Torsion Bar Issue

[kbrown84]

So my drivers side torsion bar is set waaay to high, and when we went to adjust it we found the 3/8" socket on the back of the bar to be all stripped out...I cant adjust it. How in the world do I get the old bar out to replace it with it being under tension? Just prop the door open and cut it? I don't want to cause more damage...

[Drive Stainless]

So my drivers side torsion bar is set waaay to high, and when we went to adjust it we found the 3/8" socket on the back of the bar to be all stripped out...I cant adjust it. How in the world do I get the old bar out to replace it with it being under tension? Just prop the door open and cut it? I don't want to cause more damage...

If I was definitely replacing the bar, I would weld the 3/8" hex socket into the torsion bar and remove it as usual.

If I was trying to save the bar, I would try to file the hex-shaped hole to the next largest size and then use that size to remove/adjust the bar.

[David T]

If I was definitely replacing the bar, I would weld the 3/8" hex socket into the torsion bar and remove it as usual.

If I was trying to save the bar, I would try to file the hex-shaped hole to the next largest size and then use that size to remove/adjust the bar.

Some tricks,
Get some shim stock, place it over the hole and hammer a socket in
Try different size metric and english sizes, they are close enough you might get something to fit
If you can see a split or crack you are SOL, nothing is going to fit and you will have a hard time getting the anchor bracket off because the splines are going to enlarge.
Try fitting the head of a bolt into the torsion bar, if you have to, file it down to fit and then weld a socket to the bolt. Or make something up out of a couple of nuts and bolts.

[DMCMW Dave]

You will next find that the head of the torsion bar is stretched (ballooned) so that you won't be able to slide the clamp off the bar to make the adjustment.

You can usually walk the clamp off with some prybars, a couple of helpers, and some patience, but worst case you will have to cut the bar (the horror!!) or remove the roof panel and rear window to unwind it far enough to get it out. Then you still have to get the clamp off but at this point you can use hammers.

This is, to me, one of the worst "prior owner" issues you can run into on the car.

[Rich]

This is, to me, one of the worst "prior owner" issues you can run into on the car.

+1

You said it, Dave.

As a potential PO problem it's all the worse since a pre-purchase inspection seldom involves pulling the rear finisher to get a good look at the back of the bars.

Looks like everything fits in this story. The PO had the torsion bar set way too tight. The hex socket likely got distorted or worn by the hex key due to the excess torque/force when the PO "fixed" a drooping door.

So just a reminder to the few owners - or to relatively new owners - who do not already know: Do not adjust a door torsion bar to address a drooping door unless you first install a known-good door lift strut and it still sags - in warm weather (in wintertime it will typically lift at bit less).

Door struts are a known wear item. Replacement is the go-to solution for drooping doors.


This is, to me, one of the worst "prior owner" issues you can run into on the car.

[81dmc]

If you effectively hammer a larger size in, just have a helper carefully cut the bracket off with a dremel wheel. This remedies the problem of shattering the rear glass.

[David T]

If you effectively hammer a larger size in, just have a helper carefully cut the bracket off with a dremel wheel. This remedies the problem of shattering the rear glass.

Even if the end has split it can be possible to get the anchor plate off. As Dave says, with helpers, patience, and some pry bars, it *can* be done. Cutting the torsion bar is a last resort. Sometimes if you use a bolt head and get it all the way in where the split begins, you can unwind the torsion bar without expanding the head much. This kind of work is difficult even for experienced techs of Deloreans. The best thing to do is to try to take it to one of them who has some experience with it and not trying it yourself. Since torsion bars are rare and expensive it is worth trying to save your old one if possible. Another idea is to get some door struts from PJ Grady. His newest batch has a LOT of damping when opening so maybe it will help with your over-adjusted door. Or put a weak strut back on and call it a day?

[Shuttleman]

Dave is right, the bracket probably won't back up because of the taper the spline area gets when someone apply torque with a hex that is too short. Mine were also twist.

The best advise I can give you is to make a puller like in this picture: ( after you find a way to hold the bar with a hex that goes all the way to the bottom.)

4421244213

[David T]

Dave is right, the bracket probably won't back up because of the taper the spline area gets when someone apply torque with a hex that is too short. Mine were also twist.

The best advise I can give you is to make a puller like in this picture: ( after you find a way to hold the bar with a hex that goes all the way to the bottom.)

