Starting problem after replacing fuel lines

[Stainless]

After all the recent fire scares, I decided to replace my original fuel lines. While it was more time consuming than I anticipated, and after I fixed all the leaks, I was surprised that the car struggled to start. When I first started it after replacing the lines, it ran extremely rough for about a minute, then it smoothed right out and I thought everything was going to be fine and dandy. Not so.

I don't drive my car much, but prior to replacing the lines, it would fire up right away with zero problems. I replaced the thermotime sensor a couple of years back to fix a cold start issue I was having when it was winter time. Until now, that is the only starting problem I've ever had. Now when I go to start it, it fires up right away, just like it used to, but doesn't stay running. It dies after 1 second, even if I give it gas. It will then crank and crank and crank and crank until the battery starts to die.

Today I hooked hooked the DeLorean up to my Corolla to give it more juice so the battery wouldn't die and I got the DeLorean started. It acted like it was going to fire right up, but then died. Then it cranked and cranked and cranked and it finally fired up again, but ran really rough. I could only keep it going by giving it a lot of gas. After about it minute, I let it idle and it didn't die, but didn't run very smooth. After another minute or so, it started to idle out nice and smooth. I drove it for about an hour tonight and it ran flawlessly. I took some neighbor kid for a drive and it felt like everything was normal. It ran like a top.

After coming home, I shut it off, and then tried starting it again. It fired up great and ran smooth right away. Of all the threads I've read about replacing fuel lines, I've never come across the new lines creating a starting issue. All the lines look fine except the one going to the cold start valve. It's kind of twisted. I felt like that was the only option I had to get it to line up correctly. I don't know if that line is kinked, causing the starting problem, or if I did something else wrong. Any help is appreciated.
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[Bitsyncmaster]

You probably knocked a vacuum line off somewhere. Also check that connector on the timing advance solenoid.

[jmettee]

Or you have a couple lines swapped. Post a pic of the right side of your fuel distributor & the frequency valve (all in 1 pic so we can verify the routing)

[Jonathan]

+1 on a routing mistake. Double check that the ignition wires are correct as well as the fuel and vacuum lines.

[OverlandMan]

Agree with others already posted. Vacuum line off or incorrectly routed and/or fuel line incorrectly routed. Sounds like something on the open-loop side of the system, when the car is cold. Maybe start there (CPR, WUR, FV... that stuff). Also make sure the return lines are ordered correctly where they connect to the fuel dist. I've heard if this is incorrect it will cause problems. This is the 17mm bolt (I think) where the 2 connections stack on top of each other.

See my pic below. The outside loop goes to the FV while the inside goes to the metal return line (back to the tank) under the ignition coil and bulkhead.

44480

[Stainless]

I'll see if I can snap some better pictures tonight. I'd be surprised if I got a line in the wrong place as I replaced only one line at a time, but it's possible. Here's the only pic I could find on my camera that has a different angle. Let me know if you see anything unusual. More to come.
44481

[StanMan PushN 88]

Agree with others already posted. Vacuum line off or incorrectly routed and/or fuel line incorrectly routed. Sounds like something on the open-loop side of the system, when the car is cold. Maybe start there (CPR, WUR, FV... that stuff). Also make sure the return lines are ordered correctly where they connect to the fuel dist. I've heard if this is incorrect it will cause problems. This is the 17mm bolt (I think) where the 2 connections stack on top of each other.

See my pic below. The outside loop goes to the FV while the inside goes to the metal return line (back to the tank) under the ignition coil and bulkhead.

44480


Questions:
Great shot of your fuel lines OverlandMan! For some of us considering swapping out, what are the acronyms CPR, WUR, FV? Also, where did you get the fuel lines, are you happy with them? Other suggestions? (I've still got rubber lines but I think previous owner replaced in 2012).

StanPushN88

[davidc89]

Questions:
Great shot of your fuel lines OverlandMan! For some of us considering swapping out, what are the acronyms CPR, WUR, FV? Also, where did you get the fuel lines, are you happy with them? Other suggestions? (I've still got rubber lines but I think previous owner replaced in 2012).

