Reassembling 4728...need assistance.

[Rich_NYS]

I didn't get as many pics as I should have [when I took apart my car,] so I'll post here as I need assistance with miscellaneous where/what/how questions....thanks in advance!


In the pic below:

-What are these two hoses for, and where do they connect? (One is still connected near the gas filler neck, so I know where that one goes.)
-Should I replace them?
-What should I replace them with?


43578

[content22207_2]

Are you talking about hoses attached to the metal lines in the foreground? 3/8" line is brake booster vacuum (plastic tee behind passenger valve cover) and 1/4" line is evaporative emissions (charcoal canister).

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Rich_NYS]

Are you talking about hoses attached to the metal lines in the foreground? 3/8" line is brake booster vacuum (plastic tee behind passenger valve cover) and 1/4" line is evaporative emissions (charcoal canister).

Bill Robertson
#5939

Yes, the hoses connected to the metal lines, thanks...I think I can probably just clean those, agree?

[DMCMW Dave]

-What are these two hoses for, and where do they connect? (One is still connected near the gas filler neck, so I know where that one goes.)
-Should I replace them?
-What should I replace them with?

]

Bill's answer is correct. I have never seen any reason to replace either of them. They never carry liquid.

If you want to replace them "just because", the evap line needs to be fuel rated. The other one is nothing special but be sure you don't get something soft that will collapse. It's a vacuum line.

[DMC-81]

Hi Rich,

Here is a pic of where the 3/8 line goes... To the white fitting on the brake booster (behind the BMC reservoir in the pic). I just needed to clean the hoses. I found that Engine cleaner with silicone was great for the job. Of course, YMMV.

43580

Cheers,

[Rich_NYS]

Bill's answer is correct. I have never seen any reason to replace either of them. They never carry liquid.

If you want to replace them "just because", the evap line needs to be fuel rated. The other one is nothing special but be sure you don't get something soft that will collapse. It's a vacuum line.

Excellent....thanks!




Hi Rich,

Here is a pic of where the 3/8 line goes... To the white fitting on the brake booster (behind the BMC reservoir in the pic). I just needed to clean the hoses. I found that Engine cleaner with silicone was great for the job. Of course, YMMV.

43580

Cheers,


Cool....thanks for the pic. Do you happen to have others [from either side] similar to that one that shows the routing of hoses & wiring harness?

I would swear that I took more pics before I disassembled stuff, but it seems I have a lot of very detailed pics....not many of "the big picture."

[DMC-81]

Cool....thanks for the pic. Do you happen to have others [from either side] similar to that one that shows the routing of hoses & wiring harness?

I would swear that I took more pics before I disassembled stuff, but it seems I have a lot of very detailed pics....not many of "the big picture."

Hi Rich,

Sure, these are ones that I took just now...

43600 43601 43602 43606 43603 43604 43605

The last one needs to be rotated to the left.

Let me know if they are what you needed.

Cheers,
Dana

[Rich_NYS]

Hi Rich,

Sure, these are ones that I took just now...

The last one needs to be rotated to the left.

Let me know if they are what you needed.

Cheers,
Dana

Awesome, thanks man!

[SS Spoiler]

Man, that is the cleanest frame iv'e seen......

[Rich_NYS]

Man, that is the cleanest frame iv'e seen......

Roger that!

Dana's frame is amazing....

[DMC-81]

Thanks guys! :)

[Rich_NYS]

Next question:

How/where is the preferred method of securing the A/C hoses along the frame....just zip-ties?

[Jonathan]

Next question:

How/where is the preferred method of securing the A/C hoses along the frame....just zip-ties?

I'd say likely yes, but have a question for the group with that in mind...

Has anyone been concerned about the sharp side of a zip tie cutting into a hose? Maybe the smaller/thinner zip ties seem to have sharper edges, and specifically ones I used on the auto-bleeder hose going from the bleed nipple near the water pump to the valve at the coolant tank. Maybe hoses in the engine vibrate more than along the frame, but it felt like when I installed it, it was going to be prone to get cut into. Thoughts? Solutions?

[DMC-81]

Yeah, the zip ties are what I replaced that were on the car. The pictures I attached show the placement and color if it matters. I wouldn't be concerned about them cutting in to the hose unless they were too tight or placed in an area where the hose needs to move.

[Rich_NYS]

A list of questions:

In this pic, there's [what looks like] a drain. The circled part has a short length hose on it. I'm wondering what the proper location for the hose is: on top of the hard lines, to the outside of the hard lines, or to the inside of the hard lines?

43638


This part was adhered to the underbody with yellowish silicone (the remains are still on the underbody.) Is the silicone necessary, or only for assembly at the factory? Can/should I put some silicone caulk on it?

43639




I need to get a few clips. The clip for the heater core pipes is SP10381, but I haven't found the part# for this one:


43640


I'm always hesitant to get any plastic or rubber NOS parts, anybody here have feedback on these parts, or suggestions for new replacements?

[Rich_NYS]

I got the number for the clip: SP10392.

Still looking for help with the other stuff....

[Mark D]

I think the first hose is the drain line for the A/C evaporator? I have not yet had to tear into mine but I think that's the line where the condensation drains out.

The body mount reinforcement plates were glued on at the factory so I'm guessing re-gluing it wouldn't hurt since it might reduce your chance for any squeaks and rattles. Structurally I don't think the glue did anything but hold the plate in place so when they were lowering the bodies on they didn't have to try and slip the plates in there at the same time.

[Mark D]

Next question:

How/where is the preferred method of securing the A/C hoses along the frame....just zip-ties?

I zip tied mine so they wouldn't rub on anything and wear through. After my refurb I took my car into DMCMW for an inspection and he recommended checking all of of the fuel tank closing plate bolts to make sure the threaded ends of the bolt were sticking up past the end of the nut welded to the frame. Those would wear through an A/C hose pretty quick. I had a couple that had threads poking past so I either installed a shorter bolt or added an extra washer below the bolt head.

[Nicholas R]

I'm always hesitant to get any plastic or rubber NOS parts, anybody here have feedback on these parts, or suggestions for new replacements?


I got the number for the clip: SP10392.

Still looking for help with the other stuff....

I replaced a lot of those clips and such when I did my body/frame separation. If I recall correctly, everything seemed to be new rather than NOS. I could be wrong, it just seemed like all the plastic was a lot more fresh than 35+ years. I'm sure injection molding these little bits by the thousands is not too expensive so it wouldn't surprise me if they've been re-manufactured. When I did my ground effects I had to buy a bunch of the plastic clips that go in the rocker panels. Without a doubt, those were all brand new.

I bought everything through DMCMW.

[Rich_NYS]

I'm re-installing the driver's side A/C hose & clutch line. What keeps those in place?

I can see they get "zip-tied" together, but is there anything they get tied to?

I got a bunch of heater pipe clips & replaced a few....the passenger side is a no-brainer, but not recalling what held the driver's side stuff in place.

[Lwanmtr]

Duct tape (c'mon, yall wanted to say it......)

[DMC-81]

I'm re-installing the driver's side A/C hose & clutch line. What keeps those in place?

I can see they get "zip-tied" together, but is there anything they get tied to?

I got a bunch of heater pipe clips & replaced a few....the passenger side is a no-brainer, but not recalling what held the driver's side stuff in place.

Hi Rich,

If I recall correctly, the AC hose was fastened to the frame with zip ties / tie straps that had a plastic barb in them to go in a hole in the frame. (SP10382?). I didn't remove the AC hose, but when I installed the SS clutch line, I zip tied it to the AC hose ( snug, but not tight). I also ensured neither hose was in striking distance of the closing plate bolt ends.

Cheers,

[Rich_NYS]

Thanks!

[Rich_NYS]

Hi Rich,

Sure, these are ones that I took just now...

43600 43601 43602 43606 43603 43604 43605

The last one needs to be rotated to the left.