4421244213

Yes, a puller may help but be careful! Using as puller or crowbars, make sure you are not pulling the torsion bar out of the front hinge! Otherwise you could be in for a BIG surprise! Again, I caution you, even an experienced tech will have plenty of problems with this one! Best to not attempt this yourself. You may also find the bolts for the anchor brackets are stripped. Besides the potential for personal injury there is a big chance you will damage the rear window.

[DMCMW Dave]

I believe that the other root cause of this issue is when someone goes to adjust the door and does not make sure that the allen bit is seated all the way into the bar. If it's only in part way, it is guaranteed to stretch the head of the bar due to concentrating all that force in the last 1/8 inch.

Test fit the bit first, then mark or paint it in some way so that when you put it into the bar it's obvious that you have it all the way in.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I believe that the other root cause of this issue is when someone goes to adjust the door and does not make sure that the allen bit is seated all the way into the bar. If it's only in part way, it is guaranteed to stretch the head of the bar due to concentrating all that force in the last 1/8 inch.

Test fit the bit first, then mark or paint it in some way so that when you put it into the bar it's obvious that you have it all the way in.

The exact size of the "Allen" tool also varies. When I made my tool I measured a bunch of tools and wrenches and there are a few thousands difference. I chose a name brand Allen wrench and cut the tool head from that. Then I epoxied that tool into a socket.

I have found when the tool is holding torque, that expands the torsion bar enough to make the removal of the holing clamps very hard to pull off. My car at my first tech session, the guys could not get the clamps removed. At a later date, I pulled my T panel off so I could prop the door past vertical, remove all the torque and then the clamp just slid off by hand.

[David T]

The exact size of the "Allen" tool also varies. When I made my tool I measured a bunch of tools and wrenches and there are a few thousands difference. I chose a name brand Allen wrench and cut the tool head from that. Then I epoxied that tool into a socket.

I have found when the tool is holding torque, that expands the torsion bar enough to make the removal of the holing clamps very hard to pull off. My car at my first tech session, the guys could not get the clamps removed. At a later date, I pulled my T panel off so I could prop the door past vertical, remove all the torque and then the clamp just slid off by hand.

The splines might need a bit of "cleaning up" with a file. Especially of it hasn't been touched in a long time. Usually not necessary to do the ones in the anchor bracket, just the torsion bar. Check the threads on the bolts that hold the anchor bracket. I often find them munched up because someone turned them without taking off the pressure on them first. Replace them if necessary and run a tap into the body to clean the threads inside. You should be able to turn the bolts with your fingers (at least once you take off the stress of the torsion bar). When working in that area with the plastic valence removed you must be VERY careful of the sharp edges of the Tee panel. Typically when working there you work with the Tee panel installed. Another tip, use a pencil and mark the position of the anchor bracket to the torsion bar before removing so you won't have to guess when reinstalling it (usually only 1 spline over). I also put a piece of rubber about 1"X 2" between the torsion bar and the rear hinge so the torsion bar can't get scratched.

[Shuttleman]

make sure you are not pulling the torsion bar out of the front hinge!

The puller prevents exactly that, it pulls the bracket by pushing the allen bit in towards the bar completely straight.

If you do it by prying or with a hammer, the torsion bar will want to follow and the front could disengage.

[DMCMW Dave]

The puller prevents exactly that, it pulls the bracket by pushing the allen bit in towards the bar completely straight.

If you do it by prying or with a hammer, the torsion bar will want to follow and the front could disengage.

We've dealt with a ton of these, and I've NEVER seen the bar pull out of the front hinge under tension. You'll usually find that, even after releasing all the twist in the bar, the bar is still stuck to the front hinge until you turn it a few degrees the wrong way. I really don't think it's an issue.

[DMCMW Dave]

The exact size of the "Allen" tool also varies.

This is one of those areas where a Snap-on tool is worth the $$.

[81dmc]

We've dealt with a ton of these, and I've NEVER seen the bar pull out of the front hinge under tension. You'll usually find that, even after releasing all the twist in the bar, the bar is still stuck to the front hinge until you turn it a few degrees the wrong way. I really don't think it's an issue.

I was just about to mention this!

When I installed a new roof box last year, both torsion bars were a royal PIA to remove without damaging them (or me).

FYI- For decent, not overkill prying force, just wedge a large flathead between the roof box and the bracket. Apply pressure, then move the flathead to the other side of the bracket. This will basically "wiggle" the bracket off the expanded torsion bar spline.