Door strut bracket recomendations - Grady or Heninger?

[stevedmc]

Today I replaced my door struts and noticed the brackets have a tiny bit of play in them. Lately I have been replacing parts as they break, but I think it would be wise to replace/upgrade this part before it breaks.

As far as I know there are two options. Heninger's retrofit kit (in attached picture) and what Grady is selling. I am not familiar with what Grady has and can't find it on his website.

Obviously, if I do have cracked fiberglass where the stock brackets mount I can still use Heninger's kit without any problems. His product seems like a great idea, but $160 does seem a bit expensive.

I also talked to Hervey and he doesn't sell anything like this. Does anyone have any information about the options? I seem to remember reading something like this on the old forum. Will Grady's still work with cracked fiberglass and is it cheaper?

Heninger's bracket:
http://deloreannewparts.com/store/page14.html

[sean]

From what I know, The Heninger's can be installed without removing the Qtr panel but Grady's does require the removal of the Qtr panel to install. I believe Grady's costs less.

[DMCMW Dave]

There are several options - Grady's reinforcement is good if the fiberglass is not too damaged, or you can make basic fiberglass repairs. The t-panel should be removed. The quarter panel doesn't necessarily have to be removed, but it does have to be lifted up quite a bit.

I have not seen Heninger's in person but it appears that it just goes on from above, but it appears that the geometry may be a bit different. Be careful installing it as you could easily drill holes in the headliner and/or create new leaks.

The third ways is to fabricate a much larger version of the Grady part in the event that the fiberglass is extensively damaged. We (and Toby) have done this for cars in the shop but it's never been assembled and sold as a part.

The fourth way is to dig out the fiberglass and do a complete, proper fiberglass repair and use the OEM parts.

[Chris 16409]

Steve,

I've installed the strut brackets from Heninger and they have been working fine for me. Much easier to install than the one's from Grady. However, if you are the type that wants a stock look (doubt it since you're running a carb) the Grady would be the way to go. I didn't want to be bothered by having to remove the rear quarter panels. Just my two cents.

[tgraham]

I've installed a set of Rob Grady's brackets before - they work perfectly. You'll need a 1/4"-capable (big) riveter to install them (assuming you're using the rivets, as intended... I've heard of some using two M6 rivnuts in lieu of the rivets, but I thought the rivets would be a lot stronger).

Also, I couldn't see any way to install these without removing the fiberglass infill panels that sit right in the way, as well. I suppose you could "modify" those (drill holes in them) for a workaround, but I didn't want to do that.

Travis

[stevedmc]

Steve,

I've installed the strut brackets from Heninger and they have been working fine for me. Much easier to install than the one's from Grady. However, if you are the type that wants a stock look (doubt it since you're running a carb) the Grady would be the way to go. I didn't want to be bothered by having to remove the rear quarter panels. Just my two cents.

I'm more worried about functionality then staying stock. Does it line up perfectly or is it slightly out of alignment?

Have you experienced any leaks on your headliner since installing Heninger's kit?

I do like saving money, but if Heninger's product is easier to install and lasts longer it might be the way to go.


I've installed a set of Rob Grady's brackets before - they work perfectly. You'll need a 1/4"-capable (big) riveter to install them (assuming you're using the rivets, as intended... I've heard of some using two M6 rivnuts in lieu of the rivets, but I thought the rivets would be a lot stronger).

Also, I couldn't see any way to install these without removing the fiberglass infill panels that sit right in the way, as well. I suppose you could "modify" those (drill holes in them) for a workaround, but I didn't want to do that.

Travis

Does Grady include installation instructions with his product? I wouldn't mind seeing a copy of his installation document before making my decision.

I just sent an email to Heninger requesting his install document. With his permission, I will publish it in the resources section so everyone can see.

[tgraham]

Does Grady include installation instructions with his product? I wouldn't mind seeing a copy of his installation document before making my decision.