StanPushN88

WUR - Warm up regulator
FV - Frequency Valve
CPR - Control pressure regulator

[Stainless]

Here are some pics at different angles. I can't see anything that appears to be wrong, so please point out anything that may be suspect.
44505

44506

44507

44508

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[OverlandMan]

Questions:
Great shot of your fuel lines OverlandMan! For some of us considering swapping out, what are the acronyms CPR, WUR, FV? Also, where did you get the fuel lines, are you happy with them? Other suggestions? (I've still got rubber lines but I think previous owner replaced in 2012).

StanPushN88

Got these fuel lines from DPI. Josh also swapped out my banjo bolts for refurbs and I sent him my cores. I've replaced everything in my fuel system except the FV and some of the lambda components. It's been quite the journey. I'm pleased with the quality all around.



Here are some pics at different angles. I can't see anything that appears to be wrong, so please point out anything that may be suspect.

I don't see anything obvious. Can you confirm the WUR's big bolt goes to the top of the fuel dist? I can't tell from your pics.

[Jonathan]

Jared,

What's your car doing right now? Starting and idling that is? The last line from your first post said it struggled right after replacing the lines, then ran rough a time afterwards, then ran like a top when you gave the neighbor kid a ride. Plus it restarted no problem right after getting home.

I don't know what would be "typical" but the car struggling for a little while soon after replacing all your fuel lines wouldn't be all that unexpected since, at least initially, you are trying to start an engine using fuel lines that are all empty. Add to that some leaks that got fixed, and what you first described might just have been you getting all the fuel lines completely full and your engine finally running well because of it.

I didn't see anything out of the ordinary in your last few pictures. I would keep trying it and going for those short drives and report back whether it is fine or is still having troubles.

EDIT: here's part of an acronym list too http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?1775-DeLorean-Acronym-List

[Stainless]

It did initially struggle to run when first replacing the lines. What now is happening is that it struggles to start each and every time after it sits for a day or more. It cranks, cranks, cranks, but doesn't fire up for the longest time. I'm talking minutes, not seconds. So much cranking that the battery will die, which results it me having to jump it. It will initially run rough for a minute or so, then it smooths out and all appears to be fine until the next time it sits for a couple of days. Then this process repeats.

Again, it never had any starting issues prior to replacing the lines, the only exception being the issue several years ago with cold starting, which required a simple thermotime switch replacement. I'll take a look at the big bolt on the WUR. What else can I check? Is it potentially a fuel pressure issue? Could one of the lines be seeping pressure which could cause starting issues? I'm grasping at straws as I am clueless.

[Jonathan]

What came to mind isn't too far off what you said with it possibly "seeping pressure." I got thinking of it like how a sump pump can struggle to get itself primed if the check valve or other means of supplying suction head isn't working.

In our fuel systems, that would mean the fuel pump is losing prime and the fuel on the suction side of the pump is falling back into the tank.

Did you do any work within the fuel tank or on the pump?

It sounds like you didn't and just stuck to the lines back at the engine, so I might guess that over the course of replacing the lines, some grit or debris got loose or somehow introduced into the system and maybe it's plugging up the filter screen on the pump now.

At this point, I might carefully inspect the inside of the fuel tank and find out what is going on in there. You don't need to take everything out, empty it and clean it right yet, but perhaps loosen the fuel pump boot clamp and gently lift up the pump to allow you to see what the suction assembly looks like. This may not turn out to be your problem, or it could be and it isn't that difficult to have a good look in there and at least rule it out if it all looks fine.

EDIT: also, how much gas is in the tank right now? It might be almost empty and that's adding to the problem. If there's filth in there, it should be cleaned out. But adding more fuel to sort of dilute the debris a little could keep it away from the suction tube. Sounds like you might be sucking the same debris back into the pump each time yet once it's running, it stays clear until shut off and things settle again.

[Ron]

Questions:
Great shot of your fuel lines OverlandMan! For some of us considering swapping out, what are the acronyms CPR, WUR, FV? Also, where did you get the fuel lines, are you happy with them? Other suggestions? (I've still got rubber lines but I think previous owner replaced in 2012).

StanPushN88


WUR - Warm up regulator
FV - Frequency Valve
CPR - Control pressure regulator



EDIT: here's part of an acronym list too http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?1775-DeLorean-Acronym-List

To avoid a pile of hair when reading the manual etc, note that a WUR and CPR are the same thing. :screwy::swear1:

[Ron]

Could one of the lines be seeping pressure which could cause starting issues?Check the rest pressure....


