you can probably answer this quickly .... Can you "Share" the cars ground/switches with the module? In other words, use the door switch to activate the car's usual circuits as well as actuate the module as SWXX.

One potential issue is if multiple chime events are triggered, I believe the module will cycle through them in the order the signals were received. An "alarm shower".

[bueller]

I used the older version of that board in a setup similar to this: https://learn.adafruit.com/audio-fx-remote-control The remote control aspect of it is lots of fun at car shows. The older board didn't have an amp so I bought one of the ones offered at adafruit and wired it all in to a speaker in the engine compartment. Each trigger plays a different clip from the movies. 4 on the remote and the others wired into the project enclosure box. Also wired it up so that I can have it make the door opening sound from the movie when the doors open from the Wings-A-Loft remote. Definitely a fun project and my kids love it anytime we are in public.

[jerrysony]

I used one of the left plungers to connect an adafruit board to make a time machine door opening sound effect, and works great.
The issue is that now I have a purple/white and a purple/blue wires hanging, and the seat belt light stays always on. (No buzzer on my car).
Should I just tie them together? I don't want to cause a short circuit.

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[DMC-Ron]

Jerry,
On my car, I pulled the Purple/Blue connector from the door switch because I didn't like the obnoxious door buzzer. However, my seat belt light still functions normally because the "buzzer logic box" is still in the car. If you don't have the buzzer I wonder what's causing the seat belt light to remain on (I'm assuming the obvious, that you are fastening your seat belt)? The Yellow/Purple wire at the buzzer is grounded for the light to be on. Has there been some alteration that might cause this?

The Purple/White and the Purple/Blue which you removed from your door switch are intended to be shorted together when the door is open. The circuit opens when the door is shut. There's no harm it connecting these wires together but I don't think it will help since connecting them together normally tells the buzzer logic box that the door is open.

Did you remove the buzzer? If so, I would reinstall. By repurposing the door switch, you've already eliminated the more obnoxious part of the buzzer function, and with the unit installed the seat belt light should work.

Ron

[jerrysony]

Jerry,
On my car, I pulled the Purple/Blue connector from the door switch because I didn't like the obnoxious door buzzer. However, my seat belt light still functions normally because the "buzzer logic box" is still in the car. If you don't have the buzzer I wonder what's causing the seat belt light to remain on (I'm assuming the obvious, that you are fastening your seat belt)? The Yellow/Purple wire at the buzzer is grounded for the light to be on. Has there been some alteration that might cause this?

The Purple/White and the Purple/Blue which you removed from your door switch are intended to be shorted together when the door is open. The circuit opens when the door is shut. There's no harm it connecting these wires together but I don't think it will help since connecting them together normally tells the buzzer logic box that the door is open.

Did you remove the buzzer? If so, I would reinstall. By repurposing the door switch, you've already eliminated the more obnoxious part of the buzzer function, and with the unit installed the seat belt light should work.

RonThank you ron. I'll try to reinstall the buzzer and see the results. My car is an early model 2607, so I'm not sure if it has a swicht or sensor at the seat belt lock.

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