Plating calipers

[Lenny]

I need to rebuild my calipers. After pulling them I'm thinking of getting the plated. I have two questions, maybe three.

1. Where can i get them plated?
2. What do I tell them about material/color etc.?
3. Cost?

[Mark D]

I got a bunch of stuff re-plated through DMCMW. They have a local plating vendor they use and can get your parts added into a small batch/run to make the price more economical.

You need to specify zinc plating with yellow chromate conversion coating. Usually just referred to as "yellow zinc". For the bolts that hold the two halves of the calipers together you may want to consider a clear chromate aka "clear zinc" since it builds up less on the threads.

I had the following parts plated for around $180.00: brake calipers, hubs, coolant pipe brackets, radiator brackets, exhaust brackets, fuel filler neck, and just about any other part I could remove from the chassis that was originally plated. Also basically every nut and bolt off the chassis was plated in clear zinc.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=40743&d=1457714987

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=40744&d=1457714988

[Lenny]

Wow that looks good!!!

[Lwanmtr]

That plating come in plaid?

[DMC-81]

Hi Lenny,

Like Mark, I had some plating done. Actually, his work inspired me.

Mine was done locally at Seminole Metal Finishing in Altamonte Springs FL. Their prices have a minimum per finish ( Clear Zinc and Yellow Zinc as Mark said), which I believe is $75. You can email them pictures and get a quote. They will ask you if you want masking in the piston cups ( extra charge). I opted to do that as I didn't know if the thickness of the plating would interfere with tolerances, plus, they weren't plated originally. If you need sandblasting that's extra as well. Also, it's normally a 3 week turnaround time.

They did a good job. Here's a few pics:

Rear caliper:
Before plating:
45154
Parts plated:
45155
Re-assembled:
45156

Front calipers:
Before plating:
45157
Parts plated:
45158
Re-assembled:
45159

I used DMC pads and brake hardware, and opted for stainless steel pistons after struggling to remove 2 out of 4 due to pitting.

Perhaps there is a local plater closer to you if you choose not to go with them or DMCMW.

Cheers,

[Lenny]

Where did you get the stainless pistons? I bought all the components at DCS in Springfield.

[Lwanmtr]

DMC has them I beleive, I could be mistaken. Was just on the phone with Toby at DMCNW today talking about brakes..couldnt recall if he said the new pistons they have are stainless.

[David T]

DMC has them I beleive, I could be mistaken. Was just on the phone with Toby at DMCNW today talking about brakes..couldnt recall if he said the new pistons they have are stainless.

Because of minimum quantities and shipping it is probably cheaper to just get a set done exchange from one of the Delorean vendors. That way the car isn't out of service for long while you are waiting for your parts to get done. Just send your old ones back so you don't get hit with the core charge.

[DMC-81]

Where did you get the stainless pistons? I bought all the components at DCS in Springfield.

I had to get the front pistons from Special-T and the rear ones from DPI. It's been a couple years, so perhaps one of the Delorean vendors has them both now.

[Mark D]

Hi Lenny,

Like Mark, I had some plating done. Actually, his work inspired me.

Mine was done locally at Seminole Metal Finishing in Altamonte Springs FL .

.
.
.

Cheers,

Awesome work! I was inspired to go the plating route from Travis at NoRoadsGarage. If you've never seen his website it's fantastic. Here's a link to the page where his parts came back back from plating.

http://www.noroads.com/delorean/3281/?content=20071010

I first discovered that site about 10 years ago and knew zinc plating would be the way to go.

[DMC5180]

[QUOTE=DMC-81;202956


I used DMC pads and brake hardware, and opted for stainless steel pistons after struggling to remove 2 out of 4 due to pitting.



Cheers,[/QUOTE]

Dana,

Am I seeing New Anti-squeal shims or were those your originals re-plated? I was under the impression the Anti-squeal shims were NLA from DMCH.

[DMC-81]

Dana,

Am I seeing New Anti-squeal shims or were those your originals re-plated? I was under the impression the Anti-squeal shims were NLA from DMCH.

Hi Dennis,

That is a new front brake hardware kit from DMCH. Part 119005.

http://store.delorean.com/p-7419-brake-hardware-kit-fr.aspx

The website says that they are still in stock.

[DMC5180]

Thanks, that's good to know.

Driving the Delorean on vacation my front brakes really got annoying at times. I don't have those shims.


Dennis

[DMC-81]

Thanks, that's good to know.

Driving the Delorean on vacation my front brakes really got annoying at times. I don't have those shims.