Let me know if they are what you needed.

Cheers,
Dana

Dana, can I trouble you for a few more pics?

I'm looking for a view from inside of each front wheel well so I can see everything from the FFE to the radiator, and also the lower speedo cable routing.

I know I took pics of all this stuff, but having a helluva time finding my own pics -lol

Thanks!

*Edit...I just found which folder had the pics I was looking for, but still interested in the pics mentioned above if it's convenient.

[DMC-81]

Hi Rich. Sure, here goes:

Left
47201 47202

47203 47204 47205

Right
47206 47207

47208

[Rich_NYS]

Thanks Dana!

I'm still wondering; where/how is the lower speedo cable routed? I can see it's to the rear of the suspension, but how is the "slack" routed? Or, do you not have a big loop to deal with on your car?

I think I have too much length (story of my life.) If I keep it all to the rear of the suspension, I have a very big loop. IIRC, 10372's lower cable was routed around toward the front of the suspension.

Dude, your car is always amazing to look at...the view never gets old.

[Lwanmtr]

Not sure if it was correct, but my speedo cable was attached (loosely) to some thing on the wheel hub to support it, then was just hanging from there.
Looking at the parts page on dmc's store, there is supposed to be a bracket on some cars to hold it.

I can try to get some pics later but my wheel isnt off, so hard to get up under there.

[Rich_NYS]

Not sure if it was correct, but my speedo cable was attached (loosely) to some thing on the wheel hub to support it, then was just hanging from there.
Looking at the parts page on dmc's store, there is supposed to be a bracket on some cars to hold it.

I can try to get some pics later but my wheel isnt off, so hard to get up under there.

My caliper has the bracket:

47217

But the lower cable is so long, I have a bigass loopty-loop if I don't route it around toward the front (as seen in the pic.)

[DMC-81]

Thanks Dana!

I'm still wondering; where/how is the lower speedo cable routed? I can see it's to the rear of the suspension, but how is the "slack" routed? Or, do you not have a big loop to deal with on your car?

I think I have too much length (story of my life.) If I keep it all to the rear of the suspension, I have a very big loop. IIRC, 10372's lower cable was routed around toward the front of the suspension.

Dude, your car is always amazing to look at...the view never gets old.

You're welcome Rich. My cable has a big loop from where it exits out the body to the knuckle. It's not overly long. I try not to restrict the gentle loop. There is a metal bracket available to support the cable ( 110528 ) at the knuckle end, but I believe it was vin specific. My vin has a plastic clip SP10396 that I haven't installed yet as it won't clip around my cable. I have a black zip tie that takes it's place for now. I think it's important to use 110528 or something similar to support the cable at that end.

Thanks for the compliment on the car! :)

Edit: I see from the picture posted that you have the SP10396 clip.

[DMCMW Dave]

Replacement lower speedo cables are much shorter.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Rich_NYS]

Replacement lower speedo cables are much shorter.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Aha..! I knew I had too much length!

[refugeefromcalif]

Aha..! I knew I had too much length!

Sorry, but I could make make SO many comments with this...

George

[Rich_NYS]

Sorry, but I could make make SO many comments with this...

George

:thumbup:

[Rich_NYS]

I have the old slave out and ready to install the new one.

Is there anything I can/should inspect while I have the slave out? I can see down in the hole where the clutch fork is.

While on the topic, is there a way to inspect the clutch to determine if I need to replace it? I know it's obvious when driving, but how about when it's on stands with access to the holes in the bell housing?

[David T]

I have the old slave out and ready to install the new one.

Is there anything I can/should inspect while I have the slave out? I can see down in the hole where the clutch fork is.

While on the topic, is there a way to inspect the clutch to determine if I need to replace it? I know it's obvious when driving, but how about when it's on stands with access to the holes in the bell housing?

The "While you are in there" list is short. Replace the plastic line if it is still there with the S/S one, make sure you don't knock any vacuum hoses loose or electrical wires. There is no good way to inspect the clutch short of removing it. Typically if you are replacing the slave you should also replace the master (unless the master was recently replaced). Check the brake fluid in the brake master cylinder. If it is dark and thick looking you should flush and bleed the brakes. Check the rubber bushings in the shift links, if worn, replace. Inspect the front, left engine mount for cracks.

[Rich_NYS]

Thanks David, I replaced the clutch master just before I started on the slave.

Is the fork supposed to feel so "immovable?" I read in a few threads where a pry bar is used for leverage when installing the new slave, but I'm afraid to break something.

[Rich_NYS]

On the driver's side, opposite the starter location (i.e. the spot where the starter would be if it was on the driver's side,) there's a small metal "closing plate" with a tube-looking thing attached.

What is it, and can I safely remove it for painting?

Thanks!

[Lwanmtr]

You mean the plate that gives access into the pontoon?

[David T]

You mean the plate that gives access into the pontoon?

It is a closing plate with a pick-up attached that is connected tot he diagnostic plug. No one ever used it.

[Rich_NYS]

It is a closing plate with a pick-up attached that is connected tot he diagnostic plug. No one ever used it.

Cool, thanks.

[Rich_NYS]

Is this the proper pigtail for a Saturn alternator?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Delco-Alternator-Lead-CS130-CS121-CS144-Wire-Repair-Harness-Connector-86-96-GM-/370839424474?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

[Rich_NYS]

Are the Y-Pipe O-rings DeLorean specific, or can I use something sourced locally?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Are the Y-Pipe O-rings DeLorean specific, or can I use something sourced locally?

They are pretty large. Don't think my assortment kits have them that large.

[David T]

They are pretty large. Don't think my assortment kits have them that large.

There are also supposed to be nylon spacers. If they are missing you can get by by doubling up on the "O" rings.

[Rich_NYS]

Thanks! I don't recall seeing any nylon spacers....where are they located?



Installing an Eagle starter....what do I do with this small wire?

4773047731

[DMC-81]

Are the Y-Pipe O-rings DeLorean specific, or can I use something sourced locally?

Hi Rich,

Are you referring to the coolant y pipe o-rings ( 102146 (http://store.delorean.com/p-6264-seal-o-ring.aspx)) or the air induction w pipe o-rings ( 102283 (http://store.delorean.com/p-6437-o-ring.aspx)) and nylon back up ring ( 102282 (http://store.delorean.com/p-6438-back-up-ring.aspx) ).

I recall the 2 y pipe o-rings looked a normal size that you can maybe match up depending on the stock that your hardware store carries.

Also, speaking of the back up ring, I was able to get a reproduction from the UK. It fit great. Otherwise, as mentioned, you can just double up on 102283.

Cheers,

[Rich_NYS]

Hi Rich,

Are you referring to the coolant y pipe o-rings ( 102146 (http://store.delorean.com/p-6264-seal-o-ring.aspx)) or the air induction w pipe o-rings ( 102283 (http://store.delorean.com/p-6437-o-ring.aspx)) and nylon back up ring ( 102282 (http://store.delorean.com/p-6438-back-up-ring.aspx) ).

I recall the 2 y pipe o-rings looked a normal size that you can maybe match up depending on the stock that your hardware store carries.

Also, speaking of the back up ring, I was able to get a reproduction from the UK. It fit great. Otherwise, as mentioned, you can just double up on 102283.

Cheers,

Y-Pipe O-rings....the O-rings I removed look "square-cut" so I was wondering if there was something special about them.

Thanks!

[DMC-81]

Y-Pipe O-rings....the O-rings I removed look "square-cut" so I was wondering if there was something special about them.

Thanks!

Ok, that's what I thought. Here's a picture of my old o-rings. I remember that they were dried out, stuck in the groove, and flat at the top. I think that was just because it deformed and got baked in that shape. The new one was round and fit in that groove. I don't think it was any special shape, just thick enough to do the sealing job.

