Fascia Repair

[Lwanmtr]

Hi. I'm wondering if anyone can tell me whats the best way to repair a crack in the fascia? My front has a crack (see picture) and Im not familiar with how to fix this stuff.

41596


Also, my rear is a bit bowed on the top (presumably from something sitting on it for a long time). I've tried a heat gun, but cant get enough heat on the whole thing at once. Im considering posting it for sale to someone who has the equipment to do it, and see if I can get enough to get a used one from DMC. Or maybe someone knows how to fix it, or is local to tacoma, wa that could help out.

41597

Thanks

[dn010]

I have fixed cracks by filling them with epoxy and sanding it smooth once it hardens, then repainting.

My rear fascia saga (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?9591) was corrected after leaving it outside for weeks, upside down and supported where it was bowed, in the Florida sunshine during the summer. When installing it, I put a support inside between the upper bumper and the frame as suggested in the above thread. It isn't perfect but it is much better than it was.

[81dmc]

It might be best to repair the cracks with a 3m plastic epoxy. The method will actually work well since the fascias are very similar to the plastic ones we have today.

As for the rear fascia, that could be repaired using a thick strip of steel, stainless, or even aluminum window-welded to the urethane.

[Lwanmtr]

Thanks. Where do you get that epoxy at? Any special type?

On the rear...

Up here in washington, we do generally get enough hot days to set it outside and let the sun do the work...hehe.

Im not really a fabiricator to be able to make a brace out of metal or anything....and would prolly need one in good shape to use as a template...hehe.

[81dmc]

Thanks. Where do you get that epoxy at? Any special type?

On the rear...

Up here in washington, we do generally get enough hot days to set it outside and let the sun do the work...hehe.

Im not really a fabiricator to be able to make a brace out of metal or anything....and would prolly need one in good shape to use as a template...hehe.

You don't need to be a fabricator. Just choose your flavor of metal at Ace, then cut it with a dremel.

Buy the 3m 5895 EZ Sand plastic epoxy here (http://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-5895-Automix-EZ-Sand-Flexible-Parts-Repair-Kit-2-5-oz-Tubes-/331670985709?hash=item4d39219bed:g:VYYAAOSwVL1WDsQ l&item=331670985709&vxp=mtr)

[Lwanmtr]

Thanks. Lol...I wouldnt trust myself making a good cut even with a dremel. There's a reason I do cg work (undo is a wonderful thing)..hehe.

I'll check out that epoxy. Would be nice to actually make progress on that part, even though I still need a front impact absorber before I can put the front back together.

[Lwanmtr]

Is this the same as the 3m one you mentioned?

http://www.autozone.com/sandpaper-and-body-repair-tools/body-repair-and-accessories/bondo-1-oz-epoxy-flexible-bumper-repair-compound/69590_0_0/?checkfit=true

Wondering cause its alot less expensive.

[funkstuf]

Hi. I'm wondering if anyone can tell me whats the best way to repair a crack in the fascia? My front has a crack (see picture) and Im not familiar with how to fix this stuff.

41596


Also, my rear is a bit bowed on the top (presumably from something sitting on it for a long time). I've tried a heat gun, but cant get enough heat on the whole thing at once. Im considering posting it for sale to someone who has the equipment to do it, and see if I can get enough to get a used one from DMC. Or maybe someone knows how to fix it, or is local to tacoma, wa that could help out.

41597

Thanks

Do not use bondo or anything that dries hard. I had a 4" hole in my front fascia and repaired it using a urethane filler putty. It remains flexible just like the fascia (which I believe is polyurethane based), has never cracked and is undetectable. You can put a skim coat of the body glazing putty on as it tends to have some flexibility and is thin. Then prime and paint.

[Lwanmtr]

Ya confused me....lol

Body glazing Putty? Whats that?

The one I saw online at autozone is supposedly felxible, but I could be wrong. I've never tackled bodywork on a car til now...so no idea on this stuff. hehe.

[dhaney]

Use this stuff...
automix-ez-sand-flexible-parts-repair-kit-05895.html

And to use that one of these....

http://3mcollision.com/3m-manual-applicator-08571.html

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

[dhaney]

Use this stuff...
automix-ez-sand-flexible-parts-repair-kit-05895.html

And to use that one of these....

http://3mcollision.com/3m-manual-applicator-08571.html

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
Use this stuff...
http://3mcollision.com/3m-ez-sand-multi-purpose-repair-material-05887.html

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

[Michael]

I do this kind of work almost on a daily basis. The 3m Automix products are good but the repair will never hold unless proper prep of the material has been followed. It took me some time to get good at this kind of work and no offense, but it probably will not come to you on the first try. I would take it to a specialist to fix it. If you do not have the equipment and materials, you will most likely spend more to fix it yourself. Heck the Automix putty alone is almost 40 bucks a tube, granted it's enough to do several repairs but in addition you will need all the stuff to prep and put a decent coat of paint and unless you do this a lot then it's a pile of money that you wil not recover.

