roll pin replacement

[John U]

I am planning to replace the roll pins as a project this winter. The car shifts well, but if I am not very "deliberate" shifting to second, the gears will grind. The hydraulics are all new and the car does not grind as much since replacing them, but the problem did not go away completely so I am assuming bent roll pins. (also have slight problems shifting into reverse occasionally).
So here is the question....can you guys contribute to my list of "while I'm in there" stuff....
I figure I need new tranny seals, mounts, tighten the infamous end nut, replace the clutch (which is still good, but "while I'm in there")....anything else????

thanks
John

[AdmiralSenn]

Could this be a misadjusted or dying shifter cable? Mine did something VERY similar right before it froze up completely - difficulty getting into first instead of second, and reverse was also tricky.

Might be worth replacing or at the very least adjusting if you're set on tearing into things, and consider replacing your shifter linkage bushings as well - they're cheap and make a HUGE difference in how the shifter feels.

Plus both of those are easier to do than getting into the transmission itself anyway. Might save yourself a major project.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Reverse is always (and still is) a problem for me but a double clutch gets it in reverse. I did have a problem with second gear but that was fixed with both clutch line and linkage.

[Delorean02378]

Take a look at Travis's site http://www.noroads.com/delorean/projects/engine/?content=5

He recently went through this same procedure.

Kirk

[John U]

Could this be a misadjusted or dying shifter cable? Mine did something VERY similar right before it froze up completely - difficulty getting into first instead of second, and reverse was also tricky.

Might be worth replacing or at the very least adjusting if you're set on tearing into things, and consider replacing your shifter linkage bushings as well - they're cheap and make a HUGE difference in how the shifter feels.

Plus both of those are easier to do than getting into the transmission itself anyway. Might save yourself a major project.

this makes sense as today when I started the car, I had a hard time pulling the shifter out of gear.
can you give me a list of what should be replaced? shift cable, bushings, pivot pins?

thanks
John

[AdmiralSenn]

Everything you should need is on here:

http://www.delorean.com/store/c-289-4-2-0-manual-shift-linkage.aspx

Your shift cable may not need replacing, so try adjusting it if you want to try to save ~$100 (#34 on the pag). I don't have the guide handy that explains how, but the cable is fairly sensitive - even a half a turn can make a big difference. Especially pay attention to where the cable is before you touch it - if you mess up the adjustment or have to replace the cable it'll be MUCH easier to have a reference point!

You'll definitely want to replace #7 and #8, keep in mind that there are two of #7 for every #8 and a total of four bushings, so you need eight of the sleeves and four of the bushings.

And it wouldn't hurt to replace the pivot bolts either. #17 is the big killer that's been known to break. Bear in mind that to replace that bolt and the two bushings that flank it, you'll have to dig your arm up into the frame to access those parts - I got lots of scratches on my arm from a sharp edge in there. It may be possible to undo the bolt and slide the whole assembly backwards but I've never tried that.

[ccurzio]

Can someone point to a link where I can find and buy the reinforced roll pin? Everything on the delorean.com store says "new old stock part".

Thankfully, I've already got the replacement steel clutch line.

[jawn101]

Talk to Toby at DPNW, he has it.

[David T]

The "reinforced" roll pin is just the correct size roll pin with another smaller one inserted inside the larger one AFTER the larger one is installed. It is a good idea to go over the linkage for any worn, loose, and misadjusted parts (worn or missing rubber bushings) and to lubricate it so it moves smoothly. Also check the motor and transmission mounts and the level of the gear oil. If you do not know when it was last changed or what kind it is then just change it. Keep an extra pivot bolt in the car, eventually the one you have WILL break and if you have a spare you can get going again quickly.
Trouble shifting can be a problem inside the clutch (worn clutch), you will know once you pull the transmission. Not a lot of "while you're in there" stuff inside the transmission, general inspection, cleaning, replacing the roll pins, setting the backlash in the final drive, making sure the nuts on the ends of the shafts are locked, etc. You *could* paint the inside of the case with Glyptal and install a magnetic drain plug. Other things include, a remote bleeder for the clutch slave, replacing the clutch slave, replacing the output seals (and possibly the flanges) and replacing the C/V boots. Besides the roll pins, there really isn't much to do inside the manual transmission usually. The bearings and syncros are not usually worn enough to require replacement. And unless the car was really flogged badly the gears should be fine. If the seals are not leaking you don't even have to replace them, they can be reused.
David Teitelbaum