47732

The other thing I remember about that area is cleaning the 4 threads in the block with a 7 mm tap really well and using blue locktite on the bolts.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Installing an Eagle starter....what do I do with this small wire?

4773047731

I connected the blue/yellow wire to the white/read wire. That blue/yellow wire turns on the relay which bypasses one of the ignition resistors when the starter is turning.

[Rich_NYS]

I connected the blue/yellow wire to the white/read wire. That blue/yellow wire turns on the relay which bypasses one of the ignition resistors when the starter is turning.

Great, thanks.

[Rich_NYS]

I noticed this small brown wire today, it's on the engine side of the harness that has the group of brown wires going to the alternator....can you help me identify it?

47740

[BABIS]

I noticed this small brown wire today, it's on the engine side of the harness that has the group of brown wires going to the alternator....can you help me identify it?

47740

I guess this is the leftover from the retrofitting of the motorola alternator http://dmcnews.com/bulletins/ST-26-11.81.html

[Rich_NYS]

On my car, the smaller connection on the back of the water pump is 3/4", the small hose that connects to the water return pipe is 3/4", the water return pipe is 3/4", the heater hose that connects the water return pipe to the heater feed tube (along the frame) is 3/4", but the heater feed tube appears to be 5/8".

Can anyone tell me what they have for comparison, and if it's different than what I mention here?

[Bitsyncmaster]

On my car, the smaller connection on the back of the water pump is 3/4", the small hose that connects to the water return pipe is 3/4", the water return pipe is 3/4", the heater hose that connects the water return pipe to the heater feed tube (along the frame) is 3/4", but the heater feed tube appears to be 5/8".

Can anyone tell me what they have for comparison, and if it's different than what I mention here?

My Hervey SS pipe (which I never used) is made with 3/4" OD pipe. I ran 5/8" hose running from the 3/4" pump nipple to the frame. My hose was able to expand over that 3/4" nipple.

[Rich_NYS]

..... I ran 5/8" hose running from the 3/4" pump nipple to the frame. My hose was able to expand over that 3/4" nipple.

That's exactly what I planned to do, but was having second thoughts after my Dad suggested using to use an adapter.

"So far so good" with that setup?

[Bitsyncmaster]

That's exactly what I planned to do, but was having second thoughts after my Dad suggested using to use an adapter.

"So far so good" with that setup?

It's been about 8 years without any problems. I used silicone "heater" hose.

[Rich_NYS]

It's been about 8 years without any problems. I used silicone "heater" hose.

Thanks Dave.

So what I see on my car is the original factory setup? (3/4" hose everywhere.)

I'm interested to know what others are doing as well.....

[Drive Stainless]

Thanks Dave.

So what I see on my car is the original factory setup? (3/4" hose everywhere.)

I'm interested to know what others are doing as well.....


The men push that 5/8" hose over the 3/4" barb with ease. The ladies find an adapter.

[Rich_NYS]

The men push that 5/8" hose over the 3/4" barb with ease. The ladies find an adapter.

lol....got it! I'll use 5/8" all the way. I might even use it for the the larger connection on the back of the water pump....!

:strongman:

[Rich_NYS]

I'm reassembling the coolant pipes on the rear of the car, but didn't get any pics before I disassembled (seemed like it would be common sense.)

Can someone please post pics of everything from this point to the otterstat & header bottle?

Thanks!

48023

[DMC-81]

I'm reassembling the coolant pipes on the rear of the car, but didn't get any pics before I disassembled (seemed like it would be common sense.)

Can someone please post pics of everything from this point to the otterstat & header bottle?

Thanks!

48023

PM sent.

Cheers,

[Rich_NYS]

PM sent.

Cheers,

:thumbup:

[Rich_NYS]

I might put the radiator fan labels back in place (on the FFE.)

Any suggestions on what to use for adhering them to the frame?

[DMCMW Dave]

I might put the radiator fan labels back in place (on the FFE.)

Any suggestions on what to use for adhering them to the frame?

3M Spray Adhesive

[Rich_NYS]

What/where do these connect to? Thanks!

485914859248593

[David T]

Looks like the heater valve. Find the small black plastic hose coming from the console. Should see it coming out of the front, left pontoon in the engine bay. Should be a short rubber hose on the end to fit over the nipple on the valve.

[Jonathan]

What/where do these connect to? Thanks!

485914859248593

Hey, you got the car fixed up nice Rich!!

That first picture is showing the O2 sensor (reference) ground.

See description in Dave's last paragraph: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?3285-Cleaning-up-wiring-post-EFI-conversion-questions-regarding-certain-wiring&p=45139&viewfull=1#post45139

I relocated mine slightly because there was a broken off chunk of screw in the hole it is supposed to go in (red arrow versus where you can see the red wire).

Not so sure you need yours anymore with the carb conversion (didn't realize your restoration was removing the K-jet until recently... looks really nice though overall with all the work you've done).

48596

[Rich_NYS]

Looks like the heater valve. Find the small black plastic hose coming from the console. Should see it coming out of the front, left pontoon in the engine bay. Should be a short rubber hose on the end to fit over the nipple on the valve.

Thanks David..


Hey, you got the car fixed up nice Rich!!

That first picture is showing the O2 sensor (reference) ground.

See description in Dave's last paragraph: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?3285-Cleaning-up-wiring-post-EFI-conversion-questions-regarding-certain-wiring&p=45139&viewfull=1#post45139

I relocated mine slightly because there was a broken off chunk of screw in the hole it is supposed to go in (red arrow versus where you can see the red wire).

Not so sure you need yours anymore with the carb conversion (didn't realize your restoration was removing the K-jet until recently... looks really nice though overall with all the work you've done).

48596

Thanks Jonathan, it had the K-jet removed & carb manifold installed when I bought the car.

It's coming along well, I expect to start it this weekend.

[Rich_NYS]

The DMC oil filters I have each came with a copper "O-ring"....anybody know what they're for?

They're too small (repeat: too small) to fit on the threaded fitting that the oil filter screws onto.

[Jonathan]

The DMC oil filters I have each came with a copper "O-ring"....anybody know what they're for?

They're too small (repeat: too small) to fit on the threaded fitting that the oil filter screws onto.

Those are usually the oil pan drain plug seal that they include.

(...same copper sealing o-ring used on both engine block coolant drains, the final drive fill and drain plugs, and the auto trans fluid pan drain plug. Six places in all.)

[Rich_NYS]

Those are usually the oil pan drain plug seal that they include.

(...same copper sealing o-ring used on both engine block coolant drains, the final drive fill and drain plugs, and the auto trans fluid pan drain plug. Six places in all.)

Thanks Jonathan, I forgot about that!

[Rich_NYS]

Here are a few links to videos from the past two days, it's the first time the engine is running again since last year when I posted about a rapping noise that was isolated to the center area of the passenger-side valve cover. I found a plugged oiler orifice in the exact location of the noise, removed the rocker assembly, thoroughly cleaned all orifices, and adjusted all valves before re-assembly.

Maybe it's wishful thinking, but to me, the lifter noise sounds less severe than before I cleaned out the oiler orifices and seems to improve as the engine warms. I also think the noise isn't isolated to one spot like it was before, so that has me optimistic. Could also be my imagination, but it sounds slightly improved in the 2nd video vs. the first.

Although I just adjusted the valves, I want to believe it's possible I wasn't properly referencing TDC and maybe I need to calibrate the gauge on the front cover & re-adjust the valves.

I can really use an expert opinion or two with this....thanks!

1-29-17:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5o5h31l2wgvpi38/1-29-17.mp4?dl=0


(This is the better of the two)
1-30-17:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3rkg4jffsp751zs/1-30-17.mp4?dl=0

[Rich_NYS]

Tonight I found cylinder 4 isn't firing. I'm still thinking I have the valve adjustment screwed up. I'm going to adjust the valves again, this time without referencing TDC on the scale on the front cover.

