Evaporator Drain plug hose

[1batt4u]

I never paid attention to the drainage hose until I saw someone mention it.

My hose was sitting between the frame and body all this time as you can see in first pic. Not even sure if it happened sometime during the previous owner had the car, who was the first owner, I am the second owner, or this happened when the company built the car.

My heater air box was a mess any way. Rob Grady rebuilt the entire box for me, I think he even had to use another heater air box. He asked me if my car was in some kind of flood or anything, but my car was a clean California car. Only thing was interior did have water coming in from screen cowl because it was clogged. I guess since the drain plug tube was caught between the frame and body it wasn't really allowing water to drip out.

I saw Dave (Bitsyncmaster) did this mod. Looks Great!! I am going to do the same, unless someone has a better idea? After putting all that work in my car, cleaning, touching up the frame, I do not want water dripping on the frame.

http://i64.tinypic.com/4e22v.jpg

http://i66.tinypic.com/2r7c3ko.jpg

http://i63.tinypic.com/qqaagm.jpg

[content22207_2]

What do you have hanging under the fuel tank closing plate?

FWIW: Generally speaking it's not a good idea to have things hanging below the suspension. One of my pickup trucks used to have an exhaust crossover pipe hanging below the engine cradle. I loaned the truck to a user/abuser, who managed to snag the crossover on something and returned the truck to me like this:

https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/547345_439767312735191_261789806_n.jpg?oh=08d97261 e6ad3253ebf2dd305fa95285&oe=57DC9936

Bill Robertson
#5939

[content22207_2]

returned the truck to me

Correction: I had to go get it (repossess it) myself.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Bitsyncmaster]

That photo is my car where I could not get the AC hose to install in the frame.

Bill is the guy that came up with using an ignition coil boot to replace the OEM drain pipe. I just decided to pipe the water off the frame.

[1batt4u]

That photo is my car where I could not get the AC hose to install in the frame.

Bill is the guy that came up with using an ignition coil boot to replace the OEM drain pipe. I just decided to pipe the water off the frame.

Cool! Yes, saw ur photos in dmctoday and reposted. I will try and do the same

[papanoel]

I've considered doing this mod as well as making it an easier way to to clean out clogs. Mine is currently clogged and seems only option left is to take everything apart to clear the clog.

[content22207_2]

Just cut the factory elbow in half with a hacksaw blade and pull it out as two pieces.

Once the elbow is out of the way you can reach into the evaporator box with your pinky and poke the drain clear.

Coil boot is flexible so you can easily pop it off in the future if necessary.

I stuck my boot into the original body hole without a hose attached and just let condensed water run off the frame (no different than rain water IMHO):

42189

Bill Robertson
#5939

[DMCMW Dave]

Just cut the factory elbow in half with a hacksaw blade and pull it out as two pieces.
Once the elbow is out of the way you can reach into the evaporator box with your pinky and poke the drain clear.
-Bill Robertson
#5939
Careful!! - if you cut too high you may cut the nipple off the heater box. If you warm up the elbow with a heat gun/hair dryer you can pull it down and push it off to the side. Then you can clear the box drain (I use a small pick, Bill must have tiny fingers!) and put it back together without changing any parts if you desire.

If you do cut it anyway, cut as close to the floor as possible.

[content22207_2]

I thought I remembered putting my finger into the drain, but Dave is right -- only the tip will fit. Just use a screwdriver and poke it around (or get one of your children to stick their fingers in it instead).

42191

Bill Robertson
#5939

[mluder]

...only the tip will fit.
Bill Robertson
#5939

Heh... :umm:

Cheers
Steven

[BABIS]

discussed even here http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?13337-General-A-C-Performance-Question/page2&highlight=drain+boot

[dn010]

A long time ago I had my low side hose installed similarly. It rubbed badly on speed bumps and I ended up having to replace it.


What do you have hanging under the fuel tank closing plate?

FWIW: Generally speaking it's not a good idea to have things hanging below the suspension.
Bill Robertson
#5939

[scott]

Team,

I have been reading a lot of the posts trying to figure out if my factory installed drain plug hose may have been pulled off. Is this possible, I can't seem to find it and took a bunch of things apart looking for it. I definetly have a clog as the evap box is filling with water and dripping on the passenger floor. If the drain was pulled off is it possible to fish a new line with the suggested boot back through the factory hole and out under the car, or should I put a new hole in the floor as one of the mods shows? Thanks for the assistance.

Oh one other idea I had is to get an inspection camera and try to run it down next to the fuel lines from the access door or next to the dryer to see if I can find my original hose. Again open to thoughts?

