View Full Version : General 5k mile barn find to be auctioned
BladeBronson
05-09-2016, 01:19 AM
I just came across this: http://barnfinds.com/5k-mile-delorean-found-while-boat-hunting/
Jonathan
05-09-2016, 06:20 AM
That's pretty clean for being found in a "barn."
Whoever ends up with this car, they should correct the mistake on the ballast resistor wiring. If I were to guess why one of the connectors you see there got replaced (with a light blue coloured one), it's because when the four connections are done incorrectly, they tend to get wicked hot and melt off the plastic ends. Car subsequently dies or won't start. Easy fix if you look in the right place.
Rich_NYS
05-09-2016, 08:37 AM
I'm tempted to go to that auction.
content22207_2
05-09-2016, 05:41 PM
Whoever ends up with this car, they should correct the mistake on the ballast resistor wiring. If I were to guess why one of the connectors you see there got replaced (with a light blue coloured one), it's because when the four connections are done incorrectly, they tend to get wicked hot and melt off the plastic ends. Car subsequently dies or won't start. Easy fix if you look in the right place.
How do you know the ballast resistors are wired up wrong? Even enlarged 4800x3000 I can't tell if White and White/Yellow are on the open ends. If they are, ballast resistors are factory configuration for running ignition:
41915
Ballast resistors get wicked hot in normal operation. That's why you can't run HEI with them in the loop -- they convert voltage into heat, leaving you with about 8 volts into the coil.
My ballast resistors failed last year on the way to the DMCMW Open House. Would start out OK, then overheat within 5 minutes or so. Resistance jumped to nearly 6 ohm, which of course killed ignition. Since I'm running a coil that doesn't need external resistance I bypassed them and haven't had a lick of trouble since: http://www.dmctoday.com/showthread.php?284-How-to-Upgrade-to-High-Energy-Ignition-%28HEI%29&p=32723&viewfull=1#post32723
All resistors eventually burn out: oven element, hot water heater element, ignition ballast resistor, etc.
Bill Robertson
#5939
content22207_2
05-09-2016, 05:44 PM
Even enlarged 4800x3000 I can't tell if White and White/Yellow are on the open ends.
Tamir's forum automatically resized the picture 1088x681. I did look at it 4800x3003.
Bill Robertson
#5939
content22207_2
05-09-2016, 05:55 PM
If you are running HEI, just throw the ballast resistors away (provided your coil can handle it). This is how mine are currently wired (bypassed on the side of the road on the way to the DMCMW open house last year -- haven't had a chance to permanently bypass them yet):
41916
Bill Robertson
#5939
Jonathan
05-09-2016, 05:57 PM
How do you know the ballast resistors are wired up wrong?
I can't see the wire colours either. I can see the second connector on the leftside though, and it isn't meant to be there. Mine melted themselves off for exactly the same reason, until someone on this very forum in 2008 pointed it out to me. Pay it forward, yo!! lol
content22207_2
05-09-2016, 06:55 PM
If White is on one of the open ends, then the left side/common end is already dropped to ~10 volts (one resistor). Tapping something off that end would have no effect on whichever resistor.
Even if a charging voltage input wire is connected to the common end, that's no different (as far as the remaining ballast resistor is concerned) than the White wire on an open end. It would increase coil voltage, however, which might damage the coil (there has to be some reason Renault dropped coil voltage to 8 running volts).
Blue/Yellow wire bypasses one of the resistors every single time you start the car, at battery voltage of course.
Bill Robertson
#5939
Jonathan
05-09-2016, 07:24 PM
I don't particularly care HOW the circuit melted the connectors, only that they did.
Mine had no double connector on the upper right and instead had one of the four on each corner. I don't recall which wire was in which position, only that leaving it the way it was caused me running problems when the wires fell off (after the connector melted). I put it back the way it was intended, as per the diagram, and it fixed the issue.
Whoever buys this car can go ahead and do whatever they please. I really don't give a shit.
powerline84
05-09-2016, 07:27 PM
I wonder what this car will go for? Looks pretty nice and if I wasn't out of the country I would probably go to the auction.
content22207_2
05-09-2016, 08:21 PM
I really don't give a shit.