Here's another video, it's shortly after I started the car tonight....running on 5 cylinders:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/s3c8tunmxr4oysk/2-1-17_Cold_Idling.mp4?dl=0

[DMC-81]

Hi Rich,

I'm glad that you got it running and I hope you can get the noise/valve adjustment sorted out.

Do you suspect that your timing or timing mark is off?

[Rich_NYS]

Hi Rich,

I'm glad that you got it running and I hope you can get the noise/valve adjustment sorted out.

Do you suspect that your timing or timing mark is off?


Thanks Dana!

I'm thinking either the timing plate on the front cover is off and/or I didn't do a proper adjustment.

Tonight I adjusted the valves one at a time without referencing the timing plate and found a few out of adjustment. It sounds much better now, and cylinder 4 is firing as well.

I'll post a video this weekend....

[Rich_NYS]

My fuel level sender needs to be replaced....what are the available options?

[Lwanmtr]

I think you can get an oem one..or get the newer fuel pump with sender built in.

[powerline84]

My fuel level sender needs to be replaced....what are the available options?

I just bought the dmc Combo unit for my car. I really like it install wise it was a well put together unit.

[Rich_NYS]

Today I bled my clutch; I had my daughter work the pedal while I was at the slave. It didn't push the fluid out with much force, just kinda oozed out.

Current state:
-The pedal goes to the floor.
-I can shift through the gears [while the engine is running] without using the clutch (the car is on stands.)
-The wheels spin while the car is in neutral, but I can stop them with by hand.

When I first bought the car:
-The PO sent me a video shifting through all gears before I bought it.
-I drove it in 1st & reverse (from my driveway into my garage.)

Work I've done up to this point:
-Rebuilt the clutch master
-Replaced the clutch slave
-Replaced the reservoir hose





(I also think I have a bent axle, but not 100% sure yet.)

[Lwanmtr]

Huh..sounds odd...Im no expert, but I dont think the wheels otta spin when in neutral. Even on stands shifting should require the clutch...at least the manuals I had did.

[Drive Stainless]

New clutch hose from master --> slave?

All of that sounds OK to me except for the 'oozing out' part. Maybe your daughter pushes the clutch like a girl? :)

[Rich_NYS]

New clutch hose from master --> slave?

All of that sounds OK to me except for the 'oozing out' part. Maybe your daughter pushes the clutch like a girl? :)


Yes, stainless line from master to slave.

Shifting without the clutch while the engine is running sounds OK?

I was expecting the fluid to shoot out like when bleeding brakes...is that how it should go?

My daughter definitely pushes the clutch like a girl, but she's extra strong like her Dad -lol

[Drive Stainless]

Shifting without the clutch while the engine is running sounds OK?



NOPE. Are you sure the slave is moving in/out when you press the pedal and not stuck outward?

[Mark D]

It sounds to me like you still have a bunch of air trapped in your clutch hydraulics. Do you have a pressure bleeder for the brake master cylinder? You can use the same type of bleeder for the clutch master, you just need to get a rubber plug that fits into the reservoir to attach to the bleeder, or just use your hand with some pressure to hold the bleeder cap down on the reservoir opening while pressurizing it. It sounds like you've got a helper so you don't have to try and get a leak free seal on the reservoir if you've got someone to open the bleeder and pump the pedal a few times while you hold the cap sealed to reservoir.

I posted in a different thread a while back about the pressure bleeder I built from a cheap garden sprayer. You can also just buy one on Amazon too, someone posted a link in that same thread.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?7264-Questions-About-Bleeding-the-Brakes&p=106069&viewfull=1#post106069

If the clutch master/slave were totally dry when you installed them sometimes it's difficult to force that big plug of air in the master all the way through the system just by pumping the pedal. Pressurizing at the reservoir when bleeding is a sure fire way to get rid of all the air in the system.

When I did my car I pressurized the reservoir, cracked the bleeder at the slave, and then gave the pedal a few pumps. It only took a few seconds to see bubble free fluid coming out of the clear tube I had attached to the bleeder on the slave.

[Mark D]

Couldn't edit my post above, but here's a link to McMasterCarr for the pressure gauge I ended up buying for my bleeder. I got the 0-30PSI range gauge PN 3846K62

https://www.mcmaster.com/#3846k6/=16bx23i

[Rich_NYS]

It sounds to me like you still have a bunch of air trapped in your clutch hydraulics. Do you have a pressure bleeder for the brake master cylinder? You can use the same type of bleeder for the clutch master, you just need to get a rubber plug that fits into the reservoir to attach to the bleeder, or just use your hand with some pressure to hold the bleeder cap down on the reservoir opening while pressurizing it. It sounds like you've got a helper so you don't have to try and get a leak free seal on the reservoir if you've got someone to open the bleeder and pump the pedal a few times while you hold the cap sealed to reservoir.

I posted in a different thread a while back about the pressure bleeder I built from a cheap garden sprayer. You can also just buy one on Amazon too, someone posted a link in that same thread.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?7264-Questions-About-Bleeding-the-Brakes&p=106069&viewfull=1#post106069

If the clutch master/slave were totally dry when you installed them sometimes it's difficult to force that big plug of air in the master all the way through the system just by pumping the pedal. Pressurizing at the reservoir when bleeding is a sure fire way to get rid of all the air in the system.

When I did my car I pressurized the reservoir, cracked the bleeder at the slave, and then gave the pedal a few pumps. It only took a few seconds to see bubble free fluid coming out of the clear tube I had attached to the bleeder on the slave.

Thanks Mark,

I saw that post, looks like a great job you did but I was trying to do it without needing a pressure bleeder....maybe it's a necessity I should commit to.



NOPE. Are you sure the slave is moving in/out when you press the pedal and not stuck outward?

I just took a few pics:

4892848929

Gonna sleep on it and pick up again in the AM.

Thanks!

[Mark D]

Thanks Mark,

I saw that post, looks like a great job you did but I was trying to do it without needing a pressure bleeder....maybe it's a necessity I should commit to.


I just took a few pics:

4892848929

Gonna sleep on it and pick up again in the AM.

Thanks!

Sleeping on it may actually help too since any air bubbles will have a chance to work their way to the bleeder. If you're hoping to not have to go the pressure bleeder route then you can have you daughter try and give the pedal some firmer pushes to try and work the air from the master. Once all the air is out you should see a pretty steady stream of brake fluid coming out of the bleeder. If it's just dribbling out now it's probably because piston in the master is sloshing through air/fluid mix.

Pressure bleeders are great though :-) I've used mine on my wife's explorer and my jeep since I built it for the DeLorean. Add that to the "crap Mark convinced me to buy" column lol

[DMC-81]

Sleeping on it may actually help too since any air bubbles will have a chance to work their way to the bleeder. If you're hoping to not have to go the pressure bleeder route then you can have you daughter try and give the pedal some firmer pushes to try and work the air from the master. Once all the air is out you should see a pretty steady stream of brake fluid coming out of the bleeder. If it's just dribbling out now it's probably because piston in the master is sloshing through air/fluid mix.

Pressure bleeders are great though :-) I've used mine on my wife's explorer and my jeep since I built it for the DeLorean. Add that to the "crap Mark convinced me to buy" column lol

+1. The funny thing is that I had my daughter help me bleed the clutch too. We couldn't get the pedal to firm up, and it turned out they there was air in the line. I borrowed a pressure bleeder from Auto Zone and that made the difference on the next try.

Good Luck.

[Rich_NYS]

Better pics of the fork travel:

4893548936

[Rich_NYS]

It sounds to me like you still have a bunch of air trapped in your clutch hydraulics. Do you have a pressure bleeder for the brake master cylinder? You can use the same type of bleeder for the clutch master, you just need to get a rubber plug that fits into the reservoir to attach to the bleeder, or just use your hand with some pressure to hold the bleeder cap down on the reservoir opening while pressurizing it. It sounds like you've got a helper so you don't have to try and get a leak free seal on the reservoir if you've got someone to open the bleeder and pump the pedal a few times while you hold the cap sealed to reservoir.