$.02

I don't see the check valve causing the problem since it is downstream WRT the pump.... I vote for a vacuum leak (since running rough for a minute is new) or something with the Cold Start Valve. Maybe remove and block off the main vacuum connection at the rear of the left air horn and see if anything changes. If not, leave it blocked off and try a good shot of starting fluid when it's dead cold again.

[Jonathan]

I don't see the check valve causing the problem since it is downstream WRT the pump....

Just to try and clarify, I was describing check valve as more of the analogy with a sump pump, or chemical pump for that matter, where it's the one in the bottom of the tank causing problems. With a chemical pump pumping something out of a drum, what you'd often see would be a little "foot check valve" on the very end of the chemical tubing. All that really does is keep the tubing full of chemical when the pump shuts off when it isn't needed. This keeps the tubing full and then when the pump gets called on again, it just goes. If the foot valve is faulty, the fluid falls back down the tubing into the drum and then you can find yourself with a chemical pump that can't prime itself and actually pump that chemical where it needed to go and cause whatever sort of problems it affects in the process...

The OP's description made me think it was something starving the flow of fuel INTO the pump, i.e. plugged filter material, pinched pick-up hose, etc. Bad choice of terms saying check valve as it probably got confused with the check valves guys have needed on the discharge side of the replacement pump/sender combo. That wasn't the one I meant :)

[OverlandMan]

To avoid a pile of hair when reading the manual etc, note that a WUR and CPR are the same thing. :screwy::swear1:

Yes that's my fault for any confusion. I meant to type WUR and CSV (Cold Start Valve for the OP).

[David T]

Forgetting the fact that you did recent work your symptom sounds as if the CSV is not working. Pull it out and check that it sprays when cranking, cold. Recheck it's hose routing. BTW, some of your hoses have sharp bends, try to re-route them so you are not a) putting stress on the fittings, and b) not bending them sharply. They also should not run near anything sharp or hot or rub against other things. They should also not be twisted.

[Bitsyncmaster]

It did initially struggle to run when first replacing the lines. What now is happening is that it struggles to start each and every time after it sits for a day or more. It cranks, cranks, cranks, but doesn't fire up for the longest time. I'm talking minutes, not seconds. So much cranking that the battery will die, which results it me having to jump it. It will initially run rough for a minute or so, then it smooths out and all appears to be fine until the next time it sits for a couple of days. Then this process repeats.

Again, it never had any starting issues prior to replacing the lines, the only exception being the issue several years ago with cold starting, which required a simple thermotime switch replacement. I'll take a look at the big bolt on the WUR. What else can I check? Is it potentially a fuel pressure issue? Could one of the lines be seeping pressure which could cause starting issues? I'm grasping at straws as I am clueless.

Your CSV (cold start valve) is probably not working. Since it did work before you did the fuel lines, I would guess you have a marginal connection. Verify your TTS (thermal time switch) connector is plugged in. Also remove and plug back in the connectors on the bulkhead (connectors inside the ignition coil box).

[Ron]

Yes that's my fault for any confusion. I meant to type WUR and CSV (Cold Start Valve for the OP).I hope you didn't think I was :swear1: you...lol

I don't know why the manual does that...When I first studied it, I kept thinking things like "I thought that other thingy mentioned way back did this or that...or was connect there".:reading::banghead: Things were a lot better when I figured it out.
I mention it often to save some other poor soul the hassle.

[Ron]

Just to try and clarify...
I'm with ya. :thumbup:

[OverlandMan]

I hope you didn't think I was :swear1: you...lol

I don't know why the manual does that...When I first studied it, I kept thinking things like "I thought that other thingy mentioned way back did this or that...or was connect there".:reading::banghead: Things were a lot better when I figured it out.
I mention it often to save some other poor soul the hassle.

Not at all! You're good.

[yianni]

I just replaced my fuel lines today and am having the same problem -- car won't start, but was fine prior to replacing lines. I pulled out injectors and no fuel is spraying. My fuel lines also came from DPI. As the original poster here, I also replaced one fuel line at a time carefully to make sure everything was put in the proper place. Was there any resolution to the original post? Any thoughts as to what could be the problem? I was planning to attend convention this coming weekend, but that may not be possible. Any help would be appreciated.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I just replaced my fuel lines today and am having the same problem -- car won't start, but was fine prior to replacing lines. I pulled out injectors and no fuel is spraying. My fuel lines also came from DPI. As the original poster here, I also replaced one fuel line at a time carefully to make sure everything was put in the proper place. Was there any resolution to the original post? Any thoughts as to what could be the problem? I was planning to attend convention this coming weekend, but that may not be possible. Any help would be appreciated.