Don't get bent all out of shape. I just disagree with your diagnosis.
From the factory there definitely was a double quick connect on the resistor grid input. It powered the relay for the Blue/Yellow bypass wire. Why somebody thought it was necessary to run the starter motor bypass through a relay, rather than connecting Blue/Yellow to the resistor grid directly, is beyond me. Just another layer of unnecessary complexity and another potential failure point, IMHO.
Bill Robertson
#5939
content22207_2
05-09-2016, 08:25 PM
http://specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/resistor-original.jpg
Car pictured has the same double quick connect. Assuming it is powering the starter motor bypass relay, the only difference between the barn car and John's picture is a second wire on the common terminals. Whether that is an input or output wire, it isn't going to melt anything: input would be no different than Blue/Yellow (albeit at charging rather than battery voltage -- still no different than White into the grid), and output of course has no effect on the resistors.
Bill Robertson
#5939
content22207_2
05-09-2016, 08:33 PM
Caveat: if it's a ground wire that would be bad -- a dead short on an unprotected circuit (from the factory ignition has no fuse or circuit breaker).
Bill Robertson
#5939
DMC-81
05-09-2016, 09:11 PM
From the pictures, it looks like it is all there, and in good shape. I wonder what the frame looks like...
In the ad it says "It needs a fuel pump and one of the pistons that helps open the door." I suspect that it will need more than that if you intend to drive it. :)
I'd be curious to see what it will be sold for.
powerline84
05-10-2016, 02:40 AM
I inquired and got sent the same pictures. Here is the info for anyone interested. Nothing more then already known.
The DMC is in excellent condition, owner notes it needs a piston
that helps hold the passenger door open and possibly needs a fuel pump.
Same owner since 1982. You may bid by phone if you pre register with our
book keeper Kathy 603-673-4474.
I may be able to help with transport. You can send some one to survey the
car any time Friday, Saturday or Sunday. Please confirm you received the
pictures
Gary Michael 603-345-3765
powerline84
05-10-2016, 06:18 AM
Vin # SCEDT26T7BD006028
What do you think she is worth? Help appreciated
ILM1010
05-10-2016, 07:33 AM
is there no reserve price?
DMC-81
05-10-2016, 07:36 AM
Vin # SCEDT26T7BD006028
What do you think she is worth? Help appreciated
Just spitballing here, but I'd say mid to high twenties, assuming the underneath looks as good as the rest of the car.
powerline84
05-10-2016, 07:40 AM
I am assuming this is a non running car and I dont know about reserve, I need to call them
powerline84
05-10-2016, 07:54 AM
Non running, there is a reserve, they said "10 grand wont buy it" (which i didn't even ask lol). I think they might have an over inflated idea of what its worth. I feel anything more then 10-15 is overpaying.
Dangermouse
05-10-2016, 08:02 AM
"same owner since 1982" means "original owner" I would say.
Needs fuel pump = needs fuel system rebuild, which you would expect for the sitting for multiple years. It is entirely possible that the owner put those 5000 miles on the car in year 1 and it hasn't turned a wheel since.
I would think high teens to 20k would be a good price considering most of the rubber on the car needs to be replaced, as well as the fuel system. Sorted and running would be high 20s to 30s.
Doesn't look this car a bit 'clean' for being stored all those years? Even the interior looks very nice ...
powerline84
05-10-2016, 07:37 PM
They claim last drove under own power then parked 8 years ago.
powerline84
05-13-2016, 07:17 PM
41964419744197341972419714197041969419684196741966 4196541975
I had a friend go look at the car as I was interested in bidding, unfortunately the frame is completely rotten. It's a shame, cause the rest of the car is pretty nice. After talking to the auction house they have an inflated idea of what its worth. It will be interesting to see what it goes for, apparently a guy in Arizona is bidding on it. They might be in for a surprise.
sdg3205
05-13-2016, 10:08 PM
I see some rust, but not a rotten frame. Is there more we can't see here?
Soundkillr
05-13-2016, 10:09 PM
Among other things, the wheel arch on the right quarter is deformed as well.....
Rich_NYS
05-13-2016, 10:20 PM
I see some rust, but not a rotten frame. Is there more we can't see here?