Thanks,
S

[content22207_2]

Evaporator drain hose was attached to the underbody before it was hoisted onto the frame, wherein mine became pinched and totally ineffective. Look closely at Page 254 of Celebrating the Impossible and you can see a one hanging down. If somebody on the assembly line grabbed the hose to keep it positioned as the body was lowered onto the frame you should be able to see the end poking out on the right side of the frame tunnel by the accumulator.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[EdR5150]

I just did this yesterday. The recommended way to clear the clog is to run some weed-wacker cutting line into the hose, and poke around to free the obstruction. Some people have had luck using a vacuum connected to the drain hose. Here's some pictures:
4500145000

This is where the drain hose can been seen in the wheel well. I found the drain hose was loose, and easily pulled off. I don't recommend disconnecting it! I'm not sure mine was connected, and getting it reconnected was going to be very difficult with the AC dryer in the way:
44999

The stock elbow can be cut with a thin saw blade, or gently heated and pried off. The saw method could possibly damage the box or nearby wiring. I opted to use the heat gun, and screwdriver to pry it off. Here’s the reducing elbow, all clogged up:
4500245004

Here's what the whole thing looks like if you decide to remove it:
45003

The only reason you would want to remove everything is if you decide to do the Robertson Bitsyncmaster mods. I've got my own mod coming soon, I just need to test it.


I can't seem to find it and took a bunch of things apart looking for it. I definetly have a clog as the evap box is filling with water and dripping on the passenger floor.

[Bitsyncmaster]

You cut the hose as low as you can and then you can cut the rest off with an exacto knife. Here are photos of the hose I cut off mine. Note the elbow end has been cut below the wider end.

[Andrew]

During my return trip from DCS, I discovered that 5052's drain tube was clogged. Thankfully i was able to clear the clog with a couple shots of compressed air. In fact after the clog cleared about 1 gallon of water came rushing out the tube.

[content22207_2]

I drain through the body hole over the frame (no tubing connected to the coil boot -- coil boot just gets me through the body). The way I see it there's no difference between A/C condensation and rainwater (or even humidity that's in the atmosphere already). I drive my DeLorean in the rain.

If you use a hacksaw blade to cut the elbow off you will know if you're hitting the evaporator box. Elbow cuts like a knife through butter -- virtually no resistance whatsoever.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[DMCMW Dave]

I drain through the body hole over the frame (no tubing connected to the coil boot -- coil boot just gets me through the body). The way I see it there's no difference between A/C condensation and rainwater (or even humidity that's in the atmosphere already). I drive my DeLorean in the rain.

If you use a hacksaw blade to cut the elbow off you will know if you're hitting the evaporator box. Elbow cuts like a knife through butter -- virtually no resistance whatsoever.

Bill Robertson
#5939

If you warm up the elbow with a heat gun/hair dryer, you can pull it down and back off the evap box nipple with no damage at all.

[DMC5180]

If you warm up the elbow with a heat gun/hair dryer, you can pull it down and back off the evap box nipple with no damage at all.


Great tip!

I had to do the compressed air trick twice during my extended vacation traveling following DCS. Its amazing how much water accumulates in the carpet when the housing over flows. Yesterday I did the shop vac thing and removed the carpet to let it dry out in the sun and left the door open all day to let the sun do its thing in there too. I have a small nozzle attachment for my shop vac and used it to vacuum the drain hose from the bottom. I can't really tell if the elbow is clear or not because the elbow has such a small restrictive ID. I was hesitant to remove the elbow because I've heard it's a real PITA to get back in place.

[EdR5150]

I made a one piece clear drain, that drains water away from the frame.
4500745008

Benefits:

Clear tubing allows a clog to be seen easier
Longer tubing allows water to drain away from the frame, reducing frame rust
Eliminates the hard 90 degree elbow, reducing clogs
Larger internal diameter tubing reduces possibility of clogs
Can’t become disconnected in the wheel well
Easier to vacuum or snake out debris
No need to cut or modify the underbody


So far it's working great.
Cost: $12 before shipping and taxes.
How to: http://www.16908.info/?p=3072

[DMCMW Dave]

I made a one piece clear drain,

So far it's working great.
Cost: $12 before shipping and taxes.
How to: http://www.16908.info/?p=3072

That's a great design. In improvement over the original both in form and function.

[DMC5180]

Ed,

What size polyethylene tube did you use? I assume you were able to install the tube through the top. Any tips you care to share on getting it reconnected?


Dennis

[EdR5150]

All in the blog entry! http://www.16908.info/?p=3072

I used this Chemical-Resistant Clear Tygon Tubing: 5/16" ID, 7/16" OD, 1/16" Wall Thickness from McMaster-Carr. I only used this because I had it on hand, leftover from building brake pressure bleeder attachments. Any tubing will probably work fine, but this stuff is very rigid: http://www.mcmaster.com/#5103K35

I used some steam from a tea kettle, some scissors to stretch the tubing open wider, and eventually a 13mm socket to get almost the exact size needed:
45071

I did install it through the top, and I don't think it could be installed through the wheel well. I tried using wires, and coat hangers to guide it, but that wasn't working. I eventually was able to shove it in several inches, then reach behind the dryer and pull it through. The last several inches need rotated correctly, so the nice curve on the tubing falls into place. Once the tubing has been thinned out, it's pretty flexible, so I was able fit it onto the box's drain pretty easily. You can confirm there are no kinks by blowing through the hose. I used about 3 feet of tubing, which is more than enough.

Now I'll wait and see if a vendor copies the design...


What size polyethylene tube did you use? I assume you were able to install the tube through the top. Any tips you care to share on getting it reconnected?

[DMC5180]

Interesting, I thought the tube was as large as the OEM tube. I thought that was about 1/2 inch ID or so by. Eyeballing it.


Dennis