Try pressing down on the air plate when you have fuel pressure. Do it quickly. After the air is purged a lot of flue will flow.

You can also keep using starting fluid which should also purge the air from the lines.

[Stainless]

Still no resolution from me, the OP. This weekend, I put the original line back on that goes to the cold start valve to see if my problem was due to that one line that was kind of twisted. The problem didn't miraculously go away. My thought is that my problem is still somehow related to the cold start valve as it will run fine once it's all warmed up after finally starting. It still cranks and cranks, but if I crank it for a bit, leave for a few minutes, come back and crank it a few more times, it will start up, even though it still runs rough for the first little bit.

To me, the cause should be limited to what was changed, with the assumption being that nothing else was disturbed. It's still a head scratcher for me.

[Jonathan]

Still no resolution from me, the OP. This weekend, I put the original line back on that goes to the cold start valve to see if my problem was due to that one line that was kind of twisted. The problem didn't miraculously go away. My thought is that my problem is still somehow related to the cold start valve as it will run fine once it's all warmed up after finally starting. It still cranks and cranks, but if I crank it for a bit, leave for a few minutes, come back and crank it a few more times, it will start up, even though it still runs rough for the first little bit.

To me, the cause should be limited to what was changed, with the assumption being that nothing else was disturbed. It's still a head scratcher for me.

Agreed on it sounding like a problem related to the CSV.

Sticking it one area then, I would check and recheck the electrical connection on top of the CSV. Clean for corrosion if present, confirm the male spaded end tabs are fitting snuggly in the female end of the connection. Sometimes those widen up and aren't grabbing on very well. Carefully pinch them closer together with a small screwdriver or pair of pliers if you find them that way. Inspect the length of the wiring for the CSV as much as you can for any obvious damage or problems. Confirm the bulkhead connection for the CSV is ok, it is #47 in the white connector and is a BLUE/BLACK wire. Also inspect the two vacuum connections on the base of the CSV. One loops around to the top of the oil filler and the other, longer one, goes to the charcoal canister. I'm not sure even if one of those vacuum hoses was a problem whether it would do what you're seeing though.

[David T]

Easier than all that, take the CSV off and stick it in a container. Try starting the car when cold and see if it sprays. If it doesn't, figure out why. Make sure fuel is coming through the hose to the valve and see if it gets electric when cranking. Unusual but it is possible the valve is bad or plugged up with dirt.

[Ron]

...
My thought is that my problem is still somehow related to the cold start valve as it will run fineonce it's all warmed upafter finally starting.
"...once it's all warmed up" is one problem and "..after finally starting...", probably another. The CSV shouldn't have anything to do with it running ruff, not for minutes anyway. When one is getting good spark etc, I like using starting fluid on a cold start problem because it eliminates the need for the CSV (and can help clear a fowled plug/cylinder...). IMO, do first things first, and here, that's getting it to start consistently. If the fluid makes it start consistently, check the CSV as David Et al. suggested. If it's OK, the fluid may be compensating for a vacuum leak (especially when cold)...use it on potential leak areas (short shots) while the engine is running to find leaks (listen for change in engine speed, but avoid metering plate area [bad distributor/wires may ignite so be careful!]). Blocking off the main vacuum tap, as previously suggested, will eliminate a lot....
Otherwise, maybe check (but DO NOT change) the dwell=>buzzing Frequency Valve...IAC

[DMCMW Dave]

Pull the blue plug off the CSV one of the terminals is probably pushed out of the shell.


Sent from phone

[yianni]

Problem solved, got my car running again. Spent two hours today pulling out new lines and replaced with the old existing ones. I don't know why, but it likes the old ones. After a couple of cranks it fired up and it seems to be running fine. I want to thank all of you for your input, hope to see all at the show this weekend.