I was thinking the same thing....maybe it's worse than can be seen in these pics.
powerline84
05-13-2016, 10:24 PM
Yeah sorry i dont have better pics. The frame was bad enough that I backed out.
sdg3205
05-13-2016, 10:34 PM
Yeah sorry i dont have better pics. The frame was bad enough that I backed out.
Smart.
DMC-81
05-14-2016, 08:03 AM
Yeah sorry i dont have better pics. The frame was bad enough that I backed out.
Agreed. That frame/ underside would turn me away as well. The frame and the non runner status should bring the value way down.
Ras12
05-15-2016, 05:24 PM
They started at $20k, bits went to $15k then started up from there. Not sure what it ended up selling for. However, I was told the frame was fine.
powerline84
05-15-2016, 06:04 PM
Well I wouldn't call the frame fine, but I am glad it went to a new home...wasn't the car for me.
Non running, there is a reserve, they said "10 grand wont buy it" (which i didn't even ask lol). I think they might have an over inflated idea of what its worth. I feel anything more then 10-15 is overpaying.
I was a phone bidder and didn't get the car. It sold to a man in the crowd for 22k plus 12% buyers fee.
Mark D
05-16-2016, 11:42 AM
Wow, I can't believe it sold for 22k. I can't tell how bad the rust is on the frame, but pretty much everything under the car has at least surface rust on it. It's definitely going to need some TLC under there to prevent it from getting any worse. With all that exposed metal it could go from just OK to bad pretty quickly.
I sure hope the new owner doesn't expect to throw a new fuel pump in the tank and go for a joyride...
Dangermouse
05-16-2016, 01:16 PM
Just spitballing here, but I'd say mid to high twenties, assuming the underneath looks as good as the rest of the car.
"
I would think high teens to 20k would be a good price considering most of the rubber on the car needs to be replaced, as well as the fuel system. .
well, the average of our estimates would have been spot on :) :8ball:
SamHill
05-16-2016, 02:27 PM
A total of $24640. Seeing cars advertised for much more as well as the perception of what "new Deloreans will cost" can't be hurting values, even for nonrunning cars.
powerline84
05-16-2016, 07:38 PM
Well I think That car went for way to High but you know a car is worth what people are willing to pay for it. Happy for the new owner. Wasn't the right car for me. Seems like values are holding strong.
Rich_NYS
05-16-2016, 10:02 PM
Seems like values are holding strong.
This didn't seem to get a lot of press, even though it was mentioned for sale in another thread. I think it's an interesting indicator:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1981-DeLorean-DMC-12-/172189893188?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&nma=true&si=9FH1LOOvCcbY7ZwiGIZXQaujqiY%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc
Dangermouse
05-17-2016, 08:03 AM
Too much or too little?
That one is quite a project "some assembly required".
I think $9k is a steal, personally. In theory it's in the came mechanical condition as the OP car, only in 100 bits. Spend a few hours reassembling and you are back to square 1. OK, you have that window, fascia, T panel and RFF to fix.
Rich_NYS
05-17-2016, 09:13 AM
Too much or too little?
That one is quite a project "some assembly required".
I think $9k is a steal, personally. In theory it's in the came mechanical condition as the OP car, only in 100 bits. Spend a few hours reassembling and you are back to square 1. OK, you have that window, fascia, T panel and RFF to fix.
It's actually nowhere near the same condition as the OP car; it is missing crucial parts (the owner salvaged parts off it,) and has a few nasty dents in the stainless.
I'm not saying too much or too little.....just pointing out a current indicator. A few years ago it would've been a 5K car.
Dangermouse
05-17-2016, 09:48 AM
well, I guess I should have read the item description then. Shame on me for just looking at the pictures :). Lesson learned.
Rich_NYS
05-17-2016, 08:48 PM
well, I guess I should have read the item description then. Shame on me for just looking at the pictures :). Lesson learned.
From the pics, the frame looks decent, eh? I hope to see the new owner here posting before & after pics...
May81DeLorean
05-15-2017, 02:05 PM
The frame wasn't as bad in person as I thought it would be, I didn't think the bidding would reach the $22k-24k range given the few people present at the boat-themed auction.
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