Not sure, but there's not much to the job:

1) Remove enough of the car to get the old bracket off.
2) Bolt the new bracket on (center two bolts) and drill two holes into the fiberglass underbody where the outer two bracket holes are
3) Install the rivets into the outer two holes (The sound of those 1/4" rivets popping is scary, but the fiberglass should hold)
4) Swap the piston pivot bolt from the old bracket to the new one
5) Put items from step 1 back into place

It takes far more work to get to the brackets than to actually install them. Also, the two bolts attach to a captive nut (technically a captive bracket with two nuts). You may have to align it with a small pick to get the bolts in.

Travis

[dmc6960]

I've installed Grady's brackets and agree with everything Travis has said. I didn't have any fiberglass damage though, my problem was a broken weld on the original bracket. I think the hardest part of my job was finding a big enough rivet gun. Didn't even know they made them that big. Drilling out the original rivets for the plastic infill panel was also a pain (part of step 1 in Travis's directions).

[BTTF-1]

Genrs
I too installed the strut brackets from Heninger and they have been working excellent for over two years. I believe I was the first or one of the first to install them.

We'll after owning my D for maybe two months my door broke. Yes! the driver side door.

What a pain in the Butt.

I almost got divorced over this.

For over a year and a half to get into or out of the car my wife had to hold the door open for me. “Shoot me”

Did I mention what a pain in the AsX it was.

I called Delorean in Florida over that year and a half at least 5 times to get a price to repair this door. I never got any sort of a price.

What can I say I love those guys down there. Yes my D has been in their shop to prove it. “Shoot me again.”

Anyway to save my marriage I searched the net looking for help or for something better. I have learned the hard way if a part is not an original Delorean part it is always much better.

So I came across Heninger. He had developed a new and improved part.” Did I mention Improved.” “Thank you Lord” So I ordered the set for both doors.

So after maybe a month I received the parts. With Heninger on the phone I replaced the part. Yes what a masterpiece. Why fix the original parts the same sorry way it was built originally when they will probably break again. So off I was to fix the passenger side door that was not broken.

Would I do this again? In a Delorean minute. The only thing I would recommend changing in this part would be to make it out of stainless steel rather than carbon steel. Not that it would be a better part it would be a stainless steel part.

A special thanks to Heninger for saving my marriage.
I keep mentioning to my wife to go for a ride in the D. No luck there.
You should see the look on her face when parts come to the door for the D. Oh well that’s another story.

Just another thought in time!
Ed

[BTTF-1]

OOOPPPSSS Typo

"Gents"

:shocked:

[Chris 16409]

I think when I got my brackets they were made out of aluminum. The installation is very easy. Steve, I have not noticed any leaking since I've installed the brackets.

[sean]

I think when I got my brackets they were made out of aluminum. The installation is very easy. Steve, I have not noticed any leaking since I've installed the brackets.

You apply plenty of RTV?

[axh174]

Both of my original strut brackets were bending, the driver's side especially so. I was familiar with both Grady's larger reinforced bracket and also the Heninger solution. I opted for Grady's because I like to get a stock look if possible. I haven't had any problems with them after getting them installed and I love how beefy they are.

I've been told (and have seen pictures that illustrate this) that you can replace your original brackets with the Grady brackets without having to remove the rear quarter panels. In my case, I have an earlier VIN that had the rear holes in the fiberglass body for "air flow" that needed to be filled in so they were coming off anyway.

So yes, a little involved, but the results are nice, stock, and reliable. Heninger's solution, from what I've seen, is elegant and provides just as much support. Though it may cost a little bit more, I think you'll end up recouping the cost in reduced down-time. It sounds like that might be a better solution for you.



*ALERT! Rambling below!*

If you go with Grady's brackets, here are a few things to keep in mind:

1) The T-Panel needs to come off. (this provided excellent opportunity for me to inspect my roof box and preemptively bolt it down should it ever decide it wants to come loose.)