[Ron]

Problem solved, got my car running again. Spent two hours today pulling out new lines and replaced with the old existing ones. I don't know why, but it likes the old ones. After a couple of cranks it fired up and it seems to be running fine. I want to thank all of you for your input, hope to see all at the show this weekend.
:headscratch:

[Bitsyncmaster]

Problem solved, got my car running again. Spent two hours today pulling out new lines and replaced with the old existing ones. I don't know why, but it likes the old ones. After a couple of cranks it fired up and it seems to be running fine. I want to thank all of you for your input, hope to see all at the show this weekend.

After the show, just replace one line at a time and start the car after each replacement.

[yianni]

I don't know if I'm wiling to go through that again sense my old lines are working properly. I will talk with Josh and see if I can return them or get credit for something else in the future that I might need. If that doesn't happen I will make someone a good deal for $40 less than what I have in them, we just have to wait and see. As you know, the main thing is to keep these old cars running.

[DMCMW Dave]

This isn't as crazy as it sounds. I've seen stainless lines crimped incorrectly so that they hose is blocked. It happens.

[81dmc]

Problem solved, got my car running again. Spent two hours today pulling out new lines and replaced with the old existing ones. I don't know why, but it likes the old ones. After a couple of cranks it fired up and it seems to be running fine. I want to thank all of you for your input, hope to see all at the show this weekend.

You really should not run the originals... Too many recent fires....

On another note, did you check mixture with the new lines? Fuel flow is most likely different with DPI's lines compared to the originals.

EDIT: Dave has a point. Use a compressor or your lungs to verify that there are no blockages in each line.

[DMCMW Dave]

Fuel flow is most likely different with DPI's lines compared to the originals.

Why?

[81dmc]

Why?

I had the same issues with my lines until the mixture was correctly set. I guess I was just one of the unlucky ones...

[yianni]

No, I didn't check the mixture with the new lines. I didn't even think about it, what I found, that most of you know, was the end fittings on the lines are on the same plane and not offset which put a twist in every line and maybe like Dave pointed out probably restricted flow. Are all new stainless set up fixed ends or do some setups swivel to make fitting more proper?

[OverlandMan]

No, I didn't check the mixture with the new lines. I didn't even think about it, what I found, that most of you know, was the end fittings on the lines are on the same plane and not offset which put a twist in every line and maybe like Dave pointed out probably restricted flow. Are all new stainless set up fixed ends or do some setups swivel to make fitting more proper?

My DPI lines swivel; however they are very tight so you have to mean-ass them a bit to get the ends to turn. At first I didn't know they would swivel until I asked Josh. Doing this made the installation much easier and cleaner looking.

I would agree with some of what's already been said. Check each of the new lines and insure they flow air through them at the same volume you have on your old ones. Did you replace the line between the filter and the fuel distributor? I would give that one and the primary line to the WUR a real close look. Get some extra copper crush washers to use on the final install when you're all finished.

I wouldn't think you would need to do any mixture adjustments. I did on mine but I also replaced the fuel dist, WUR, a few injectors, etc. Replacing just the lines should not require this.

I would NOT go back to the old fuel lines. I'm one of those who had an engine fire due to a pinhole in an old line. Thankfully I caught it before any significant damage was done.

[Delorean Industries]

Hi John, Emailed you a response on this.

[novadmc]

slightly similar issue here but not as pronounced after replacing the NOS lines. mine's sort of a mild annoyance vs a potential issue.

from a cold start, it takes either 1 crank and a nice press of the gas pedal. the car will start, act like it almost wants to stumble and die, and then catches and runs fine.
occasionally it'll fire up, immediately die, and then fire up fine on the 2nd crank.

hot starts present 0 issues.

when i replaced all my stock lines with DPI's i also installed all the upgraded silicone vac lines (minus brake vac lines). i confirmed no fuel leaks or vac leaks, visually verified all electrical connectors (WUR, ISM, CSV, TTS) are all good, and adjusted mixture post install (vac lines helped close up some vac leaks, so mixture adjustment was required to get dwell to swing around 40 (20 on the 4cyl scale)).

One thing i've noticed that's new, is that when i turn the key to ACC to prime the fuel pump (Dave M's RPM relay), i get a single quick chirp/squeak from the left side of the engine bay. i haven't had a 2nd person available to turn the key while i try to pinpoint the source of said noise yet with regards to that.

fuel line routing was done with the help of a fellow DeLorean owner running Josh's lines (i do very much love the quality of them) and routing does not appear to show any potential kinks, etc:
44690 44691 44692

[Morpheus]

One thing i've noticed that's new, is that when i turn the key to ACC to prime the fuel pump (Dave M's RPM relay), i get a single quick chirp/squeak from the left side of the engine bay. i haven't had a 2nd person available to turn the key while i try to pinpoint the source of said noise yet with regards to that.


