Need recommendations on pulling motor

[Morpheus]

Gentlemen,

I am preparing to pull my motor and tranny from the frame (body has been separated). What do you recommend I use to connect the motor to the hoist? Chains? Nylon straps? Something else?

What lengths do I need? I have never pulled a motor before, so forgive my ignorance.

[sean]

I just use one of these, comes with the chains but the one I have has 4 chains but I don't use them all:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_19979_19979
https://www.northerntool.com/images/product/images/14589_lg.jpg
4407

[Morpheus]

Do you use the included brackets, or do you improvise some hooks to use with the lifting eyelets?

[sean]

My brackets are shaped differently and I do use them, they are "L" shaped. I run a bolt through the bracket and the eyelet and tighten down with a nut.




Edit:
Here is the guy I actually have:
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200485246_200485246?cm_sp=Upsells-_-Top%20Sellers-_-Product%20Page

http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/images/21063_lg.jpg

[Kenny_Z]

I didn't lift a Delorean engine with one of those but I did a much heavier cast iron V8. Just head down to a home improvement store and get some of these rated high enough to hold the engine safely.

http://www.dockerills.co.uk/image/image/168/thumb/screw_open_chain_link.jpg

They should loop through the brackets on the engine and the holes on the L brackets.

[Morpheus]

I have this hoist:

http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/shop-cranes/1-ton-capacity-foldable-shop-crane-93840.html

Which weight setting should I use? How much does an engine and tranny weigh?

[dn010]

It may be tough pulling the engine and transmission together. You may want to separate them first, put the hoist over the trans, raise it up a little, hook up the transmission to it, unbolt it from the engine/mounts etc. and then lower it down to the ground. I find it much harder to balance the whole thing when pulling them together, even when using a chain hoist.

I've also used everything from chain to thick nylon tow straps wrapped around the engine in order to lift them up, just make sure you get something that will hold the weight.

[WelmoedJ]

You didn't mention it, but I presume you have taken the rear facia off.
Otherwise it's hardly possible and may also cause damage to the facia.

The French and Italians have a rigorous method to create space.
They cut the rear section of the frame (the one between the rails) and bolt that on afterwards.

This allows the engine to be pulled with the tranny still connected as you do not have to lift the combination very much.

[dn010]

He is pulling the engine/trans from the frame with the body off, should be easy :smile:

[dmc4087]

I removed my engine/gearbox last week for some work. Just used some good quality rope.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b160/88mph/1-17.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b160/88mph/4-15.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b160/88mph/3-16.jpg

The weight of the gearbox tilts the lot to the correct angle for removing it from the frame

http://www.delorean.ie/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1317&start=225

[nullset]

It may be tough pulling the engine and transmission together. You may want to separate them first, put the hoist over the trans, raise it up a little, hook up the transmission to it, unbolt it from the engine/mounts etc. and then lower it down to the ground. I find it much harder to balance the whole thing when pulling them together, even when using a chain hoist.

I've also used everything from chain to thick nylon tow straps wrapped around the engine in order to lift them up, just make sure you get something that will hold the weight.

If the body has been removed, it's not that difficult to pull them both at the same time.

I did it with just one helper and a hoist.

--buddy

[David T]

If you have never done this before the best advice would be to get someone to help that has *some* experience. This way they can give advice and you get an extra set of hands and eyes. Always helpful just in case you start removing the motor and realize as you are doing it that you forgot to disconnect something! Chains are the best way to go but nylon straps can be good to. Rope is to be avoided. You never know the strength and have to depend on knots. Not the best combination. Especially over sharp edges. You might want to drain all of the fluids before removing, if you tilt it you may get oil all over the place. On your hoist keep the lifting arm as short as possible to have the most strength. The longer it gets the lower the capacity and the greater the possibility of tipping over. Make sure the floor is smooth and no holes for the wheels to get stuck in as you roll the hoist with the motor hanging on it. Keep all body parts out from under the load at all times. Have some scrap lumber to set the motor on so it doesn't roll over. when you set it down. As you lift, if it gets hard to lift, STOP and see what is getting stuck. NEVER try to force it out.
David Teitelbaum

[sean]

Pull the engine/tranny together. It's not that difficult with the body on the frame and even easier with the body off the frame.

[Morpheus]

Pull the engine/tranny together. It's not that difficult with the body on the frame and even easier with the body off the frame.

I agree.

Any estimates on the weight of the engine and tranny?

[Kenny_Z]

A quick search puts the engine at about 331 pounds. I'm not sure how much the trans weighs, probably a good 80 pounds for the manual? I'd say look into using the 1 to 1 1/2 ton setting on the hoist.

[Ozzie]

Brandon,
Check this out: An engine stand (http://www.harborfreight.com/750-lb-capacity-engine-stand-32915.html?utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=3411b&utm_source=1002) on sale for $30. Be a great place to put (and work on) the engine, while you work on your overall restoration.

[Morpheus]

Way ahead of you, Oz!

I picked one up when I got my hoist. With coupons, I got both for like $140. All I need now is the load leveler and some bolts to mount the motor to the stand.

[nullset]

Way ahead of you, Oz!

I picked one up when I got my hoist. With coupons, I got both for like $140. All I need now is the load leveler and some bolts to mount the motor to the stand.

M10x100mm or so should do it. Longer if you can find them, but I think that's sufficient.

Just get the longest M10 with the highest rating you can find at your local parts house.

--buddy

[TTait]

Brandon,
Check this out: An engine stand (http://www.harborfreight.com/750-lb-capacity-engine-stand-32915.html?utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=3411b&utm_source=1002) on sale for $30. Be a great place to put (and work on) the engine, while you work on your overall restoration.

My project engine is on that exact stand... It works fine. I was even able to get the engine off the floor and on to the stand by myself - with some careful planning.

[Morpheus]

Ok, I managed to pull the motor and trans this weekend, but I have a few questions.

M10X100 bolts suggested earlier are wayyyyyy too long. I had to go buy M10x70 ones.

Should the flywheel remain on when attaching the motor to a stand? We got all happy with the impact wrench the other night and took it off, but later I realized that I have no way to secure the crank in order to get the pulley off.

[nullset]

If you remove the pully with an impact, you won't need anything to secure it.

Otherwise, there's a volvo specific tool designed to lock it up. I don't know the part number. It's in the service manual.

--buddy

[opethmike]

Ok, I managed to pull the motor and trans this weekend, but I have a few questions.

M10X100 bolts suggested earlier are wayyyyyy too long. I had to go buy M10x70 ones.

Should the flywheel remain on when attaching the motor to a stand? We got all happy with the impact wrench the other night and took it off, but later I realized that I have no way to secure the crank in order to get the pulley off.

You could either put the flywheel back on and lock it, or you could try an impact wrench if you have access.

[David T]

The "special" tool requires a flywheel. It fits into the starter teeth and is bolted to the housing, locking the flywheel in place. A "quick and dirty" method would be to stick 2 bolts into the flange where the flywheel attaches and stick a long bar or pipe through the bolts, holding the motor back, while you undo the nut on the other end. If you have an impact though you should be able to undo the nut without having to hold back.
David Teitelbaum

[Nicholas R]

As far as pulling the engine and transmission together being easier, does this hold true if working with an automatic transmission? Does the automatic weight the same as the manual?