2) The original brackets exist behind the fiberglass infill panels that run along the upper door track (where the strut rests when the door is closed) and Grady's will reside here as well. Getting the infills out wasn't too bad. I cut around the RTV and then used a large flat head to gently break it free from the body. But that also means you need to get some good glue/epoxy to put the infill panels back in. You'll want to chip away all the old epoxy that was originally on them before applying the new. (not too difficult with a even just a flat head screwdriver and hammer, but better with a chisel)

3) Make sure you have a Dremel or similar rotary tool on hand. The bracket has a nut that is welded to the back of it and there is a hole in the fiberglass body for this nut to slip into. The larger Grady brackets I received had huge weld spots for the nuts and the existing holes in the fiberglass body could not accommodate them. If the bracket doesn't fit in snug then the infill panel won't go back in correctly and things will look wonky. So using the Dremel, I expanded the holes to accept the new brackets.

4) You're going to need a pop-rivet tool that can handle 1/4" pop-rivets. These can be a little difficult to come by. The one I used was from Amazon:

Astro-Pneumatic 1/4" Heavy-Duty Riveter (http://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-4-Inch-Heavy-Duty-Riveter/dp/B00061SFDM/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1314545340&sr=8-7)

Lots of length so those 1/4" will pop without much effort. It's a bigger tool, but still plenty of room in the door area to use it. As a bonus, it has a bottle to catch your shanks! =) Also came in handy when replacing my door roof weatherstripping.

Here's one of the sources I used for photos and information on the task:

1561project.com (http://1561project.com/?page=ball-stud)

I'll stop now, but if you need any photos or have further questions, don't hesitate to ask. =)

[stevedmc]

Thanks for all the advice everyone. I think I am going to go with Heninger's brackets. While it does cost more, I am lazy and want something that works better than stock.

Grady's is better than stock but in my opinion it sounds like too much work. I don't mind deviating from stock and I like the idea of a newly designed part. Now I just need to wait until pay day to order the parts.

[BTTF-1]

You will be pleased.

Like I said I would use this after market kit in a Delorean minute. Mine is solid carbon steel. The parts are meaty. Grady's in my opinion is the same part just slightly improved "Thicker metal". You still have the issue of poor design with the surrounding fiberglass. . Fix this only once.

I took a major chance being one of the first. It really is a royal pain not having the ability to enter or leave the D.

Wrench out the old ball tip part thingie and you are ready to go.

Your alignment doesn't have to be a 100 percent dead on.

I have made it a mission to buy aftermarket improved parts manufactured by Delorean owners.

Ed:thankyou:

[stevedmc]

YEAH, I just placed my order for Heninger's part. I'm excited to actually replace something before it breaks.

[stevedmc]

I received my Heninger door strut brackets last week and installed them yesterday afternoon. Installation was very easy and I must say I am very pleased with the result.

[sean]

I received my Heninger door strut brackets last week and installed them yesterday afternoon. Installation was very easy and I must say I am very pleased with the result.

Nice! Got pics?

[stevedmc]

Nice! Got pics?

I'll see if I can take some pictures tonight. The bracket is rock solid. As a simply test I put some fingers on the stud and started pushing/pulling. I was able to rock the car back and forth and the stud/bracket didn't come loose at all. This is one solid bracket.

[stevedmc]

Nice! Got pics?

Late, but as promised. I put a coat of Rustoleum on them today. When I finish being lazy I am going to glue the weather seals back on.

[content22207]

It appears someone decided to paint his fake side vents too. Addictive, isn't it....

Bill Robertson
#5939

[stevedmc]

Painting is very addictive. I want to put a bunch of coats on the trim, sand it, and paint again over the course of a few days.

Hopefully I won't be going on a date tonight. If I do I either have to take off the masking tape to drive the Delorean tonight or drive the other car.

Can you guess which car I use for going on dates?

[content22207]

If she's eco-friendly, you're getting laid tonight.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[stevedmc]

If she's eco-friendly, you're getting laid tonight.

Bill Robertson
#5939

Eventually I am going to sand and paint the Metro. I've got sanding paper and Rustoleum to do the work but I'm just lazy. I was thinking of maybe getting a 50 mpg decal printed up to put on the rear glass too.

Someday I will fix it up. What I really need is a motorcycle. Those things are cheap, get 50 mpg, and look way cooler than a Geo Metro.

