Liquid Electrical Tape on the Printed Circuit Board

[AugustneverEnds]

The new printed circuit board I got last month already has the tabs lifting out of place :what_the: Anyone tried some kind of electrical adhesive to hold them down? I am weary of regular glue, partially because I don't know if it will hold and secondly I am worried about conductivity suffering. I was thinking something like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/4-fl-oz-liquid-electrical-tape-36821.html

Any thoughts?

[AugustneverEnds]

Maybe this one is a better choice: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Star-Brite-4-oz-Liquid-Electrical-Tape-Black-084104N/206513456

Described as making a dielectric coating, hmmm.....

[David T]

Maybe this one is a better choice: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Star-Brite-4-oz-Liquid-Electrical-Tape-Black-084104N/206513456

Described as making a dielectric coating, hmmm.....

That kind of stuff isn't for gluing things together so much as putting a non-conductive coating on as a substitute for electrical tape.

[AugustneverEnds]

Think a tiny drop of a regular adhesive would be safe to use?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Don't think you need to worry about conductivity of glue. It hard to find a good glue that will hold onto the mylar film. Probably a contact cement put on both sides, let dry, then press togeather.

[AugustneverEnds]

Don't think you need to worry about conductivity of glue. It hard to find a good glue that will hold onto the mylar film. Probably a contact cement put on both sides, let dry, then press togeather.

Any recommendations? Something like this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Weldwood-3-fl-oz-Original-Contact-Cement-00107/100195615

[Bitsyncmaster]

Any recommendations? Something like this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Weldwood-3-fl-oz-Original-Contact-Cement-00107/100195615

Yes, that is what I would try first.

[AugustneverEnds]

Well used the contact cement to affix the tabs down yesterday, letting cure today, will give it a try tonight or tomorrow afternoon, fingers crossed.

[content22207_2]

If contact cement doesn't do it for you, try double sided carpet tape. That's what I use to hold NOS air box labels to my custom air filter lids (35 year old Dunmurry adhesive doesn't work anymore). Carpet tape is similarly sticky to VHB emblem tape, but nowhere as thick. I'd put one strip on each side, stick the contact tabs down, then sprinkle remaining exposed tape between the tabs with dust of your choice (try the vacuum cleaner bag).

Bill Robertson
#5939

[AugustneverEnds]

If contact cement doesn't do it for you, try double sided carpet tape. That's what I use to hold NOS air box labels to my custom air filter lids (35 year old Dunmurry adhesive doesn't work anymore). Carpet tape is similarly sticky to VHB emblem tape, but nowhere as thick. I'd put one strip on each side, stick the contact tabs down, then sprinkle remaining exposed tape between the tabs with dust of your choice (try the vacuum cleaner bag).

Bill Robertson
#5939

Thanks, good to have another method to try if the cement doesn't work. I am NOT buying another circuit board.

[joebob101]

I had to buy a new circuit board. It looked pretty good but after it was installed for a couple of days, the laminating mylar started separating. The way I found out about the separation - The engine died and wouldn't restart. I chased an electrical gremlin for a couple of days. I found the negative side of the coil was grounded and kept the coil from firing. I kept following the problem until it ended up at the tach circuit. I took the binnacle out and found that the mylar of the new board had separated allowing the electrical grid to come loose and touch other parts of the grid. The tach "wire" was touching a ground preventing the engine from starting.

I called DMCH and reported the problem on the new board. They called back and said that their inventory quality looked pretty sketchy but they would find the best they had and send it to me. When I received my replacement, it was a used board but has worked perfectly.

Do whatever you can to save your old board because I learned that the 35 year old pieces may have outlived their shelf life.

[[email protected]]

Had the same problem with the replacement board I purchased from DMCH, the quick fix is to use superglue, just a pin size spot on each of the separated tabs does it but you have to hold each one down for several minutes until the glue dries. Have gone back in several other times for unrelated problems and they seem to be holding up fine unless you abuse them.

[AugustneverEnds]

Well gave it a try today and almost everything worked except the voltmeter and tachometer, you know two that I actually need to have working :mecry: The lower left hand side tab (12v) lifted up again from the very edge so dabbed it with cement and waiting again. At least the other tabs seem to be staying put. More to come...

[AugustneverEnds]

Wish I had good news to report but not so. Temperature gauge stuck at 12 o'clock, tachometer between 5 and 6 o'clock and still no voltmeter or, critically, charging system warning lamp :sad30:

Abandoning the contact cement and moving on to carpet tape and dust.

[content22207_2]

Just got off the phone with an owner who recently purchased Ed Uding's replacement PC paper: http://www.delorean.eu/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=19_26_68&products_id=68001

He is very satisfied. No problems attaching the harness connectors. He reports 3 days shipping time from Europe.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[AugustneverEnds]

Just got off the phone with an owner who recently purchased Ed Uding's replacement PC paper: http://www.delorean.eu/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=19_26_68&products_id=68001

He is very satisfied. No problems attaching the harness connectors. He reports 3 days shipping time from Europe.

Bill Robertson
#5939

Do you know any specific details about the new circuit board? What makes it better to the original? (besides not being 35 years old) I am really getting tired of this stupid thing not working. Today I had all the tabs secured down, got the harness connectors in cleanly, no twisting or pulling out, and I still have a tachometer stuck at the 5 o'clock position, a non-functioning voltmeter and for a new twist, the charging system light came on the first time I tried it but now that is inoperative too.

I know I said I wouldn't buy another one but I am reaching the end of my rope.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Do you know any specific details about the new circuit board? What makes it better to the original? (besides not being 35 years old) I am really getting tired of this stupid thing not working. Today I had all the tabs secured down, got the harness connectors in cleanly, no twisting or pulling out, and I still have a tachometer stuck at the 5 o'clock position, a non-functioning voltmeter and for a new twist, the charging system light came on the first time I tried it but now that is inoperative too.

I know I said I wouldn't buy another one but I am reaching the end of my rope.

Making a new "flex board" has better materials and processes these days. I'm glad ED has done this new board. My USA circuit board vendor would have cost more if I had done a new flex board.

[content22207_2]

No matter which PC paper you use, replace steel speed nuts that attach the gauges with proper brass nuts. You can add brass washers if the copper traces have been damaged. Size is 6-32.

Clean oxidation off the mating surfaces first.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[AugustneverEnds]

Picked up brass washers and nuts from Home Depot today. I will install tomorrow and see if anything changes. Thanks for all of the help everyone

[AugustneverEnds]

Well the problem is not in the circuit board. I decided to spring for the DMC Europe new board (so much for not buying another one :hihi2: I also used brass washers and nuts on both circuit boards and I am still getting nothing from the voltmeter and the tach is still swinging to 5 o'clock. The oil pressure gauge works but is jerky. The illumination, turn signal, high and low beam, charging warning, door open, seatbelt lights all work as they should. Should I be searching for a bad ground? I am pretty much out of ideas at this point

[content22207_2]

First & foremost ensure Fuse #5 doesn't have oxidation on it's blades. While you're there look for battery voltage in and out of the fuse.

Then make sure the instrument cluster rings to a known good ground (do it with the fuel pump running because they share a ground junction).

Then look for battery or charging voltage on Green in the instrument cluster harness connector (or use the dash volt gauge terminal itself if your binnacle is still loose).

That should troubleshoot the dash volt gauge.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[AugustneverEnds]

Fuse 5 did not have oxidation on the blades; it was completely blown! So of course the simplest solution was the answer to my problem :dork: Now all of the instruments are working and lit and I am a happy DMC driver again. Thank you all very much for your help, I think I can call this one closed now