I posted in a different thread a while back about the pressure bleeder I built from a cheap garden sprayer. You can also just buy one on Amazon too, someone posted a link in that same thread.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?7264-Questions-About-Bleeding-the-Brakes&p=106069&viewfull=1#post106069

If the clutch master/slave were totally dry when you installed them sometimes it's difficult to force that big plug of air in the master all the way through the system just by pumping the pedal. Pressurizing at the reservoir when bleeding is a sure fire way to get rid of all the air in the system.

When I did my car I pressurized the reservoir, cracked the bleeder at the slave, and then gave the pedal a few pumps. It only took a few seconds to see bubble free fluid coming out of the clear tube I had attached to the bleeder on the slave.


The clutch reservoir cap is a different size than the brake reservoir, the bleeder Alex got appears to fit the brake reservoir. I'd like to buy one but I'd want to be able to bleed both systems.

[FABombjoy]

For the Promotive bleeders, the VW cap that's given as a xref to bleed the clutch is a fairly sketchy match. At least on my 82. Maybe it holds better on the earlier cars.

It works but the cap just barely hold the reservoir threads. I rolled a large o-ring onto the reservoir threads to help the cap grab and that did help. I think I could max the tank out at about 5psi.

For bleeding/flushing brakes it absolutely rules. After years of messing with the DMC brakes, I have a new process for flushing and it takes no time at all with the Promotive.

[Rich_NYS]

For the Promotive bleeders, the VW cap that's given as a xref to bleed the clutch is a fairly sketchy match. At least on my 82. Maybe it holds better on the earlier cars.

It works but the cap just barely hold the reservoir threads. I rolled a large o-ring onto the reservoir threads to help the cap grab and that did help. I think I could max the tank out at about 5psi.

For bleeding/flushing brakes it absolutely rules. After years of messing with the DMC brakes, I have a new process for flushing and it takes no time at all with the Promotive.

So, if I was to buy one for bleeding the clutch & brakes, what would I need? Is the brake reservoir cap universal and I'd just need to get a clutch reservoir cap that fits?

[Mark D]

The clutch reservoir cap is a different size than the brake reservoir, the bleeder Alex got appears to fit the brake reservoir. I'd like to buy one but I'd want to be able to bleed both systems.

When making mine I used a cross reference cap for the brake master (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/brake-master-cylinder-cap/34321164039/) and drilled a hole in the cap that fit the brass fitting on my pressure bleeder. I set it up so I could pretty easily remove the cap and swap to different types so I could use it for the DMC, Ford, Jeep, etc that all had different caps. That one from ECS tuning cross references to lots of old BMW's and fits the DeLorean perfectly.

What I ended up doing for the clutch was buying a rubber plug instead of trying to find a cap to fit. The OE part number for just the cap is 106901 but it's NLA and you'd have to buy the whole reservoir from DMC to get a cap. I couldn't ever cross reference anything else with that size cap so I wedged a little tapered plug in there and it worked out pretty well. I don't have a photo of the exact one I used, but it basically looks like this:

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=48938&d=1487011675

One of the advantages of building your own bleeder vs buying is that it's easier to swap fittings and caps since it's all pieced together anyway. Instead of buying a bleeder that you'll only be able to use with one type of cap you can make a one size fits all bleeder just by buying a 5 dollar cap and drilling a hole in it.

EDIT:
Here's a link to a cheapo sprayer on Amazon that would work great for building a pressure bleeder. I got mine from the hardware store for around 15 bucks and then shopped around for the small brass fittings and some rubber hose as I walked through the store. Basically built it there in hand loosely as I cruised through the store, then disassembled it to pay for all the pieces. The only gauge they had was 0-250 psi so I bought that 0-60 psi gauge later on from McMaster.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E28UQU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Rich_NYS]

When making mine I used a cross reference cap for the brake master (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/brake-master-cylinder-cap/34321164039/) and drilled a hole in the cap that fit the brass fitting on my pressure bleeder. I set it up so I could pretty easily remove the cap and swap to different types so I could use it for the DMC, Ford, Jeep, etc that all had different caps. That one from ECS tuning cross references to lots of old BMW's and fits the DeLorean perfectly.

What I ended up doing for the clutch was buying a rubber plug instead of trying to find a cap to fit. The OE part number for just the cap is 106901 but it's NLA and you'd have to buy the whole reservoir from DMC to get a cap. I couldn't ever cross reference anything else with that size cap so I wedged a little tapered plug in there and it worked out pretty well. I don't have a photo of the exact one I used, but it basically looks like this:

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=48938&d=1487011675

One of the advantages of building your own bleeder vs buying is that it's easier to swap fittings and caps since it's all pieced together anyway. Instead of buying a bleeder that you'll only be able to use with one type of cap you can make a one size fits all bleeder just by buying a 5 dollar cap and drilling a hole in it.

EDIT:
Here's a link to a cheapo sprayer on Amazon that would work great for building a pressure bleeder. I got mine from the hardware store for around 15 bucks and then shopped around for the small brass fittings and some rubber hose as I walked through the store. Basically built it there in hand loosely as I cruised through the store, then disassembled it to pay for all the pieces. The only gauge they had was 0-250 psi so I bought that 0-60 psi gauge later on from McMaster.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E28UQU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks Mark,

I'll probably build one like yours and add it to the list of "extra crap Mark convinced me to buy" -lol.


What's the purpose of the pressure gauge? Is there a specific pressure necessary?
Seems to me, as long as the fluid is getting pushed out, that should be fine....


BTW, take a look at this:

48939

It's the cap from the Valvoline brake fluid bottle, it fits almost perfectly.....brah!

[Mark D]

Thanks Mark,

I'll probably build one like yours and add it to the list of "extra crap Mark convinced me to buy" -lol.


What's the purpose of the pressure gauge? Is there a specific pressure necessary?
Seems to me, as long as the fluid is getting pushed out, that should be fine....


BTW, take a look at this:

48939

It's the cap from the Valvoline brake fluid bottle, it fits almost perfectly.....brah!

That's awesome! Put a little rubber gasket under that cap so it's got an air tight seal and you're good to go. One from a garden hose looks like it might be about the right size. I tried just about every cap from every bottle I had in the garage and recycling bin at the time and couldn't find anything that fit, so I went with the rubber plug idea. If that cap threads on and can hold a couple pounds of pressure you're good to go.

The pressure gauge isn't absolutely necessary, but it gives you some idea of how much pressure is built up inside the sprayer to make sure you're not over pressurizing the brake/clutch reservoir. The brake reservoir especially just has those two little donut seals where it it clips into the master cylinder with the two pins. Apparently those are not designed for much pressure and can be overcome and leak fluid if the reservoir is pumped up too high.

As an alternative to the hand sprayer pump, if you've got an air compressor you could regulate the pressure down to a 10-15 PSI and use that instead.

[Rich_NYS]

That's awesome! Put a little rubber gasket under that cap so it's got an air tight seal and you're good to go. One from a garden hose looks like it might be about the right size. I tried just about every cap from every bottle I had in the garage and recycling bin at the time and couldn't find anything that fit, so I went with the rubber plug idea. If that cap threads on and can hold a couple pounds of pressure you're good to go.

The pressure gauge isn't absolutely necessary, but it gives you some idea of how much pressure is built up inside the sprayer to make sure you're not over pressurizing the brake/clutch reservoir. The brake reservoir especially just has those two little donut seals where it it clips into the master cylinder with the two pins. Apparently those are not designed for much pressure and can be overcome and leak fluid if the reservoir is pumped up too high.

As an alternative to the hand sprayer pump, if you've got an air compressor you could regulate the pressure down to a 10-15 PSI and use that instead.