[thirdmanj]

Late, but as promised. I put a coat of Rustoleum on them today. When I finish being lazy I am going to glue the weather seals back on.


Yeah! These look great! The laziness factor seems to be worth the price. I think I'm gonnago with a set of these!

[stevedmc]

Yep. They are nice and worth every penny. Henninger might be a little expensive but he makes some really good stuff.

[jawn101]

For what it's worth, since this thread was started Josh at DPI started selling his improved stainless brackets for this. I have a set ordered and they should be here soon. I will post my impressions, pics and install tips after we start working on them! I seriously considered Heninger's for the 'lazy factor' alone - a half hour to install - but ultimately went with Josh's to keep the stock appearance. Now I'm doomed to rear quarter removal.

[stevedmc]

For what it's worth, since this thread was started Josh at DPI started selling his improved stainless brackets for this. I have a set ordered and they should be here soon. I will post my impressions, pics and install tips after we start working on them! I seriously considered Heninger's for the 'lazy factor' alone - a half hour to install - but ultimately went with Josh's to keep the stock appearance. Now I'm doomed to rear quarter removal.

I'm not knocking Josh's product but I honestly don't think stainless is necessary for this application. My 30 year old brackets didn't have a bit of rust on them. The problem was fiberglass that was getting ready to crack.

[jawn101]

I'm not knocking Josh's product but I honestly don't think stainless is necessary for this application. My 30 year old brackets didn't have a bit of rust on them. The problem was fiberglass that was getting ready to crack.

Oh yeah, I don't disagree with you one bit. It's just that Josh makes *everything* in stainless :)

The 'upgrade' part of his brackets are in the design, akin to the Grady ones in that they're larger with more surface area and should strengthen the original configuration.

I definitely like the Heninger configuration - it is simple and elegant, easy to install, repair/replace if necessary, and gets the job done. I waffled over it for a very, very long time.

[thirdmanj]

Like Steve said. It's the "lazy factor" I'll "detract" (which I don't think it does) so long as I don't have to remove a blasted quarter panel. To my knowledge Henninger's are the only ones that install this easily. I'm sure the others are more than adequate, but I mean come on, the time saved and the simplicity is worth it IMO.

[thirdmanj]

Just posted on the "What have you done..." thread. So I'll keep this short. Add another recommendation for Henninger's door strut brackets.

[jawn101]

I haven't installed them yet, but I did receive DPI's brackets in the mail. Comparing them to photos of the OEM ones these are far beefier, extend much further, and look like a million bucks. Too bad no one will ever see them once installed. Also too bad that it's many hours worth of work to do them compared to the Heninger solution. The door brackets are the two with the huge welded nuts on them.

[stevedmc]

Just posted on the "What have you done..." thread. So I'll keep this short. Add another recommendation for Henninger's door strut brackets.

Amen. Notice that it didn't take him weeks to install the product. :)

[Jeremy Popp]

After reading this thread and various other theads, I've decided to buy Heningers product. My driver side door ball stud has been "crooked" since I bought it in 2005. It was always on the back burner as far as projects go, but here are is what I found:
158111581215813

You will notice some pretty bad fiberglass damage, as well as a bent bracket. I decided to go with Heninger because of the severity of the damage. Even if repaired, I don't know if I would trust it.

Here it is complete, but proir to a top coat of paint and RTV:


15814

I actually went ahead and replaced both sides. The passenger side wasn't as bad, but still slighly crooked. There was evidence of a previous fiberglass repair anyway, and now my car appears the same on both sides for cosmetic reasons. I would recomend this option unless you want to keep 100% stock look.

[BTTF-1]

I did the same. Mine have been in place for over 3 years. I would however upgrade the metal to highly polished stainless steel.
Just to show them off. What a masterpiece of engineering.



Just another thought in time!
ED:notworthy::mooning::mooning::notworthy:

[jawn101]

Forgot about this thread, but I did end up using the Heninger brackets as well. I bought and started to install the ones from DPI but due to some bizarre imperfections in my tub, I could not correct the leaning studs even with the new brackets. Byrne was a lovely gent to work with and very helpful, and the brackets are really excellent.