416434164441645

The plastic must not only be fixed at the crack, finished and painted, but properly reinforced in the rear. The bumper material must be prepped (depending on the tryp of re inforcement applied) and the space/clearance concerns. This way when something happens in the future, you have some degree id resistance to cracking. Even temp changes cause the bumpers material to expand and shrink at different rates than the repair material, so if it's not done right, the repair will come out in time sooner or later.

[funkstuf]

I do this kind of work almost on a daily basis. The 3m Automix products are good but the repair will never hold unless proper prep of the material has been followed. It took me some time to get good at this kind of work and no offense, but it probably will not come to you on the first try. I would take it to a specialist to fix it. If you do not have the equipment and materials, you will most likely spend more to fix it yourself. Heck the Automix putty alone is almost 40 bucks a tube, granted it's enough to do several repairs but in addition you will need all the stuff to prep and put a decent coat of paint and unless you do this a lot then it's a pile of money that you wil not recover..
I'd listen to this. If you don't have the equiipment to do it or paint, it's probably more economical to take it to a shop because the most expensive part is probably going to be the painting and you're liable to end up paying for the repair twice if you're not sure what you're doing.

[Lwanmtr]

Not too worried about the painting. I'm pretty confident I can do that myself, and not pay someone $500 to do it.

[Lwanmtr]

I've been working to repair my front fascia...got it all sanded and put a bit of primer already.

I ordered some adhesive that should let me fix the crack in the corner.

What I'm have trouble finding is flexible filler. The fascia guy Toby at dmcnw uses suggested Evercoat...but didnt give a part # or anything...I've looked at all their products, but cant tell which is flexible or not (cause I guess they figure people otta know?).

Does anyone know which one he mighta been referring to...or have any other suggestions for a decent one to use (that dont cost $100)? I havent
been able to find the 3M stuff mentioned above.

Thanks

[Michael]

He is referring to the polyester glazing putty Evercoat which is what I use. It used to come on a round container but now it's in a big tube(like a big toothpaste tube)

It's expensive. If I remember right the flexible has a different color label than the normal (which has a blue label). I don't like the flexible stuff. I have used it before and it's a bear to feather out properly. I use Easysand Evercoat for most all of my repairs.
Whoever sells Evercoat products in your neck of the woods should be able to get it for you if they don't stock it.

[Lwanmtr]

The fascia would kinda need the flexible stuff, I think.

Been trying to see who sells it around here. Prices Ive seen on evercoat products seem to range from around $20 to over $100..but the $20 stuff prolly isnt the stuff i need...hehe.

[DMC VIN 6639]

I have been working on a solution to my warped rear fascia. I started with a 1/2 sag in the middle tail light and bumper area. Fortunately the bumper is supposed to be straight as an arrow. So, I clamped 4 aluminum angle sections with wood and C clamps. Then I fiberglassed them in. The 4 sections are tied together with 2 vertical angles. My car doesn't have a foam bumper, nor does it have a complete rear closing panel, nor does it have a dmc engine, so I have some room to add these. Cost was about $50 for AL and another $50 for the glass and resin. I imagine it could be several years before the plastic accepts this as its new shape. The fascia is now under stress.

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[Lwanmtr]

Looks good. If I knew how to do that sorta thing I would do that to mine.

My fascia was warped as well...still is a bit. My solution was to brace and suspend the fascia out in the sun with the ends pulled so as it heats up they move down. It worked for the most part and reduced my sag alot (you can see my rig in my restoration thread). I've made a pair of supports that I will tape to the impact absorber and push up on the middle and get it straightened.

The fascia will accept the new shape as permanant fairly quick, specially when it heats up and can relax.

[SS Spoiler]

I had my facia off for seven months leaning against the
wall. Had major problems refitting. Moral.....store the
facia flat.

[Lwanmtr]

Indeed. I was test fitting the rear on the car and since I did my fixes, its gonna take more fiddling to get it back on than it did yo get off...hehe.