-I ordered the pressure sprayer you recommended yesterday, it'll be here tomorrow.

-I'm going to use a tire pressure gauge, the dial goes to ~60PSI. The fitting is threaded.

If you have additional info on your setup, please post here or add to your thread....I need to figure out what else I need (and where to get it.)

Thanks!

[Mark D]

-I ordered the pressure sprayer you recommended yesterday, it'll be here tomorrow.

-I'm going to use a tire pressure gauge, the dial goes to ~60PSI. The fitting is threaded.

If you have additional info on your setup, please post here or add to your thread....I need to figure out what else I need (and where to get it.)

Thanks!

If you're looking to build something close to what I did, there are only a few parts you'll need. My tee was slightly oversized at 3/8" NPT so I had to use a few reducer bushings to drop the size to 1/4" NPT for my other smaller fittings. If you used a 1/4" NPT tee then you'd have less parts to buy. Here's a MSPaint diagram showing what you'd need.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=48941&d=1487104048


All the parts can be sourced from any hardware store, McMasterCarr, or Amazon has all these fittings too. You can probably shop around to find cheaper than amazon, but here are links so you know what each looks like:

1/4" NPT to hose barb: https://www.amazon.com/Anderson-Metals-57001-Fitting-Adapter/dp/B002SAO7XQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487103912&sr=8-1&keywords=1%2F4%22+npt+hose+barb

Tee: https://www.amazon.com/Anderson-Metals-Fitting-Barstock-Female/dp/B00GVLGULA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487103645&sr=8-1&keywords=1%2F4%22+npt+tee

Male-Male Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Anderson-Metals-56122-Fitting-Nipple/dp/B003NXYB5Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487103673&sr=8-2&keywords=1%2F4%22+npt+male+male

Brake Master Cyl Cap: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/brake-master-cylinder-cap/34321164039/
(Use your Valvoline brake fluid cap here for the clutch)

1/4" to 3/8" Bushing: https://www.amazon.com/Forney-75535-Fitting-Bushing-4-Inch/dp/B003X5Q8DM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487103722&sr=8-2&keywords=1%2F4%22+npt+3%2F8+bushing

To swap caps to bleed the clutch all you need to do is remove the reducing bushing from below the cap and unthread the plastic cap from the male/male adapter. When drilling the hole in the cap make it small enough so that the brass fitting will actually screw into it and cut threads vs a thru hole. The goal is to sandwich the cap between the fitting on top and the bushing on the bottom.

For the gauge it sounds like you've got a good 0-60 tire pressure gauge you can use, otherwise the link for the other one from McMaster is a few posts back. Hope that helps :wrenchin:

[Rich_NYS]

Thanks Mark....yerthefriggin' man!

[David T]

I dislike using these type pressure bleeders. The reservoir is not meant to be pressurized and to refill with more fluid as the bleeding proceeds you must release the pressure, undo all of the connections, fill with fluid, reassemble the pressure bleeder and then re pressurize. I have also seen where, when it does not fit well, it comes apart while pressurized and you get a fountain of brake fluid all over the place. My bleeder of choice is what they call the "One Man Bleeder". It is just a short piece of hose with a check valve. There are fancier ones with adapters to fit different bleeder nipples, bottles, etc. They range in price from just a few dollars to many dollars. Very simple to use and you can add fluid to the reservoir by just removing the cap. Works very well on the Delorean brakes and clutch and you can do it without a helper.

[FABombjoy]

to refill with more fluid as the bleeding proceeds you must release the pressure, undo all of the connections, fill with fluid, reassemble the pressure bleeder and then re pressurize
Not with the Promotive bleeder. Probably not a garden sprayer bleeder either if you build it the same way.

I rebuilt and refit all 4 calipers last summer. Filled the reservoir, filled the pressure tank, pumped it to the recommended pressure and went corner to corner without touching the cap once. Pumped up the pressure between wheels but that was it. The Promotive keeps the master topped off. It was a life affirming experience.

Same way on the clutch flush (once I got the cap to work). Fill, pressurize, roll under car, attach hose to bleeder, open valve, contemplate dinner, close valve.

[Rich_NYS]

I finished assembling a pressure bleeder & bled the clutch again and it worked great. I have a pedal now, and the clutch fork has a lot more travel.

I still have the other issue I'm working on: the transmission acts like it's detached from the engine.

Thanks Mark!


It cost about $30 max to build the pressure bleeder:

4898648987

[Andrew]

Rich, Have you had the transmission seperated from the engine at any point?

[Rich_NYS]

Rich, Have you had the transmission seperated from the engine at any point?

No sir...

[Andrew]

Okay, that's good. I was worried that something might be going on with the clutch fork or throwout bearing. Since it was running and driving back when it was in Alabama, I can't imagine that the clutch itself went bad from sitting.

[Rich_NYS]

Everything's working fine since putting the car on the ground!

Thanks everyone!

[Lwanmtr]

Cool...And yep, cars work better on the ground, they go faster that way ;)

[Rich_NYS]

-I need to fix some wiring and found the links to the popular wire suppliers, but wondering what type of wire it is [that I need to order.] Is it "thin-walled PVC?"

[Bitsyncmaster]

-I need to fix some wiring and found the links to the popular wire suppliers, but wondering what type of wire it is [that I need to order.] Is it "thin-walled PVC?"

I like to get 300 volt PVC wire for my car work. The thinner walled wire makes it more flexible and smaller cable bundles.

[Rich_NYS]

What are the options for a fuel sender replacement? Mine is physically broken.

[Mark D]

There's DMCH's combo unit, but if your fuel pump is fine it's kind of a waste of money to replace it just so you can get a level sender.

Hervey has some crossover SS sender from a Yugo or god knows where, it apparently works for the gauge but does not have a switch for the low fuel light.

I've heard of some people rebuilding their broken original senders by re-wrapping new wire. I guess it depends on how yours is broken.

I've got a Tankzilla sending unit installed that came with my car when I bought it, but those have been out of production for close to a decade now.

Maybe Josh at DPI has some other solution that he uses on his cars?

[Rich_NYS]

Anybody know what this is?

4969249693

It came out of the duct as seen in these pics:

4969449695

[painterdave72]

Its the flap that closes off airflow in the door vent. It goes in the bottom of the vent mounted in the door panel.

[Rich_NYS]

Its the flap that closes off airflow in the door vent. It goes in the bottom of the vent mounted in the door panel.

Thanks/ :thumbup:

[Rich_NYS]

Anybody have a pic of the piece I'm missing here, or a good view of the vacuum actuator (101752?)


49736

The part that connects the actuator to the white piece (105066) appears to be part of the vacuum actuator that's broken off....wondering if I can repair it.

It's part of the air distribution housing (101367.) There's a pic on the DMC website, but it's not a very good view (in addition to being upside-down.)

[Lwanmtr]

Where is that located?

[Rich_NYS]

Where is that located?

Behind the radio, the pic I posted is a side view from the passenger side.

[Lwanmtr]

If I get chance later I'll try to get a pic for you.

[Rich_NYS]

If I get chance later I'll try to get a pic for you.

Thanks Rob....

[Lwanmtr]

Here's a pic...If it's too blurry I can try again tomorrow...a pain to see it up there cause my dash is still all together.

49747

[Rich_NYS]

Here's a pic...If it's too blurry I can try again tomorrow...a pain to see it up there cause my dash is still all together.

49747


Thanks Rob, that helps.

It appears the piece is broken off "inside" the actuator...might be a tough fix.

[Lwanmtr]

Cant imagine it would be too expensive a part (but then I been wrong before..hehe)

[Rich_NYS]

Cant imagine it would be too expensive a part (but then I been wrong before..hehe)


That part isn't sold separately....gotta buy (and replace) the air distribution housing with the actuator attached. (~$90 before S&H.)

