Front Panel Doesn't Quite Fit Right

[spikeygg]

So, one thing that has been bothering me is how my HVAC panel looks. It wasn't lined up properly or something and the knobs were falling off, to make matters worse someone previously replaced the rheostat dimmer control with one that is WAY too tall so that looks bad as well. I want to remedy it so I'm tackling the console.

Now that I've got the console apart, I realized that the little screw that holds the HVAC plate to the backboard was missing. I found that I can push the plate backward and it looks much better. However, I've tried to dry-fit the "front panel" under the HVAC panel but it forces the HVAC panel up and away from the backing plate, this is why the people who were in here last left it crappy.

How is this stuff supposed to fit together? It doesn't seem to fit together correctly in my DeLorean... Any pointers? I think ideally a video showing how this is supposed to go together would be most helpful but I've scoured youtube without success.

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[Rich]

There's some info on this topic in this thread: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?10200

The single screw that holds the A/C control fascia in place is a weak spot. Grady and DMCH both have them. A replacement that's too long is bad for the mode switch behind it. That little screw cannot make up for a poor fit or broken pins on the back of that A/C fascia.

Get familiar with the parts and take your time - it's pretty simple. Not aware of any teardown videos for that area.

[content22207_2]

First & foremost, as Jim Prentice explained at DCS'04, our consoles are essentially mass production prototypes. DMC ran out of money and time. I suspect the original vision was plastic construction like the lower door panels (early) and B pillar trim. Don't feel bad if you need to fiddle with your console to get everything to line up correctly -- pretty much every owner does (especially given the console's flimsy cardboard construction).

The console depends upon two pop riveted brackets on either side for vertical clearance in the front (the pieces that fit over the underbody studs). If those brackets aren't pop riveted correctly, the console will never fit right. Likewise if the cardboard loses its integrity, allowing the pop rivets to sag or even pull out altogether (that's what happened to mine). If you need to re-pop rivet the brackets you can use large diameter head rivets and backing washers for a tighter fit.

Even with a correctly fitting console, my A/C panel has very tight fit between the shifter plate and the radio bracket. I have best success pulling the radio out of its cage and pulling headlight and hazard flasher buttons off before inserting the A/C panel. I start at the bottom and angle in so I can press the shifter plate down slightly before I snap the top of the panel into place under the radio cage.

Be very careful with the retaining screw. Too long and it will pierce the mode switch diaphragm. Houston only wants 50 cents for a proper length screw -- just add one to your next order.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[DMC-81]

Hi there,

It seems that the leading edge of your front panel is bent, especially in the middle, and not straight across. I think that is why it's pushing up and out on your AC panel.

Here is the part picture for comparison:

https://store.delorean.com/p-9833-front-panel-w-clock-hole.aspx

[spikeygg]

There's some info on this topic in this thread: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?10200

The single screw that holds the A/C control fascia in place is a weak spot. Grady and DMCH both have them. A replacement that's too long is bad for the mode switch behind it. That little screw cannot make up for a poor fit or broken pins on the back of that A/C fascia.

Get familiar with the parts and take your time - it's pretty simple. Not aware of any teardown videos for that area.

Wow Rich, thanks for the thread link. I gotta do what bigmac did with the brass pins. Two of my pins (top ones) are busted off.

I found this video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FdQ34mO6Be8) and it's very helpful but he is taking the center console apart and doesn't show the reassembly.


First & foremost, as Jim Prentice explained at DCS'04, our consoles are essentially mass production prototypes. DMC ran out of money and time. I suspect the original vision was plastic construction like the lower door panels (early) and B pillar trim. Don't feel bad if you need to fiddle with your console to get everything to line up correctly -- pretty much every owner does (especially given the console's flimsy cardboard construction).

The console depends upon two pop riveted brackets on either side for vertical clearance in the front (the pieces that fit over the underbody studs). If those brackets aren't pop riveted correctly, the console will never fit right. Likewise if the cardboard loses its integrity, allowing the pop rivets to sag or even pull out altogether (that's what happened to mine). If you need to re-pop rivet the brackets you can use large diameter head rivets and backing washers for a tighter fit.