A word to the wise though. Don't remove the ball studs from them. He torques them so they help the angle iron maintain rigidity. I removed one of mine just out of curiosity and ended up having a lot of flex in the bracket as a result. Byrne fixed it for me though...

[Patrick C]

I just discovered my driver side mount is crooked and the fiberglass is cracked. Is everyone still pleased with Henninger's repair? I would much rather go this route than have to remove a quarter panel and re-fiberglass.

[jawn101]

I just discovered my driver side mount is crooked and the fiberglass is cracked. Is everyone still pleased with Henninger's repair? I would much rather go this route than have to remove a quarter panel and re-fiberglass.

Sorry to hear it. Seems like another one of those repairs every owner will probably end up doing eventually.

Heninger's solution is still holding up magnificently for me.

[Patrick C]

Sorry to hear it. Seems like another one of those repairs every owner will probably end up doing eventually.

Heninger's solution is still holding up magnificently for me.

Perfect. Just ordered the set of 2, even though my passenger side seems ok for now. I might replace it out of preventative maintenance.

[JMLaux]

I ended up going with Grady's bracket. I wanted something that wouldn't be obvious as a repair. I didn't like riveting the bracket on so I made my own bracket to replace the one inside the body tub. It may be a little over kill but at least I know these brackets aren't going anywhere and hopefully the larger surface area will distribute the weight on the fiberglass tub a little more evenly.

17423

[Trstno1]

I know.....super old thread.

However, does anyone know of a vendor selling a product like Heninger's lower door strut brackets? I would buy a set but just found out he's officially out of business.

Or

Might anyone have a set sitting around they would like to sell?

My drivers door bracket is bent pretty good and my drivers door has never fully opened on its own since I bought the car. Prior to doing any sort of a torsion bar adjustment I wanted to fix the brackets to see if they would make the difference. I have already replace the struts with sets from multiple different vendor's to no avail. Its either the bent door strut bracket, or a weak torsion bar.

Any help would be greatly appreciated,

[Jonathan]

Are you talking about the ball stud that the lower half of the door strut attaches to? And the reinforcing brackets if those studs get crooked?

I saw these available on the DeLoreanGO website not long ago. I can't comment personally about how well they work, or don't work, only that it is another option.

https://www.deloreango.com/ca/stainless-door-strut-mount-repair-kit.html

[Trstno1]

Are you talking about the ball stud that the lower half of the door strut attaches to? And the reinforcing brackets if those studs get crooked?

I saw these available on the DeLoreanGO website not long ago. I can't comment personally about how well they work, or don't work, only that it is another option.

https://www.deloreango.com/ca/stainless-door-strut-mount-repair-kit.html


I was looking for this version:

54610

It looks like I would not have to mess with the rear quarter panel with that one. Does anyone know if a door would not completely open on its own with that lower ball stud being bent outward? I was hoping to not have to do a torsion bar adjustment.

[jawn101]

You don’t have to take out the quarter panel to use Heningers brackets, but you do have to pull the headliners... which is also a pain. I’m sad to hear he’s hung it up for good - I have his ball stud brackets and they are awesome. It’s how the car should have been designed in the first place, the factory stud design is ludicrous in comparison.

I did originally pull my quarter panels to replace the lower stud with the OEM style (but improved, via DPI) brackets, but found the fiberglass damage around the stud to be more than I was prepared to tackle.

A torsion bar adjustment shouldn’t be so scary to you, they are relatively simple if you build the jig and follow instructions. But should be done only after you’ve replaced the gas struts. If you’ve done that and the door still won’t open right, it’s probably the torsion bar. The studs being pushed out slightly would cause the doors not to reach their full height and/or hang unevenly, but they should still open to their full range on their own. The studs would just constrain that range, slightly.

You do want to fix the studs if they’re pushed out though. Only a matter of time until it breaks free completely, and that’s a bad situation. Sounds like you need to do both jobs.