Dennis

Your welcome! I haven't heard a noise so far with them. :thumbup:



Awesome work! I was inspired to go the plating route from Travis at NoRoadsGarage. If you've never seen his website it's fantastic. Here's a link to the page where his parts came back back from plating.

http://www.noroads.com/delorean/3281/?content=20071010

I first discovered that site about 10 years ago and knew zinc plating would be the way to go.

Thanks Mark! Yours as well! :fancy:

[Lenny]

Ok stupid questions.

1. When haveing them replated did they cover the piston cavity or did you do that?

2. Did you remove the bleed nipples when you took them in?

3. Are there different types of "Zinc" plating

[DMCMW Dave]

Ok stupid questions.

1. When haveing them replated did they cover the piston cavity or did you do that?

2. Did you remove the bleed nipples when you took them in?

3. Are there different types of "Zinc" plating

1 - no need to

2 - you should remove them but send them in with all the hardware. Bolts, small lines, etc.

3 - you have a choice of "clear" (aka silver) or "yellow" (aka light gold).

[Mark D]

Ok stupid questions.

1. When having them replated did they cover the piston cavity or did you do that?

2. Did you remove the bleed nipples when you took them in?

3. Are there different types of "Zinc" plating


All great answers from Dave, but just to expand a little on each:

1. No need as Dave said. The reason is that the cylinder inside the caliper isn't a sealing surface. The rubber seal that fits inside the cylinder bore is the only thing that actually contacts the piston to prevent brake fluid from leaking out. The piston surface is really what is critical in maintaining a leak free seal so if your old pistons have any pitting on the areas that would contact the inner seal then it's time to replace the pistons. Rust or pitting where the dust cover fits over the piston is not a deal breaker.

2. I removed mine and just replaced them with new ones. The bleed nipples are cheap and it's hard to remove rust from inside so replacing may be better route depending on the condition of your old ones.

3. Yellow and clear zinc both start with identical silver colored zinc plating over the bare metal part. "Clear zinc" refers to a clear dichromate conversion coating that prevents the thin zinc plating layer from oxidation and extends the life of the plating. Yellow zinc is also a dichromate conversion coating that protects the plating on the part. In the past yellow meant a better corrosion protection than clear zinc, whereas modern hexavalent chromium free conversion coatings are dyed yellow and don't really give any better protection if applied at the same thickness as the clear coating. That being said, most modern plating shops will use a slightly thicker amount of coating when doing yellow to give better corrosion resistance. In some cases a thicker layer is better (like on calipers) but when it comes to threaded fasteners like nuts and bolts the additional coating thickness can build up on the threads and make reassembly slightly more difficult.

I the past there were hexavalent chromium based conversion coatings that the color actually reflected the level of corrosion protection. The chromate would range in color from clear-->yellow-->green-->black as a thicker layer of chromate built up on the part. Today thanks to the EPA almost everything is hex chrome free and the new formulations are all clear. Dyes are added to match the look of the old style coatings and coating thickness plays a greater role in corrosion protection. The different colors still loosely match the level of protection but yellow doesn't necessarily mean better than clear like it used to.


Finally, I've got a bunch of photos from when I was rebuilding my calipers in an album here: http://dmctalk.org/album.php?albumid=97
My parts were sent to DMCMW for plating, and they subcontract the work out to a local vendor who does the actual plating for them. Each piece was individually bubble wrapped upon return and the price was excellent considering the amount of handling involved to keep track of all the parts I sent. I'd recommend going with DMCMW for plating since they'll send your parts in as part of a larger batch and you wont' necessarily have to do a special run of your own parts and pay the full minimum run charge that other shops might charge you.

[dhaney]

If it hasn't been said get it done locally I had all this done $80.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170117/fa7987ec2492edf53f66527374d9927c.jpg

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[Lwanmtr]

Hehe...some assembly required....

[dhaney]

So? It's not hard, in fact Delorean Motor company has a video on their site that's a how to its very well done. Though I take issue with one part that should be replaced that they reuse and don't even offer for sale. You can get it from Specialtauto though. Watch it and see if you can spot it. Doing it yourself is much cheaper and worth the price of admission.

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[Lenny]

So? It's not hard, in fact Delorean Motor company has a video on their site that's a how to its very well done. Though I take issue with one part that should be replaced that they reuse and don't even offer for sale. You can get it from Specialtauto though. Watch it and see if you can spot it. Doing it yourself is much cheaper and worth the price of admission.

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I'll bite what did they reuse?

[dhaney]

The rubber o-ring that keeps the front calipers from leaking when you put them back together. As stated in the video the front calipers have a passage milled into them that allows the fluid to pass from one side to the other and push the piston. The rears use a fluid line and don't have that passage.

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