Even with a correctly fitting console, my A/C panel has very tight fit between the shifter plate and the radio bracket. I have best success pulling the radio out of its cage and pulling headlight and hazard flasher buttons off before inserting the A/C panel. I start at the bottom and angle in so I can press the shifter plate down slightly before I snap the top of the panel into place under the radio cage.

Be very careful with the retaining screw. Too long and it will pierce the mode switch diaphragm. Houston only wants 50 cents for a proper length screw -- just add one to your next order.

Bill Robertson
#5939

Very helpful and descriptive Bill, thank you. I plan to buy one of those screws from DMC on my next order but I'm figuring that someone stripped it out previously so I'll have to figure out a way to make it bite again.


Hi there,

It seems that the leading edge of your front panel is bent, especially in the middle, and not straight across. I think that is why it's pushing up and out on your AC panel.

Here is the part picture for comparison:

https://store.delorean.com/p-9833-front-panel-w-clock-hole.aspx

Thanks DMC-81, I saw that too which is why I wanted to get a picture of the profile of the edge. My concern is that it's bent too much. I also found that picture from DMC but it's a top-down photo so you can't really see how much the lip is bent upward. I'm pretty sure I need to re-bend the edge so it's correct but I have no reference. :(

[dn010]

Are they supposed to be flat? Mine has a bend in it too...

[Michael]

A little tip that can make up for poor fitment. Place some very soft adhesive sponge strips (avaliable at most hardware chain stores) around the perimeter on the hvac panel. You may have to slice the thickness down a little depending on the gap. This will prevent light leaks at night.
I have to fiddle with mine every time I take it out to get it to seat properly and every time I still have no idea what I do but after 2 or 3 times it just goes together right.

Be sure not to over tighten the screw on the panel as it will crack the light channels and prevent illumination from reaching past the crack.

[DMC-81]

Are they supposed to be flat? Mine has a bend in it too...

Hi there,

There is a crease/ bump in the metal, but the panel should be flat horizontally. If it will help, here are some pictures of mine as an example...

44820

44821

44822

You should be able to remove the front panel from the rear (by tilting it forward and pulling it back) without having it interfere with the AC panel. I removed mine just now without removing the AC panel.
As far as fit goes...The most forward edge ( beyond the crease) is behind the AC panel, which sits on the area after the crease without undue pressure between the two panels.

Cheers,

[spikeygg]

The most forward edge ( beyond the crease) is behind the AC panel, which sits on the area after the crease without undue pressure between the two panels.

Thanks DMC-81, this is a helpful post. If I understand what you are saying the AC panel should rest in the crease of the black bottom panel. I'll have to see if I can straighten the edge out, it does look wavy. Any suggestions on how to do that exactly?? I think banging it with a hammer is probably a bad idea... :umm:

[content22207_2]

The A/C panel doesn't sit on your wavy edge -- it sits on the ledge in front of it, which looks straight enough in your opening pictures. If in doubt put a straight edge across that ledge. You can rest the shifter plate on a hard surface and use the straight edge to straighten the ledge if necessary.

How well do the shifter plate pins sit in your hold down brackets? They've got to seat fully in the brackets. My own plate has a tendency to jump back out. As stated, I need to press the shifter plate down slightly with the A/C panel as I seat the panel under the radio (I install my A/C panel at an angle, bottom edge first, rather than straight on). Most likely caused by my repaired hold down brackets being slightly off, but at least now I *HAVE* hold down brackets -- from the PO they were ripped loose (pop rivets pulled through the cardboard).

Bill Robertson
#5939

[DMC-81]

Thanks DMC-81, this is a helpful post. If I understand what you are saying the AC panel should rest in the crease of the black bottom panel. I'll have to see if I can straighten the edge out, it does look wavy. Any suggestions on how to do that exactly?? I think banging it with a hammer is probably a bad idea... :umm:

Not in the crease, but on the area after it (or to the rear). Actually it kind of rests against it, rather than sitting on it. Like so...

44825

44826

Sorry. It's hard to describe. Hopefully this helps.

As for straightening it. Correct, you wouldn't want to use a hammer. As the panel is covered on plastic/ vinyl, I would typically use a vice with thin strips of wood or flat stock metal to protect the item you're working on from the vice's jaws.

