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View Full Version : Engine Oil Pressure Switch came apart while in engine... IDEAS To Get It Out?



nkemp
06-08-2016, 03:43 PM
My oil pressure switch (On driver's side for oil light. ) came apart while I was removing it. Part of it is still in the engine. The part in the engine does not have anything to grab onto. Any ideas how to get it out?

Here is what it is supposed to look like (right) and what mine looks like (Left. The silver can is stuck in the engine)
43563

I know this is a very questionable idea...but I have to ask. What happens if I push the piece into the engine? Will it clear for the new switch? Will it get into other moving parts?

The simplest jobs can go so wrong.

Nick

nkemp
06-08-2016, 04:04 PM
OK... I solved it ...

When I first removed the sensor, the can was a ways in and did not move. So I rethreaded the sensor in and back out. This time I noticed that it came out a bit farther. And when I probed it with a screwdriver it moved.

I got a magnet (one of the really powerful ones from a HDD I had disassembled (doesn't everyone take their broken hard drives apart?). These are super powerful and potentially dangerous if they pinch. But back to the story ... It pulled the can out. The oil remaining had just enough suction that it was holding the can in the hole.

So I'm feeling lucky so far.

dn010
06-08-2016, 04:04 PM
Have you tried a magnet? You can also try to thread the switch in a few turns and start the engine, see if the pressure will push the piece out further but keep rags on hand...

dn010
06-08-2016, 04:09 PM
Posted at the same time you did. Glad you got it out and fixed!

DavidProehl
06-08-2016, 04:34 PM
Scary! Glad you got this figured out!

nkemp
06-08-2016, 06:00 PM
That was a lot harder than it looked. You can see the sensor but can't get to it. Every direction has something in the way. Plus you are working with the cat heat shield and mine is bone dry and crumbly. So soak it down with water or soapy water or a light oil. If you were to remove the shield, it might be worth painting to lock up the fibers.

Also a deep well socket may work better but there may be clearance issues. I didn't have one and the sensor connector tab fits up the square hole blocking the ratchet or extension. I used the extension loose in the end but enough to grab the socket. It took two people, one to line stuff up from below and one to work from the top to ratchet. You can't really see the sensor well from up top. You need the second person to hold the stuff together while the first comes up to do the work. 15/16" works but I suspect that the metric equivalent fits better.

I put the tab on before installing. The tab actually rotates. There are two nuts, one below the tab and one above that tightened to secure the tab. With how hard it is to get to, even though it is right there, I'm not sure how hard it would be to tighten the two nuts together.

That's my post-op report. I hope it fixed the leak!