[Bitsyncmaster]

You don’t have to take out the quarter panel to use Heningers brackets, but you do have to pull the headliners... which is also a pain. I’m sad to hear he’s hung it up for good - I have his ball stud brackets and they are awesome. It’s how the car should have been designed in the first place, the factory stud design is ludicrous in comparison.

I have the Heninger brackets and they came with pop rivets so you don't need to pull the headliners. They do work great. All they are is some angle iron cut and bent a little with a shorter ball stud. You could probably make them yourself.

[jawn101]

I have the Heninger brackets and they came with pop rivets so you don't need to pull the headliners. They do work great. All they are is some angle iron cut and bent a little with a shorter ball stud. You could probably make them yourself.

You’re so right. It was a long time ago so I forgot. You have to pre drill holes for the rivets so if you use a collar on your drill bit to avoid going through the headliner you should be OK. I had my headliner out to bolt down the roof box (and refurb the headliner itself) and conflated the tasks.

[mrpeterman]

Just discovered my Pass side is bent into the body. I loosened the T and quarter to peek in and there is a minor crack starting to develop.
Would something like DPI's or DeloreanGo's strut mount kit bet the best way to go since theres already cracking starting?
I'm leaning towards Josh's kit at the moment.

54746
54747

[Delorean Industries]

Boxed and out on the first shipment in the am!

[mrpeterman]

Boxed and out on the first shipment in the am!
Wow, that is fast, thanks!

[Timeless]

I have the Heninger brackets and they came with pop rivets so you don't need to pull the headliners. They do work great. All they are is some angle iron cut and bent a little with a shorter ball stud. You could probably make them yourself.
I'm in the process of making some brackets now. Planning to bolt through - no rivets. Will report with photos once complete.

[Timeless]

Completed my braces recently as part of roof box bolting service. 1/8" thick steel plates 3M panel bonded to the the body. Black POR-15 coated followed by top coat of Wurth satin black trim paint. 1" long stainless retainer bolts with nyloc nuts and washers top and bottom. Sealed with Lexel applied inside the holes and application on the bolt threads. Let dry for days then poured water on roof bolts and strut bolts with ZERO leakage. (I love Lexel)

Installed fresh powder coated windshield trims (3) and new design DMC door seals and adhesive-backed outer door seals. Also installed a DGo stainless rear finisher. It's a beautiful piece and much stronger/thicker than OE - allowing T-panel tabs much more secure grip and as such no loose T-panel.
70710707117071270713

[mike123]

Forgot about this thread, but I did end up using the Heninger brackets as well. I bought and started to install the ones from DPI but due to some bizarre imperfections in my tub, I could not correct the leaning studs even with the new brackets. Byrne was a lovely gent to work with and very helpful, and the brackets are really excellent.

A word to the wise though. Don't remove the ball studs from them. He torques them so they help the angle iron maintain rigidity. I removed one of mine just out of curiosity and ended up having a lot of flex in the bracket as a result. Byrne fixed it for me though...

Is the door strut retainer screwed into the L-bracket? And does the L-bracket attach to anything on the small side of it? (I see all the attachment points on the long side but it's not clear to me what the short side is doing).

I might try to re-create something like this. I have the feeling I'll need it on my driver side in the next decade. And if it's as simple as a piece of steel with some holes, bent at the end and with the ball stud screwed or welded to it, I might actually be able to accomplish that.

Thanks!

[r00b]

You could always repair the fiberglass if it's cracking, even reinforce it while you're in there. No need for that kind of stuff.

[Timeless]

I might try to re-create something like this. I have the feeling I'll need it on my driver side in the next decade. And if it's as simple as a piece of steel with some holes, bent at the end and with the ball stud screwed or welded to it, I might actually be able to accomplish that.

Thanks!
Yep, simple plate. Honestly, 3M panel bond is SO strong I doubt bolts/screws are 100% necessary - it's added insurance.

[Patrick C]

Is the door strut retainer screwed into the L-bracket? And does the L-bracket attach to anything on the small side of it? (I see all the attachment points on the long side but it's not clear to me what the short side is doing).

I might try to re-create something like this. I have the feeling I'll need it on my driver side in the next decade. And if it's as simple as a piece of steel with some holes, bent at the end and with the ball stud screwed or welded to it, I might actually be able to accomplish that.