44827

[content22207_2]

Just pulled my A/C panel off to take some pics. While it was off I measured the hold down screw:

44828

My screw has .109" OD threads. Don't know if it's OEM or a #4 replacement (.112" OD threads by spec). Irrespective, a #4 sheet metal screw, 1" long, appears to be a suitable xRef.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[dn010]

Thank you Dana, looks like I'll need to do a bit of adjusting to mine too.


Hi there,

There is a crease/ bump in the metal, but the panel should be flat horizontally. If it will help, here are some pictures of mine as an example...

44820

44821

44822

You should be able to remove the front panel from the rear (by tilting it forward and pulling it back) without having it interfere with the AC panel. I removed mine just now without removing the AC panel.
As far as fit goes...The most forward edge ( beyond the crease) is behind the AC panel, which sits on the area after the crease without undue pressure between the two panels.

Cheers,

[spikeygg]

The A/C panel doesn't sit on your wavy edge -- it sits on the ledge in front of it, which looks straight enough in your opening pictures. If in doubt put a straight edge across that ledge. You can rest the shifter plate on a hard surface and use the straight edge to straighten the ledge if necessary.

How well do the shifter plate pins sit in your hold down brackets? They've got to seat fully in the brackets. My own plate has a tendency to jump back out. As stated, I need to press the shifter plate down slightly with the A/C panel as I seat the panel under the radio (I install my A/C panel at an angle, bottom edge first, rather than straight on). Most likely caused by my repaired hold down brackets being slightly off, but at least now I *HAVE* hold down brackets -- from the PO they were ripped loose (pop rivets pulled through the cardboard).

Bill Robertson
#5939

Bill, could you take a picture of the "hold down brackets" you're talking about? I'm trying to understand what you're saying but I'm not sure where those are... I just spent about 20 minutes playing with the two panels and I can't seem to find a way to make them both play nicely together like Dana describes. When I slip the shifter plate under the A/C panel it wants to pop the A/C panel out of the guide pin holes. I was missing my top two plastic guides so tonight I went to a metal working friend and he helped me replace the two guide pins with metal ones. :)

Still though, I can't get the A/C panel to stay planted while trying to install the shifter plate under it. When I slip the shifter plate under the A/C panel, the other end of the shifter plate wants to be up in the air. If I then press down on the back end it forces the A/C panel away from the mounting surface. Keep in mind that I'm trying to do this gently (as Dana described) and without the A/C panel screw (since I need to order it or find a suitable replacement).


Not in the crease, but on the area after it (or to the rear). Actually it kind of rests against it, rather than sitting on it. Like so...

Sorry. It's hard to describe. Hopefully this helps.

As for straightening it. Correct, you wouldn't want to use a hammer. As the panel is covered on plastic/ vinyl, I would typically use a vice with thin strips of wood or flat stock metal to protect the item you're working on from the vice's jaws.



Dana, the photos help immensely! Though, I wonder if you can get it all to install properly without the A/C panel screw holding the panel to the mounting surface? From you description it sounded like there was no undue pressure on either panel after installation so it seems like the screw isn't totally necessary, except to keep the A/C panel from rattling or something. But maybe it aides in installation...? :)

Thank you!
-Greg

[content22207_2]

Bill, could you take a picture of the "hold down brackets" you're talking about?

44879

They are double duty brackets. Long upper portion supports the shifter plate. Lower tab holds the console to the body stud. Brackets are just pop riveted to the cardboard, so they can pull out and end up loose.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Bitsyncmaster]

Still though, I can't get the A/C panel to stay planted while trying to install the shifter plate under it. When I slip the shifter plate under the A/C panel, the other end of the shifter plate wants to be up in the air. If I then press down on the back end it forces the A/C panel away from the mounting surface. Keep in mind that I'm trying to do this gently (as Dana described) and without the A/C panel screw (since I need to order it or find a suitable replacement).


Your AC panel must have broken standoffs. Each of the four standoffs on each corner should have a "pin" (it's plastic so can break) that fits in a hole in the metal plate.