I get that too! It has been driving me crazy for months. It doesn't happen to me every time, but it's loud AF.

Edit: I should add that I don't have Dave's RPM relay (yet), just a blue NOS one.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I get that too! It has been driving me crazy for months. It doesn't happen to me every time, but it's loud AF.

Edit: I should add that I don't have Dave's RPM relay (yet), just a blue NOS one.

My RPM relay only powers the pump on the prime (key on). The stock RPM relay will power both the pump and lambda if it primes. My guess is your primary pressure regulator does a buzz with a prime.

[novadmc]

My RPM relay only powers the pump on the prime (key on). The stock RPM relay will power both the pump and lambda if it primes. My guess is your primary pressure regulator does a buzz with a prime.


i had my wife turn the key while i tried to listened with a stethoscope pinpoint the quick single chirp when turned to ACC. surely enough, its coming from the fuel distributor. just a tiny little chirp as fuel starts to pressurize it.
Is this something that would need addressing soon, or is it something to just note for the future?

[yianni]

Ok then, I learned that my lines do swivel if I force them. And maybe an adjustment on the fuel mixture if needed. Thanks again for all the good info and thank you Josh for your advice also.

[Stainless]

Ok then, I learned that my lines do swivel if I force them. And maybe an adjustment on the fuel mixture if needed. Thanks again for all the good info and thank you Josh for your advice also.

Care to share the advice for others that have bought, or may buy, these lines?

[Bitsyncmaster]

i had my wife turn the key while i tried to listened with a stethoscope pinpoint the quick single chirp when turned to ACC. surely enough, its coming from the fuel distributor. just a tiny little chirp as fuel starts to pressurize it.
Is this something that would need addressing soon, or is it something to just note for the future?

I would not think that noise would be cause for concern. Maybe they all do it just most people hear the pump whine louder.

[Stainless]

Well it has been two years and I still don't have a fix for this. I've driven my car occasionally over the past couple of years. I can usually get it to start when it is cool, although it still starts and runs rough until it has been running a couple of minutes. One thing I discovered last year is that it does not do well with hot starts, including hot weather days. It will just crank and crank endlessly. If and when I can get it to finally start when hot, it will run fine and restart just fine as long as I don't let it sit too long.

Due to someone requesting to use my car for an event, I decided to dive into this over the weekend. I decided to switch back the old fuel lines, one at a time, to see if I could find a bad one causing my problems. I started with the main line from the fuel filter, but couldn't get the old line to stop leaking. So I gave up and swapped back the new line, only to discover that the hard line is weeping where the hard line and 90 degree elbow meet at the bottom of the filter. It must have been doing this ever since I swapped to new lines, but I didn't realize it. I just ordered the new filter kit from DPI that includes a new elbow that includes cutting the old hard line and replacing the fitting.

I also couldn't get the same line to stop weeping where it meets the fuel distributor. No fuel was spraying anywhere, but kept getting moist. To hopefully help fix that, I ordered a complete set of copper o-rings and will torque all of the banjo bolts down to 10 ft lbs once I have everything new put together. I'm hopeful that I'll make some progress after fixing these issues and can get closer to a resolution. While I was doing this, I finally got around to pivoting some of the ends of the new lines so that they aren't twisted, but they are nice and straight and look much cleaner.

Long story short, after a new fuel filter w/ elbow kit (http://www.deloreanindustries.com/27-fuel-filter-kit/), new copper washers so I can re-torque new fuel lines (http://www.deloreanindustries.com/copper-sealing-washer-kit-fuel-system/), and hopefully I'll have some news to report after these have been installed.

[Bitsyncmaster]

If your fuel lines were leaking, that would cause a hot start problem.

[Stainless]

If your fuel lines were leaking, that would cause a hot start problem.

That leaves me hopeful that I'm going to fix this darn issue eventually. I'll report back once the known weeping issues are fixed.