Thanks!

Byrne sold two different types of brackets. The original style kept the ball stud at a similar angle to the stock setup. I have this style installed. The later ?Blue Sky? system had the ball stud differently.

https://images.clickpix.org/2LqEID.jpeg
https://images.clickpix.org/2Lq7ZY.jpeg

[mike123]

Thanks guys, this is really helpful. I am planning to do a time machine build and it's going to get very cumbersome to take off the t-panel and the rear headliner, so that's why I'm thinking of either doing a fiberglass-based solution now, or something like the Heninger solution post-conversion.

3M panel bond would be amusing, and might work... but if it fails, that door is coming down HARD and could really hurt someone, or the car itself.

Patrick, I've heard of both versions but that's very helpful to see them. Sounds like the latter "blue sky" version is what needed the longer struts, but the original version would keep the ball stud in the same spot and thus could use the normal struts?

The only thing I might add to that original design is a perpendicular support triangle at the end of the bracket, just to maybe help keep it from twisting. (Although maybe a little flex is a good thing in this... probably better for the bracket to flex than anything else).

Thanks again for sharing!

[Patrick C]

Patrick, I've heard of both versions but that's very helpful to see them. Sounds like the latter "blue sky" version is what needed the longer struts, but the original version would keep the ball stud in the same spot and thus could use the normal struts?

The only thing I might add to that original design is a perpendicular support triangle at the end of the bracket, just to maybe help keep it from twisting. (Although maybe a little flex is a good thing in this... probably better for the bracket to flex than anything else).

Thanks again for sharing!

I believe you are correct—Blue Sky used a longer strut. I think the original design was perfect, used normal struts, and I haven’t noticed any flex at all with it. I’ve had them installed for probably 12 years at this point with no issues.

[mike123]

I believe you are correct?Blue Sky used a longer strut. I think the original design was perfect, used normal struts, and I haven?t noticed any flex at all with it. I?ve had them installed for probably 12 years at this point with no issues.

OK, that is awesome to hear.

Seems very easy to have fabricated... eyeballing it, it looks like 1/8" thick steel?

[Patrick C]

OK, that is awesome to hear.

Seems very easy to have fabricated... eyeballing it, it looks like 1/8" thick steel?

That sounds about right!

[Timeless]

3M panel bond would be amusing, and might work... but if it fails, that door is coming down HARD and could really hurt someone, or the car itself.
Thanks again for sharing!
As I stated, that's why the bolts are there. Myself and others have used panel bond - they aren't moving.

[Bitsyncmaster]

OK, that is awesome to hear.

Seems very easy to have fabricated... eyeballing it, it looks like 1/8" thick steel?

When I got mine I remember saying "I could have built those myself". Yes, it looks like it cut from off the shelf angle iron.

[mike123]

Thanks again guys... I'll take a serious look into this in the spring and get some opinions from the local owners group on whether I am just being paranoid or whether I have the beginning of a real problem with mine. If the latter, I'll draw something up in CAD and start getting some prototypes from SendCutSend :-)

[Timeless]

When I got mine I remember saying "I could have built those myself". Yes, it looks like it cut from off the shelf angle iron.
Exactly what I did. Metal strip from Home Depot, SS strut ball mounts from DMC, cut into 2 pieces, welded ball mounts, panel bonded and bolted. Sendcutsend not required.

[82DMC12]

I just installed the DPI door strut reinforcement plate. It's excellent I did learn the hard way that the threaded part of the insert goes INTO the body, not protruding through the infill plate. I don't know why I got confused but I installed the first one (which was actually the passenger side plate on the driver door), and tested it with a strut and immediately popped the insert out of the bracket. I had to bring it to a machine shop to get it re-set and welded to make sure it doesn't pop out again in case I have to replace the stud. Oops.

Note that you'll need a real man's rivet installer to set in the 1/4" rivets. I bought a Rivet King RK93 on Ebay. I also used it to install 1/4" rivets on the top of the roof box to keep it from ever lifting up.

71254