The first photo is my home made faceplate. Second photo is the OEM faceplate.

[spikeygg]

Your AC panel must have broken standoffs. Each of the four standoffs on each corner should have a "pin" (it's plastic so can break) that fits in a hole in the metal plate.

The first photo is my home made faceplate. Second photo is the OEM faceplate.

Dave, I was missing the top two pins but a friend of mine who works with metal helped me replace those. I took a photo of the A/C panel butted up against the mounting surface:

44882

It doesn't seem to help because there is so little room at the bottom of the A/C panel when the pins are fully engaged onto the mounting surface.

[spikeygg]

Be very careful with the retaining screw. Too long and it will pierce the mode switch diaphragm. Houston only wants 50 cents for a proper length screw -- just add one to your next order.

I got one of these screws from DMC and it was 1/2" long. I tried to install it through the hole in my AC panel and it was not long enough to even touch the mounting plate behind the ac panel. I went to D&B Supply and found a similar 3/4" long screw and a 1" long one, they have the same thread pattern but are silver instead of black. I brought them home and found that the 3/4" one started to thread but was not deep enough to really hold. I tried the 1" one and it was perfect.

The problem is that after attaching the AC panel using the screw it is flush with the backing plate, but when I install the console cover there is a large gap between where the cover stops and where the AC panel starts. I think this is due to the shape of the mounting plate but I'm not sure how to fix it. :(

45448

I can actually fully engage the black clock plate's posts into their holes and the screw holes line up without the front of the clock plate touching the AC panel. See here:

45449

You can see the gap between the AC panel and the console cover a little in the picture, it's in the shadow and, unfortunately, I didn't take a picture of this gap before disassembling the console again...

Edit: actually the original picture I posted shows this gap pretty well:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=44817&d=1469409070

[Bitsyncmaster]

I'm guessing the end of your shifter plate is bent up to high and that shortened it a little. You don't really want to put to much lifting force on the plastic AC panel anyway. I attached a photo of mine plate fitting. I have some black foam around my plastic AC plate if you see that in the photo.

[spikeygg]

I believe this is the problem but I don't know how to fix it. The metal box that holds the AC controls and stereo is too deep within the console. With all the nuts holding down the console cover and the metal box there is a significant gap all the way around my metal box.

I have attached the box to the top:
45604 45605

I have the console cover anchored down at all six 10mm nut points:
45609 45610

There is a very large gap between the metal box and the console cover. I believe this is why the AC panel and black metal clock tray don't fit together.
45606 45607 45608

I am convinced that if the box was further toward the rear of the vehicle so that the AC panel was also further toward the rear of the vehicle by about 3/4 of an inch, the black clock plate would fit.

Anyone have ideas of how I can fix this? Do I need a new metal box (http://store.delorean.com/p-7793-face-plate-din-radio.aspx)?

[Bitsyncmaster]

I just looked at the fit of mine. The side cover just sits flush with the front of the AC panel but the above the AC panel there is a gap but you don't really see it because the metal is black like the side cover.

[spikeygg]

I just looked at the fit of mine. The side cover just sits flush with the front of the AC panel but the above the AC panel there is a gap but you don't really see it because the metal is black like the side cover.

Thanks David, do you have a gap between the base of the metal box and the mounting rails of the console cover? It almost looks like these are designed to fit together much closer...

45614

Any ideas?

[DMC-81]

Hi there,

I took this picture for another thread, but in it, you can see the gap in the two components on my car...

45615

[GS450-Junkie]

I'm wondering if these fitment issues have an effect on the mode switch performance. I recently rebuilt my mode switch and it turns perfectly in my hand, but once installed it is very difficult to turn. It appears a lot of owners have a similar problem. Of the three knobs on the AC panel, the temperature knob and fan speed knob turn easily but also stick out about 1/4-3/8" from the front of the AC panel. The mode switch knob on my car sits almost flush on the face of the AC panel, and it becomes very stiff when turning. I was wishing that the metal shaft that the knob sits on was a bit longer, but maybe there is some sort of adjustment on the radio bracket or AC panel a guy could make to make that mode switch work better....

I've ordered the correct screws, but I don't think that is the culprit.