[Lwanmtr]

Ouchie. Maybe you'll be able to glue something in there...though looking at it, doesnt look like there's much to glue to

[Rich_NYS]

For anyone who knows [without guessing, please:]

Does this actuator only open & close the center console vents, and affect nothing else?

With the actuator linkage broken and the vent propped open, I'd have full-time air through the vent....correct?

I'm guessing that's the only thing it affects.

[Rich_NYS]

Anybody have a pic of the piece I'm missing here, or a good view of the vacuum actuator (101752?)


49736

The part that connects the actuator to the white piece (105066) appears to be part of the vacuum actuator that's broken off....wondering if I can repair it.

It's part of the air distribution housing (101367.) There's a pic on the DMC website, but it's not a very good view (in addition to being upside-down.)


Wow, nice bit of luck today. I was looking through the small pile of stuff I cleaned out of the car when I first bought it and found the broken-off piece of the actuator. 2 years ago when I bought the car & cleaned it out, I remember seeing that piece & thinking: "I wonder WTH that thing is?!"

Gotta get lucky sometimes!

I used superglue to hold it together while I work on a permanent, reinforced fix.

5017750178

[Lwanmtr]

Cool...hopefully the glue holds. Always good to keep them wtf peices, til you're sure they're for a volkswagon scirocco or something...hehe.

[Rich_NYS]

This is my drivers window in the fully-closed position, can this gap be fixed by adjusting?

50522

[Lwanmtr]

does it seem to slip or angle while its going up at all? Looks like it slipped on the carrier to me.

[Rich_NYS]

does it seem to slip or angle while its going up at all? Looks like it slipped on the carrier to me.

No, it seems like it goes up normally...

[Lwanmtr]

unless its not going all the way up, I'd expect it to be jamming with it that far off.

Make sure the track is bolted to the grab handle bracket inside the door..it might pushing down a bit if its not.
Ill take a pic of where I'm talking here in a bit so you can see where I mean.

[Rich_NYS]

unless its not going all the way up, I'd expect it to be jamming with it that far off.

Make sure the track is bolted to the grab handle bracket inside the door..it might pushing down a bit if its not.
Ill take a pic of where I'm talking here in a bit so you can see where I mean.

Sounds good, thanks.

[Rich]

This is my drivers window in the fully-closed position, can this gap be fixed by adjusting?

50522

Probably not fixable by adjustment. The likely cause is that the carrier bracket has moved so far back on the drop glass that the glass now sits too far forward on the carrier. Either that or the carrier guides have come off one or both of the tracks but in that case the glass usually tips inward and doesn't hit the upper felt track where it should.

First make sure your drop glass is properly on both of the tracks. By looking at both of the guides inside the door.

To check the carrier-to-glass position refer to Post #3 from Dave in this thread: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?9909

I eventually re-did both of my drop glass carrier bonds as Dave instructs. The drop glass front-rear position was like new again. Take your time on that job.

[Rich_NYS]

Probably not fixable by adjustment. The likely cause is that the carrier bracket has moved so far back on the drop glass that the glass now sits too far forward on the carrier. Either that or the carrier guides have come off one or both of the tracks but in that case the glass usually tips inward and doesn't hit the upper felt track where it should.

First make sure your drop glass is properly on both of the tracks. By looking at both of the guides inside the door.

To check the carrier-to-glass position refer to Post #3 from Dave in this thread: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?9909

I eventually re-did both of my drop glass carrier bonds as Dave instructs. The drop glass front-rear position was like new again. Take your time on that job.


Excellent info, thanks Rich.

I think you called it correctly as the glass being forward in the carrier....makes the most sense.

I'm now trying to recall the steps I took the last time I removed a drop glass. I hate to add one more thing to the list before the DMA event this month, but this one is pretty important (and the door panels are currently removed.)

Here's something I fixed recently that I hadn't yet posted:

50539

I suppose this could've been a contributing factor.

[Lwanmtr]

Here is where Im talking about...one bolt holds the rail of the window thing to the bracket that holds the grab handle.

50540

Looks like you have the old one, so it might look a little different there.

[Jonathan]

Here's something I fixed recently that I hadn't yet posted:

50539

I suppose this could've been a contributing factor.

I can't tell if you're being sarcastic here or not, so I apologize if I'm stating the obvious, but you realize this is your problem with the glass not going all the way up, yes?

Like I mean if you don't have the window regulator bolted into that bracket correctly, it sits too low and thus the full travel for the drop glass from that lowered starting point means it finishes short.

Again, don't mean to be an a$$ if you already knew that, just wasn't sure, so thought I'd mention it.

[Rich_NYS]

I can't tell if you're being sarcastic here or not, so I apologize if I'm stating the obvious, but you realize this is your problem with the glass not going all the way up, yes?

Like I mean if you don't have the window regulator bolted into that bracket correctly, it sits too low and thus the full travel for the drop glass from that lowered starting point means it finishes short.

Again, don't mean to be an a$$ if you already knew that, just wasn't sure, so thought I'd mention it.


LOL....no, not being sarcastic.

I thought/expected that was the trouble, I bolted the regulator into the bracket a few weeks ago....no change to the window. I'm going to remove the drop glass and determine if it's in the carrier properly.

Thanks man! :-)

[Jonathan]

Haha, no worries.

Here's a pic of mine, the regulator in that bracket anyway. It has the rounded part pretty much centred in the hole.

I can see how one of the guides not being firmly held could cause it not to go up all the way. I know how hard it was fumbling with my own drop glass sections trying to get them back in the door when I had them out a couple seasons ago. Nice thing about having the interior panels off is you can operate the windows while seeing the mechanism and perhaps notice where the issue is.

50563

[Rich_NYS]

Haha, no worries.

Here's a pic of mine, the regulator in that bracket anyway. It has the rounded part pretty much centred in the hole.

I can see how one of the guides not being firmly held could cause it not to go up all the way. I know how hard it was fumbling with my own drop glass sections trying to get them back in the door when I had them out a couple seasons ago. Nice thing about having the interior panels off is you can operate the windows while seeing the mechanism and perhaps notice where the issue is.

50563


I see you're missing at least one screw on yours....possibly it's a common issue.

Here's mine after I fixed it:

50564


My window goes up all the way to the top, just has a gap at the rear. I'll probably have it out today and will post pics. Hopefully an easy fix!

[Jonathan]

I see you're missing at least one screw on yours....possibly it's a common issue.

Screws fall out all the time. The world's an imperfect place.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qlllvd_AMDw

lol. Let us know how it goes when you get looking into it.

[Rich_NYS]

Would someone please post pics that show the assembly of the glovebox catch? I think there's two pieces that screw together and bolt to the glovebox frame....I'm not sure how those pieces go together (the part that the lid catches on.)
Thanks!

[Lwanmtr]

Inside the box or underneath it?

[Rich_NYS]

Inside the box or underneath it?

Inside, the part[s] at the top of the passenger kneepad. There's a part bolted to the fiberglass, with the glovebox door "catch" screwed to it.

[Rich_NYS]

Here is where Im talking about...one bolt holds the rail of the window thing to the bracket that holds the grab handle.

50540

Looks like you have the old one, so it might look a little different there.


Good pic Rob, thanks.




Probably not fixable by adjustment. The likely cause is that the carrier bracket has moved so far back on the drop glass that the glass now sits too far forward on the carrier. Either that or the carrier guides have come off one or both of the tracks but in that case the glass usually tips inward and doesn't hit the upper felt track where it should.

First make sure your drop glass is properly on both of the tracks. By looking at both of the guides inside the door.

To check the carrier-to-glass position refer to Post #3 from Dave in this thread: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?9909

I eventually re-did both of my drop glass carrier bonds as Dave instructs. The drop glass front-rear position was like new again. Take your time on that job.


I got the glass out, but not really sure that it's not properly aligned in the carrier. An afterthought I had: When I disconnected the regulator I should've moved the window up by hand to see if it behaves differently (I'll try that tomorrow.)

