Cracked Engine Mount

[Mattglas]

I picked up my engine today after being given the run around by a machine shop for three months and discovered this:
4514745148
Should I get it welded?

[krs09]

If the engine is not in the car I would just replace both mounts and be done with it. The rubber cant be in great shape and I dont think they are super expensive.

[FABombjoy]

If the engine is not in the car I would just replace both mounts and be done with it. The rubber cant be in great shape and I dont think they are super expensive.
Pictures show the lower crankcase mounting ears. But I do agree on the rubber frame mounts, unless new I'd change them now as well.

I would have it welded and be done with it. It will never be easier or cheaper! It sucks now but imagine trying to have it done after the engine is installed.

[dn010]

If the engine is not in the car I would just replace both mounts and be done with it. The rubber cant be in great shape and I dont think they are super expensive.

Or if you don't weld it you risk the crack growing larger/traveling further. There used to be a lower crankcase on eBay with one side mount cracked off. Don't end up like that guy!

[Josh]

welding isnt necessarily the answer. Even a very skilled welder will have trouble welding 35 year old cast aluminum that has been soaking in oil for many years.

I would replace the lower crankcase. Big job but you dont want those mounting ears failing.

[content22207_2]

Where are you located? I know an aluminum welder in the DC area who did some test welding on an old PRV engine head (B27 -- even older than a DeLorean) no problem.

He uses a pretty strong acid flux to clean the aluminum first.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Mattglas]

My bad I thought the mounting ears were called engine mounts. I actually do have new rubber engine mounts as well, thats the job I was doing before I noticed the crack. I'm located in North Carolina, so a pretty long drive to the DC area.

[krs09]

Pictures show the lower crankcase mounting ears. But I do agree on the rubber frame mounts, unless new I'd change them now as well.

I would have it welded and be done with it. It will never be easier or cheaper! It sucks now but imagine trying to have it done after the engine is installed.

Wow, that is my bad.

[Drive Stainless]

Where are you located?

[FABombjoy]

welding isnt necessarily the answer. Even a very skilled welder will have trouble welding 35 year old cast aluminum that has been soaking in oil for many years.
If ever there was a time to get some references and pick the best place for the job it's now. Maybe scout a place that frequently does higher-end work, like aircraft or oil/gas industry?

I have a place near me that I would trust and they're only $50/hr. It may not actually be all that expensive said and done, even for competent work.


Wow, that is my bad.
Nah, those rubber mounts are go bad frequently (I'm about to change my own) so that was a natural conclusion to jump to :)

[content22207_2]

I live in North Carolina and drive to DC on a regular basis (off season). Anywhere between I-85 and the coast would be workable if you wanted me to pick up your engine and carry it up there, willingness of the aluminum welder depending.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[dn010]

If ever there was a time to get some references and pick the best place for the job it's now. Maybe scout a place that frequently does higher-end work, like aircraft or oil/gas industry?

Or someone who repairs boats/marine. I had a few nasty looking aluminum outdrives welded in the past and have had no problems with the repair.

[Josh]

you would have to remove it anyway to get it welded, so why not just get it replaced. I bet those studs are seized in as well. I had to have mine drilled out. Another job that is much more difficult while the part is installed.

[content22207_2]

you would have to remove it anyway to get it welded, so why not just get it replaced.

Because replacing the lower engine casting is a lot more involved than most people realize?

(Lower engine casting holds the crankshaft bearings. And it has to be 100% flush with the main casting or the timing chain cover will leak -- harder than it sounds when your torqing down the bolts. You've also got to have some way of turning the engine upside down -- can't do it with the engine suspended on a hoist).

Bill Robertson
#5939

[dn010]

It's also (was) thousand of dollars to replace through DMCH which now has it as "out of stock". Removing the stud now would likely result in more damage.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[content22207_2]

Lower engine casting is a DeLorean specific part. You could bolt up a Peugeot, Renault, or Volvo engine casting, but the motor mounts would be in the wrong place (and of course they are shaped for totally different crossmembers). Volvo motor mounts are a totally different design too (no bosses -- motor mounts bolt on).

Bill Robertson
#5939