Evaporator tube repair kit

[FABombjoy]

Long story short: Expansion valve gets stuck, I buggered the inside wall of the tube extracting the guts of it. Tube is solid but there is no way the O rings will seal.

Has anyone had luck using a repair kit, like one of these (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/factory-air-evaporator-core-repair-kit-w-white-orifice-tube-16152/5898021-P?searchTerm=evaporator+core+repair+kit)? I saw a reference in the DMCNews archives to DMCH repairing evaporators with something like this.

I realize it will probably stick out a bit compared to stock but I'm using DPIs AC line kit, so I feel like I have a little leeway over the stock config.

As much as I'd love to drop my HVAC box and R&R the evaporator, time is running short to make DCS :)

[DMCMW Dave]

I've never installed one. We've seen one or two on cars and you are right - it adds quite a bit of length to the tube in a place where you don't really want it.

[FABombjoy]

So what you're telling me is I should ream the pipe with a drill bit, install the new valve with JB Weld, and plan to R&R the evaporator at a future date? :elmo2:

[Bitsyncmaster]

You really don't need a perfect seal so I would just smooth the inside of the tubing carefully.

[FABombjoy]

If the seal was really bad, the worst case would be evaporator freeze-up, right?

[Bitsyncmaster]

If the seal was really bad, the worst case would be evaporator freeze-up, right?

That would be my guess also since you would be passing a little more liquid refrigerant than normal.

[FABombjoy]

Maybe what I'll do is install the 4 Seasons repair kit but move the high pressure switch to the condenser. Since I'm using DPIs line kit, I believe I can simply relocate the HP switch adapter and extend the HP switch wires.

That should minimize the added length from the evaporator tube.

[FABombjoy]

Update: New system is in, AC is cold, no repair kit necessary.

I lightly filed the damaged area of the tube to knock down the high spots then honed it with a brass bottle brush. Flushed it out and hammered home the new valve with an install tool. Looks like I escaped R&R'ing the evaporator. I used a VOV instead of the fixed orifice and the VOV o-rings are a bit farther down the evaporator tube which may help.

[Morpheus]

^Got pics?

[FABombjoy]

I have a few bad ones :) Anything you want to see in particular?

[Morpheus]

^Not particularly, I'm trying to get up the gumption to do a whole-system replacement myself, and pics of the process helps me do that. :tongue:

[dn010]

Being that I've done this twice now, I have some photos of the process including evaporator replacement. Once my laptop is back in operational condition Friday, I'll post what I have.

[FABombjoy]

A few of the busier areas:

44674
44675

Memorable events during install:
-Removing the old parts went easily, except for the orifice tube. Rent the tool to remove it, don't use the screw method.
-The compressor head (backplate) cracked when installing the fittings. Not because I He-Man'd it, it was just a defective part. I was able to swap the old compressor head onto the new unit.
-I'm using a universal parallel flow condenser (CN20010XC). Today it's 80+ and humid and the AC is working well! DMCH has an exact fit replacement now which I probably would have used if I didn't already have this part.

Thoughts about the kit: (delivered in 2015)
-Nice to have smaller hoses, especially in a cramped engine like mine.
-Not sure about the high/low fill port selection. Mine face down, it works but it's not convenient. Pictures on the website show the ports on the compressor fittings so maybe this is how they are currently supplied.
-Moving the high pressure switch to condenser is required. Not hard to rewire things but should be mentioned in product description or a jumper harness should be provided.
-Crimping the hose rings is not difficult. Fittings can only be clocked before crimping, so be sure you have your hoses in place before committing!
-Pick up a universal O ring kit. Some of the kit O rings didn't fit any of the connections.

If you're at DCS I'd be happy to talk more about the process!

[dn010]

Not to change the subject, but where did you get (or did you fabricate?) the coolant line coming off the water pump? It looks to be the same routing as the early vin cars which would be great for me since the later revised route is extremely close to belts and other objects on my engine.

[FABombjoy]

Universal 1.25" aluminum 90 mandrels cut and bead rolled. Can't recall the reducer size at the water pump offhand. Probably could have had the sections welded up for less than $50 but it works fine as-is.

It was 3 aluminum 90s until recently tracking down some odd noises. The engine moves around quite a bit so I changed the last 90 nto a more flexible rubber line. Seems to have quieted things down.