Here are some pics; one shows the alignment mark in the glass looking proper (I think,) but the others seem to show the glass is forward in the carrier (if the black stuff is any indicator.)

5057650577505785057950580

[Lwanmtr]

I havent actually looked at one out of the car so not sure exactly where it should sit on the carrier.

[Rich_NYS]

I got the glass out, but not really sure that it's not properly aligned in the carrier. An afterthought I had: When I disconnected the regulator I should've moved the window up by hand to see if it behaves differently (I'll try that tomorrow.)

Here are some pics; one shows the alignment mark in the glass looking proper (I think,) but the others seem to show the glass is forward in the carrier (if the black stuff is any indicator.)

5057650577505785057950580



Anybody familiar with what I got goin' on here?

[DMCMW Dave]

That's a taped glass. Pull it apart and re-glue it with the glass centered. Also, if it's an early car check to see if the rear carrier bracket is sprayed black. If not, it needs to be modified.


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[Rich_NYS]

That's a taped glass. Pull it apart and re-glue it with the glass centered. Also, if it's an early car check to see if the rear carrier bracket is sprayed black. If not, it needs to be modified.


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Thanks Dave! So, it does look like it's forward in the carrier? is that alignment mark not properly lined up?

Rear carrier is sprayed black.

[DMCMW Dave]

Thanks Dave! So, it does look like it's forward in the carrier? is that alignment mark not properly lined up?

Rear carrier is sprayed black.

I'm having a hard time seeing the alignment marks in the glass (not sure why) but it looks like it has moved. Is that the front mark way to the left? If so the rear mark is probably hidden.

[Rich_NYS]

I'm having a hard time seeing the alignment marks in the glass (not sure why) but it looks like it has moved. Is that the front mark way to the left? If so the rear mark is probably hidden.


In this pic, I think I see it to the left of the bracket, in line with the crease. I'm taking it apart this AM, then I'll know for sure.




50576

[DMCMW Dave]

In this pic, I think I see it to the left of the bracket, in line with the crease. I'm taking it apart this AM, then I'll know for sure.

There are two small dimples in the glass, when correctly lined up one will be about 1/8" to either side of the metal. In your photo it appears 1/4" to the left so the other one is probably behind the tape.

[Rich_NYS]

There are two small dimples in the glass, when correctly lined up one will be about 1/8" to either side of the metal. In your photo it appears 1/4" to the left so the other one is probably behind the tape.

That's exactly right, it was behind the tape. I really appreciate your eyes on this Dave, thanks for the help! :notworthy:

I got the glass out, it came apart way too easy. At first, I thought the dimple was supposed to be lined up with the line in the metal, but now realize that's not the case.

I colored the dimples red, here's how it was:

508185081950820


Here's how I believe it should be:

508215082250823


Do I just fill the channel with Window Weld and push the glass in? Sure would be nice if that stuff came in single-use quantities. The last time I bought a tube, I used it for my fascia eyebrows and Ty Butler's rear-quarter window....the rest is waste.

[Rich_NYS]

What type of glue [available today] is used to re-ttach the wood (behind the seats) to the underbody?

[Drive Stainless]

What type of glue [available today] is used to re-ttach the wood (behind the seats) to the underbody?

Whenever you have dissimilar materials, I prefer to use something with a little flex in it.
I would probably use 3M 5200. You'll note that it's specifically designed for adhering wood to fiberglass:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001R0GUZG/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/158782O/adhesive-sealant-5200-tech-data.pdf

[Rich_NYS]

I'll be working on my A/C soon. My accumulator has been disconnected for almost 2 years. I should just replace it and not bother trying to use it, right?

[Lwanmtr]

Cant you just get it flushed or something?

AC is something I cant work on...the compressor was disconnected when I got the car, so Im thinking it doesnt have any stuff in it...nother thing that will be checked when I get the car up for inspection and other work I need them to do.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I'll be working on my A/C soon. My accumulator has been disconnected for almost 2 years. I should just replace it and not bother trying to use it, right?

Accumulator is cheap so I always replace it when the system has been opened. It also holds oil so if your changing from R12 to R134a you want that oil removed.

[Rich_NYS]

Cant you just get it flushed or something?

AC is something I cant work on...the compressor was disconnected when I got the car, so Im thinking it doesnt have any stuff in it...nother thing that will be checked when I get the car up for inspection and other work I need them to do.


Sounds like you don't know, but thanks anyway lol :rolleyes:



Accumulator is cheap so I always replace it when the system has been opened. It also holds oil so if your changing from R12 to R134a you want that oil removed.

I had it opened for two years....figured it's best to replace it but wasn't sure.

Any suggestions on the part? It looks like a GM part, I'd rather get a new one vs NOS.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I had it opened for two years....figured it's best to replace it but wasn't sure.

Any suggestions on the part? It looks like a GM part, I'd rather get a new one vs NOS.

The NOS parts are made for R12. Most new parts work with R134a.

[David T]

The NOS parts are made for R12. Most new parts work with R134a.

Definitely replace the accumulator. If the hoses are original they should also be replaced along with all of the "O" ring seals. The oil in the compressor should also be drained out and replaced, the bearings in the idler pulleys, the belt, and the cores of the service valves. After testing for leaks and purging the system it gets evacuated and refilled with R-12. Get the RIGHT parts from one of the Delorean vendors.

[FABombjoy]

4 SEASONS A/C ACCUMULATOR #33191 '87 SKYHAWK FIRENZA SUNBIRD

IIRC Andrew dug this xover up. I have one on my car too. Perfect fit and cheaper than a craft beer 6er.

[Rich_NYS]

4 SEASONS A/C ACCUMULATOR #33191 '87 SKYHAWK FIRENZA SUNBIRD

IIRC Andrew dug this xover up. I have one on my car too. Perfect fit and cheaper than a craft beer 6er.


AHA! So it IS a GM part...

Thanks Luke!

[Rich_NYS]

Tonight I reinstalled my binnacle and my battery light stayed on. I thought it might be a connector, but then when the fans came on the battery light went out and it started charging.

Anybody familiar with this type of issue?

[Rich_NYS]

Tonight I reinstalled my binnacle and my battery light stayed on. I thought it might be a connector, but then when the fans came on the battery light went out and it started charging.

Anybody familiar with this type of issue?

Might be a bad battery....gonna change that first.

[Rich_NYS]

1/2 mile from my house my clutch pedal went to the floor....feels like it's not connected to anything. Fluid level is A-OK.

[Chris Burns]

Sounds like a bad master cylinder or bad slave cylinder.

[Rich_NYS]

Sounds like a bad master cylinder or bad slave cylinder.

I was thinking that, although my master is :newly rebuilt" and the slave is "new." Maybe I screwed up the rebuild...

[DMC5180]

Might be a bad battery....gonna change that first.

No, bad batteries don't hold a charge.
Clearly you have a good battery if it spun the engine to start it.

The light staying ON means the alternator was not charging. How old is how old is the alternator? What was the Volt gauge showing when the engine was running while the batt light was ON?


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[Rich_NYS]

No, bad batteries don't hold a charge.
Clearly you have a good battery if it spun the engine to start it.

The light staying ON means the alternator was not charging. How old is how old is the alternator? What was the Volt gauge showing when the engine was running while the batt light was ON?


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Volt gauge was showing 12V at first, then 13.5V (with the battery light on.)

The alternator was a month-old rebuilt. It tested bad, I got a warranty replacement and all is well again....

[DMC5180]

Volt gauge was showing 12V at first, then 13.5V (with the battery light on.)

The alternator was a month-old rebuilt. It tested bad, I got a warranty replacement and all is well again....

Great, was it a locally sourced alternator or the DMCH version of the CS130?


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[Rich_NYS]

Great, was it a locally sourced alternator or the DMCH version of the CS130?


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Locally sourced Saturn alternator.