[David T]

Refer to D:02:01 Note 10 for torque specs for the fuel lines. These are for use with new copper seals. If the joint should leak check for scoring, unevenness or dirt. Certainly the lines should not be under additional stress by having been twisted, bent or kinked. Another reason a joint can leak is, when assembling it, you accidentally miss a copper seal or use more than 1 per side. It doesn't take much additional torque to break the banjo (hollow) bolts so don't overtighten them to stop a leak. Leaks are hard to miss, you can smell them, even if you can't see them. A tiny leak at these pressures and the fuel will atomize and not always be visible. There can be NO leaks. While a leak can cause hard hot restart problems it should not cause a hard cold start problem. Recheck that you have the lines correctly connected and routed.

[Stainless]

Refer to D:02:01 Note 10 for torque specs for the fuel lines. These are for use with new copper seals. If the joint should leak check for scoring, unevenness or dirt. Certainly the lines should not be under additional stress by having been twisted, bent or kinked. Another reason a joint can leak is, when assembling it, you accidentally miss a copper seal or use more than 1 per side. It doesn't take much additional torque to break the banjo (hollow) bolts so don't overtighten them to stop a leak. Leaks are hard to miss, you can smell them, even if you can't see them. A tiny leak at these pressures and the fuel will atomize and not always be visible. There can be NO leaks. While a leak can cause hard hot restart problems it should not cause a hard cold start problem. Recheck that you have the lines correctly connected and routed.

The manual shows different torque specs for different fuel line bolts (M8, M10, etc.), but the bolts themselves are all just labeled as "hollow bolt" in the parts manual. How do I know which ones are M10's, for example?

[Ron]

The "M" is for "Metric". The number following gives the diameter of the threads in millimeters.
E.G., A M10 will have a Thread Diameter of 10mm.

[DMC-81]

The "M" is for "Metric". The number following gives the diameter of the threads in millimeters.
E.G., A M10 will have a Thread Diameter of 10mm.

+1 . Also, for future use, to help figure this out quickly, there is a simple plastic tool available at your local hardware store. I picked up this one from Home Depot several years ago:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/8-11-16-in-Armour-Technologies-Gauge-TEM-GHO-02/100186831

This is a tool that that gets a LOT of use. Definitely worth the $2

[Stainless]

+1 . Also, for future use, to help figure this out quickly, there is a simple plastic tool available at your local hardware store. I picked up this one from Home Depot several years ago:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/8-11-16-in-Armour-Technologies-Gauge-TEM-GHO-02/100186831

This is a tool that that gets a LOT of use. Definitely worth the $2

I picked one of these up the other day. This is perfect. Thanks!

[hippieman9]

Ok Looks like i am having the same issue now too. I replaced all my fuel lines from the filter back, a new filter and elbow from DPI and Daves RPM relay. I had to crank the car a lot to get it to start the first time after the replacement, That didn't surprise me as I figured it would need to prime and purge the lines and get the air out. It would then fire right up after running for a while with no issues. I then had to rebuild the brakes and it sat for a week or 2 till the evening when I went to take it for a test drive and I had to crank it a few times before it would start.
When I had the original lines on the car it always started right up no issue. I am going to check the items you have all mentioned in this thread. My one question is how does the mixture effect the way it starts with new fuel lines? Why would the new fuel lines require a different mixture?

Thanks!

[Ron]

My one question is how does the mixture effect the way it starts with new fuel lines? Why would the new fuel lines require a different mixture?

Thanks!IF the original and new lines had no leaks or restrictions, there would be no change in the mixture (nor in anything else concerning starting/running).
Since it ran well before, I'd suggest checking that your injectors/boots are tight and sealing properly, vacuum lines are still intact, and that the cold start valve is actually spraying. Then, if no luck, report back in a new thread with your findings...

[lazabby]

Similar thing happened to me. Replaced fuel line, injectors and CO2 plug and the car ran worse than before. Anyway, about a month ago I was having an issue with a hard start when the car was both cold or hot. I feared it might be the accumulator. It turned out to be the "plunger bolt" or fuel pressure regulator that is in the fuel distributor. It has two o-ring on it. When I took it out, one of the o-rings was flattened and the other one had started to break apart. I replaced both and the car now starts immediately. If you have a hard start issue, be sure to check that out.

https://www.deloreanautoparts.com/delorean-parts/images/Prim-press-regulator-1.jpg